tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-50893911352992064102024-02-08T11:29:43.045-08:00Gardeninggandhihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15342771507991122518noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5089391135299206410.post-18188041421258935852008-02-23T01:03:00.000-08:002008-02-23T04:16:11.362-08:00Technology in GardeningSHORT-TERM REFRIGERATOR STORAGE<br />Most vegetables keep best for a short time when<br />stored in the refrigerator, at a high humidity and a<br />constant temperature, just above freezing. A<br />temperature of about 40°F and a humidity of 95<br />percent are ideal for storing fresh vegetables, and<br />these conditions are most likely to be found in the<br />crisper or hydrator sections of the refrigerator. For<br />the best results, the crisper should be at least two-<br />thirds full; if it's empty or almost empty, vegetables<br />placed in it will dry out.<br />To keep vegetables moist and fresh, follow these<br />simple rules of refrigerator storage:<br />•Store vegetables in the crisper or hydrator, and<br />keep the crisper full.<br />•When storing only a few vegetables, put them<br />into airtight plastic bags or plastic containers,<br />then into the crisper.<br />•When storing vegetables in other parts of the<br />refrigerator, put them into airtight plastic bags or<br />plastic containers to prevent moisture loss.<br />Almost all vegetables store well in the<br />refrigerator, but there are a few that don't. Mature<br />onions, peanuts (dried), potatoes, sweet potatoes,<br />pumpkins, winter squash, and such root vegetables as<br />rutabagas, salsify, and turnips keep better in cold<br />storage outside the refrigerator, in a basement storage<br />room or root cellar. This type of storage is discussed<br />in the next section. Most other vegetables, regardless<br />of whether they can be kept in cold storage, keep<br />very well for a short time in the refrigerator.<br />Preparing vegetables for refrigerator storage<br />Refrigerator storage is the simplest type of storage<br />to prepare for — all you have to do is sort the<br />vegetables, remove damaged or soft ones for<br />immediate use or discard, and remove as much<br />garden soil as you can. Some vegetables should be<br />washed before they're stored; others keep better<br />when they're not washe^d until you're ready to use<br />them. The directions below tell you how to prepare<br />each type of vegetable for refrigerator storage. For<br />the best results, discard damaged vegetables or use<br />them immediately; perfect vegetables keep best.<br />Artichokes<br />Do not wash until ready to use. Store in plastic bag<br />up to 2 weeks.<br />Asparagus<br />Do not wash until ready to use. Slice off bottoms of<br />stalks and stand upright in 1 to 2 inches of water. Store<br />up to 1 week.<br />Beans, green or snap<br />Do not wash until ready to use. Store in plastic bag<br />up to 1 week.<br />Beans, broad, dry, lima, or mung<br />Do not shell or wash until ready to use. Store in<br />plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Beets<br />Cut off tops, leaving about 1 inch of stem. Do not<br />wash roots until ready to use. Store in plastic bag for 1<br />to 3 weeks. Wash greens thoroughly in cold water;<br />drain well and store in plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Broccoli<br />Do not wash until ready to use. Remove any<br />damaged leaves. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Brussels sprouts<br />Do not wash until ready to use. Remove any<br />damaged leaves. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Cabbage<br />Do not wash until ready to use. Remove any<br />damaged leaves. Store in plastic bag for 1 to 2 weeks.<br />Cardoon<br />Trim roots and cut off leaves. Wash thoroughly in<br />cold water; drain well. Store stalks attached to root in<br />plastic bag for 1 to 2 weeks.<br />Carrots<br />Cut off tops. Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain<br />well. Store in plastic bag for 1 to 3 weeks.<br />Cauliflower<br />Do not wash until ready to use. Remove any<br />damaged leaves. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Celeriac<br />Cut off leaves and root fibers. Do not wash until<br />ready to use. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Celery<br />Trim roots and wash thoroughly in cold water;<br />drain well. Cut off leaves and store in plastic bag for 3<br />to 5 days. Store stalks attached at root in plastic bag<br />for i to 2 weeks.<br />Chard<br />Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Trim any<br />bad spots on leaves and cut off tough stalks. Store in<br />plastic bag for 1 to 2 weeks.<br />Chayote<br />Do not wash until ready to use. Store in plastic bag<br />up to 1 week.<br />Chick peas<br />Do not shell or wash until ready to use. Store in<br />plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Chicory<br />Do not wash until ready to use. Store in plastic bag<br />up to 1 week.<br />Chinese cabbage<br />Trim roots and wash thoroughly in cold waters-<br />drain well. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Collards<br />Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Remove<br />any damaged leaves. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Corn<br />Do not husk or wash; store in plastic bag for 4 to 8<br />days. For best flavor, do not store; use immediately.<br />Cress, garden<br />Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Store in<br />plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Cucumbers<br />Wash thoroughly in cold water and pat dry. Do not<br />cut until ready to use. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Dandelion<br />Cut off roots and remove any damaged leaves.<br />Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Store in<br />plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Eggplant<br />Store eggplant at about 50°F, up to 1 week. Do not<br />refrigerate.<br />Endive<br />Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Remove<br />any damaged leaves. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Fennel<br />Do not separate stalks or wash until ready to use.<br />Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Horseradish<br />Cut off leaves and trim root; wash thoroughly in<br />cold water and pat dry. Mix with vinegar and water<br />according to recipe in "How to Freeze Vegetables."<br />Store in airtight glass jar in refrigerator fori to2weeks.<br />For stronger flavor, grate as soon as possible after<br />picking; store in airtight glass jar.<br />Jerusalem artichokes<br />Wash tubers thoroughly in cold water and pat dry.<br />Store in plastic bag for 7 to 10 days.<br />Kale<br />Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Remove<br />any damaged leaves. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Kohlrabi<br />Cut off leaves and trim root; wash thoroughly in<br />cold water and pat dry. Store in plastic bag up to 1<br />week.<br />Leeks<br />Cut off roots and all but 2 inches of leaves. Do not<br />wash until ready to use. Store in plastic bag up to 1<br />week. Wash very thoroughly in cold water before<br />using.<br />Lentils<br />Do not shell or wash until ready to use. Store in<br />plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Lettuce<br />Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Store in<br />plastic bag up to 2 weeks.<br />Mushrooms<br />Do not wash until ready to use. Store in open plastic<br />bag or spread on a tray and cover with damp paper<br />towels. Store up to 1 week. Wash quickly in cold<br />water before using; pat dry.<br />Muskmelon<br />Do not wash. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week;<br />cover cut surfaces with plastic wrap.<br />Mustard<br />Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Remove<br />any damaged leaves. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Okra<br />Do not wash until ready to use. Store in plastic bag<br />for 7 to 10 days.<br />Onions^ green<br />Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Store in<br />plastic bag up to 1 week. Do not refrigerate mature<br />onions.<br />Parsnips<br />Cut off tops, leaving about 1 inch of stem. Do not<br />wash until ready to use. Store in plastic bag for 1 to 3<br />weeks.<br />Peas, black-eyed<br />Do not shell or wash until ready to use. Store in<br />plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Peas, shelling<br />Do not shell or wash until ready to use. Store in<br />plastic bag up to 1 week. For best flavor, do not store;<br />use immediately.<br />Peppers<br />Do not wash until ready to use. Store in plastic bag<br />up to 1 week.<br />Radishes<br />Cut off tops. Do not wash until ready to use. Store in<br />plastic bag 1 to 2 weeks.<br />Rhubarb<br />Cut off leaves. Wash stalks thoroughly in cold<br />water; drain well. Store in plastic bag up to 2 weeks.<br />Salsify<br />Cut off tops, leaving about 1 inch of stem. Do not<br />wash roots until ready to use. Store in plastic bag for 1<br />to 3 weeks.<br />Shallots<br />Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Store in<br />plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Sorrel<br />Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Remove<br />any damaged leaves. Store leaves or stalks in plastic<br />bag for i to 2 weeks.<br />Soybeans<br />Do not shell or wash until ready to use. Store in<br />plastic bag up to 1 week.<br />Spinach, New Zealand spinach<br />Trim roots and tough stalks. Wash very thoroughly<br />in cold water; drain well. Store in plastic bag up to 1<br />week.<br />Sprouts (sprouted vegetable seed, any type)<br />Store in plastic bag up to 1 week. Use sprouts as<br />soon as possible.<br />Squash, summer<br />Do not wash until ready to use. Store in plastic bag<br />up to 1 week.<br />Tomatoes<br />Wash thoroughly in cold water; pat dry. Store<br />uncovered up to 1 week, depending on ripeness. Let<br />green tomatoes ripen at room temperature, out of<br />direct sun or in cold storage; then store as above.<br />Turnips<br />Cut off tops, leaving about 1 inch of stem on roots.<br />Do not wash roots until ready to use. Store in plastic<br />bag for 1 to 3 weeks. Wash greens thoroughly in<br />cold water; drain well. Store in plastic bag for up to<br />1week. Do not refrigerate turnip roots; keep in cold<br />storage.<br />Watermelon<br />Wash thoroughly in cold water; pat dry. Store<br />uncovered up to 1 week; cover cut surfaces with<br />plastic wrap.<br /><br />COLD STORAGE: KEEPING VEGETABLES FRESH<br />ALL WINTER<br />Cold storage is an old-fashioned but time-tested<br />method for keeping raw, whole vegetables through<br />the winter. If you've planted a big vegetable garden<br />and if you've got (or can construct) the storage space,<br />storing can be the most practical way to go.<br />You'll find many vegetables from your garden<br />well-suited to cold storage, including beets, carrots,<br />onions, parsnips, potatoes, pumpkins, sweet<br />potatoes, turnips, winter squash, and many others.<br />For a complete list, see "Directions for storing<br />vegetables," later in this chapter. Other vegetables<br />should be used fresh or preserved. Vegetables that<br />are not suitable for cold storage include asparagus,<br />fresh shelling beans, green beans, chayote, corn,<br />cucumbers, eggplant, fresh greens — beet greens,<br />chard, cress, dandelion, endive, lettuce, mustard,<br />and sorrel — fresh lentils, mushrooms, okra, green<br />onions, fresh peas and chick peas, fresh peanuts,<br />new potatoes, radishes, rhubarb, fresh soybeans,<br />spinach and New Zealand spinach, summer<br />squash, and ripe tomatoes. Shelled dried beans,<br />lentils, peas and chick peas, soybeans, and dried<br />peanuts can be kept up to one year in cold storage.<br />Late-ripening and maturing vegetables are the<br />best choices for cold storage. Certain varieties take<br />better to this method than others — late cabbage,<br />for example. Check seed catalogs and packets before<br />you buy and plant, and talk to the specialists at your<br />County or State Extension Service Office. They can<br />help you decide what vegetables to plant when<br />you're planning your garden, and what storage<br />methods work best in your area.<br />How cold storage works<br />Like any other method of food preservation, cold<br />storage keeps food from decomposing by stopping or<br />slowing down the activity of enzymes, bacteria,<br />yeasts, and microbes that can eventually spoil food. In<br />cold storage, this is done by keeping fresh, raw,<br />whole vegetables at temperatures between 32°F and<br />40°F. In this range, the food won't freeze, but it stays<br />cold enough to stop the spoilers. The length of storage<br />time varies with each vegetable, from a few weeks<br />for broccoli or cauliflower to four to six months for<br />potatoes. Dried beans and peas will keep the<br />longest —10 to 12 months.<br />One of the advantages of storing your vegetables<br />is that you don't risk eating unwholesome, spoiled<br />food. If the food goes bad, you can tell almost<br />immediately by the way it looks, smells, or feels. But<br />there's still a lot to learn about storage. For<br />example, squash have to be kept warmer than do<br />carrots, so these two vegetables can't be stored In<br />the same spot. Or, if you plan to keep cabbages or<br />turnips, don't store them indoors in the basement;<br />you'll soon find their strong, distinctive odor<br />penetrating up into the house. And, if you live in a<br />climate where heavy snow is common in winter,<br />outdoor storage of vegetables in mounds or barrels<br />isn't going to be practical for you, because deep snow<br />will make them inaccessible In winter.<br />Although storing vegetables may sound easy, it's<br />a lot more complex than at first meets the eye.<br />Although you don't have to do any chopping,<br />blanching, or processing of vegetables to be stored,<br />each vegetable does have to be handled in a special<br />manner. Perhaps the trickiest part of all is that you've<br />got to keep a weather eye on your stored food.<br />Since the temperature of cold storage depends on the<br />temperature outdoors, you may sometimes have to<br />move or change the location of stored vegetables,<br />open windows or vents, or adjust the humidity<br />level. When storing food indoors, keep a<br />thermometer as well as a humidity gauge in the<br />storage area so you can accurately monitor<br />temperature and moisture conditions.<br />Because it's harder to control the temperature of<br />stored food, spoilage can happen more easily than<br />with any other form of food preservation. Routine<br />checks for spoilage will help you prevent food losses<br />when storing vegetables indoors — but, once you<br />open up an outdoor mound or barrel, you'll have to<br />empty it of all the stored vegetables at once.<br />Storage methods for vegetables<br />Before the days of refrigerators, freezers, and<br />supermarkets, most families depended on cold<br />storage to keep a supply of vegetables all year long.<br />In colonial times, a certain portion of every harvest<br />was kept in cool caves or in straw-lined pits that<br />could withstand freezing temperatures. In later times,<br />most houses were built to include root cellars or<br />cold, damp basements intended as storage areas.<br />These chilly spots were perfect for keeping root<br />vegetables, celery, pumpkin, squash, potatoes, arid<br />other vegetables through the cold months.<br />Compared to houses of a century ago, our<br />modern dwellings are snug, warm, and dry. Today,<br />very few homes offer the cool, damp basement<br />corners, outdoor sheds, or attics that formerly served<br />as food storage areas. That means you'll have to<br />plan, and perhaps construct, one or more special<br />spots for cold storage of your garden's bounty —<br />particularly if you plan to store a variety of<br />vegetables.<br />In milder climates, where fros^t is infrequent and<br />doesn't penetrate too deeply, vegetables can be kept<br />in specially prepared outdoor locations. In colder<br />areas, you'll have to store the vegetables indoors as an<br />extra precaution against freezing. In the directions<br />for storing vegetables that follow, you'll find the<br />proper storage method for each vegetable.<br />Four vegetable groups<br />Where and how you store each vegetable will<br />depend on how much or how little cold it can take and<br />the amount of humidity it needs to keep fresh.<br />Vegetables to be stored fall into four groups: cold-<br />moist, cool-moist, cold-dry, and cool-dry.<br />Vegetables that should be cold-moist stored<br />make up the largest group, and include beets,<br />broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots,<br />cauliflower, celery, turnips, and many others. These<br />vegetables require the coldest storage<br />temperatures — 32°F — and the highest<br />humidity — 95 percent — of all vegetables that can<br />be stored.<br />The second group of vegetables requires cool-<br />moist: melons, peppers, potatoes, and green<br />tomatoes. These vegetables can be kept at<br />temperatures ranging from 38°F to 60°F and at<br />humidity levels of 80 to 90 percent.<br />Dry onions and shallots require cold-dry storage<br />temperatures of 32°F to 35°F and humidity of 60 to 75<br />percent.<br />The cool-dry group is composed of pumpkin and<br />winter squash, dried peas and beans, and live seeds,<br />all of which must be stored at temperatures of<br />50°F to 55''F and at a humidity of 60 to 70 percent.<br />Vegetables in the cold-moist and cool-moist<br />groups can be stored outdoors in a mound or barrel,<br />or indoors in a specially insulated basement storage<br />room that is partitioned off from the central heating<br />area or a root cellar. Vegetables in the cold-dry and<br />cool-dry groups can be stored indoors in a cool area<br />of a heated basement, but they must be kept away<br />from water that might condense and drip down<br />from overhead pipes. Cold-dry storage can also be<br />provided by a dry shed or attic, window wells, or<br />cellar stair storage.<br />The accompanying chart shows how vegetables<br />in each of these four groups should be stored — at<br />what temperature, at what humidity, and for how<br />long. Any one of the storage methods discussed in this<br />chapter can be used if it supplies the necessary<br />conditions of temperature and humidity. For some<br />vegetables in the cool-moist group, the refrigerator<br />is an ideal storage area. And when cold storage<br />doesn't add significantly to the length of time you<br />can keep a vegetable from the cold-moist group, you<br />may prefer just to refrigerate your crop, as detailed<br />above.<br />Mound storage<br />When planning mound storage, first find a spot in<br />your garden where the mound will have good<br />drainage. Dig a shallow, dish-shaped hole six to<br />eight inches deep, and line it with straw or leaves.<br />Spread the straw bed with some metal screening (to<br />keep 6ut burrowing animals), and then stack your<br />vegetables in a cone on the prepared bed. Wrap the<br />individual pieces and separate the layers of food with<br />packing material.<br />Making a cone or volcano shape, cover the<br />mound with more straw or leaves, then shovel on<br />three or four inches of dirt. Cover all but the top of<br />the cone. Pack the dirt firmly with the back of your<br />shovel. Pile on another thick (six- to eight-inch)<br />layer of straw, but don't cover the top of the cone — it<br />must be left open for ventilation. Put a piece of<br />board on top of each mound to protect it from the<br />weather. If necessary, weight the board with a<br />stone or a brick to keep it in place. Finally, dig a<br />shallow drainage ditch around the mound.<br />You can store several kinds of vegetables in the<br />same mound, if they're separated by packing<br />material — that way you can enjoy a bushel of<br />mixed vegetables instead of all carrots or all potatoes.<br />However, several small mounds are more practical<br />than one large mound. Once you've opened a mound,<br />it can't be repacked again—which means you'd<br />have to take out all the vegetables at one time. With<br />several smaller mounds, you can bring manageable<br />portions of vegetables into the house, without having<br />to disturb the whole store. The U.S. Department of<br />Agriculture recommends changing the location of the<br />pits every year to avoid contamination.<br />Cabbage mound storage<br />If you want to be able to remove cabbages a few at a<br />time, you can store heads in a mound that's<br />rectangular rather than volcano-shaped. Prepare a<br />long, narrow, rectangular mound with the same base<br />of straw or leaves, metal screening, and more straw,<br />as directed for mound storage. Then put in the<br />individual heads of cabbage head-down in one<br />layer, more straw, and a final layer of dirt. Dig a small<br />trench along each long side of the mound to drain<br />off water. With this type of mound, you can remove<br />just a few cabbages at a time, because there's only<br />one layer of heads.<br />Barrel storage<br />Choose a well-drained spot in your garden for<br />barrel storage. Dig out a hole deep enough to cradle<br />the barrel on its side — the barrel doesn't have to be<br />completely buried. Line the hole with straw, and nest<br />the barrel into it. Pack in the vegetables, cover the<br />barrel opening with metal screening or tight-fitting<br />wood covers to keep out rodents, then cover the<br />whole barrel with several insulating layers of straw and<br />dirt. Be sure to mark the location of the barrel<br />mouth, so you can find it easily when you're ready to<br />dig out the vegetables.<br />Frame storage<br />Frame storage is a special method that works best<br />for celery and celerylike vegetables, such as Chinese<br />cabbage and fennel. In this little underground lean-<br />to, you store the celery bunches upright with their<br />roots in the ground. Dig a trench about one foot<br />deep, two feet wide, and as long as needed to hold the<br />celery you've grown. Harvest the celery, leaving the<br />roots intact, and stand the bunches up — closely<br />together— in the trench. Water the roots, and<br />leave the trench open until the celery tops are dry.<br />Build a lean-to over the celery with the boards — set<br />a wide board on edge along one side of the trenched<br />celery, and prop another wide board against this<br />support to make a slanted roof over the bunches of<br />celery. Finally, cover the lean-to with straw and<br />then with dirt.<br />INDOOR STORAGE — THE ROOT CELLAR<br />If you live in a region where freezing or very snowy<br />weather is common in winter, you'll need to store<br />your vegetables indoors. Your house (or possibly<br />another building on your property) may offer several<br />of the storage areas described in this section, or you<br />may decide to build a basement cold storage room. If<br />you live in an older house, there may be a fruit cellar<br />or cold corner that could easily be closed off to stay<br />cold and moist. Or, your newer house may have a<br />crawl space that's cold and damp. However it's done,<br />indoor storage calls for a bit more upkeep than<br />outdoor storage, since you've got to keep an eye on<br />the temperature, the ventilation, and the humidity<br />to which your vegetables are exposed, as well as make<br />routine checks for spoilage.<br />Check around your property to see if it offers<br />storage areas like those described in this section. Test<br />the temperature and humidity in any area you're<br />considering before you use it for storing your<br />vegetables. The ideal time to plan your storage area<br />is in winter before you plant.<br />Temperature. You'll need to put up a reliable<br />indoor/outdoor thermometer in your storage area.<br />Most vegetables are stored at temperatures below<br />40°F but above freezing. However, there are some<br />exceptions; watery vegetables such as tomatoes,<br />green peppers, winter squash, and pumpkins, must<br />all be cool-stored at temperatures above 40°F to keep<br />from spoiling.<br />Humidity. Unless extra humidity is provided,<br />your cold-moist and cool-moist stored vegetables will<br />dry up and shrivel when stored indoors. Keep a<br />humidity gauge in your storage area to be sure the<br />vegetables are getting neither too much nor too<br />little humidity, and make any necessary adjustments<br />from time to time. You don't need fancy equipment<br />or techniques for maintaining the right humidity. You<br />might put pans of water or a tub of dampened sand<br />on the floor; cover the floor with damp straw, sand, or<br />sawdust; use damp sand or sawdust for packing the<br />food; or line packing boxes with plastic bags.<br />Ventilation. You need ventilation in your storage<br />area in case the indoor temperature grows too warm<br />for the vegetables you're keeping. If that should<br />happen, you must let in some cold winter air to cool<br />things off. Good ventilation can be provided by a<br />vent to the outside, a window, or a door. Although it's<br />simple enough to open a window or a door to lower<br />the temperature of your storage place, you must also<br />protect your stored vegetables from contact with<br />the air. Oxygen reacts with other substances in food to<br />cause changes that will spoil the food. Since whole<br />vegetables "breathe," they must be wrapped or<br />packed in materials that will prevent oxidation. You<br />must also keep the vegetables separate from one<br />another so any spoilage won't be able to spread. To do<br />this, layer the vegetables with clean, dry leaves,<br />sand, moss, or dirt, or wrap each vegetable<br />individually in paper.<br />Cellar steps storage<br />If your house has an outside basement entrance<br />with stairs going down, you can use it as a storage<br />area — the stairs become your shelves. You'll need<br />a door at the top of the stairs, and probably another<br />door at the bottom of the stairs, over the existing<br />house door, to hold in the basement's heat. Which<br />door you use as access depends on the climate. In a<br />vegetables. In colder climates, you may need to go<br />through the basement. Cover the outside door to<br />keep your vegetables from freezing.<br />Use a thermometer to check the temperature on<br />each step and put barrels or boxes of food where the<br />temperature is right for each item. It's a good idea<br />to set a wooden plank as insulation on each step. If you<br />need to add more humidity, set a bucket of damp<br />sand on one of the steps.<br />Window well storage<br />Window wells can make nifty little storage areas, if<br />they don't collect and hold water. Line the wells with<br />straw or bedding, put in the vegetables and add<br />packing material, if necessary. Then cover the wells<br />with boards or more bedding. If the windows open<br />inward, you may be able to take vegetables out from<br />the basement, without ever having to go outside<br />and dig!<br />Dry shed or attic storage<br />Dry shed or attic storage provides cold, dry<br />storage — just right for onions, shallots, pumpkins,<br />and winter squash. By "dry shed," we mean any<br />location that offers constant low temperatures and<br />low humidity. This could be a garage, an unheated<br />breezeway, a shed or storage building, even an<br />unused doghouse, (if your garage or storage shed is<br />fragrant with oil and gasoline, it's no good for storing<br />vegetables. Some vegetables will absorb the oil and<br />gasoline fumes and odors.) In milder winter zones,<br />shelves in a storage shed or boxes on the floor may<br />work well. If you live in a very cold region, you may<br />have to insulate the corner of the shed to keep the<br />vegetables from freezing.<br />Attic storage is convenient only if temperatures<br />can be held somewhat constant. Since many attics will<br />warm up quickly on a sunny day, you'll have to<br />construct a special little storage area In it. Choose a<br />spot that's well-insulated and near ventilation in the<br />coldest part of the attic. Partition and roof it off from<br />the rest of the attic, and use it for storing winter<br />squash and onions.<br />Basement storage room<br />You can go all out and build a cold storage room in<br />your basement. What you'll be doing is creating a<br />separate little room, insulated from heat. You can<br />get plans for constructing indoor cold storage rooms<br />from agricultural extension offices, lumberyards,<br />or gardening magazines.<br />Basically, you'll have to partition off an area that<br />has no heating pipes or ducts. For ventilation, there<br />should be a window — two or more windows if the<br />room is partitioned. For air circulation, plan to have<br />removable slatted flooring and shelves. Slatted<br />flooring makes it easier to use dampened sawdust or<br />other wet material to raise the humidity.<br />BASIC EQUIPMENT FOR STORING VEGETABLES<br />In addition to the proper indoor or outdoor storage<br />areas, you'll need the following equipment to store<br />your vegetables:<br />• Containers, such as wooden boxes, crates,<br />barrels, or plastic garbage bags — cardboard<br />boxes are only suitable for storing vegetables that<br />need dry conditions.<br />•Newspapers or other paper for wrapping<br />vegetables.<br />•Packing and insulating materials, such as sand,<br />sawdust, peat, sphagnum moss, leaves, straw, or<br />wood shavings.<br />•An indoor/outdoor thermometer for monitoring<br />temperatures in an indoor storage area.<br />•A humidity gauge for monitoring the humidity in<br />an indoor storage area.<br />•Metal screening for use as protection against<br />contamination by rodents in outdoor storage<br />areas.<br />•Wood slats for constructing lean-to and frames.<br />•A shovel for digging out mound, frame, or barrel<br />storage areas.<br />BASIC COLD-STORING TECHNIQUES<br />Your vegetables must be harvested at just the right<br />moment so they'll take well to storing and won't decay<br />before you're ready to use them. Damaged or<br />imperfect vegetables will spoil quickly, so you must be<br />very careful when handling them prior to storing.<br />Never store bruised or damaged vegetables; they can<br />cause spoilage of your whole crop. It's usually<br />better to clean off but not wash vegetables before<br />storing, because washing can lead to the<br />development of soft rot.<br />With methods of food preservation, you can<br />process the food and then forget about it until you're<br />ready to use it. Not so with storage. Since the<br />temperature outdoors is the major factor affecting the.<br />storage of your vegetables, you have to be<br />constantly alert to the changes in weather. If it turns<br />suddenly colder, warmer, or wetter, you must<br />make whatever adjustments are needed to maintain<br />the proper conditions in your storage area. You<br />must also make regular spoilage checks of the boxes,<br />bags, or bins of vegetables stored indoors.<br />Handling<br />Harvest vegetables as late as possible. For many<br />vegetables, this means plant later than usual in order<br />to get a late harvest. You should wait until the first<br />frost warnings to harvest. Carrots, parsnips, potatoes,<br />and turnips, for example, can stay in the ground<br />even after the first frost or two, if the ground is well<br />mulched.<br />Pick only perfect vegetables for cold storage and<br />handle them carefully to avoid bruising. One bad item<br />can spread decay to others and ruin the whole box,<br />barrel, or mound.<br />Harvest on a dry day, if possible, and let the<br />vegetables dry on the ground, in the sun, for several<br />hours before packing them away. Onions often<br />need several days of drying; potatoes, however,<br />shouldn't be exposed to hot sun or strong wind.<br />Produce should be cool when packed.<br />Wash vegetables, if you must, but most experts<br />agree that all you really need to do is brush off excess<br />dirt. The vegetables should be dry before you pack<br />them.<br />Curing<br />Potatoes, pumpkins, and most types of winter<br />squash have to be cured before storing. Curing is<br />holding the vegetables at a warm temperature —<br />70°F to 85°F — in a dark, humid place for about 10<br />days. Curing hardens the skins and rinds and helps<br />heal surface cuts, reducing mold and rot damage.<br />Packing<br />Some vegetables — potatoes, onions, and<br />squash — can go from the garden right into boxes,<br />barrels, plastic bags, or other containers. Root<br />vegetables — such as beets, carrots, turnips, and<br />parsnips — are better packed in some material such<br />as newspaper that will insulate them, slow down their<br />breathing, and keep them from touching one<br />another, so decay can't spread from root to root.<br />You can wrap the vegetables separately in<br />newspaper, then pack them loosely in boxes, barrels,<br />or plastic bags. If you use plastic bags, poke a few<br />holes in the bags to allow some ventilation. Other<br />packing materials include damp or dry sand,<br />sawdust, peat, sphagnum moss, leaves, straw, or<br />wood shavings. Line the container with a layer of<br />packing wood material, then arrange a layer of<br />vegetables, leave space around each vegetable for<br />packing material. Fill in around each vegetable and<br />then again on top with a layer of packing material.<br />Repeat these steps until the container is full. Be<br />careful to leave enough room for examining the<br />produce at the bottom of the container when<br />you're making routine spoilage checks.<br />Moist sand is sometimes suggested for packing<br />certain vegetables. You'll know the sand is just the<br />right consistency if it feels cold and falls apart in<br />your hand when squeezed, leaving just a few particles<br />sticking to your skin.<br />DIRECTIONS FOR COLD-STORING VEGETABLES<br />If you plan to store a variety of vegetables, you'll<br />probably have to arrange several different kinds of<br />storage. The following directions for storing<br />vegetables tell you which methods are best suited to<br />each vegetable. Choose the one that works best for<br />your climate and your available space.<br />Artichokes<br />Cut the fleshy, tight buds before they open.<br />Artichokes are best stored in the refrigerator, but they<br />can be kept in cold storage. Store on shelves or<br />loosely packed in open boxes at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to<br />95 percent humidity (moist), with some air<br />circulation. Store in a basement storage room or root<br />cellar up to 1 month.<br />Beans, dried (broad, dry, or lima)<br />Dried beans won't freeze, and will store well when<br />properly dried and packaged. Dry them according to<br />the instructions in "How to Dry Vegetables." Then<br />store them at 32°F to 50°F and 65 to 70 percent humidity<br />(dry), with some air circulation. Store in a dry shed<br />or attic for 10 to 12 months.<br />Beets<br />Choose late-maturing varieties and leave them in<br />the ground until after the first few frosts. Dig them up<br />when the soil is dry, and leave them on the ground<br />for 3 or 4 hours. Remove the tops, leaving about 1/2<br />inch of the crowns. Don't remove the roots. Pack in<br />packing material in wooden boxes, barrels, plastic<br />bags with air holes, or in a mound or buried barrel.<br />Store at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity<br />(moist), with just a little air circulation. Beets will<br />freeze at 30°F. Store in a basement storage room, root<br />cellar, mound, or buried barrel for 5 to 6 months.<br />Broccoli<br />Harvest in late fall. Remove the root, but leave the<br />leaves on as protection. Pack in boxes; separate and<br />cover the stalks with moist sand. Store at 32°F to 34°F<br />and 90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with some air<br />circulation. Broccoli will freeze at about 30°F. Store<br />in a basement storage room or root cellar up to 3<br />weeks.<br />Brussels sprouts<br />Leave Brussels sprouts in the ground and mulch<br />them heavily to protect the sprouts. Brussels sprouts<br />plants can be stored in a frame, like celery, or in a<br />mound, like cabbage, but often the size of the plants<br />makes this impractical. Store Brussels sprouts<br />plants at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity<br />(moist), with just a little air circulation. Store in a<br />basement storage room or root cellar up to 1 month.<br />Cabbage<br />Choose late-maturing varieties. For storage in a<br />root cellar, remove the roots, then cover the heads in<br />moist dirt or sand in a bin. For outdoor mound<br />storage, don't remove the stem or root. Place the<br />cabbages head-down, pack straw between the<br />heads, then cover with a final layer of dirt. Store at 32°F<br />to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with<br />just a little air circulation. Cabbage will freeze at 30°F.<br />Store in a mound, buried barrel, or root cellar for 3<br />to 4 months. Do not store cabbages in a basement<br />storage room; their strong odor can escape up into<br />the house.<br />Cardoon<br />Harvest the plants with roots intact. Don't remove<br />the tops. Set the roots firmly in moist sand or dirt so<br />the plants stand upright, and construct a frame over<br />the plants, as detailed earlier in this chapter. Keep the<br />roots moist during storage, but don't water the<br />leaves of the plants. Store at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95<br />percent humidity (moist), with just a little air<br />circulation. Cardoon will freeze at just under 32°F.<br />Store in a basement storage room, outside frame,<br />or root cellar for 2 to 3 months.<br />Carrots<br />Choose late-maturing varieties, and leave them in<br />the ground until after the first couple of frosts. After<br />harvesting, leave them on the ground for 3 to 4<br />hours. Remove the tops, leaving about 1/2 inch of the<br />crown. Don't remove the roots. Pack in packing<br />material in wooden boxes, barrels, plastic bags with<br />air holes, or bury in a mound. Store at 32°F to 34°F<br />and 90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with just a little<br />air circulation. Carrots will freeze at about 30°F.<br />Store in a basement storage room, mound, buried<br />barrel, or root cellar 4 to 5 months.<br />Cauliflower<br />Harvest in late fall. Remove the root, but leave on<br />the outer leaves as protection. Pack in boxes; separate<br />and cover the heads with moist sand. Store at 32°F to<br />34°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with a little<br />air circulation. Cauliflower will freeze at about 30°F.<br />Store in a basement storage room or root cellar for 2 to<br />3 weeks.<br />Celeriac<br />Dig up the roots when the soil is dry, and leave them<br />on the ground for 3 or4 hours. Cut off the tops, leaving<br />2 or 3 inches of the crown; don't remove the root<br />fibers. Pack in wooden boxes, barrels, or plastic bags<br />with air holes, or in a mound or buried barrel. Store<br />at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity (moist),<br />with just a little air circulation. Celeriac will freeze at<br />just under 32°F. Store in a basement storage room,<br />buried barrel,mound,or root cellar for 2 to3 months.<br />Celery<br />Harvest the plants with roots intact. Don't remove<br />the tops. Set the roots firmly in moist sand or dirt so<br />the celery stands upright, and construct a frame<br />over the plants, as detailed earlier in this chapter.<br />Keep the roots moist during storage, but don't<br />water the leaves of the plants. Store at 32°F to 34°F and<br />90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with just a little air<br />circulation. Celery will freeze at just under 32°F. Store<br />in a basement storage room, outside frame, or root<br />cellar for 2 to 3 months.<br />Chick peas^ dried<br />Dried chick peas won't freeze, and will store well<br />when properly dried and packaged. Dry them<br />according to the instructions in "How to Dry<br />Vegetables." Then store them at 32°F to 50°F and 65 to<br />70 percent humidity (dry), with some air circulation.<br />Store in a dry shed or attic for 10 to 12 months.<br />Chicory<br />Harvest the plants with the roots intact, and don't<br />trim the leaves. Tie all the leaves together, then stand<br />the plants upright in moist sand or dirt and<br />construct a frame over the plants, as detailed earlier in<br />this chapter. Store at 32°F to 34°F and 85 to 90<br />percent humidity (moderately moist), with just a little<br />air circulation. Chicory will freeze at just under<br />32°F. Store in a basement storage room, outside<br />frame, or root cellar for 2 to 3 months.<br />To store the roots only, dig them up when the soil<br />is dry, and leave them on the ground for 3 to 4 hours.<br />Remove the tops, leaving about 1/2 inch of the<br />crowns. Pack in packing material in wooden boxes,<br />barrels, plastic bags with air holes, or in a mound or<br />buried barrel. Store at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent<br />humidity (moist), with just a little air circulation.<br />Chicory roots freeze at about 30°F. Store in a basement<br />storage room, mound, buried barrel, or root cellar<br />for 10 to 12 months.<br />Chinese cabbage<br />Harvest the plant with roots intact. Don't remove<br />the tops. Set the roots firmly in moist dirt so the<br />cabbage stands upright and construct a frame over<br />the plants, as detailed earlier in this chapter. Keep<br />roots moist during storage but don't water the<br />leaves of the plants. Store at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95<br />percent humidity (moist), with just a little air<br />circulation. Chinese cabbage will freeze at just under<br />32°F. Store in a basement storage room, outside<br />frame, or root cellar for 2 to 3 months.<br />Fennel<br />Harvest the plants with roots intact. Don't remove<br />the tops. Set the roots firmly in moist sand or dirt so<br />the plants stand upright, and construct a frame over<br />the plants, as detailed earlier in this chapter. Keep the<br />roots moist during storage, but don't water the<br />leaves of the plants. Store at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95<br />percent humidity (moist), with just a little air<br />circulation. Fennel will freeze at just under 32°F.<br />Store in a basement storage room, outside frame,<br />or root cellar for 2 to 3 months.<br />Horseradish<br />Choose late-maturing plants and leave them In the<br />ground until after the first few frosts. Dig them up<br />when the soil is dry, and leave them on the ground<br />for 3 or4 hours. Remove tops, leaving about 1/2 inch of<br />the crown. Don't remove the roots. Pack in packing<br />material in wooden boxes, barrels, plastic bags with<br />air holes, or in a mound or buried barrel. Store at<br />32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity (moist),<br />with a little air circulation. Horseradish freezes at<br />about 30°F. Store in a basement storage room,<br />mound, buried barrel, or root cellar for 10 to 12<br />months.<br />Greens (collards kale and turnip)<br />Harvest the plant with roots intact. Don't remove<br />the tops. Set the roots firmly in moist dirt so it<br />stands upright. Keep the roots moist during<br />storage, but don't water the leaves of the plant. Store<br />at 32''F to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity<br />(moist), with some air circulation. Greens freeze at<br />just below 32°F. Store in a frame for 2 to 3 weeks.<br />jerusalem artichokes<br />Dig the roots when the soil is dry, and leave them on<br />the ground for 3 or 4 hours. Remove the tops, leaving<br />about 1/2 inch of the crowns. Then pack into boxes<br />or other well-ventilated containers, but without<br />additional packing material. Store at 32°F to 34°F and<br />90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with little air<br />circulation. Jerusalem artichokes will freeze at just<br />below 31°F. Store in a basement storage room or root<br />cellar for 2 to 5 months.<br />Kohlrabi<br />Choose late-maturing varieties and leave in the<br />ground until after the first few frosts. Dig when the soil<br />is dry, and leave on the ground for 3 or 4 hours.<br />Remove the tops, leaving about 1/2 inch of the crown.<br />Don't remove the roots. Pack in packing material in<br />wooden boxes, barrels, plastic bags with air holes, or<br />in a mound or buried barrel. Store at 32°F to 34°F at<br />90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with just a little air<br />circulation. Kohlrabi freezes at 30°F. Store in a<br />basement storage room, mound, buried barrel, or<br />root cellar for 1 to 2 months.<br />Leeks<br />Harvest with roots intact. Don't remove the tops.<br />Set the roots firmly in moist dirt so the leeks stand<br />upright. Keep the roots moist during storage, but<br />don't water the leaves of the plant. Store at 32°F to 34''F<br />and 90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with some air<br />circulation. Leeks freeze at just below 32''F. Store in a<br />basement storage room, outside frame, or root<br />cellar for 2 to 3 months.<br />Lentils, dried<br />Dried lentils won't freeze and will store well when<br />properly dried and packaged. Dry them according to<br />the instructions in "How to Dry Vegetables." Then<br />store them at 32°F to 50°F and 65 to 70 percent humidity<br />(dry), with some air circulation. Store In a dry shed<br />or attic for 10 to 12 months.<br />Muskmelon<br />Harvest melons slightly immature; they will<br />continue to ripen during storage. Store at 45°F to 50°F<br />and 85 to 90 percent humidity (moderately moist),<br />with some air circulation. Pile or stack melons loosely,<br />with no packing material, on shelves in a basement<br />storage room or root cellar for 2 to 3 weeks.<br />Onions<br />Dig up mature onion bulbs and leave them on the<br />ground to dry completely, usually about a week. Cut<br />off the tops, leaving 1/2 inch of stem. Pack the bulbs<br />loosely, without any packing material, in well-<br />ventilated containers. If you like, braid the tops<br />together and hang the onions from hooks in a cold<br />storage area. Store at 32°F to 34°F and 60 to 75<br />percent humidity (dry), with some air circulation.<br />Onions freeze at just under 31°F. Store in a dry shed<br />or attic for 6 to 7 months.<br />Parsnips<br />Choose late-maturing varieties and leave them in<br />the ground until after the first few frosts. Dig them up<br />when the soil is dry, and leave them on the ground<br />for 3 or 4 hours. Remove the tops, leaving about 1/2<br />inch of the crown. Don't remove the roots. Pack in<br />packing material in wooden boxes, barrels, plastic<br />bags with air holes, or in a mound or buried barrel.<br />Store at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity<br />(moist), with a little air circulation. Parsnips freeze<br />at 30°F. Store in a basement storage room, mound,<br />buried barrel, or root cellar for 2 to 6 months.<br />Peanuts, dried<br />Dried peanuts won't freeze, and will store well for<br />10 to 12 months when properly dried and packaged.<br />Dry them according to the instructions in "How to<br />Dry Vegetables." Then store them at 32°F to 50°F and<br />65 to 70 percent humidity (dry), in a dry shed or<br />attic.<br />Peas, dried<br />(shelling, black-eyed)<br />Dried peas won't freeze, and will store well when<br />properly dried and packaged. Dry them according to<br />the instructions in "How to Dry Vegetables." Then<br />store them at 32°F to 50°F and 65 to 70 percent humidity<br />(dry), with some air circulation. Store in a dry shed<br />or attic for 10 to 12 months.<br />Peppers<br />Harvest before the first frost. Choose only the<br />firmest peppers for storing, since they're easily<br />damaged. Pack into plastic bags punched with air<br />holes; then place in boxes. Peppers must be<br />monitored very carefully during storage to be sure<br />they don't become too moist or too cold. Store at 45°F<br />to 50°F and 85 to 95 percent humidity (moderately<br />moist), with a little air circulation. Peppers will freeze<br />at just below 31°F. Store in a basement storage room<br />or root cellar for 2 to 3 weeks.<br />Potatoes<br />Choose late-maturing varieties. Early potatoes are<br />difficult to keep in cold storage. Dig the potatoes<br />when the soil is dry, and leave them on the ground<br />for 3 or 4 hours. Avoid sun and wind damage. Cure<br />by storing them at regular basement temperatures —<br />60°F to 65°F—in moist air for 10 days. Then pack<br />them into boxes or other well-ventilated containers,<br />but without additional packing material. Store at<br />38°F to40°F, and 85 to 90 percent humidity (moderately<br />moist), with a little air circulation. Potatoes will<br />freeze at just below 31°F. Store in a basement storage<br />room or root cellar for 4 to 6 months.<br />Pumpkins<br />Harvest just before the first frost, leaving an inch or<br />so of stem. Cure at 80°F to 85°F for 10 days, or for 2 to 3<br />weeks at slightly lower temperatures. After curing,<br />move them to a cooler spot for long-term storage.<br />Store at 50°F to 55°F and 60 to 75 percent humidity<br />(dry), with a little air circulation. Pumpkins will freeze<br />at just above 30°F. Store on shelves in a basement<br />storage room, dry shed, or attic for 3 to 6 months.<br />Rutabagas<br />Choose late-maturing varieties and leave them in<br />the ground until after the first few frosts. Dig them<br />up when the soil is dry, and leave them on the ground<br />for 3 or 4 hours. Remove the tops, leaving about 1/2<br />inch of the crowns. Don't remove the roots. Pack in<br />packing material in wooden boxes, barrels, or<br />plastic bags with air holes, or in a mound or buried<br />barrel. Store at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent<br />humidity (moist), with a little air circulation.<br />Rutabagas will freeze at about 30°F. Store in a<br />basement storage room, mound, buried barrel, or<br />root cellar for 2 to 4 months.<br />Salsify<br />Harvest in late season. Dig them up when the soil is<br />dry, and leave them on the ground for 3 or 4 hours.<br />Remove the tops, leaving about 1/2 inch of the<br />crowns. Don't remove the roots. Pack in packing<br />material in wooden boxes, barrels, plastic bags with<br />air holes, or in a mound or buried barrel. Store at 32°F<br />to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with a<br />little air circulation. Salsify freezes at about 30°F. Store<br />in a basement storage room, mound, buried barrel,<br />or root cellar for 2 to 4 months.<br /><br />Seed live<br />Most gardeners buy seeds to plant, but you may<br />want to harvest seeds to sprout when your vegetables<br />mature. Cabbage and lettuce seeds, for instance,<br />can both be sprouted, as detailed in "How to Sprout<br />Vegetables." Leave the seeds on the plant until<br />they're dry and fully mature; then harvest them. Store<br />dried seeds in airtight plastic bags in a metal<br />container, or in airtight glass jars; keep glass jars in a<br />bag or wrap in newspaper to keep light from<br />reaching the seeds. Store at 32°F to 40°F and 65 to 70<br />percent humidity (dry). Store in a dry shed or attic<br />for 10 to 12 months.<br />Shallots<br />Dig up mature bulbs and leave them on the ground<br />to dry completely, usually about a week. Cut off the<br />tops, leaving about 1/2 inch of stem. Pack the bulbs<br />loosely, without any packing materials, in well-<br />ventilated containers. Store at 32°F to 34°F and 60 to<br />75 percent humidity (dry), with some air Circulation.<br />Shallots freeze at just under 31°F. Store in a dry shed<br />or attic for 2 to 8 months.<br />Soybeans^ dried<br />Dried soybeans won't freeze, and will store well<br />when properly dried and packaged. Dry them<br />according to the instructions in "How to Dry<br />Vegetables." Then store them at 32°F to 50°F and 65 to<br />70 percent humidity (dry), with some air circulation.<br />Store in a dry shed or attic for 10 to 12 months.<br />Squashy winter<br />Harvest just before the first frost, leaving on an inch<br />or so of stem. Cure at 80°F to 85°F for 10 days, or for 2 to<br />3 weeks at slightly lower temperatures. After<br />curing, store at 50°F to 60°F and 70 to 75 percent<br />humidity (moderately dry), with some air<br />circulation. Squash freezes at just above 30°F. Store in<br />a basement storage room, root cellar, dry shed, or<br />attic for 5 to 6 months.<br />Sweet potatoes<br />Choose late-maturing varieties. Put sweet potatoes<br />directly into storage containers when you harvest<br />them. Cure them under moist conditions at 80°F to<br />85°F for 10 days. At lower temperature, curing takes<br />longer—2 to 3 weeks. Stack storage crates and<br />cover them to hold in the humidity while curing. After<br />curing, store at 55°F to 60°F and 85 to 90 percent<br />humidity (moderately moist), with some air<br />circulation. Sweet potatoes freeze at just below<br />30°F. Store in a basement storage room or dry shed for<br />4 to 6 months.<br />Tomatoes, green<br />Plant late so the vines will still be vigorous when you<br />pick the tomatoes for storage. Harvest green tomatoes<br />just before the first killing frost. When you harvest,<br />remove the stems from the tomatoes, then wash and<br />dry them before storing. Be careful not to break skins.<br />Separate the green tomatoes from those that are<br />showing red. Pack green tomatoes 1 or 2 layers deep in<br />boxes or trays; you can also ripen a few tomatoes<br />for immediate use by keeping them in closed paper<br />bags in the house and out of the direct sun. Store<br />green tomatoes at 55°F to 60°F and 85 to 90 percent<br />humidity (moderately moist), with good air<br />circulation. At room temperature mature green<br />tomatoes ripen in 2 weeks; at 55°F, ripening will be<br />slowed down to nearly 1 month. Immature green<br />tomatoes will take longer to ripen at either<br />temperature; tomatoes showing some red will ripen<br />faster, and can't be held in storage as long as totally<br />green ones. Check your tomatoes once a week to<br />monitor the ripening; remove the ripe ones and<br />any that have begun to decay. Tomatoes will freeze at<br />about 31°F. Store in a basement storage room or dry<br />shed up to1 month.<br />Turnips<br />Choose late-maturing varieties and leave them in<br />the ground until after the first few frosts. Dig them up<br />when the soil is dry, and leave them on the ground<br />for 3 or 4 hours. Remove the tops, leaving about 1/2<br />inch of the crown. Don't remove the roots. Pack in<br />packing material in wooden boxes, barrels, plastic<br />bags with air holes, or in a mound or buried barrel.<br />Since the strong odor of turnips can escape from the<br />basement up into the house, it's wisest to store<br />them separately and outdoors. Store at 32°F to 34°F and<br />90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with a little air<br />circulation. Turnips will freeze at about 30°F. Store in a<br />mound or buried barrel for 4 to 5 months.<br />Watermelon<br />Harvest melons when fully ripe; they will not<br />continue to ripen during storage. Store at 45°F to 50°F<br />and 80 to 85 percent humidity (moderately moist),<br />with some air circulation. Pile or stack melons loosely,<br />with no packing material, on shelves in a basement<br />storage room or root cellar for 2 to 3 weeks.<br />Freezing foods is one of the fastest and simplest<br />methods of food preservation. It's easy to<br />prepare food for the freezer and easy to prepare<br />food for the table from the freezer. Best of all, foods<br />preserved by freezing taste more like fresh than<br />their canned or dried counterparts, and they retain<br />more color and nutritive value.<br />Almost all vegetables take well to freezing. In<br />fact, some vegetables shouldn't be preserved and<br />stored by any other method. The list of<br />better-frozen vegetables includes broccoli,<br />Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, eggplant,<br />mushrooms, parsnips, edible-pod peas, pumpkins,<br />rutabagas, and winter squash.<br />Although the techniques are simple and easy,<br />freezing is a more expensive form of storage than<br />canning. The freezer itself Is an investment, and it<br />takes electricity to run. But if you manage your freezer<br />wisely, it can still help you save on food costs.<br />Frozen vegetables can be stored a lot longer than<br />many other foods, but shouldn't be kept stored for<br />more than 12 months. By keeping your frozen<br />foods in a constant state of turnover, the freezer space<br />is being given maximum use. To get the most value<br />from your freezer, use up the foods you've stored and<br />replace them with others in season. The higher the<br />rate of turnover, the lower the cost per pound of food.<br />Keep a list near the freezer to indicate what<br />you've used, what's left, and what new foods you may<br />be adding from time to time. By keeping track of<br />what you have and how long it's been in the freezer,<br />you'll be sure to use up all your frozen foods within<br />the recommended storage period.<br />Getting started<br />Freezing is a simple method of food preservation<br />and requires only a few steps. Having selected<br />good-quaiity vegetables, then prepared and<br />packaged them for freezing, you can sit back and let<br />cold temperatures do the rest of the work.<br />Starting with the highest-quality vegetables and<br />other foods is the single most Important factor In<br />guaranteeing the quality of your frozen foods, but<br />you must follow the directions for all freezing<br />procedures exactly. Select the most perfect foods,<br />and always exercise the strictest sanitary conditions<br />and precautions when handling them. You can<br />never be too careful about properly packaging and<br />sealing foods for freezer storage.<br />If you follow freezing directions to the letter and<br />keep food In a well-managed freezer, your frozen<br />vegetables will be as delicious when you serve them<br />as when you preserved them.<br /><br />STOPPING THE SPOILERS<br />Extreme cold — and that means temperatures of<br />0°F or lower — is what stops the growth of the<br />microorganisms In or around food that can cause<br />spoilage. Zero temperatures also slow down enzyme<br />activity and oxidation, which are chemical changes<br />affecting the color, flavor, and texture of food.<br />Although cold doesn't kill off these spoilers the way<br />heating at high temperatures for canning does,<br />freezing halts their activity during the time the food<br />Is stored.<br />There are five major spoilers that can affect<br />frozen food If it isn't handled properly:<br />•Bacteria^ yeasts^ and molds are normally present In<br />all fresh foods. When these begin to multiply<br />rapidly, spoilage occurs. You can stop these spoilers<br />In their tracks by using the highest-quality<br />vegetables and other foods, by preparing them<br />under the most sanitary conditions, and by<br />storing food at the specified, very cold<br />temperatures.<br />•Enzymes, also normally present in all food, work<br />to bring about chemical changes In it. These<br />changes result in spoilage — unless enzyme activity<br />is stopped before food is frozen, enzymes can<br />destroy the fresh flavor of vegetables and cause<br />them to take on an off-color. You can stop<br />enzyme activity by blanching vegetables (a brief heat<br />treatment) before freezing them.<br />•Freezer burn affects foods that haven't been<br />wrapped carefully enough. If exposed surfaces<br />on the food come in contact with the dry air of the<br />freezer, moisture Is lost, and dry, tough surfaces<br />develop. You can control freezer burn by using<br />moisture vaporproof packaging materials that are<br />airtight when sealed.<br />•Large ice crystals occur when food isn't frozen<br />quickly enough. Quick-freezing means storing<br />foods at O^F or even subzero temperatures. If foods<br />freeze too slowly, moisture from the cells in the<br />food fibers forms ice crystals between the fibers,<br />and the product loses liquid and may darken.<br />Quick-freezing at zero temperatures locks the<br />cells in the food fiber in their proper places.<br />• Oxidation is a chemical change that occurs when<br />frozen foods are exposed to oxygen. The oxygen<br />reacts chemically with other substances In the foods<br />to create changes that affect the quality of that<br />food. To prevent loss of quality due to oxidation, fill<br />and seal your freezer containers correctly and<br />carefully.<br /> <br />BASIC FREEZING EQUIPMENT<br />Except for the freezer and proper packaging<br />materials, your kitchen is probably already supplied<br />with most of the other pots, pans, and utensils<br />you'll need for home freezing. This section is a guide<br />to the tools and materials necessary for proper<br />freezing of vegetables. And always remember that —<br />no matter how good your equipment — it must be<br />spotlessly clean and sanitary while you work, to<br />prevent bacterial contamination.<br />Freezer containers<br />Preserving food by freezing is based on the<br />principle that extreme cold (0°F) halts the activity of<br />microorganisms, enzymes, oxidation, and other<br />changes that cause food spoilage. When preserving<br />foods by the heat treatment method of canning,<br />containers must be hermetically sealed. Although<br />that's not necessary for frozen storage, the<br />packages you use must be airtight, as well as<br />moisture/vaporproof, odorless, tasteless, and<br />greaseproof.<br />The best package size for you depends on your<br />freezer and your family. Pack food in containers that<br />will take care of your crew for one meal. You can<br />plan on two servings to a pint container; three or four<br />servings from a quart-size. It's quicker to thaw two<br />single pint containers than one large container.<br />There are two kinds of freezer containers suitable<br />for freezing foods at home — rigid containers and<br />flexible bags or wrappers. Some delicate<br />vegetables like asparagus or broccoli might be<br />damaged if packaged immediately after blanching.<br />To protect them, these vegetables are tray frozen<br />briefly before being packed in freezer containers.<br />Rigid containers. Rigid containers are best for<br />vegetables or foods that are liquid or don't have a<br />distinct shape. Rigid containers include plastic<br />freezer containers with tight-fitting lids or<br />can-or-freeze jars with wide mouths and<br />tight-fitting lids. Square or rectangular containers<br />use freezer space more efficiently than round<br />containers or those with flared sides or raised<br />bottoms. Freezer containers can be reused. Wash<br />them and their lids in hot suds; then rinse, drain,<br />and cool.<br />Can-or-freeze jars come in three sizes: 1/2 pint, 1<br />pint, and 11/2 pints. Plastic freezer boxes come in<br />1-pint, 11/2-pint, 1-quart, and 2-quart sizes.<br />Freezer bags and pouches. Bags made from<br />polyethylene or heavy-duty plastic or the new boilable<br />pouches that can be heat-sealed are also good for<br />freezing vegetables. Liquid foods are safest in plastic<br />bags that are then placed in protective cardboard<br />boxes. Although bags aren't always easy to stack,<br />they're great for tray-frozen vegetables and bulky<br />or odd-shaped items.<br />Plastic freezer bags come in many sizes: 1 pint,<br />11/2 pints, 1 quart, 2 quarts, 1 gallon, and 2 gallons<br />you close these bags by pressing out the air, twisting<br />the top and doubling it over, then wrapping the<br />top several times with a twist tie.<br />Other packaging materials. Never use empty,<br />plastic-coated milk cartons or cottage cheese or ice<br />cream containers for freezing, since these aren't<br />airtight enough to be reused as freezer containers.<br />Lightweight plastic wrap, butcher paper, and waxed<br />paper aren't tough enough to protect food in the<br />freezer, either. Freezer wrap — specially laminated or<br />coated freezer paper, heavy-duty plastic wrap, or<br />heavy-duty aluminum foil — is seldom used for<br />freezing vegetables. Reserve it for meats, fish,<br />game, casseroles, and cakes.<br />The freezer<br />In this book, all references to a freezer mean a<br />separate appliance for freezing only. The ice-cube<br />section of a refrigerator is good for very short-term<br />storage only, and "short-term" means days, not<br />weeks or months. The separate freezing<br />compartment of a refrigerator can hold food for<br />weeks; a side-by-side freezer section can hold food<br />for a few months. But, for long-term storage at 0°F,<br />a separate household freezer is still your<br />best bet.<br />Three types of freezers. There are three types of<br />home freezers from which to choose. Upright freezers<br />range in size from 6 to 22 cubic feet and may have 3<br />to 7 shelves. Chest freezers run from 6 to 32 cubic feet.<br />Refrigerator-freezer combinations range in size<br />from 2 to 16 cubic feet of freezer space. Freezers with<br />the frostless feature save you the work of annual<br />defrosting, and keep frost from building up on food<br />packages. (Frostless freezers should be cleaned<br />annually.)<br />The freezer size and type you buy will depend on<br />your needs and available space. A chest freezer<br />usually costs less to buy, and to run, but an upright<br />may fit into your home more easily. Most folks agree<br />that it's easier to find and remove foods from an<br />upright freezer, too. In a combination model, the<br />freezer is separated from the refrigerator section,<br />having a separate door, either at the top, bottom, or<br />side of the refrigerator. Check your space and your<br />budget to decide which type is best for you.<br />Plan on 6 cubic feet of freezer space per person<br />in your family. Then, if you can manage it, buy a<br />freezer bigger than that. Once you get used to<br />having a freezer, you'll have no trouble filling it.<br />Whichever freezer type you choose, place it in a<br />cool, dry, and well-ventilated location. Before you<br />start shopping, scout out a good location in your<br />home, measure it, and check your doorway<br />measurements to be sure the freezer you buy will fit<br />through them.<br />Adjusting freezer temperature. Keep track of your<br />freezer's temperature with a refrigerator-freezer<br />thermometer. Put it toward the front of the storage<br />area, fairly high up in the load of food. Leave it<br />overnight — without opening the freezer — before<br />you check it for the first time. If the thermometer<br />reads above 0°F, adjust the freezer's temperature<br />control to a lower setting. Wait another day and<br />check the thermometer again to see if you adjusted<br />the temperature correctly. When you've got the<br />temperature just right, check the thermometer once a<br />day. But, if your freezer has an automatic defrost,<br />don't take a reading during the defrost cycle — it<br />won't be an accurate reflection of normal freezer<br />temperature.<br />Managing your freezer. For the most efficient use<br />of your freezer, you must be organized. Think of your<br />freezer as a warehouse or a food depository. You<br />need to keep track of what's inside, when it went in,<br />and when it should come out. "First in, first out" is<br />the byword for the best in flavor and appearance in<br />frozen food. The food is still safe to eat after 12<br />months, but may not be at the peak of its quality. As a<br />rule of thumb, rotate your entire stock about every<br />six months, or freeze only enough vegetables to last<br />until the next growing season.<br />By grouping like with like in your freezer, your<br />inventory will be more organized and your searching<br />simplified. One shelf or section can keep<br />vegetables, another fruits, another cooked foods or<br />main dishes. Devise an inventory form to help you<br />keep track of where each category of food is. You<br />might put the chart on a clipboard hung on the<br />freezer door handle or nearby. Then note what goes<br />in, out, how much, and when. Don't forget to label<br />each and every package clearly — in writing or<br />symbols someone besides yourself can read!<br />Legible labels and good packing in the freezer make<br />inventory and food selection easy.<br />As you use your frozen food, keep a running<br />check on your methods and packaging. If you notice<br />that a particular bag, container, or sealing method<br />isn't doing the job, make a mental note of it and try<br />another procedure or packaging next time.<br />Caring for your freezer. Take care of your freezer<br />according to the manufacturer's directions. By<br />keeping the freezer defrosted, free of ice, and<br />clean, it'll work better and cost you less to operate. A<br />full or almost-full freezer is cheaper to run than an<br />empty or almost-empty one. The higher the<br />turnover — the more you use and replace frozen<br />foods — the less your freezer "warehouse" costs per<br />item.<br />If your freezer needs an annual or semi-annual<br />defrost, do it while the weather is cold, preferably<br />before you start planning your garden. During a<br />defrosting in cold weather, not only can the food wait<br />outside (in well-insulated boxes or coolers), but<br />you can take a thorough inventory and then determine<br />how much to plant in spring. If you have lots of<br />green beans left in March, that's a clue that supply is<br />exceeding demand. Put up less the coming year and<br />fill that freezer space with something else.<br />To defrost your freezer, follow manufacturer's<br />directions. If you don't have directions, remove food<br />to a cold place — outdoors in a cooler, if the<br />Weather is very cold or placed in a neighbor's freezer,<br />or a locker. Unplug or turn off the freezer, and put<br />in a pan or two of hot water or a blowing fan to help<br />hurry the melting. DON'T use a hair dryer or other<br />heating appliance, because the heat could melt or<br />warp some of the materials on the inside of the<br />freezer. As the ice loosens, scrape it off with a plastic<br />windshield scraper or other similar tool. When all<br />the ice is gone, wash the inside of the freezer with a<br />solution of three tablespoons baking soda<br />dissolved in a quart of warm water. Wipe dry, turn the<br />freezer on, and put the food back in. Clean frostless<br />freezers with a baking soda solution annually.<br />If your freezer develops an odor, put a piece or<br />two of charcoal on a paper towel and set them in the<br />freezer a few days.<br />What to do when the freezer goes out. if your<br />freezer quits or the power goes out, there are several<br />steps you can take to protect your frozen foods.<br />First, set the freezer temperature at the lowest setting,<br />then shut the freezer and DON'T OPEN IT UNLESS<br />ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY. If kept closed, a full<br />freezer will keep food frozen for 15 to 20 hours and<br />food will stay below40°F for up to 48 hours. A half-full<br />freezer may keep foods frozen for just under a day.<br />If the freezer will be off for longer, dry ice could<br />save the day, if you act quickly. (It's a good idea to<br />locate a source of dry ice in advance and keep the<br />name and number handy for just such an emergency.)<br />A 25-pound chunk of dry ice, carefully handled with<br />gloves and placed on a piece of heavy cardboard on<br />top of the packages of food, should hold a half-full<br />freezer (10 cubic feet) for two to three days; if the<br />freezer is full, it will carry you over for three to four<br />days. (Use two-and-a-half pounds of dry ice for each<br />cubic foot.) Be sure the room is well-ventilated<br />when you're working with dry ice.<br />If dry ice is unavailable, pack up the food and use<br />a locker or a neighbor's freezer.<br />If the food's temperature rises above 40°F —<br />ordinary refrigerator temperature — check it over<br />carefully and immediately cook it completely. It's<br />always better to use thawed foods immediately. If<br />you do refreeze thawed foods, use them as soon as<br />possible. If the food shows any signs of spoilage —<br />color or texture change, slipperiness, or off-odor<br />— and has been over 40°F, don't take any<br />chances — toss it out. A freezer thermometer is an<br />excellent guide to freezer safety. If you don't have a<br />thermometer, feel the food and take a guess. Anything<br />that's still frozen solid, and still has ice crystals<br />throughout, is safe to refreeze or use if you're quick<br />about it.<br />The blancher<br />Vegetables are precooked slightly before freezing<br />in order to arrest the chemical changes that are caused<br />by enzyme activity. This brief heat treatment is<br />called blanching, and you'll need a blancher to do it<br />properly. A blancher is a large pot, with a cover and<br />a perforated insert or basket insert for lifting<br />vegetables out of the boiling water. You can buy<br />one in the housewares section of most stores, or you<br />can make your own from a large (6- to8-quart)<br />pot with a cover and something (a colander, sieve,<br />deep frying basket, or cheesecloth bag) to lift the<br />vegetables from the boiling water.<br />When you aren't using the blancher for freezing<br />vegetables, it won't gather dust. It can also be used as a<br />spaghetti cooker, steamer, or even a deep-fat fryer.<br />Other basic equipment<br />Besides the freezer and blancher, the basic<br />equipment for freezing consists of whatever kitchen<br />implements you'll need to prepare the food for<br />packaging. Remember that it's essential to keep<br />equipment, work area, and hands clean.<br />To freeze vegetables successfully, you'll need:<br />Rigid freezer containers with airtight lids for<br />liquid foods: plastic freezer containers;<br />freezer cans or jars with wide mouths<br />Bags: plastic storage bags; heavy-duty plastic<br />bags; or boilable pouches<br />String, rubber bands, pipe cleaners, or twist<br />ties to fasten freezer bags<br />Shallow tray, cookie sheet, or jelly-roll pan for<br />tray freezing<br />Additional heavy-duty plastic wrap or heavy-<br />duty aluminum foil<br />Sharp paring knife<br />Chopping knife<br />Colander, sieve, strainer, or paper towels<br />Stiff vegetable scrubbing brush<br />Teakettle for extra boiling water<br />Ricer, food mill, or blender for mashing or<br />pureeing<br />Freezer tape to seal wrapped foods and to<br />make labels<br />Grease pencil or felt-tip marker or<br />pressure-sensitive labels for labeling<br />packages<br />BASIC INGREDIENTS<br />Choose vegetables that are tender, ripe but just<br />barely ready to eat, and just as fresh as possible.<br />Slightly under-mature vegetables are better for<br />freezing than those that are past their prime. For peak<br />flavor, rush vegetables from the garden to the<br />freezer within two hours. If you can't freeze<br />vegetables within that time limit, cool the<br />vegetables quickly in ice water, drain well, and keep<br />refrigerated until ready to prepare for freezing.<br />Ice. Since cooling is an important part of<br />preparing vegetables for freezing, you need plenty of<br />Ice at hand to keep the cooling water really cold.<br />Estimate one pound of ice for each pound of<br />vegetables you're going to freeze. Keep a good<br />store of ice in reserve for your home freezing heeds by<br />filling heavy-duty plastic bags with ice cubes, or<br />freezing water in empty milk cartons. Keep adding to<br />your stored ice from time to time, and you won't be<br />caught short in the midst of a big freezing job.<br />Butter and seasonings. Most vegetables are frozen<br />without any flavoring or seasoning added. However, if<br />you want to freeze pouched vegetables in butter<br />sauce, we suggest a combination of butter, salt, and<br />herbs (oregano, basil, savory, chervil, tarragon,<br />thyme, sage, or marjoram).<br />BASIC FREEZING TECHNIQUES<br />Although freezing food is one of the easiest<br />methods for putting food by, that doesn't mean<br />there's nothing to it. If you approach the project<br />carefully and scientifically, you'll be able to get the<br />best frozen food possible and to use energy wisely.<br />Most vegetables take well to freezing, and, when<br />you serve them at a later date, they'll be as close to<br />fresh as any preserving method can guarantee. In<br />fact, some vegetables shouldn't really be stored by any<br />other method, since freezing has proven to be the<br />best method for preserving them. These include<br />broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, ,<br />eggplant, mushrooms, parsnips, edible-pod peas,<br />pumpkins, rutabagas, and winter squash. The only<br />vegetables that don't freeze well are lettuce and other<br />fresh greens for salads, and watery vegetables like<br />radishes and cucumbers.<br />Other than those, almost anything can be frozen.<br />When you aren't sure whether you'll like a certain<br />vegetable frozen, try a sample batch of just a few<br />packages, bags, or containers. Freeze for a couple o1<br />weeks, then taste. If you hate it, not much has been<br />lost.<br />It's a good idea to check with your local<br />Cooperative Extension Service Office for advice on<br />the best vegetables to plant for freezing.<br />Knowledgeable produce people, either in the<br />supermarket or at a stand, can be excellent sources<br />of information, too.<br />Selecting the vegetables<br />Rule number one is to select the highest-quality<br />food possible. The vegetables you choose should be<br />tender, fresh, and ripe enough to be eaten right<br />away. NEVER use vegetables that have become<br />overripe either before or after harvesting.<br />As with any preserving method, you must clean<br />vegetables carefully before freezing. Wash, scrub,<br />rinse, and drain them just as if you were going to eat<br />and serve them right away.<br />Blanching<br />Blanching is a brief heat treatment given to<br />vegetables before they're packaged and frozen. Its<br />purpose is to stop the action of enzymes, which can<br />destroy the fresh flavor of vegetables and cause<br />off-colors. If you want to successfully freeze<br />vegetables, it's generally necessary to blanch them<br />before freezing. This simple technique also helps<br />seal in vitamins, brightens the color of vegetables to<br />be frozen, and shrinks them slightly to make<br />packing easier. When freezing herbs or vegetables<br />such as green onions or hot peppers, which are to<br />be used for flavoring only, blanching isn't necessary.<br />Follow blanching times given in the freezing<br />recipes precisely. Blanching for too short a time is<br />worse than not blanching at all — enzyme action<br />will be stimulated instead of stopped. And, if blanched<br />for too long a time, your vegetables will cook,<br />losing vitamins, minerals, flavor, and color.<br />Use one gallon of water per pound of vegetables,<br />or two gallons for leafy greens. Blanching water must<br />be boiling when you lower the vegetables into it.<br />Fill the blancher with vegetables and lower it into<br />boiling water; start timing as soon as the vegetables<br />have gone into the boiling water. You may keep the<br />blancher covered during the blanching period or<br />keep the heat on high and stir frequently. If you live at<br />5,000 feet or more above sea level, blanch one<br />minute longer than the times specified in each recipe.<br />You can also blanch vegetables in a microwave<br />oven. Follow the directions in the manufacturer's<br />instruction book.<br />When blanching a large quantity of vegetables,<br />start with only the amount that can be blanched and<br />cooled in a 15-minute period, and put the rest in the<br />refrigerator. Package, label, and freeze each blanched<br />group before starting on the next. You can use the<br />same blanching water for several batches of<br />vegetables, adding additional boiling water from a<br />teakettle to replace water lost through evaporation. If<br />you wish, change the water when it becomes<br />cloudy. Keep a second pot or large teakettle boiling,<br />so you won't be delayed when the time comes to<br />change the blanching water.<br />Cooling<br />After vegetables have been precooked the exact<br />amount of time, remove them immediately from the<br />boiling water and cool them. This is crucial for<br />keeping the heating process from continuing past the<br />proper period for each vegetable or food. Transfer<br />the vegetables quickly from the blancher to the ice<br />water. The kitchen sink is a good spot for holding<br />ice water to cool vegetables, but if you want it free for<br />other uses, put the ice water in a plastic dishpan or<br />other large, clean container.<br />Be sure to add new ice to the Ice water frequently,<br />so it stays as cold as possible. You'll need plenty of ice<br />on hand to keep the cooling water really cold. Plan<br />on one pound of ice for every pound of vegetables<br />you're going to freeze. To have a ready supply when<br />you need it, you'll have to stock up in advance.<br />Packing and sealing<br />The secret to successful freezer packaging is to seal<br />the air out and keep it out. Immediately after<br />blanching and cooling, pack vegetables loosely in<br />proper containers. Plastic freezer bags and boxes or<br />can-and-freeze jars are all excellent. Freezer<br />containers must be airtight, moisture/vaporproof,<br />odorless, tasteless, and greaseproof.<br />Head space. Since food expands as it freezes, you<br />must allow room — or head space — for this<br />expansion. Otherwise the lids will pop off, bags will<br />burst, and you'll have wasted food, time, and money.<br />Foods that are dry need no head space. Food that's<br />packed in liquid or is mostly liquid needs 1/4 inch of<br />head space for pints, 1/2 inch for quarts. If you pack<br />foods in containers with narrow mouths, the food<br />expands upward in the container even more,<br />requiring^ inch of head space for pints and iy2 inches<br />for quarts. We suggest you stick to wide-mouth<br />containers. The recipes in this book give you head<br />space needs for each particular food for wide-<br />mouth containers only.<br />Sealing. How you seal food for the freezer is just<br />as important as how you package it. After wiping the<br />mouths of your freezer containers with a clean,<br />damp cloth, seal rigid containers by following the<br />manufacturer's instructions (if there are any), or by<br />snapping, screwing, or fitting the lid tightly on the<br />container. If the lid doesn't seem tight, seal it with<br />freezer tape.<br />Seal bags or boilable pouches with a heat-sealing<br />appliance; follow the instructions that come with the<br />heat sealer. Or seal bags by pressing out the air,<br />then twisting the bag close to the food. Fold the<br />twisted section over and fasten it with a rubber<br />band, pipe cleaner, or twist tie. To get air out of an<br />odd-shaped bag, lower the filled bag into a sink full<br />of water and let the water press the air out. Twist the<br />bag top, lift it out, double the twisted area<br />backward, and fasten.<br />broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, whole- *<br />kernel corn, kohlrabi, peas, sweet or hot peppers,<br />prepared potatoes, rutabagas, and summer<br />squash. The recipes that follow indicate if tray freezing<br />is recommended.<br />Quick-freezing<br />Put your sealed freezer packages in the coldest spot<br />in your freezer, which should be set at 0°F. Place the<br />containers in a single layer, leaving a little space<br />between each package for heat to escape — or follow<br />any specific freezing directions given by the<br />manufacturer. Be sure to set the freezer temperature<br />control to the lowest setting several hours before<br />you'll be preparing food for freezing.<br />Look back to the use-and-care book that came<br />with your freezer to locate the coldest sections. If you<br />have an upright freezer, the shelves are the coldest<br />places; in a chest freezer, the coldest places are near<br />the walls. In a combination refrigerator-freezer, the<br />shelves inside the freezer—not the door shelves —<br />are the coldest places.<br />After arranging packages in a single layer, shut<br />the freezer and leave it alone for 24 hours. When that<br />time has elapsed, the food should be frozen solid.<br />Stack it up and move it away from the coldest part to<br />Labeling. A good freezer label should tell what<br />food is in the package, the amount of food or number<br />of servings, and when it went into the freezer.<br />Better yet, it should tell how the food was packed, and<br />when, for example, "Sugar Pack Strawberries —<br />June, 1976." You might want to include an<br />"expiration" or "use-by" date. Frozen main dishes,<br />sauces packed in boilable pouches, and other more<br />complex items call for a label with description,<br />number of servings, perhaps even heating and<br />thawing instructions.<br />Select labeling materials that will last. A grease<br />pencil or felt tip marker may write directly on the<br />container. Freezer tape makes a quick label, as do<br />pressure-sensitive labels from a stationery store. Try<br />to print legibly and use standard abbreviations.<br />Tray freezing. This technique is used with more<br />delicate vegetables — asparagus for example — to<br />keep them from being damaged during packaging.<br />Since individual stalks are frozen separately first, tray<br />freezing allows you to remove serving portions<br />from the pouch when you need them. To tray freeze,<br />blanch the vegetables, cool them in ice water, drain<br />well, and then spread in a single layer on a cookie<br />sheet, jelly-roll pan, or special tray. Freeze until just<br />solid — usually about an hour. As soon as the<br />vegetables are frozen solid, transfer them to<br />containers, bags, or pouches. Seal the containers and<br />store them in the freezer.<br />The tray freezing technique Is used with<br />asparagus, green beans, lima beans, soybeans.<br />another area in the freezer for storage. Then you<br />can add another batch to be frozen.<br />Your freezer can only freeze a limited amount of<br />food at a time, usually two to three pounds of food for<br />each cubic foot of freezer space. Don't try to freeze<br />any more than that or the food will freeze too slowly<br />and quality will be lowered. The amount of food<br />your freezer can freeze at once helps you determine<br />how much food to prepare for the freezer on any<br />particular day. If you have more food to be frozen than<br />your freezer can take, either refrigerate packages<br />for a day or so (not much longer), or cart it all to a<br />locker to be frozen, then transfer it to your home<br />freezer. Always try to keep a cold spot free to quickly<br />freeze additional food.<br />When you're done freezing food In quantity,<br />reset the control to the setting that will maintain 0°F.<br />Serving frozen vegetables<br />Most frozen vegetables should be cooked without<br />thawing. Corn-on-the-cob is a major exception; it<br />must be thawed completely before cooking.<br />Greens should be partially thawed in order to separate<br />the individual leaves before cooking. Vegetables<br />fully cooked before freezing should also be partially<br />thawed before heating. Once they're thawed, use<br />your vegetables as quickly as possible. Food that's<br />been frozen spoils more quickly than fresh food.<br />Cooking frozen vegetables. For best results, cook<br />frozen vegetables just as you would fresh ones — but<br />cook them for a shorter period, since blanching<br />shortens cooking times. Prepare only the amount of<br />vegetables you'll consume at one meal, and use as<br />little cooking water as possible.<br />For each pint of frozen vegetables, heat 1/4 to 1/2<br />cup water to boiling in a small or medium saucepan.<br />Add the vegetables and keep them over high heat until<br />the water returns to a boil. Break vegetables into<br />individual pieces with a fork as they heat. When the<br />water boils again, cover the pan, reduce the heat,<br />and simmer just until the vegetables are tender. The<br />recipes in this book give specific postfreezing<br />cooking times for each vegetable. Begin timing when<br />the cooking water returns to a boil. When crisp-<br />tender, add butter or margarine, salt, pepper, or other<br />seasonings to taste. Serve vegetables immediately<br />after cooking, so they won't lose nutrients.<br />For tray-frozen vegetables, just remove the<br />amount you need from the freezer. Increase cooking<br />water to a little more than 1/2 cup if you plan to serve<br />more than 2 cups of vegetables. Cook as above.<br />For pouched vegetables, follow the cooking<br />directions that come In the heat-sealer's instruction<br />book.<br />Butter sauce for pouched vegetables. For each 1 to<br />11/2 cups vegetables in small boilable pouches, add 2<br />tablespoons water, 1 tablespoon butter, 1/4 to 1/2<br />teaspoon salt, and a dash oregano, basil, savory,<br />chervil, tarragon, thyme, sage, marjoram, or other<br />herbs appropriate to your vegetable. Seal, label, and<br />freeze. Heat as the manufacturer directs.<br />Soups, casseroles, sauces, gravies, dips, and<br />other mixtures need only be heated to serving<br />temperatures. Baked goods such as zucchini bread<br />or carrot bread can be served just after thawing.<br />Rules for safe freezing<br />For clean and safe-to-eat foods, always follow the<br />freezing recipe directions exactly, use the containers<br />and equipment called for, and keep in mind the<br />following Do's and Don'ts:<br />DO<br />•Work in a clean kitchen with clean floors, counter<br />tops, cabinets and range, and clean equipment.<br />•Keep utensils that handle raw meat and poultry<br />scrupulously clean. That means scrubbing,<br />washing, and rinsing knives and cutting boards<br />between each type of cutting or chopping task.<br />•Work with clean food. Wash, scrub, and rinse<br />vegetables in several waters, lift food out of<br />the water to drain, and don't let water drain off over<br />food.<br />•Work with clean dishcloths and towels, clean<br />hands, and clean clothes.<br />•Wash your hands each time you touch something<br />other than food, such as your hair, your face, the<br />phone, a child, or a pet.<br />•Get out all the necessary equipment. Wash it and<br />ready all ingredients before you start to follow<br />recipe directions, so there'll be no delays and no<br />chance for food to spoil.<br />•Remember to protect your hands when working<br />with hot foods. Use hot pads and tongs.<br />•Be extra cautious with large pots or kettles of<br />boiling water or food. Don't move them, but keep<br />them on the range and work there.<br />•Avoid any sudden changes in temperatures when<br />working with can-or-freeze jars. Putting a hot jar<br />on a counter or in a cold draft could cause it to break.<br />•Always read and follow manufacturer's directions<br />for special equipment or appliances.<br />•Use the very best, most perfect food for freezing.<br />Spending time and money to freeze less than the<br />best is a waste.<br />•Blanch all vegetables before freezing. Blanching<br />destroys enzymes that can cause chemical<br />changes in foods, and is an essential step.<br />•Use moisture/vaporproof containers and seal<br />properly, following recipe directions exactly.<br />Poor packaging can cause freezer burn, off-flavors,<br />and less-than-the-best foods.<br />•Freeze foods quickly to prevent large ice crystals<br />from forming. Follow the directions for quick-<br />freezing.<br />•Buy a freezer thermometer and check it regularly.<br />It should read 0°F at all times — any higher<br />temperature and you're shortening the freezer life<br />of the food.<br />•Keep an inventory of your frozen vegetables, so<br />you can use them within the best part of their<br />freezer life. Most vegetables will maintain quality for<br />a year. Vegetables that have been fully cooked<br />before freezing should be stored for a much shorter<br />time — no more than a month.<br />•Cook and serve vegetables as each recipe directs.<br />Vegetables are best cooked directly from the<br />frozen state, in a very small amount of water and just<br />until tender.<br />•Put your freezer in a convenient, cool, dry, well-<br />ventilated location and clean and/or defrost it<br />once a year.<br />DON'T<br />•Don't use your hands when a kitchen tool will do<br />the job. Keep fingers out of food if at all<br />possible.<br />•Don't try shortcuts or substitutions or time-saving<br />gimmicks. There's only one correct way to<br />prepare food for freezing, and the techniques and<br />recipes that follow are based on it.<br />•Don't cook or prepare food for preserving when<br />you're sick.<br />•Don't prepare food if you have sores on your<br />hands, unless you wear rubber gloves.<br />BASIC FREEZING STEPS<br />By now you can see that preparing vegetables for<br />the freezer isn't too different from preparing them for<br />dinner. However, you must always follow the<br />freezing recipes exactly. The recipes in the next<br />section give you specific instructions for each<br />vegetable, but here is a summary of the basic steps:<br />1.Check your freezer's size and estimate how<br />much food you can freeze in a 24-hour period<br />(3 pounds of food for each cubic foot of space),<br />then check the recipe for the vegetable you want<br />to freeze to see how much to pick for a single<br />preparation session.<br />2.Select tender, young, fresh vegetables that<br />are unblemished.<br />3.Wash vegetables well in plenty of cold water,<br />scrubbing with a brush whenever necessary. Lift<br />the vegetables out of the water to drain. Don't<br />let them stand in water any longer than<br />necessary, because they lose nutrients. Sort<br />by size and handle like sizes together for even<br />heating and cooling.<br />4.Put 1 gallon of water (2 gallons for greens) in<br />the blancher; cover, and place It over high heat.<br />5.Prepare the sink or dishpan full of ice cubes<br />and ice water.<br />6.Cut or prepare the vegetables, about 1 pound<br />or 4 cups at a time, as the recipe directs.<br />7.Put 1 pound of prepared vegetables in the<br />blancher's Insert and lower it into rapidly boiling<br />water. Keep the heat high. Cover and begin<br />timing immediately.<br />8.When the time is up, remove the cover, lift the<br />blancher's insert up out of the blancher for a few<br />seconds to drain, then immediately put the<br />insert of vegetables into ice water.<br />9.Keep vegetables in the ice water for about the<br />same length of time as they were in the boiling<br />water, or until cold. Stirring will help cool the<br />vegetables.<br />10.Lift the vegetables from the ice water and<br />drain them well in a colander, sieve, or on paper<br />towels.<br />11. Pack into containers, bags, or freeze on trays.<br />12.Label each package with contents, number of<br />servings, and date frozen. You might also wish to<br />list an expiration date.<br />13.Freeze, following the directions for quick-<br />freezing, or any special manufacturer's<br />directions for your freezer.<br />14.Most vegetables will keep for 12 months<br />at O°F.<br />Drying is probably the oldest method of food<br />preservation. Though canned and frozen foods<br />have taken over the major role once played by dried<br />foods, drying is still cheaper and easier by<br />comparison. Some other advantages of dried foods<br />are that they take up less storage space and will keep<br />well for a long time — up to 12 months — if<br />prepared and stored properly. Unlike frozen foods,<br />they are not dependent on a power source. Though<br />you may find canned and frozen vegetables are closer<br />in taste and appearance to fresh food, you'll like<br />having a stock of dried vegetables on hand to add<br />variety and special flavor to meals.<br />STOPPING THE SPOILERS<br />Drying preserves vegetables by removing<br />moisture, thus cutting off the water supply that would<br />nourish food spoilers like bacteria, yeasts, and<br />molds. The moisture content drops so low that<br />spoilage organisms can't grow.<br />Although there's a definite technique to drying<br />vegetables, it isn't quite as precise as the procedures<br />used for freezing or canning. Unless you'll be using<br />an electric food dryer, you'll have to use trial and error<br />to find the best way to maintain the proper oven<br />temperature throughout the drying process and to<br />provide good ventilation so moisture from the food<br />can escape. Drying times are given in the recipes for<br />the individual vegetables, but these times are only<br />approximate. Every oven is different, and drying times<br />also depend on how many vegetables you're drying<br />at once, how thinly they've been sliced, and how<br />steady you've kept the heat. So you'll have to<br />experiment at first with drying times. Experience is the<br />best teacher when it comes to judging when your<br />vegetables are dry enough to keep the spoilers from<br />contaminating them.<br />Vegetables for drying<br />There are a great many vegetables you can dry at<br />home for use in perking up your salads, soups, stews,<br />and casseroles. Good vegetables to dry include<br />green beans, corn, peas, peppers, okra, onions,<br />mushrooms, tomatoes, and summer squash.<br />Herbs also drywell. For more information on drying<br />herbs, see "How to Store and Use Herbs," later in<br />this book.<br />Although many vegetables drywell, some<br />vegetables should be preserved by other methods for<br />best results. For example, lettuce, cucumbers, and<br />radishes don't drywell because of their high moisture<br />content. Asparagus and broccoli are better frozen<br />to retain their flavor and texture. And if you've got the<br />storage space, you may find it more practical to<br />store fresh carrots, turnips, parsnips, potatoes,<br />pumpkins, rutabagas, and winter squash in cold<br />storage where they'll keep for several months without<br />any special preserving treatment.<br />FOOD DRYING METHODS<br />The sun, of course, Is the food dryer our ancestors<br />used. If you live where Old Sol shines long, you too<br />can dry fruits and vegetables outdoors. But those in<br />less sunny regions will want a little help from a kitchen<br />oven (gas, electric, convection, or microwave)<br />or one of the new electric dryers or<br />dehydrators. You can also make your own box<br />dryer.<br />Oven drying is faster than using an electric dryer<br />or dehydrator, but the electric dryers can handle<br />much larger food loads than any of the ovens. Oven<br />drying is best for small-scale preserving, since the<br />ordinary kitchen model will hold no more than four<br />to six pounds of food at one time. If you've got an<br />extra-big vegetable garden and expect to dry food<br />in quantity, you may want to investigate the new<br />electric dryers or dehydrators, available in some<br />stores and through seed catalogs. Several of the small<br />convection ovens now on the market also have<br />special racks available for drying vegetables. When<br />using an electric dryer, or a convection or<br />microwave oven for drying vegetables, always read<br />and follow the manufacturer's directions.<br />Oven drying<br />Oven drying may be the easiest way for you to dry<br />food, because it eliminates the need for special<br />equipment. If you've never tried dried vegetables<br />before, why not do up a small batch and sample the<br />taste and texture?<br />Gas and electric ovens. Preheat your gas or electric<br />oven to 140°F for drying vegetables; you'll need an<br />oven thermometer that registers as low as 100°F in<br />order to keep this temperature constant throughout<br />the many hours of the drying process. Since ovens<br />will vary, you'll probably have to experiment until you<br />learn what works best with yours. For example, the<br />pilot light on some gas stoves may provide just enough<br />heat, or the light bulb in the oven may keep it warm<br />enough for drying vegetables. Some electric ovens<br />have a "low" or "warm" setting that may provide<br />the right temperature for drying.<br />You must keep the oven door open slightly<br />during drying, so moist air can escape. Use a rolled<br />newspaper, wood block, hot pad, or other similar<br />item to prop open the oven door about one inch for an<br />electric oven and four to six inches for a gas oven.<br />Sometimes it also helps to place an electric fan set on<br />"low" in front of the oven door to keep air<br />circulating. Don't use a fan for a gas oven with a pilot<br />light, though; it can blow out the pilot.<br />You'll be able to read the oven thermometer<br />easily if you put it in the middle of the top tray of<br />vegetables, take a reading after the first 10 minutes,<br />and, if necessary, make adjustments in the door<br />opening or the temperature control. After^ that,<br />check the oven temperature every 30 minutes during<br />the drying process to be sure it remains constant at<br />140°F.<br />To keep air circulating around the food, your<br />drying trays should be one to two inches smaller all<br />around than the interior of your oven. If you want to<br />add more trays, place blocks of wood at the corners of<br />the oven racks and stack the trays at least one-anda-<br />half inches apart. You can dry up to four trays at once<br />in a conventional oven, but remember that a big<br />load takes longer to dry than a smaller one. Don't use<br />the top position of the oven rack in an electric oven<br />for drying, because food on the top tray will dry too<br />quickly.<br />Since the temperature varies inside the oven, it's<br />important to shift your vegetable drying trays every<br />half-hour. Rotate the trays from front to back, and<br />shift them from top to bottom. Numbering the trays<br />will help you keep track of the rotation order. You'll<br />also need to stir the vegetables every 30 minutes, to<br />be sure the pieces are drying evenly.<br />Convection ovens. To dry vegetables in a<br />convection oven, arrange them on the dehydrating<br />racks provided, and place the racks in a cold oven.<br />Set the temperature at 150°F for vegetables, 100°F for<br />herbs. The air should feel warm, not hot. Keep an<br />oven thermometer inside the oven, so you can keep<br />track of the temperature. Prop the oven door open<br />one to one-and-a-half inches to allow moisture to<br />evaporate. Set the oven timer to the "stay on"<br />position. Or, if your oven doesn't have a "stay on"<br />option, set it for maximum time possible, then reset<br />It during drying, if necessary. Drying times in a<br />convection oven are usually shorter, so check<br />foods for doneness at the lower range of times given in<br />the recipes. Rotate the racks and stir the vegetables<br />as you would using a conventional oven.<br />Microwave ovens. To dry foods in a microwave<br />oven, follow the directions that come with your<br />appliance. Usually, you arrange the prepared<br />vegetables in a single, even layer on paper towels,<br />cover them with more paper towels, and then dry<br />the food at a reduced power setting. If you have a<br />microwave roasting rack, arrange the vegetables on<br />It before drying. Stir the vegetables and replace the<br />paper towels with fresh ones periodically. Exact<br />drying times can vary widely, depending on the<br />wattage and efficiency of your oven, the food itself,<br />and the humidity, so you'll need to check frequently<br />and keep a record of best drying times for<br />reference.<br />Food dryers<br />Both commercial and homemade food dryers<br />provide automatically controlled heat and ventilation.<br />You can buy the new electric dryers or dehydrators<br />in many hardware, housewares, farm supply, and<br />health food stores. Prices range from $25 to $100,<br />depending on the size of the appliance and other<br />special features. Or you can make your own drying<br />box, following the directions given below.<br />Electric dryers or dehydrators. These are<br />lightweight metal boxes with drawer racks for drying<br />foods, which will hold up to 14 pounds of fresh<br />vegetables. If you'll be doing a great deal of home<br />drying, look into an electric dryer, because drying<br />large quantities of vegetables could tie up your<br />kitchen oven for days at a time. Although electric<br />dryers use less electricity for drying than would an<br />electric oven for the same amount of vegetables,<br />electric dryers run at lower temperatures and drying<br />times are a bit longer.<br />When using an electric dryer or dehydrator,<br />always follow the manufacturer's directions for drying<br />foods.<br />Homemade drying box. A simple-to-make drying<br />box can be constructed from a cardboard box, as in<br />the instructions that follow. Or you may invent<br />some other alternatives. For example, your radiators<br />may send out enough heat to dry foods in winter, or<br />perhaps your attic in the summer is hot and dry<br />enough. Never use space heaters for drying<br />vegetables, though — space heaters stir up dust and<br />dirt, which contaminate the food.<br />How to make a drying box. A hardware or discount<br />store should have everything you need to make this<br />simple dryer:<br />• Either a metal cookie sheet with sides or a jelly-<br />roll pan is needed to hold the food.<br />• An empty cardboard box (that has the same top<br />dimensions as the cookie sheet) forms the drying<br />box. The sheet should just fit on top of the box, or<br />the rims of the sides should rest on the edges of<br />the open-topped box.<br />• A box of heavy-duty or extra-wide aluminum foil<br />is used to line the box.<br />• A small can of black paint is used to paint the<br />bottom of the cookie sheet; buy a spray can or a<br />small brush.<br />• A 60-watt light bulb and socket attached to a cord<br />and plug provide the heat.<br />Line the inside of the box with foil, shiny side up.<br />Cut a tiny notch in one corner for the cord to run out.<br />Set the light fixture in the center, resting it on a<br />crumpled piece of foil. Paint the bottom of the cookie<br />sheet black and let it dry.<br />Prepare the vegetables according to the recipe.<br />Spread them in a single, even layer on the black-<br />bottomed cookie sheet. Then put the sheet in place<br />on top of the box. Plug in the light bulb to preheat the<br />box and dry until the food is done according to the<br />recipe. Each recipe specifies how to tell when food is<br />sufficiently dry. If you're drying more than one<br />sheet of food you II have to make more than one<br />drying box. Don't prepare more food than you can<br />dry at one time.<br />BASIC DRYING EQUIPMENT<br />Unless you decide to buy an electric dryer or<br />dehydrator, you've probably already got everything<br />necessary for home drying vegetables. In addition<br />to an oven or a box food dryer, you'll need:<br />• A scale to weigh food before and after drying.<br />• An oven thermometer that will read as low as<br />100°F for maintaining proper oven temperature.<br />• Sharp stainless steel knives that won't discolor<br />the vegetables, for thin-slicing, paring, or cutting<br />the food in half.<br />• A cutting board for chopping and slicing. Be sure<br />to scrub the board thoroughly before and after use.<br />• Baking or cookie sheets for use as drying trays.<br />Unless you're making a box food dryer, cookie<br />sheets without raised edges are best, since they<br />allow hot air to circulate around all sides of the<br />vegetables. (For microwave or convection oven<br />drying, you'll need a special rack.) Baking or<br />cookie sheets used for drying should be at least one<br />to two inches smaller all around than the inside of<br />your oven, so air can circulate.<br />• A blancher for pretreatment of most vegetables.<br />Use a ready-made blancher; or make one using a<br />deep pot with a cover, and a colander or gasket that<br />will fit down inside the pot. For steam blanching,<br />you'll need a rack or steamer basket.<br />• A long, flexible spatula for stirring the vegetable<br />pieces to insure even drying.<br />•Airtight storage containers, with tight-fitting lids,<br />that are also molsture/vaporproof. Use glass<br />canning or other jars, coffee cans lined with plastic<br />bags, freezer containers, or refrigerator-ware.<br />You can also use double plastic bags; close them<br />tightly with string, rubber bands, or twist ties.<br />• An electric fan to circulate the air in front of your<br />oven, if necessary.<br />BASIC INGREDIENTS<br />Choose perfect vegetables that are tender, mature<br />(but not woody), and very, very fresh. Vegetables<br />must be prepared and dried immediately after<br />harvesting, or they'll lose flavor and quality. Every<br />minute from harvesting to the drying tray<br />counts — so hurry. Never use produce with bad spots,<br />and harvest only the amount of vegetables you can<br />dry at one session.<br />Since vegetables must be chilled quickly after<br />blanching, you'll need ice at hand to keep the cooling<br />water really cold. Keep a reserve of ice in the freezer<br />and you won't run short. One way is to start filling<br />heavy-duty plastic bags with Ice cubes a few days<br />before you'll be home drying; or rinse out empty milk •<br />cartons, then fill them with water and freeze.<br />The kitchen sink is a favorite spot for holding ice<br />water to chill vegetables, but if you want to keep it free<br />for other uses, a plastic dishpan or other large,<br />clean container also works very well.<br />BASIC DRYING TECHNIQUES<br />Although the techniques for drying vegetables<br />aren't as precise as those for freezing or canning,<br />there's definitely a right way to go about it. As with<br />all preserving methods, you must always begin with<br />the freshest and highest-quality vegetables to<br />insure good results. Cleanliness and sanitation when<br />handling and preparing the food are also crucial.<br />And, though drying vegetables isn't difficult to do, it<br />demands plenty of careful attention. The vegetables<br />must be stirred, the temperature checked,<br />and tray positions changed about every half hour.<br />That means you must be at home during the whole<br />time it takes to dry your vegetables.<br />Speed is of the essence when preparing foods to<br />dry. For best results, vegetables should be blanched,<br />cooled, and blotted dry within a very short time of<br />harvesting. And you must never interrupt the drying<br />process once it's begun. You can't cool partly dried<br />food and then start it up again later, because there's a<br />chance bacteria, molds, and yeasts will find a home<br />in it. Always schedule your home drying for a day<br />when you're certain your work won't be<br />interrupted.<br />Cleaning and cutting<br />Harvest only as much food as you can dry at one<br />time. Using a kitchen oven, that's about four to six<br />pounds; an electric dryer or dehydrator can handle<br />up to 14 pounds of fresh produce. Wash and drain the<br />vegetables, then cut and prepare as the recipe<br />directs. Depending on the size of the vegetables and<br />the dryer, that could mean slicing, grating, cutting,<br />or simply breaking the food into pieces so it will dry<br />evenly on all sides. Remember that thin pieces dry<br />faster than thick ones. If you have a choice between<br />French-cutting and crosscutting green beans,<br />remember that the French-cut beans will dry faster.<br />Blanching<br />Nearly all vegetables must be blanched before<br />drying. Blanching—a brief heat treatment—stops<br />the action of enzymes, those catalysts for chemical<br />change present in all foods. If certain enzymes aren't<br />deactivated before vegetables are dried, the flavor<br />and color of the food will be destroyed. The drying<br />process alone isn't enough to stop enzyme activity.<br />Although blanching can also help seal in<br />nutrients, some other water-soluble nutrients are<br />leached out into the cooking water. You may want<br />to steam blanch your vegetables; it takes a bit longer,<br />but won't lead to as great a loss of nutrients.<br />Always follow the blanching times given in the<br />recipes exactly. Overblanching will result in the loss of<br />vitamins and minerals; underblanching won't do<br />the job of stopping enzyme action. Either way, you'll<br />end up with an inferior product.<br />Boiling water blanching. Heat one gallon of water<br />to boiling in a blancher. Put no more than one pound<br />or four cups of prepared vegetables at a time into<br />the blancher's insert, colander, or strainer, and<br />carefully lower it into boiling water for the time<br />given in the recipe.<br />Steam blanching. Pour enough water into the<br />blancher to cover the bottom, but not touch the<br />insert. Heat to boiling. Arrange the prepared<br />vegetables in a single layer in the blancher's insert;<br />put them in the blancher over boiling water, cover<br />tightly, and steam for the time given in the recipe. You<br />can use any large pot or kettle for steam blanching<br />by putting a rack about three inches above the bottom<br />to hold the vegetables in the steam and up out of<br />the boiling water. You may also wish to put the<br />vegetables in a cheesecloth bag to keep the pieces<br />together during blanching.<br />Chilling<br />You must always chill blanched vegetables before<br />drying them, to be certain the cooking process has<br />stopped. After removing the vegetables from the<br />blancher, immerse the colander or steamer rack full of<br />vegetables in a sink full of ice water or a dishpan full<br />of ice water. The vegetables should be chilled for the<br />same amount of time the recipe gives for blanching<br />in boiling water. Drain well, then blot with paper<br />towels.<br />Preparing to dry<br />Spread the blanched and drained vegetable pieces<br />in a single, even layer on the drying tray. (You can dry<br />more than one vegetable at the same time, but<br />strong-smelling vegetables such as onions, cabbage,<br />and carrots should be dried separately.) Put the<br />trays in the oven or electric dryer, leaving at least<br />one to two inches between the trays for air<br />circulation.<br />Maintaining proper drying temperature<br />Vegetables must be dried at low, even<br />temperatures — just enough heat to dry the pieces<br />without cooking them. The proper temperature for<br />drying in a conventional oven is 140°F, 1S0°F for<br />convection ovens. Follow the manufacturer's<br />directions for microwave ovens and all other<br />appliances. Maintaining the right temperature<br />steadily, with some air circulation, is the trick to<br />successful drying. Electric dryers and dehydrators<br />automatically maintain the right temperature. For<br />oven drying or when using a homemade box dryer,<br />check your oven thermometer every half hour. (To<br />insure even drying, you must also stir the<br />vegetables every 30 minutes or so, shift the trays from<br />top to bottom, and rotate the trays from front to<br />back.)<br />Although rapid drying is important, too rapid<br />drying in an oven will result in the outer surface of the<br />food hardening before the moisture inside has<br />evaporated (case hardening). You can prevent case<br />hardening by keeping a constant watch on the oven<br />temperature and doing whatever is needed to<br />maintain the heat at 140°F.<br />Scorching. Each vegetable has its own critical<br />temperature beyond which a scorched taste will<br />develop. Although there's not much danger of<br />scorching at the start of the drying process, vegetables<br />can scorch easily during the last couple of hours.<br />Even slight scorching will ruin the flavor and affect the<br />nutritive value of dried foods, so be extravigilant<br />about maintaining the proper temperature toward the<br />end of the drying process.<br />Ventilation. When vegetables are drying, the<br />moisture they contain escapes by evaporating into the<br />surrounding air. If the air around the food is<br />trapped, it will quickly reach a saturation point.<br />Trapped, saturated air won't be able to hold any<br />additional moisture — and drying won't take place.<br />For this reason, ventilation in and around your oven<br />is as important as keeping the temperature constant.<br />Electric dryers or dehydrators automatically<br />provide proper ventilation. With oven drying or when<br />using a homemade box dryer, you'll need to leave<br />the oven door slightly ajar — and possibly use an<br />electric fan to insure good air circulation.<br />In addition, the cookie sheets or trays you use for<br />drying should be at least one to two inches smaller all<br />around than the inside of your oven so air can<br />circulate around the front, sides, and back of the trays.<br />There should also be at least three inches of air<br />space at the top of the oven.<br />Testing for doneness<br />In most forms of food preserving, processing times<br />are exact. You know just how long it takes before the<br />food is done. However, the times for drying vary<br />considerably — from four hours to more than<br />12 — depending on the kind of vegetable, how<br />thinly it's sliced, how much food is on each tray, and<br />how much is being dried in the oven or dryer at one<br />time. The recipes that follow give you the drying<br />time range for each vegetable, but the only way you<br />can be sure the food is sufficiently dry is to test<br />sample pieces.<br />When you think the vegetables are dry, remove a<br />few pieces from the tray, then return the tray to the<br />oven. Let the sample pieces cool before testing —<br />even food that's perfectly dry will feel soft and<br />moist while still warm. When the pieces are cool,<br />follow the test for doneness given for the vegetable<br />in each recipe. A rule of thumb is that properly dried<br />vegetables are hard and brittle to the touch.<br />Exceptions to the rule are mushrooms, sweet<br />peppers, and squash, which will feel pliable and<br />leathery when dry. Some food experts recommend<br />the hammer test: if sufficiently dry, the vegetable<br />pieces will shatter when struck with a hammer.<br />Conditioning<br />Foods don't always dry evenly, nor does each piece<br />or slice dry at exactly the same rate as all the others. To<br />be sure all the food in a single batch is evenly dried,<br />you'll have to condition it. Put the cooled, dried<br />vegetables into a large, deep crock, dishpan, jar, or<br />coffee can; then store it in a warm, dry room for a<br />week to 10 days. Cover the jar or can lightly with<br />cheesecloth to keep out insects, and stir the dried<br />pieces at least once a day so that the moisture from<br />any underdried pieces will be absorbed by the<br />overdried pieces.<br />After conditioning, give the vegetables one final<br />treatment to get rid of any insects or insect eggs. Either<br />put the dried vegetables in the freezer for a few<br />hours, or heat them on a cookie sheet in a closed oven<br />at 175°F for 15 minutes. Be sure to let the food cool<br />completely again before packaging.<br />HOW TO STORE DRIED VEGETABLES<br />Keeping out air and moisture is the secret to good<br />dried foods. To maintain the quality and safety of your<br />dried vegetables, you'll need to take special care<br />when packaging and storing them.<br />Even when you're using an oven or an electric<br />dehydrator, you'll have to watch out for the effects of<br />humidity on drying foods. Choose a bright, sunny<br />day for your home drying—that way you'll keep the<br />dried vegetables from picking up moisture from the<br />surrounding air after they leave the oven or dryer.<br />Packaging<br />Dried foods are vulnerable to contamination by<br />insects as soon as they're removed from the oven or<br />electric dryer. To protect them, you must package<br />dried vegetables in airtight, moisture/vaporproof<br />containers just as soon as they're completely dry.<br />Canning jars that have been rinsed out with boiling<br />water and dried, of course, make good containers,<br />as do coffee cans and plastic freezer bags. When using<br />a coffee can, first wrap the vegetable pieces in a<br />plastic bag to keep the metal of the can from affecting<br />the flavor of the food.<br />Pint-size containers or small plastic bags are best<br />for packaging dried vegetables. Try to pack the food<br />tightly but without crushing it. If you're using<br />plastic bags, force out as much air as possible before<br />closing them. By using small bags, several may be<br />packed into a larger jar or coffee can — that way you<br />can use small portions as needed, without exposing<br />the whole container to possible contamination each<br />time it's opened.<br />Storing foods safely<br />Store your packaged, dried vegetables in a cool,<br />dark, dry place. The cooler the temperature of the<br />storage area, the longer foods will retain their high<br />quality. However, dried foods can't be stored<br />indefinitely, since they do lose vitamins, flavor,<br />color, and aroma during storage. Your pantry or<br />kitchen cupboards may provide good storage, if the<br />area remains cool. A dry basement can also be a good<br />spot. Dried vegetables can be stored in the freezer,<br />too — but why take up valuable freezer space with<br />foods that will keep at cool, room temperature?<br />Many dried vegetables will keep up to 12 months.<br />If properly stored. Carrots, onions, and cabbage will<br />spoil more quickly, so use them up within six<br />months.<br />To be on the safe side, check the packages of<br />dried vegetables from time to time. If you find mold,<br />the food is no longer safe and should be discarded<br />immediately. If you find a little moisture, but no<br />spoilage, heat the dried vegetables for 15 minutes<br />in a 175°F oven; then cool and repackage. If you find<br />much moisture, the vegetables must be put<br />through the entire drying process again. Remember,<br />you must always cool dried foods thoroughly<br />before packaging; if packaged while still warm, they'll<br />sweat and may mold.<br />HOW TO USE DRIED VEGETABLES<br />To use dried vegetables, you have to reverse the<br />drying or dehydration process to rehydrate them. This<br />is accomplished in water or other liquid. If you soak<br />dried vegetables before using them, they'll cook<br />much faster. To rehydrate, add two cups of water for<br />each cup of dried vegetables; boiling water will<br />shorten the soaking time. After soaking, the<br />vegetables should regain nearly the same size as when<br />fresh.<br />Rehydrated vegetables are best used in soups,<br />stews, salads, casseroles, and other combination<br />dishes. See the recipes that follow for some serving<br />suggestions.<br />BASIC DRYING STEPS<br />The recipes that follow give you specific directions<br />for drying each vegetable. To prevent problems, keep<br />these basic steps in mind when home drying foods.<br />Remember that only the highest quality vegetables are<br />suitable for drying.<br />1.Select vegetables that are freshly picked,<br />tender, and just mature enough to eat.<br />2.Set out all ingredients and equipment. Wash<br />and dry all utensils, counter tops, working<br />surfaces, and your hands.<br />3.Preheat your conventional oven to 140°F, or<br />follow the manufacturer's directions for your<br />electric dryer or dehydrator, or a convection<br />or microwave oven.<br />4.Wash the vegetables thoroughly, scrubbing<br />with a brush if necessary, but handling them<br />gently to avoid bruising.<br />5.Cut, slice, or grate the food according to the<br />recipe directions.<br />6.Blanch the vegetables in small amounts at a<br />time, according to recipe directions. For steam<br />blanching, fill the blancher with just enough<br />water to cover the bottom, but not to touch the<br />basket or rack. For blanching by boiling, fill<br />the blancher about half full, then begin<br />heating. After blanching, chill the vegetable<br />pieces in ice water for the same amount of time<br />the recipe gives for blanching in boiling water.<br />7.Drain the chilled vegetables well, blot them<br />dry, then spread them in a single, even layer on<br />cookie sheets or on the racks of an electric<br />dryer. Don't crowd the vegetables on the sheet<br />and don't prepare more vegetables than you<br />can dry at one time.<br />8.For conventional oven drying, put an oven<br />thermometer toward the back of the tray. Put the<br />tray on the top shelf in a preheated oven, and<br />maintain an oven temperature of 140°F.<br />9.For box drying, turn on the light bulb for 10 to<br />15 minutes to preheat the box. Place the tray on<br />top of the box.<br />10.For convection oven drying, place the racks<br />full of food into a cold oven. Set the temperature<br />at 150°F. Open the oven door 1 to VA inches.<br />Set the oven timer to the "stay on" position, or<br />for as long as it will run, resetting as needed.<br />11. For drying in an electric dryer or dehydrator.<br />or a microwave or convection oven, follow the<br />manufacturer's directions.<br />12.For both oven and box drying, check the trays<br />often, and stir the vegetables on the trays,<br />moving the outside pieces to the center. For<br />oven drying, turn the tray from front to back<br />and — if drying more than 1 tray —<br />change the trays from shelf to shelf for even<br />drying. Check the trays more frequently during<br />the last few hours of drying to prevent '<br />scorching. For microwave oven drying, follow<br />the manufacturer's directions. Use the lower<br />end of drying times given in the recipes as a<br />guide for doneness when you're using a<br />conventional, microwave, or convection oven.<br />The upper range of drying times is a guide to<br />doneness when you're using an electric dryer or<br />dehydrator.<br />13.To test for doneness, remove sample pieces,<br />cool, and then follow the recipe directions for<br />testing for doneness. When the vegetables<br />are completely dry, as described in each recipe,<br />remove them from the oven or box and let<br />stand until cooled. Test the vegetables again<br />after cooling. If the food still shows some<br />moisture, return it to the oven or dryer until<br />completely dried.<br />14.Turn the dried vegetables into a deep<br />container, cover lightly with cheesecloth, and<br />condition, stirring once a day for a week to 10<br />days.<br />15.Pack into vapor/moistureproof, airtight<br />containers or double plastic bags and store in a<br />cool, dark, dry place for up to 12 months.<br />16.To rehydrate, put the vegetables in a pan or<br />bowl, and add just enough boiling water to<br />cover — usually 2 cups of water per cup of<br />dried vegetables, anywhere from 1/2 hour to<br />several hours, depending on the vegetable.<br />17.Cook vegetables in their soaking water until<br />tender, or drain and add to recipes just as you<br />would fresh vegetables.<br />Sprouting is one of the easiest ways to grow<br />fresh vegetables for eatings both in and out of<br />season. While mung bean sprouts have long been<br />familiar in Chinese cooking, alfalfa and other sprouts<br />have become equally well-known in recent years.<br />More and more ingenious and health-conscious<br />cooks are adding a variety of sprouts to salads,<br />sandwiches, soups, and other dishes — for both the<br />crunch and the nutrition. Sprouts are bursting with<br />nutrients, and certain vitamins even increase when<br />seeds are sprouted — up to 600 percent.<br />And sprouts are economical, too — from a single<br />pound of seeds, you can produce from six to eight<br />pounds of sprouts. All you have to do is add a little<br />moisture and a little warmth to the seeds, set them in a<br />dark place, then sit back and watch your garden<br />grow in just a few day's time.<br />It's fun to have several jars of sprouts going at<br />once, so you'll always have variety as well as a good<br />supply. For example, put a couple of tablespoons of<br />alfalfa seeds in one jar, a cup of wheat or rye berries in<br />another, and a half cup or so of lentils in a third jar.<br />Alfalfa takes about five days to reach just the right<br />stage for eating, but your wheat sprouts will be<br />ready by the end of the second day. It's a fast, easy,<br />and very rewarding way to enjoy vegetables — both<br />the ones you grow yourself and the ones you don't.<br />BASIC SPROUTING EQUIPMENT<br />All you need to sprout seeds is a jar, some<br />cheesecloth, plastic mesh, or plastic screen to cover<br />the jar, and a rubber band to hold it in place. But<br />you can also sprout seeds on a tray, on damp towels, in<br />a clay flowerpot saucer, or in a thin layer of soil. You<br />may also want to try the ready-made sprouters that are<br />available in large department stores and health<br />food stores. For example, you can buy mesh trays or<br />sprouting lids made of plastic mesh that fit on<br />standard one-quart canning jars. It's a good idea to try<br />various methods to find ones that are most<br />convenient and work best for you.<br />BASIC INGREDIENTS<br />You can sprout all kinds of seeds, legumes, and<br />grains. Try wheat, rye, alfalfa, mung beans, chick peas,<br />soybeans, pumpkin seeds, sesame seeds, or any of<br />the other sprouting seeds, grains, and vegetables<br />suggested in "Directions for Sprouting," later in<br />this chapter. Only one thing is essential — when<br />buying seeds for sprouting, always check to be sure<br />you're getting live, untreated seed. Seeds that are<br />intended to grow crops are specially treated to<br />make them resistant to insects and plant<br />diseases — and you shouldn't eat sprouts started<br />from these chemically treated seeds.<br />You also can't sprout seeds that have been heat-<br />treated, because even relatively low temperatures kill<br />the seeds, leaving them edible but no longer<br />capable of growth. For this reason, if you're growing<br />beans, peas, or other vegetables for sprouting, be<br />sure to use the drying method recommended for this<br />purpose. Seeds dried by blanching, chilling, and<br />heating will not sprout.<br />The only other ingredient you'll need for<br />sprouting is water. Some experts recommend that you<br />let city water (which may be high in chlorine) sit for<br />a day or two before you use it, in order to let the<br />chlorine dissipate into the air. When sprouting<br />seeds, use lukewarm or room-temperature water,<br />rather than cold or hot.<br />BASIC SPROUTING TECHNIQUES<br />Sprouting can be done in a jar, in a tray, on a towel,<br />in a clay saucer, or in a thin layer of soil. Each method<br />works best for certain kinds of seeds, as you'll see<br />from the following descriptions.<br />Although the basic steps are quite similar from<br />one method to the next, the times and temperatures<br />for sprouting will vary due to temperature and<br />humidity variations in your home. That means you've<br />got to check sprouts frequently. After your first<br />couple of batches, you'll have a good idea how long it<br />takes to produce the flavor you prefer in sprouts.<br />Many sprouters also like to save the water drained<br />from sprouts for use in soups or sauces, or for<br />watering houseplants.<br />Jar sprouting<br />This method works best for small seeds, such as<br />alfalfa, clover or radish.<br />1.Rinse the seeds in lukewarm water.<br />2.Put the seeds in a jar, then add 3 times as<br />much water as you have sprouts. Cover with a<br />plastic mesh lid, cheesecloth, or nylon net,<br />then fasten with a rubber band or canning jar-<br />screw band. (You won't need to remove the<br />mesh covering until the sprouts are ready to<br />harvest.) Set aside and soak for the time<br />given in the recipe.<br />3.At the end of the soaking time, drain off the<br />water (through the mesh covering).<br />4.Rinse the seeds with lukewarm water and<br />drain.<br />5.Set the jar in a warm (60°F), dark place, at an<br />angle so that the sprouts can drain.<br />6.Rinse and drain the sprouts twice a day, or as<br />the recipe directs. (In hot, dry weather, rinse<br />them 3 to 4 times a day.) Turn the jar gently as<br />you rinse and drain so that the sprouts won't<br />break off. If the weather or your kitchen is<br />very humid, move the sprouts to a dry place,<br />such as near the stove or wrapped in a towel<br />(to keep out light) near a sunny window. Too<br />much humidity will prevent sprouting.<br />Temperatures above 80°F can also prevent<br />sprouting.<br />7.On about the fourth day, move the jar of<br />sprouts into the sunlight so that chlorophyll can<br />develop and turn the leaves green. Continue<br />to rinse and drain.<br />8.Move the sprouts from the jar to a strainer,<br />and rinse well to remove the hulls, if desired.<br />Hulls can shorten storage life of sprouts, but<br />they also add flavor.<br />9.Use sprouts immediately in salads,<br />sandwiches, or as the recipe suggests. To store,<br />put in plastic bags and refrigerate.<br />10.Wash and dry all equipment and put away for<br />next use.<br />Tray sprouting<br />This method works best for seeds such as mung<br />bean, chia, and lettuce.<br />1.Rinse the seeds in lukewarm water.<br />2.Put the seeds in a jar, then add 3 times as<br />much water as you have sprouts. Cover with a<br />plastic mesh lid, cheesecloth or nylon net,<br />then fasten with a rubber band or canning jar<br />screw band. Set aside and soak for the time<br />given in the recipe.<br />3.At the end of the soaking time, rinse the<br />seeds and spread in a tray. (The tray can be a<br />wooden box with a plastic, nylon, or wire<br />mesh bottom, or a perforated plastic tray.)<br />4.Cover the tray with plastic wrap and then<br />with newspaper or another light-blocking<br />cover. Keep one end of the tray bottom<br />propped up so the sprouts can drain. Set the<br />tray in warm (70°F), dark place.<br />5.Rinse and drain sprouts twice a day. (In hot,<br />dry weather, rinse them 3 or 4 times a day.)<br />Rinse gently (so the sprouts won't break)<br />under a faucet (not full-force), the sprinkler<br />attachment of your sink, or by lowering the<br />tray slightly into a sink of lukewarm water.<br />Cover the tray again after each rinsing.<br />6.On about the fourth day, move the tray of<br />sprouts into sunlight so chlorophyll can<br />develop and turn the leaves green. Continue<br />to rinse and drain.<br />7.Move the sprouts from the tray to a strainer,<br />and rinse well to remove the hulls, if desired.<br />Hulls can shorten storage life of sprouts, but<br />they also add flavor.<br />8.Use sprouts immediately in salads,<br />sandwiches, or as the recipe suggests. To store,<br />put in plastic bags and refrigerate.<br />9.Wash and dry all equipment and put away for<br />next use.<br />Towel sprouting<br />This method works best for larger grains and seeds.<br />1.Soak the seeds in a jar in 3 times as much<br />water as you have seeds for time given in<br />recipe, then rinse and arrange on a damp<br />towel.<br />2.Cover with another damp towel, and wrap in<br />plastic wrap or place inside a plastic bag.<br />3.Set the bag of towels aside, in a warm (70'* F),<br />dark place.<br />4.Dampen the towels daily by misting them<br />with water.<br />5.If the seeds haven't sprouted after 2 days,<br />change the towels to prevent spoilage.<br />6.On about the fourth day, remove the top<br />towel and move the sprouts into the sunlight so<br />that chlorophyll can develop and turn the<br />leaves green. Mist as needed.<br />7.Move the sprouts from the towel to a<br />strainer, and rinse well to remove the hulls, if<br />desired. Hulls can shorten the storage life of<br />sprouts, but they also add flavor.<br />8.Use sprouts immediately in salads,<br />sandwiches, or as the recipe suggests. To store,<br />put in plastic bags and refrigerate.<br />9.Wash and dry all equipment and put away for<br />next use.<br />Clay saucer sprouting<br />This method works best for gelatinous seeds that<br />are difficult to rinse in jars.<br />1.Use a clean, unglazed clay flowerpot saucer.<br />2.Put equal amounts of seeds and water into<br />the saucer.<br />3. Set the saucer in a larger pan and pour water<br />into the pan to within 1/2 inch of top of saucer.<br />4. Cover with a plate and set aside in warm<br />(70°F), dark place.<br />5.Check the seeds daily, misting them if they<br />become dry, or removing the plate cover for a<br />day if they're too wet.<br />6.On about the fourth day, move the sprouts<br />into the sunlight so the leaves turn green.<br />Mist as needed.<br />7.Move the sprouts from the saucer to a<br />strainer, and rinse well to remove the hulls, if<br />desired. Hulls can shorten storage life of<br />sprouts, but they also add flavor.<br />8. Use sprouts immediately in salads,<br />sandwiches, or as the recipe suggests. To store,<br />put in plastic bags and refrigerate.<br />9. Wash and dry all equipment and put away for<br />next use.<br />Soil sprouting<br />This method works best for sprouting tiny greens<br />for salads or for wheat, rye, or triticale grasses.<br />1.Spread a 1-inch layer of equal parts of moist<br />peat moss and top soiI over the bottom of a box.<br />2.Soak the seeds in 3 times as much water as<br />you have seeds and soak for the time given in<br />the recipe; rinse and jar sprout for 16 to 24<br />hours.<br />3.Spread the seeds over the soil in the box.<br />4.Cover with plastic wrap and then newspaper<br />or black plastic (to keep out light).<br />5.When the sprouts are \ inch tall, remove the<br />cover and move them into sunlight so that<br />chlorophyll can develop and turn the leaves<br />green. Water as needed.<br />6.When greens are the desired height — about<br />2 to 3 inches — pull or cut them, wash them<br />well, and use them in salads. To store, put in<br />plastic bag and refrigerate.<br />7. Wash and dry all equipment and put away for<br />next use.<br /><br />DIRECTIONS FOR SPROUTING VEGETABLES<br />Try sprouting just about any seed, grain, or legume<br />for some of the most delicious, nutritious, and<br />economical foods to be found anywhere. Sprouts<br />can be added to many dishes besides salads, soups,<br />and sandwiches. They're delicious baked into<br />whole-grain breads or muffins, blended into juices, or<br />added to granola or yogurt. You can sprinkle them<br />on casseroles and on meat, fish, or fowl dishes of all ^<br />kinds. You can even top sprouts with tomato sauce<br />and eat them like spaghetti.<br />The instructions below will give you some idea of<br />the yield you can expect from sprouting various seeds<br />and grains, but yields can vary considerably,<br />depending on the size of the seeds, the temperature,<br />and the length of the sprouts when you harvest<br />them. Generally, small seeds—like chia — yield about<br />eight times their original bulk in sprouts; large<br />seeds — like corn — yield about three times their<br />original bulk. Experiment with these wonder<br />foods — you'll create some family favorites of your<br />own.<br />Aduki (azuki) or pichi beans<br />Use about 1/2 cup seeds in a 1-quart jar, which will<br />yield about2 cups of sprouts. Soak for 12 hours. Rinse<br />3 to 4 times daily for 3 to 4 days. Harvest when the<br />sprouts are 1/2 to 11/2 inches long. Good in salads or<br />casseroles, or stir-fried.<br />Alfalfa<br />Use about 21/2 tablespoons seeds in a quart jar, or<br />sprout on trays. This will yield about 1 quart of sprouts.<br />The yield will be 11/2 cups for each 1/4 cup sprouted,<br />and the sprouts will be very short — only about 1/8 inch<br />long. Soak for 8 hours. Rinse 2 to 3 times daily for 4<br />to 6 days. Move into sunlight to green, then harvest<br />when the sprouts are 11/2 to 2 inches long. Use in<br />salads, sandwiches, omelets, or as garnish. To use in<br />baked goods, harvest sprouts after just 2 days.<br />Barley<br />Use 1 to 11/2cups seeds in a 1-quart jar, which will<br />yield about 1 quart of sprouts. Soak for 12 hours. Rinse<br />2 to 3 times daily for 2 to 3 days. The sprouts will be<br />the length of the seed. Use in salads, casseroles, and<br />breads.<br />Beans, dry<br />Use 3/4 cup mature beans in a 1-quart jar, which will<br />yield about 1 quart of sprouts. Soak for 14 hours. Rinse<br />3 or 4 times daily for 3 or 4 days. Harvest when<br />sprouts are 1 to 11/2 inches long. Use in casseroles,<br />soups, or dips, or steam them.<br />Beans, mung<br />Use 1/3 cup in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which will<br />yield abouti cup of sprouts. Soak for16 hours. Rinse 3<br />to 4 times daily for 3 to 5 days. Harvest when the<br />sprouts are 1 to 3 inches long. Use in oriental dishes,<br />salads, sandwiches, omelets, or stir-fry.<br />Cabbage<br />Use 3 tablespoons seeds in a 1-quart jar, which will<br />yield about 1 quart of sprouts. Soak for 10 hours. Rinse<br />2 to 3 times daily for 3 to 5 days. Move into sunlight<br />to green, then harvest when the sprouts are 1 to 11/2<br />inches long. Use in salads and sandwiches.<br />Chia<br />Use 1/4, cup seeds in a clay saucer or tray, which will<br />yield about 2 cups of sprouts. There's no need to soak<br />or rinse and drain; just mist the seeds regularly to<br />keep them moist. After 3 to 5 days, move into sunlight<br />to green. Harvest when the sprouts are 1 to 11/2<br />inches long. Use in salads, sandwiches, casseroles,<br />and as a garnish.<br />Chick peas<br />Use 1 cup in a jar, or tray sprout, which will yield<br />about3 cups of sprouts. Soak for 14 hours. Rinse 3 to 4<br />times daily for 3 to 4 days. Harvest when sprouts are<br />1/2 inch long. Use in casseroles, soups, salads,<br />steamed, or as a base for dips.<br />Chinese cabbage<br />Use 1 tablespoon seeds in a 1-quart jar, or tray<br />sprout, which will yield about 2 cups of sprouts. Soak<br />for 8 hours. Rinse 2 to 3 times daily for 4 to 5 days.<br />Move into sunlight to green, then harvest when the<br />sprouts are 1 to 11/2 inches long. Use in salads,<br />sandwiches, and juices.<br />Corn<br />Use 1 cup kernels in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout,<br />which will yield about 3 cups of sprouts. Soak for 20<br />hours. Rinse 3 times daily for 2 to 4 days. Harvest<br />when the sprouts are 1/2 inch long. Use in casseroles,<br />soups, and tortillas, or bake, steam, or stir-fry.<br />Clover<br />Use 1 tablespoon seeds in a 1-quart jar, or tray<br />sprout, which will yield about 2 cups of sprouts. Soak<br />for 8 hours. Rinse 2 to 3 times daily for 4 to 6 days.<br />Move the jar into sunlight to green, then harvest the<br />sprouts when they're 11/2 to 2 inches long. Use in<br />salads, sandwiches, and juices. To use in baked<br />goods, harvest the sprouts after just 2 days.<br />Cress<br />Use 1 tablespoon of seeds in a clay saucer or tray,<br />which will yield about 11/2 cups of sprouts. There's no<br />need to soak or rinse and drain; just mist with water<br />3 times daily for 3 to 5 days. Move into sunlight to<br />green, then harvest when the sprouts are 1 to 11/2<br />inches long. Use as a spice (very peppery flavor), in<br />salads, sandwiches, or baked goods.<br />Dili<br />Use 1/4 cup in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which will<br />yield about2cupsofsprouts. Soak for 8 hours. Rinse 3<br />times daily for 3 to 5 days. Move Into sunlight to<br />green, then harvest when the sprouts are 1 to 11/2<br />inches long. Use in salads, sandwiches,<br />and juices.<br />Fenugreek<br />Use 1/4 cup In a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which will<br />yield about 1 quart of sprouts. Soak for 10 hours. Rinse<br />2 to 3 times dally for 3 to 5 days. Mist with water if<br />tray sprouting, to keep damp. Harvest when 1/2 to 2<br />Inches long. Use in salads and sandwiches.<br />Flax<br />Use 1/4 cup in a clay saucer, or tray sprout, which will<br />yield about 1 cup of sprouts. Without soaking or<br />rinsing the seeds, mist with water 3 times daily for 3<br />to 5 days. Move into sunlight to green, then harvest<br />when the sprouts are 1 to 11/2 inches long. Use in<br />salads or juices.<br />Lentils<br />Use 3/4 cup in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which will<br />yield about 6 cups of sprouts. Soak for 8 to 10 hours.<br />Rinse 2 to 3 times daily for 2 to 3 days. Harvest when<br />the sprouts are 1/4 to 1/2 inch long. Use in salads,<br />sauces, dips, juices, soups, or casseroles.<br />Lettuce<br />Use 3 tablespoons in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout,<br />which will yield about 2 cups of sprouts. Soak for 8<br />hours. Rinse 2 to 3 times daily for 4 to 5 days. Move<br />into sunlight to green. Harvest when the sprouts are 1<br />to 11/2 inches long. Use as a garnish (flavor is<br />strong).<br />Millet<br />Use 11/2 cups in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which<br />will yield about 2 cups of sprouts. Soak seeds for 8<br />hours. Rinse 3 times daily for 4 to 5 days. Harvest<br />when sprouts are 1/4 inch long. Use in salads, soups,<br />baked goods, casseroles, and juices.<br />Mustard<br />Use 3 tablespoons in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout,<br />which will yield about 1 quart of sprouts. Do not soak.<br />Rinse 2 to 3 times daily for 4 to 5 days. Move Into<br />sunlight to green, then harvest when the sprouts are 1<br />to 11/2 inches long. Use in salads, juices, or as<br />garnish.<br />Oats<br />Use 11/2 cups in a 1-quart jar or sprout on towels,<br />which will yield about 2 to 3 cups of sprouts. Soak for 1<br />hour. Rinse once or twice daily for 3 days. The<br />sprouts will be the length of the seed. Use in salads,<br />granola, and baked goods.<br />Peas<br />Use 1/2 cup black-eyed or shelling in a 1-quart jar, or<br />tray sprout, which will yield about 1 cup of sprouts.<br />Soak for 12 hours. Rinse 2 to 3 times daily for 3 days.<br />Harvest when sprouts are 1/4 to 1/2 inch long. Use in<br />salads, soups, omelets, and casseroles.<br />Peanuts<br />Use 11/2 cups in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which<br />will yield about 1 quart of sprouts. Soak for 14 hours.<br />Rinse 2 to 3 times daily for 3 to 4 days. Harvest when<br />sprouts are 1/4 to 1 inch long. Use In soups, steam, or<br />stir-fry.<br />Pumpkin<br />Use 11/2 cups in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which<br />will yield about 3 cups of sprouts. Soak for 10 hours.<br />Rinse twice daily for 2 to 3 days. Harvest when the<br />sprouts are 1 to 11/2 Inches long; pick off hulls and<br />rinse. Use in sauces, dips, and baked goods.<br />Radish<br />Use 3 tablespoons in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout,<br />which will yield about 1 quart of sprouts. Soak for 8<br />hours. Rinse 2 to 3 times daily for 4 to 5 days. Move<br />into sunlight to green, then harvest when the sprouts<br />are 1 to 2 inches long. Use in salads, sandwiches,<br />and juices.<br />Rye<br />Use 1 cup in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which will<br />yield about 2 to 3 cups of sprouts. Soak for 12 hours.<br />Rinse twice daily for 2 to 3 days. Sprouts will be the<br />length of the seeds. Use in granola, salads, baked<br />goods.<br />Sesame<br />Use 1 cup in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which will<br />yield about 2 cups of sprouts. Soak for 8 to 10 hours.<br />Rinse 3 to 4 times daily for 3 days. The sprouts will be<br />the length of the seed. Use in granola, baked goods.<br />Soybeans<br />Use % cup in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout,.which will<br />yield about 1 quart of sprouts. Soak for 12 to 24 hours,<br />changing the soaking water once. Rinse 3 to 4 times<br />daily for 3 to 4 days. Harvest when sprouts are 1/2 to 2<br />inches long. Use in oriental dishes, salads,<br />casseroles, baked goods, or steam.<br />Squash<br />Use 1 cup in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which will<br />yield about 3 cups of sprouts. Soak for 10 hours. Rinse<br />twice dally for 2 or 3 days. Harvest when the sprouts<br />are 1 to 11/2 inches long; pick off hulls and rinse. Use in<br />sauces, dips, and baked goods.<br />Sunflower^ hulled<br />Use 1 cup in a 1-quart jar, which will yield about 3<br />cups of sprouts. Soak for 10 hours. Rinse 2 to 3 times<br />daily for 2 to 5 days. Harvest when the sprouts are 1<br />to 11/2 inches long. Use In salads, sauces, and<br />dips.<br />Triticale<br />Use 1 cup in a 1-quart jar, which will yield about 2 to<br />3 cups of sprouts. Soak for 12 hours. Rinse twice daily<br />for 2 to 3 days. The sprouts will be the length of the<br />seed. Use in granola, salads, soups, and baked<br />goods.<br />Turnip<br />Use 3 tablespoons in a 1-quart jar, which will yield<br />about 1 quart of sprouts. Soak for 12 hours. Rinse<br />twice daily for 3 to 4 days. Move into sunlight to<br />green, then harvest when the sprouts are 1 to 11/2<br />inches long. Use in salads and sandwiches.<br />Wheat<br />Use 1 cup in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout; which will<br />yield about 4 cups of sprouts. Soak for 12 hours. Rinse<br />twice daily for 2 to 3 days. The sprouts will be the<br />length of the seed. Use in granola, salads, soups,<br />baked goods.<br />Herbs are the secret ingredient in many a fine<br />recipe — from the most delicate gourmet dish to<br />the heartiest of folk fare. Yet herbs are also among<br />the easiest vegetables to grow, to use fresh, or to store<br />for the winter. If you live in a mild climate, you can<br />grow herbs year-round in your garden, in window<br />pots, along walkways, or near doorways or patios.<br />And if you live where winters get too cold for outdoor<br />gardening, you can grow little pots of basil or chives<br />indoors, and freeze, dry, or salt the rest of your herb<br />crop. Dried herbs will keep for up to a year;<br />frozen herbs will keep fresh for several months if<br />properly wrapped and stored.<br />Herbs are popular in cooking not only for the way<br />they enhance the flavor of many foods, but for the fact<br />that they add no calories. If you're on a special diet,<br />herbs can add zest to those low-cal or no-salt recipes.<br />For example, when cooking potatoes or rice, add a<br />pinch of rosemary instead of salt to the cooking water<br />to add a special flavor.<br />GROWING HERBS: ROBUST AND FINE<br />Some herbs are used only in food preparation<br />(robust herbs); and others can be eaten raw as well<br />(fine herbs). Among the most popular herbs are<br />basil, chives, dill, garlic, marjoram, oregano, parsley,<br />rosemary, sage, sweet marjoram, and thyme.<br />Grow them where you can enjoy their beauty and<br />fragrance, as well as harvest the leaves at just the<br />peak moment for use in your favorite foods. Detailed<br />information on growing these and other herbs is<br />given in Parts 1 and 2.<br />USING FRESH HERBS<br />You can use fresh herbs throughout the growing<br />season. First, gently remove a few leaves at a time, or<br />pinch or cut off sprigs to be chopped and added to<br />your soups, salads, and sauces. For immediate use,<br />rinse the herbs, pat them dry, and then chop finely.<br />If you can't use fresh herbs at once, wrap them in a<br />damp paper towel, then in plastic wrap or a plastic<br />bag, and refrigerate. Fresh herbs can be kept<br />refrigerated for a few hours or up to a day or two —<br />but no longer than that.<br />Fresh herbs are wonderful in any recipe that calls<br />for herbs. However, if your recipe specifies a dried<br />herb, you can substitute fresh by using three to four<br />times more finely chopped fresh leaves — one<br />teaspoon of fresh herbs is equal to 1/4 teaspoon of<br />dried. Fresh herbs also make beautiful garnishes. Save<br />a perfect sprig to give the finishing touch to<br />vegetables, salads, drinks, fish, meats, casseroles, and<br />sandwiches.<br />HARVESTING HERBS FOR STORAGE<br />Herbs can be frozen, dried, or salted for use during<br />the fall, winter, and spring. Depending on the method<br />you'll be using, you can cut whole stalks, remove<br />just the leaves, or pinch off sprigs for your herbs. The<br />dried seeds of some herbs — anise, caraway,<br />coriander, dill, fennel, and sesame — are also used for<br />flavorings, but most herbs are grown for their<br />leaves.<br />You should harvest herbs to be stored when the<br />flowers of the plant are just beginning to open; this is<br />the moment when flavor is at its peak. Cut the<br />plants on a dry, sunny morning—after the dew has<br />dried, but before the sun gets too hot. The leaves<br />you want are the young, tender, pungent ones<br />growing at the top six inches of the plant. Strip off<br />the tough, lower leaves and remove the flower<br />clusters. Rinse the herbs with cold water to remove<br />dirt and dust, then blot them dry with paper towels.<br />If you're growing herbs for their seeds, harvest<br />the seeds as soon as the heads turn brown, but before<br />they ripen completely and begin to fall off. Harvest<br />the seeds on a warm, dry day, and then dry them, as<br />detailed below. Seeds are dried in their pods,<br />husks, or coverings. You remove these coverings by<br />winnowing — rubbing a few seeds at a time<br />between your palms to loosen the pod or husk, which<br />will then fall away. Herb seeds should not be frozen<br />or salted.<br />HOW TO FREEZE HERBS<br />Freezing is a quick way to preserve herbs that will be ,<br />used in cooked dishes. Since herbs become dark and<br />limp during freezing, they can't be used as<br />garnishes — but their flavor remains just as good as<br />fresh. You can chop herbs before freezing, or<br />freeze sprigs and then just snip them, right from the<br />freezer, into the food you're cooking.<br />Frozen herbs will keep for several months. If you<br />want to store herbs for longer periods, dry them<br />instead.<br />To freeze herbs, follow these step-by-step<br />procedures:<br />1.Have ready a knife or scissors, paper towels,<br />plastic bags, freezer wrap or boilable pouches,<br />cardboard, freezer container or envelope,<br />and labels.<br />2.Pick fresh, perfect herb sprigs or leaves.<br />Wash them well, then drain and pat them dry<br />with paper towels.<br />3.Pack recipe-size amounts in small plastic<br />bags or packets made from plastic wrap, freezer<br />paper or foil, or pack in boilable pouches.<br />Seal well.<br />4.Staple these individual packets to a piece of<br />cardboard, label the cardboard, and then<br />freeze. Or pack several packets in a freezer<br />container, large envelope, or plastic bag. Seal,<br />label, and freeze.<br />5.For bouquet garni: Tie together several<br />sprigs of different herbs — parsley, bay leaf,<br />and thyme, for example — and pack as<br />above. When you're ready to use it, add the<br />whole bouquet to the recipe.<br />HOW TO DRY HERBS<br />Herbs need no pretreatment before drying, just<br />careful selection and gentle harvesting. Always<br />choose the tender, aromatic leaves growing on the<br />upper six inches of the plant. Herbs may be air-dried in<br />paper bags or dried in your kitchen oven. Herbs<br />should never be dried in the sun because direct<br />sunlight destroys their natural aroma.<br />For perfect dried herbs, follow these step-bystep<br />procedures:<br />1.Have ready paper towels, a knife or scissors,<br />string, plastic wrap, cookie sheets, racks or<br />trays and wire mesh or cloth, or brown paper<br />bags.<br />2.For herb leaves, choose herbs that are just<br />about to blossom. Make sure the herbs are<br />tender and well-colored, with perfect leaves<br />and no bugs. Cut off the top two-thirds of the<br />plant. Pick early in the morning, if possible.<br />For herb seeds, choose seeds that are fully<br />developed and mature.<br />3.Wash off any dust or dirt from the leaves.<br />Shake them gently and pat dry with paper<br />towels.<br />4.Dry in bags; on trays; or in a conventional,<br />microwave, or convection oven, as explained<br />below.<br />Bag drying herbs<br />1.Gather 6 to 8 stalks and put them in a<br />large brown paper bag to prevent their<br />exposure to light. Hold the ends of the stalks<br />at the top opening of the bag, then tie the bag's<br />top around the stalks with a string. The<br />leaves mustn't touch the sides of the bag, or<br />they may stick to the paper and dry<br />incompletely. Repeat for desired quantity of<br />herbs.<br />2.Punch a few holes in the bottom and sides of<br />each bag for ventilation, and label each bag.<br />3.Hang the bags by the string from hooks or<br />hangers in an attic, covered porch, or any other<br />warm, dry, well-ventilated spot away from<br />direct sun.<br />4.Check the temperature of the area before<br />and during drying to be sure it doesn't rise<br />above 100°F. Herbs will lose their flavorful<br />oils if air-dried at temperatures above 100°F.<br />5.If you're drying herbs outdoors, be sure to<br />bring them in at night, so they don't pick up<br />moisture from the night air,<br />6.You'll know the herbs are completely dry<br />when the leaves fall from the stalks and can<br />easily be crumbled between your fingers.<br />You can strip the leaves from the stalks to crush<br />or bottle whole, or just leave them in the<br />paper bags until you're ready to use them.<br />7.If the leaves haven't dried evenly, strip them<br />from the stalks and spread them in a single,<br />even layer on a cookie sheet. Dry in a 200°F<br />oven for 30 minutes, or until crumbly.<br />8.Store the dried whole leaves in labeled,<br />airtight containers. In a dark, cool, dry place.<br />Tray drying herbs<br />1.Remove the leaves from the stems of the<br />plant and place them on a cloth-covered rack or<br />mesh screen.<br />2.Place the racks in a warm, dry, well-<br />ventilated room away from direct sun.<br />3.Stir the leaves from time to time to be sure<br />they dry evenly.<br />4.When the leaves crumble easily, they're dry.<br />5.Store the dried whole leaves in labeled,<br />airtight containers, in a dark, cool, dry, place.<br />Drying herbs in a conventional oven<br />1.Remove the leaves from the stalks of the<br />plant, and arrange them in a single, even layer<br />on cookie sheets, racks, or trays. Use drying<br />trays 11/2 to 2 inches smaller all around than the ,<br />inside of your oven, so air can circulate freely<br />around them.<br />2.Set the trays in the oven, with at least V/2<br />inches between the layers of drying trays.<br />3.Dry the leaves in a 120°F oven or In a drying<br />box until the leaves will crumble easily between<br />your fingers. Prop the oven door open<br />slightly for ventilation and to keep the oven<br />temperature from rising too high. The herbs<br />will dry in 2 to 4 hours.<br />4.Store the dried leaves whole in labeled,<br />airtight containers, in a dark, cool, dry, place.<br />Drying herbs in a microwave oven<br />1.Place 3 or 4 stalks between several<br />thicknesses of paper towels on a drying rack or<br />cookie sheet.<br />2.Set the sheet In the oven.<br />3.Dry at medium power for 2 or 3 minutes, or<br />until the leaves crumble easily. If the herbs still<br />aren't dry, return the leaves to the oven at<br />the same heat for an additional 30 seconds.<br />4.Store the dried whole leaves in labeled,<br />airtight containers, in a dark, cool, dry place.<br />Drying herbs in a convection oven<br />1.Remove the leaves from the stalks, and<br />arrange them in a single, even layer on cookie<br />sheets, racks, or trays.<br />2.Set the racks in a cold convection oven.<br />3.Set the oven temperature setting below the<br />"warm" or 150°F setting. Use an oven<br />thermometer to be sure the temperature<br />inside the oven doesn't exceed 100°F.<br />4.Dry the leaves until they are brittle.<br />5.Store the whole leaves in labeled, airtight<br />containers, in a dark, cool, dry place.<br />HOW TO DRY HERB SEEDS<br />Herb seeds can be dried by the same method used<br />to dry leaves. After drying, remove the outer covering<br />from dried seeds. Just rub a few seeds at a time<br />between the palms of your hands, and then shake<br />them gently to let the outer seed covering fall away.<br />Store seeds in labeled, airtight containers in a dark,<br />cool, dry place.<br />STORING DRIED HERBS<br />As soon as the leaves are dry, store herbs whole in<br />labeled, airtight containers in a dark, cool, dry place.<br />Coffee cans lined with a plastic bag or tinted glass<br />containers are best, since they keep out light. Don't<br />crush the leaves until you're ready to use them,<br />because whole herbs hold their flavor the longest.<br />During the first week after drying, check the herbs<br />to be sure they're completely dry. If you notice any<br />moisture at all, dry the leaves a little longer.<br />You can keep dried herbs up to a year, if they're<br />stored properly in a dark, cool, dry place. If your<br />storage area is too warm, the leaves will begin to<br />lose flavor. If the area is too moist, the herbs may cake,<br />change color, or spoil. Always remember to close<br />the containers tightly after each use to prevent the loss<br />of the volatile oils which are what make herbs so<br />flavorful.<br />If you want to verify the freshness of herbs you've<br />been storing for some time, rub a leaf between your<br />palms. If the herb is still potent, strong aroma will<br />be released. If there's little or no fragrance released,<br />the flavor has faded, and you'll need to put up a<br />fresh supply.<br />COOKING WITH DRIED HERBS<br />When using dried herbs, first crush or chop the<br />leaves to release the flavor and aroma. Use herbs<br />singly or combine one particularly strong herb with<br />several other milder ones. You can also make a<br />bouquet garni by tying together or placing in a<br />cheesecloth bag bunches of herbs such as celery<br />leaves, parsley, onion, and thyme. Or, mix three or<br />more herbs to make fine herbs. The most familiar<br />combinations for fine herbs are chervil, chives, and<br />parsley; and basil, sage, and savory.<br />You'll get the most from herbs in cooking if you<br />add them at the right time. For example, when<br />preparing stews or soups that must cook for several<br />hours, add herbs during the last half hour of cooking<br />time. The flavor and aroma of herbs can be lost if<br />they cook too long. In foods that cook quickly, add the<br />herbs immediately.<br />You'll get best results if you add herbs to the<br />liquid portion of your recipe before mixing it with the<br />rest of the ingredients. Moistening the herbs first<br />with a little water, oil, or other suitable liquid and<br />allowing them to stand for 10 minutes will bring out<br />the flavor even more.<br />When substituting dried herbs for fresh in a<br />recipe, use 1/4 amount specified. One teaspoon<br />fresh herbs equals 1/4, teaspoon dried.<br /><br />SALTING HERBS FOR STORAGE<br />You can salt away some herbs to preserve them for<br />future use. Use pure granulated or pickling salt, not<br />iodized table salt. This method is most popular for<br />basil, but it can be used for other herb leaves too.<br />To salt herbs down, follow these step-by-step<br />procedures:<br />1.Have ready pickling salt, paper towels, and<br />jars or other containers with tight-fitting lids,<br />and labels.<br />2.Choose perfect, fresh basil or other herb<br />leaves. Wash and drain, then pat them<br />completely dry with paper towels.<br />3.Pour a layer of salt into the container and<br />arrange a layer of leaves on top.<br />4.Pour in another layer of salt, then add a layer<br />of leaves. Repeat until the container is full,<br />ending with a layer of salt. Press down firmly.<br />5.Cover the container tightly, label, and store<br />it in a dark, cool, dry place. Use salted herbs just<br />as you would fresh herbs, but be sure to<br />rinse thoroughly to remove the salt before<br />adding them to food.<br /><br />SPECIAL TREATS WITH HERBS<br />A little herb goes a long way in cooking, so you'll<br />want to find other uses for the bounty of your herb<br />garden. Herb vinegars, herb teas, herb butters, and<br />herb jellies are easy to make and delicious to use.<br />Herb vinegars<br />Adding sprigs of fresh herbs to vinegar provides<br />wonderful flavor. Pretty bottles of your own herb<br />vinegars make wonderful gifts, too. You can use<br />any herb you like, or any combination you prefer.<br />Tarragon in white wine vinegar, basil and garlic in<br />red wine vinegar, and mint or savory in white or cider<br />vinegar are just a few examples.<br />1.Have ready measuring cups, glass mixing<br />bowl, saucepan, strainer, jars or bottles, and<br />labels.<br />2.Select perfect, fresh herb leaves. (You'll also<br />want perfect sprigs to go in the bottles, but<br />don't harvest these until after you've let the<br />leaves steep in vinegar for a few days.)<br />3.For each pint of herb vinegar, lightly crush<br />about y2 cup of fresh herb leaves in large glass<br />mixing bowl. Add 1 pint white, cider, or wine<br />vinegar. Cover and set aside for 3 to 5 days.<br />4.Now gather as many perfect herb sprigs as<br />you'll have bottles of vinegar. Wash them.<br />5.Wash the bottles well, rinse, and then<br />sterilize them by simmering in water to cover<br />for about 5 minutes.<br />6.Strain the vinegar and discard the herbs.<br />Heat the vinegar to boiling.<br />7.Pour the hot vinegar into hot bottles or jars.<br />Add a sprig of fresh herb to each bottle or jar.<br />8.Close the bottles with corks, lids, or other<br />airtight seals. Label and store in a dark, cool, dry<br />place.<br />Herb teas<br />Fresh herbs have long been favorites for use in<br />infusions, or teas. You can use almost any dried herb<br />you like, but you'll have to test and taste to<br />determine how strong you like it. Mint, rosemary,<br />marjoram, and thyme are favorites for tea, but why<br />not experiment with some others, too? Use about one<br />teaspoon of dried herb (or a combination of herbs)<br />for each teacup (six ounces) of boiling water. Put the<br />herbs directly into the teapot and add the boiling<br />water, or put the herbs in a tea ball. Let steep for five to<br />10 minutes. Don't add milk or cream. Sweeten, if<br />desired, with honey or sugar.<br />Herb butters<br />Herb-flavored butters make marvelous toppings<br />for bread, vegetables, meats, and seafoods. Use anise<br />or oregano butter on your own sweet corn; basil<br />butter on broiled tomato slices; tarragon butter on<br />broiled fish filets; garlic and oregano butter on<br />French bread slices; and marjoram butter on fresh<br />green peas.<br />You can chop or crush fresh or dried herb leaves<br />to cream with softened butter, or mix the leaves and<br />butter together in a blender or food processor. Use<br />about two tablespoons dried or 1/2 cup fresh herbs for<br />each stick 1/2 cup) of butter. Store herb butters<br />tightly covered in the refrigerator. Use in a few days.gandhihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15342771507991122518noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5089391135299206410.post-89372022079587667802008-02-23T00:45:00.000-08:002008-02-23T01:03:25.471-08:00PREPARING YOUR GARDEN FOR THE WINTERThe better the clean-up job you do in fall, the easier<br />it will be to start in on the new growing season in<br />spring. You may be tempted to skip some of these<br />last-minute chores, but they're really worth doing<br />because they can make a big difference to the<br />success of next year's garden. True, they could be put<br />off until spring, but come spring you'll have so<br />much to do in the garden that it'll be a big relief to have<br />some of the work out of the way ahead of time.<br />• It's a good idea to plant what farmers call a green<br />manure or cover crop in the fall as part of your<br />preparation for the following year. This is a crop<br />that you don't intend to harvest. It's there simply to<br />provide protection for the soil underneath, and<br />when you're preparing for your spring planting you<br />dig the whole crop into the soil. A cover crop will<br />keep your precious topsoil from blowing or<br />washing away, and tilling it into the soil in spring<br />will provide valuable organic matter to enrich the<br />texture of the soil. It's not necessary to plant the<br />whole cover crop at one time to cover the entire<br />garden; you can plant in each area of the garden<br />as you harvest. Some of the best green manure or<br />cover crops are rye, clover, oats, soybeans, and<br />vetch. Scatter the seeds over the area you want to<br />plant—if it's a large area a hand spreader will do<br />the job comfortably.<br />• As an alternative to planting a cover crop, you can<br />prepare the soil ahead of time. Tilling your soil in the<br />fall can save you a lot of time and help you get an<br />earlier start in the spring, because the soil is often<br />too wet in early spring to let you use a spade or a<br />rototiller. If you do till your soil in the fall, make sure<br />to cover the soil with mulch to keep it from<br />blowing or washing away.<br />• If you're growing perennial crops in a cold climate,<br />fall is the time to protect them against winter<br />temperatures. Apply a mulch over the whole<br />plant when the soil first freezes, but not before<br />then; if you mulch when the soil is still warm,<br />you'll encourage root rot problems. Remember to<br />remove this mulch as soon as the soil starts to<br />thaw out in the spring. The best materials to use for<br />this mulch are organic materials that will let the<br />plants breathe; straw, hay, leaves, and compost are<br />all suitable. Crops you may need to mulch for<br />winter protection include: artichokes (in some<br />areas); chayotes; rhubarb; and such herbs as<br />chives, garlic, marjoram, mints, oregano, rosemary,<br />sage, tarragon, and thyme.<br />When you're through with these final tasks, you<br />have done the best you can to prepare your garden for<br />winter. It's time to sit back and relax—and if you<br />miss the time in your garden, you can beguile your<br />winter hours by reading seed catalogs and planning<br />the garden you're going to plant come spring.<br />One of the most challenging—and sometimes<br />frustrating — aspects of being a gardener is all<br />the natural forces you have to combat. Even in the<br />unlikely event that you have perfect soil and a<br />marvelous climate, you're still not home and dry;<br />all sorts of pests are In competition with you for your<br />crop. The pest problems you're likely to encounter<br />in your vegetable garden fall Into two categories:<br />insects and the like, of which there are a remarkable<br />variety; and animals, usually the four-legged kind but<br />occasionally two-legged intruders as well.<br />Most gardeners have to contend with insect<br />problems at some time during the growing season,<br />but the problems are not always obvious. It can<br />come as quite a surprise, just when it looks as though<br />all your hard work is paying off and your plants are<br />progressing healthily towards a fine harvest, to find<br />that the pests are at work. You may notice one<br />morning that a couple of healthy young plants have<br />keeled over and died — a pretty sure indication that<br />you've got cutworms working away beneath the soil<br />level. Or you may see tiny holes in the leaves of your<br />eggplant, signaling the activity of the flea beetle.<br />Your plants are subject to diseases, too, and you<br />know you're in trouble when the leaves turn'yellow, or<br />the plants seem stunted and weak, or mildew starts<br />to show up on leaves and stems. Plant diseases spread<br />rapidly and must be curbed as soon as they appear,<br />but this isn't always easy. There are certain measures<br />you can take to forestall disease problems — like<br />planting varieties that have been bred to be disease-<br />resistant, and rotating some crops when it's<br />possible to do so. Beyond that, once a disease attacks<br />a plant, about all you can do is remove the infected<br />plant — among horticulturalists this process is called<br />"culling" — to stop the disease from spreading to<br />neighboring healthy plants. On the whole, pest<br />problems are easier to control than problems<br />caused by plant diseases.<br />CONTROLLING INSECT PESTS<br />To many people anything In the garden that crawls<br />or flies and is smaller than a chipmunk or a sparrow<br />can be classified as an insect. In fact, a lot of the<br />creatures that may bug your vegetable plants are not<br />insects at all — mites, slugs, snails, nematodes,<br />sowbugs, and symphylans among them. Another<br />popular misconception is that insects and similar<br />creatures are harmful or unnecessary and have no<br />place in the garden. Again, it isn't true. While some<br />insects are destructive, many are perfectly harmless. A<br />lot of them are actually important to the healthy<br />development of your garden crop, some because they<br />perform a specific service by keeping down other<br />pests that do harm your crop, and some because<br />they pollinate the plants. When you set out to control<br />harmful pests, it's important to realize that<br />indiscriminate controls may destroy the good as<br />well as the bad; the useful creatures as well as the<br />harmful ones.<br />Controlling the insect pests that attack your<br />vegetable garden can be a challenge; the method you<br />choose for controlling them can also be<br />controversial. Many gardeners rely on chemical<br />insecticides to do away with the enemy that's<br />competing for the crop. Some people, however,<br />object to the use of chemicals because they believe<br />that the chemicals may remain on the plant and harm<br />the person who eats it or that they may harm the<br />environment. These gardeners prefer to rely on<br />organic, or nonchemical, means of control. There<br />may also be times when it's better not to use a<br />chemical control even if you have no personal<br />objection to it — if you catch a caterpillar attack in the<br />early stages, for example, it can be easier to pick off<br />the offenders by hand than to mix up a whole batch of<br />insecticide. This chapter discusses the most<br />effective means of control — both chemical and<br />organic — for the pest problems you're most likely<br />to encounter.<br />CHEMICAL CONTROLS: INSECTICIDES<br />The surest way to control most of the insects and<br />similar creatures that threaten your vegetable crop is<br />by using a chemical insecticide. A word here about<br />terminology: In horticultural language the terms<br />"pesticide" and "insecticide" are not<br />interchangeable. A pesticide is any form of chemical<br />control used in the garden; an insecticide is a<br />specific type of pesticide used to control a specific<br />situation — to kill insects. A herbicide is a different<br />kind of pesticide with a different application — it's<br />used to help control garden weeds. These<br />distinctions are important, because using the wrong<br />one will cause havoc in your garden. For instance, if<br />you use a herbicide instead of an insecticide you'll<br />lose your entire crop for the season. It's also<br />important to keep separate equipment for use with<br />each kind of pesticide.<br />Insecticides are chemical products that are<br />sprayed or dusted on the affected crops. The type you<br />spray on is bought in concentrated form, then<br />diluted for use with a hand sprayer or a spray<br />attachment fitted to the end of your garden hose.<br />Dust-on insecticides are powders that you pump on to<br />the plants. Spraying is preferable because it gives<br />more thorough coverage, and it's easier to treat the<br />undersides as well as the tops of leaves and plants<br />with a spray. You can also apply insecticides directly to<br />the soil to kill insects under the soil surface — this<br />technique is known as applying a "soil drench."<br />Used correctly and responsibly, insecticides are<br />not harmful to humans or other animals. They are<br />toxic, but the toxicity levels are low, and their<br />residual or carryover effect is short — the longest any<br />of the insecticides commonly used in the home<br />garden will remain on the plant is about 14 days.<br />Malathion, for instance, has the same toxicity level<br />as Scotch whiskey and breaks down faster. As to any<br />long-lasting hazards that may be involved —<br />nobody knows if hazards exist or what they might be;<br />we don't know what the long-lasting hazards of any<br />product might be. The choice of an organic or a<br />synthetic pesticide is a matter of personal opinion.<br />If you know all the options you'll be able to make your<br />own choice.<br />Commonly used insecticides<br />The insecticides listed below for use in your home<br />vegetable garden will provide effective control of<br />garden insects with minimum hazard. Remember,<br />though, that most insecticides are poisons and must<br />be handled as such.<br />Diazinon. This is an organic phosphate, and it's an<br />effective insecticide for general use. Diazinon is a<br />contact poison. Its toxicity is low, and it's a good<br />control for underground insects that attack the roots<br />of cabbage family plants, onions, and radishes. You<br />can get it as a wettable powder or in liquid form.<br />Malathion. This is also a phosphate insecticide; it<br />kills sucking insects like aphids. Its effects are not as<br />long-lasting as those of some other insecticides,<br />but it's effective and safe in use. It's available as a dust,<br />a wettable powder, or a liquid.<br />Sevin. This is also known as carbaryl and is<br />another safe material for use in home gardens. It's an<br />effective control for many leaf-eating caterpillars<br />and leafhoppers, and is available as a wettable<br />powder or a dust.<br />Bacillus thuringiensis. This is an organic<br />insecticide. It's a bacterium that is considered<br />harmless to all but insects, and you can buy it under<br />the brand names of Dipel, Thuricide, or Bactur. It<br />controls cabbage worms and other caterpillars and<br />is available in wettable powder or liquid forms. This is<br />the choice of many gardeners who prefer not to use<br />chemical insecticides.<br />Cause and cure: Be sure you've got them right<br />Because an insecticide can't distinguish between<br />friend and foe, it's your responsibility to make sure<br />you're eliminating the pest, not the friendly insect<br />that's out there working for you. Let's say, for<br />instance, that aphids are attacking your cabbage<br />plants, and you use carbaryl (Sevin) to try to get rid of<br />them because you know carbaryl is a relatively safe<br />insecticide with a short residual effect. You've<br />overlooked the fact that carbaryl has to enter the<br />insect's stomach in order to kill it, and since the<br />aphid's mouth is inside the cabbage plant, none of<br />the insecticide is going to enter the insect through the<br />mouth and reach its stomach. Ladybugs, however,<br />love aphids and are most helpful in keeping down<br />their numbers. So when the ladybug eats the aphid,<br />the carbaryl on the aphid's body enters the ladybug's<br />stomach and kills it. Despite the best intentions in<br />the world, you've killed off the useful insect and left<br />the pest unharmed. In fact you've done the pest a<br />favor by killing off its enemy — a ladybug can put<br />away hundreds of aphids in a day.<br />Carbaryl can also be toxic to bees, and bees are<br />important to your garden because they pollinate most<br />fruiting vegetable crops. To avoid killing the bees,<br />spray in the late evening when the flowers are closed.<br />This way you kill the destructive pests but protect<br />the bees.<br />If you use an insecticide you must always be<br />aware also of how long its residual effect is going to<br />last. A residue of insecticide left on the plant when<br />it's harvested is poisonous. The residual effect of an<br />insecticide that you use in your vegetable garden is<br />likely to be fairly short, but the effect may vary from<br />one type of crop to another. And because the effect<br />is not long-lasting, you can't spray as a preventive<br />measure; you have no way of knowing which pests .<br />are going to attack your plants before they're actually<br />on the scene.<br />How to use an insecticide<br />Because research is constantly being done to<br />determine the safety of insecticides and improve their<br />effectiveness, it's difficult to give long-term<br />recommendations about their use. Basic rules,<br />however, always apply: Read the directions and<br />precautions on the label and follow them<br />meticulously, and never make the solution<br />stronger than the label says because you think it'll<br />work better that way. If the product would be more<br />effective in a stronger solution the label would say so.<br />You need to use common sense when working<br />with an insecticide. If there are just a few, visible<br />insects on your plants, it may be a lot easier to<br />remove them by hand than to go through the full<br />routine of applying a chemical remedy. Also,<br />weather conditions limit when you can use a product<br />that has to be sprayed or dusted on the plants —<br />you can't do it on a windy day because you can't<br />control the direction of the application. The wind<br />can take your insecticide over into your neighbor's<br />garden; so you'll both fail to correct your own pest<br />problem, and you'll make your neighbor mad. As the<br />one who's using the pesticide, you are responsible<br />for it.<br />You'll also defeat your own purpose by using an<br />insecticide if rain is expected within 12 to 24 hours.<br />The insecticide must dry on the plant in order to be<br />effective. Whether you use a spray or a dust, make<br />sure that you reach all parts of the plants—you're<br />aiming for a light covering on both the tops and the<br />undersides of all the leaves. Don't give the pests a<br />place to hide; proper coverage is essential if the<br />insecticide is to do its job.<br />The products we suggest are commonly used in<br />the home vegetable garden as we write this. But<br />before you go out to buy one, check with your local<br />Cooperative Extension Service to make sure that these<br />recommendations are still current.<br />If you do decide to use a pesticide to control<br />insects in your vegetable garden, here are some<br />important points to remember:<br />• Read the whole label; observe all the precautions<br />and follow all the directions exactly.<br />• Check the time period that must elapse between<br />application of the insecticide and harvesting the<br />plant, and observe it strictly. Note all restrictions<br />carefully — often products must be applied at a<br />certain stage in the plant's development.<br />• Wear rubber gloves while handling insecticide<br />concentrates; don't smoke while you're handling<br />them, and take care not to breathe the spray or<br />dust.<br />• Sprays usually have to be mixed before each use.<br />Follow the directions, and use only the exact<br />proportions indicated on the label. If it's not used<br />exactly as indicated, an insecticide may be harmful<br />to people, animals, or plants.<br />• Use equipment that you keep specifically for use<br />with insecticides. Don't use equipment that has<br />been used for herbicides.<br />• Do not apply an insecticide near fish ponds, dug<br />wells, or cisterns; do not leave puddles of pesticides<br />on solid surfaces.<br />• Use a spray or dust-type insecticide only when the<br />air is still. Wind will carry the product away from<br />your garden and, possibly, be a nuisance to<br />someone else. Don't spray or dust within 12 to 24<br />hours of an expected rain — the insecticide must<br />dry on the plants to be effective; rain will wash it off.<br />• After using an insecticide, wash your clothes and<br />all exposed parts of the body thoroughly with soap<br />and water.<br />• Store unused material (undiluted) in its original<br />container out of the reach of children, irresponsible<br />adults, or animals — preferably in a locked<br />cabinet or storage area.<br />• Dispose of the empty container carefully. Do not<br />leave it where children or animals can get to it or<br />where it might be recycled for another use.<br />• Wash all treated vegetables carefully before<br />eating them.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />NONCHEMICAL CONTROLS;<br />ORGANIC ALTERNATIVES<br />It's not always necessary to use a chemical<br />insecticide in your vegetable garden even if you have<br />no particular personal objection to its use. In some<br />cases organic controls can give acceptable results if<br />you don't mind putting in a little more labor for a<br />little less reward at harvesting time. And if you're an<br />organic gardener, there are a few things you should<br />know about helping your vegetables survive attacks<br />by pests.<br />Planting problem-free vegetables<br />First of all, you can take the simple precaution of<br />planting only varieties that are not susceptible to<br />major pest problems. There are a lot of vegetables<br />that pests usually don't attack, or don't attack in large<br />enough numbers to cause you any real grief or<br />require the use of nonorganic methods of control.<br />All these are fairly problem-free vegetables:<br />artichokes, asparagus, beets, carrots, celeriac,<br />celery, chard, chicory, cucumbers, dandelion,<br />horseradish, Jerusalem artichokes, leeks, okra,<br />onions, parsnips, peas, radishes, rhubarb, salsify,<br />soybeans, spinach, turnips, and almost all the herbs.<br />Some vegetables are almost always attacked by<br />caterpillars that can be controlled by Bacillus<br />thuringiensis, an organic product that is harmless<br />to humans and animals. These include all the cabbage<br />family plants — broccoli, Brussels sprouts,<br />cabbage, cauliflower, collards, kale, and kohlrabi. The<br />other insects that commonly attack the cabbage<br />family plants can also usually be controlled by natural<br />and physical methods.<br />Some vegetables are almost always attacked by<br />large numbers of insects that cannot be controlled by<br />natural or physical methods. This is not to say that<br />you can't grow these crops without using pesticides;<br />you can, but usually your yield will be low. These<br />vegetables include most of the beans, Chinese<br />cabbage, sweet corn, eggplant, lettuce, mustard.<br />peppers, potatoes, pumpkins, rutabagas, sweet<br />potatoes, tomatoes, and watermelons.<br />Squash are not included in any of these<br />categories, because although the squash vine borer —<br />their main enerpy—cannot be effectively<br />controlled without using a pesticide, most squash are<br />prolific enough to give you an acceptable crop even<br />If you do lose some to bugs.<br />Physical controls<br />Sidestepping pest problems by planting vegetables<br />that are least likely to be seriously threatened by pests<br />is one practical way to protect your crop. Another is<br />the physical, do-it-yourself method of removing the<br />offenders by hand. If you're going to do this, it's<br />essential to identify pests in the early stages of their<br />attack. It's not a big deal to pick a couple of dozen<br />aphids off your broccoli; but when the attack is well<br />under way and your plant is covered with aphids,<br />you might as well forget about hand-picking, because<br />it's not going to work.<br />If you slip up and let a pest problem get past the<br />early stages, you can try a good blast of water from the<br />garden hose to knock the insects off the plant. Try<br />to do this on a dry day so that the leaves won't stay wet<br />for too long; wet leaves make the plant more<br />susceptible to disease and may give you a new<br />problem to replace the one you've just solved.<br />Other physical control methods can be effective<br />with specific pests. These methods are discussed in<br />detail later in this chapter.<br />Natural controls<br />These have to be the original "organic" ways of<br />controlling pest problems in the garden — you're<br />simply relying on harmless insects to destroy the<br />harmful ones. The effectiveness of these natural<br />methods of control is questionable; in some cases<br />you're probably just perpetuating old wives' tales. It's<br />true that insects like ladybugs, lacewing flies,<br />praying mantises, and aphis lions feed on bugs that are<br />destructive to your crop and should, therefore, be<br />protected when you find them in your garden. But it's<br />also true that they can't offer a complete answer to a<br />pest problem. If these helpful creatures visit your<br />garden, welcome and protect them. But don't<br />expect them to control all the pests that bother your<br />plants. That's asking too much of them.<br />It's possible to buy ladybugs, praying mantises,<br />and the like through the mail from garden supply<br />companies. However, you're likely to be wasting<br />your time and money by doing so. All these insects are<br />winged, and they're all very shy of people. The odds<br />are they'll wing it away as fast as you put them out,<br />deserting your vegetable garden for a more<br />secluded spot. Also, the beneficial Insects that you<br />import may not consider the specific variety of pest<br />that you have in your garden to be a particular<br />delicacy. In this case they'll fly off in search of more<br />appetizing fare. Either way, they're likely to let you<br />down as far as solving your pest problem is<br />concerned.<br />IDENTIFYING GARDEN PESTS<br />When you're talking about pest control it's an<br />advantage to group the types of pest you may<br />encounter in categories: Some work at night; some<br />work underground; some chew the plant's leaves;<br />others bore into the stems. The following is a list of<br />pests you're most likely to meet in your vegetable<br />garden, and chemical and nonchemical controls for<br />each insect.<br />Underground and nocturnal pests<br />The pest you can't see can be the hardest to deal<br />with. The following creatures work underground or at<br />night, so you don't know they're around until the<br />damage they do is visible.<br />Cutworms. These are the fat caterpillars of a<br />hairless night-flying moth. They spend the day curled<br />up just under the soil's surface, and they feed at<br />night; in spring they cut off seedlings and transplants<br />at ground level. Later in the season they climb up<br />some vegetable plants and chew large holes in the<br />fruit. Cutworms can be controlled chemically by<br />applying carbaryl to the base of the plants at the first<br />sign of chewing. You can discourage them without<br />using chemicals by putting a collar around each plant<br />when you transplant it. Thin cardboard or a<br />Styrofoam cup with the bottom removed makes an<br />effective collar. The collar should go down at least an<br />inch into the soil and should stand away from the<br />plant 11/2 to three inches on all sides.<br />Grubs. Grubs are beetles in their immature or<br />larva stage. They live just below the soil surface and<br />feed on plant roots. You may suspect they're active<br />if your plants are growing poorly for no apparent<br />reason, or if you pull a plant and discover the<br />damage. Grubs are normally only a problem where a<br />lawn area has been dug up to make a new garden.<br />Repeated tilling of the soil over a number of years will<br />control the problem. To control grubs in the first<br />year you will need to apply a soil drench of Diazinon.<br />Root maggots. Maggots are fly larvae. They are<br />yellowish-white, legless, wormlike creatures (a<br />quarter to VA inches long) that feast on roots and<br />stems just under the soil's surface. The best<br />nonchemical control is prevention. Discourage the<br />fly from laying eggs near the seedlings by putting<br />shields of plastic three or four inches square<br />around each plant. Take care not to cover the paper<br />with soil when you cultivate. Root maggots attack<br />beans, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots,<br />cauliflower, radishes, spinach, squash, and<br />turnips. You can control them chemically by<br />drenching the soil around the plant that's under<br />attack with Diazinon. Don't spray until you see the<br />damage; if your plants are growing poorly, and you<br />can't figure out why, root maggots may be the cause.<br />Wireworms. Wireworms are slender, hard worms<br />about an inch long. They eat the seed in the ground<br />and feed on underground roots and stems. After<br />doing their damage, which appears as poor-growing,<br />yellow, wilted plants, they grow up into click<br />beetles. To control wireworms, apply a soil drench<br />of Diazinon when the wireworms are present.<br />Chewing pests<br />Chewing pests are usually easy to find, especially<br />when they have put in a good clay's work, and they're<br />easier to control by nonchemical methods than the<br />nocturnal and underground pests are. Many of them<br />can be hand-picked off the plant or knocked off<br />with a blast from the hose. Almost every chewing<br />insect that feeds on the outside of the plant can be<br />controlled chemically by using carbaryl. Check to<br />make sure that you have identified the guilty party;<br />apply insecticide when the pest is first discovered,<br />and repeat the treatment as often as necessary<br />according to the directions on the label.<br />Ants. Except for the leaf-cutting varieties found in<br />the South and West, ants generally do not create much<br />of a problem for the home gardener. If they do nest<br />in your garden, they can be controlled physically by<br />digging up and destroying their nest. They can be<br />controlled chemically by drenching their nests with<br />Diazinon.<br />Beetles. Beetles come in many sizes and shapes.<br />Some prefer one or two special vegetables; others<br />chew on whatever looks appetizing at the time.<br />Some get their names from their favorite delicacy.<br />Asparagus beetles feed on asparagus; Mexican bean<br />beetles love beans. Blister beetles feed on beans,<br />beets,chard, corn, potatoes, tomatoes, and squash.<br />Cucumber beetles (spotted and striped) often attack<br />melons, pumpkins, squash, and watermelon, as<br />well as cucumbers. Their eating habits may not cause<br />much damage, but they carry cucumber bacterial<br />wilt, which will kill any of these plants when they're<br />older. Flea beetles will eat almost any garden crop.<br />They're very small, and it's difficult to spot them, but<br />you'll know they're there when tiny black dots jump<br />from the plants when you come near, and when you<br />notice that the leaves of your vegetable plants are<br />suddenly full of small holes scattered over the entire<br />leaf surface. Potato beetles chew on eggplants,<br />potatoes, and tomatoes. If there are too many small<br />beetles to hand-pick, try to hose them off. All these<br />beetles can be controlled chemically with carbaryl,<br />used according to the label directions.<br />Borers (squash vine borers). Cucumbers, melons,<br />pumpkins, and squash are attacked by this borer. The<br />egg is laid on the outside of the stem by a night-<br />flying moth. The eggs hatch, and the borers tunnel<br />inside the stem of the plant. As they grow inside the<br />stem, they eat it out, and eventually the plant wilts and<br />dies. Watch for the warning signs: stunting or<br />unexplained wilting of the plant or — this is the<br />surest evidence of who the culprit is — a small hole at<br />the base of the plant and a scattering of sawdustlike<br />material around it. A chemical control of carbaryl<br />needs to be applied at weekly intervals to the crown<br />of the plants before the borers get inside the stem.<br />Once the borer gets inside the plant chemical<br />controls will not help. You can control them physically<br />if you slit the stem, remove all the borers, and cover<br />the spot with earth to encourage root growth at that<br />point. This attempt at a cure may have the opposite<br />effect and kill the plant. But it's your only chance to get<br />rid of the borers.<br />Cabbage loopers and cabbage worms. These<br />caterpillars love to feed on all members of the cabbage<br />family; occasionally they will make do with lettuce.<br />To control them, spray with Bacillus thuringiensis, an<br />organic insecticide that is available under a number<br />of trade names including Dipel, Thuricide, and Bactur.<br />This is a completely safe organic spray that will<br />destroy the caterpillars without harming humans or<br />animals.<br />Corn earworms. These caterpillars prefer corn,<br />but they also feed on beans, tomatoes, peppers, and<br />eggplant. They are also called tomato fruitworms.<br />To effectively control them, be prepared to spray on a<br />regular schedule with carbaryl. Hand-picking and<br />cutting out the damaged parts of the vegetables will<br />give limited control of this pest.<br />Grasshoppers. They have great appetites and will<br />eat anything and everything. They usually appear in<br />late summer and are more active where the winters<br />are warm and the summers are hot. Try to control<br />them when they are young by hand-picking them<br />off the plants or by destroying the untended weedy<br />spots near the garden where they begin life.<br />Control them chemically when they are young by<br />spraying untended weedy areas with carbaryl.<br />Hornworms. Hornworms are large green<br />caterpillars three to four inches long with a hornlike<br />growth on their rear end. They eat the foliage and<br />fruit of your tomato plants. Since the large hornworms<br />do not usually invade in great numbers, hand-pick<br />them individually off the plants. If your garden is<br />invaded by numerous hornworms spray them with<br />Bacillus thuringiensis.<br />Parsley caterpillars. These feed on parsley, dill,<br />fennel, and other members of the parsley family.<br />They're not common enough to be a major<br />problem, and hand-picking usually provides<br />satisfactory control.<br />Leaf miners. Leaf miners are the larvae of a fly that<br />feed on the external portions of a leaf. They will feed<br />on cabbage and its relatives, and on chard, beets.<br />and occasionally lettuce. The best method of<br />controlling the leaf miner is to remove affected<br />leaves from the plant by hand and to hand-pick egg<br />masses that can usually be found on the backside of<br />older leaves. Since the leaf miner is inside the leaf<br />surface, chemical controls are ineffective.<br />Slugs and snails. Snails have shells and slugs don't.<br />Both are more closely related to oysters and clams<br />than they are to insects. You can detect their<br />presence by the slimy trail they leave from the scene of<br />their activity. They don't like to be out in the heat of<br />the day; they eat and run and can be hard to control.<br />They like to feed on cabbage and all its relatives,<br />and on carrots, lettuce, tomatoes, and turnips. To<br />control them remove their hiding places — old<br />boards, cans, bricks, and other garbage. Lay<br />scratchy sand or cinders around each plant to<br />discourage them. Or set a saucer in the soil with the<br />rim flush with the soil surface, and fill it with stale beer.<br />The slugs and snails will be attracted to the beer and<br />fall in and drown. Then you can dispose of them in the<br />morning.<br />Sucking pests<br />Aphids, leafhoppers, mites, and thrips may be hard<br />to see. By the time their damage is apparent it is often<br />too late to take much action. Watch for scraped and<br />rusty-looking places on leaves, twisted and deformed<br />leaves and leaf-tips, and stems that look unusually<br />thick.<br />Aphids. Aphids are tiny pear-shaped insects,<br />often green, that will attack almost every vegetable<br />crop commonly grown. They feed by sucking the<br />sap of the tender stems and leaves, causing<br />distortions. They also exude a sweet substance<br />called honeydew, which is attractive to ants and can<br />cause sooty molds. Aphids are also carriers of<br />mosaic virus and other diseases. Ladybugs and their<br />larvae eat aphids — provided that they're hungry<br />and the aphids are the kind they like — and may help<br />you control the pests. Aphids can also be controlled<br />nonchemically by pinching out infested tips. Aphids<br />can be chemically controlled by an application of<br />Malathion or Diazinon (make sure to cover the<br />underside of the leaves). Malathion generally has a<br />shorter residue effect.<br />Leafhoppers. These are green, jumping, winged<br />insects about an eighth inch long when adult. They<br />feed on the undersides of the leaves, sucking sap<br />and causing light-colored spotting on the upper side.<br />They can also spread plant diseases. Populations can<br />be discouraged organically by hosing them off the<br />leaves. You can control leafhoppers chemically by<br />spraying the underside of the leaves with carbaryl or<br />Malathion. They will feed on beans, carrots,<br />chayote, cucumbers, endive, lettuce, melons, and<br />potatoes.<br />Spider mites. Spider mites are very small and<br />difficult to see. You can be fairly sure that spider mites<br />are to blame if the leaves are losing color in spots<br />and turning yellowish, light green or rusty and there<br />are silvery webs on the undersides. Spider mites are<br />difficult to control even if you use the proper<br />chemicals. You can spray the undersides of the<br />foliage with Diazinon before populations get too<br />large. If you don't want to spray or if the spraying is<br />ineffective, remove the affected plants before the<br />spider mites spread.<br />Thrips. Thrips are small, fast-moving insects that<br />are almost invisible to the naked eye. The damage they<br />do shows up first as white blotches, then there is a<br />distortion of the leaf tips. When thrips attack onions.<br />they dwarf and distort the bulbs. Thrips also attack<br />beans, beets, carrots, cabbage and its relatives,<br />celery, cucumbers, melons, onions, peas, squash,<br />tomatoes, and turnips. Large populations of thrips can<br />be discouraged by hosing them off the plants.<br />Thrips can be controlled chemically if you spray them<br />with Malathion or Diazinon.<br />Whiteflies. Whiteflies are minute sucking insects<br />that look like tiny white moths. They live and feed on<br />the undersides of leaves and live unnoticed until<br />you disturb the plant, then they fly out in great white<br />clouds. Whitefly populations can be discouraged<br />by hosing them off the plants. Control them<br />chemically by spraying the undersides of the leaves<br />with Malathion or Diazinon,<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />PLANT DISEASES: PREVENTION BETTER THAN CURE<br />A number of plant diseases are the result of<br />unfavorable growing conditions, but many are caused<br />by parasitic bacteria and fungi that cannot produce<br />their own food and rely on the plant for nourishment.<br />Some diseases are airborne, and others can live for<br />years in the soil, so it's difficult for the gardener to<br />predict or control them.<br />As a matter of policy, prevention is better than<br />cure — or attempting a cure — where plant diseases<br />are concerned. You can try to avoid the conditions<br />that promote disease by choosing your planting sites<br />wisely. Primarily you want to avoid the combination<br />of too much moisture, too much shade, and soil that's<br />too cool — the three conditions that provide an<br />ideal environment for the propagation of diseases.<br />You can also plant disease-resistant varieties, rotate<br />crops, and take steps to keep your garden clean and<br />healthy.<br />If your preventive measures don't work, you'll<br />have to cut your losses. There's little you can do to<br />save a plant that has been attacked by a parasitic<br />fungus or bacterial disease, and your best bet is to<br />remove the affected plant as soon as possible<br />before the disease has a chance to spread to healthy<br />plants. This may seem drastic, and you may be<br />tempted to save the plant, especially if it's near<br />harvesttime. Don't give in to temptation —you're<br />risking the rest of your crop. Remove the diseased<br />plant and burn it, put it in the garbage, or dispose of<br />it elsewhere well away from your vegetable garden.<br />Don't leave it lying around the garden, and don't<br />put it on the compost pile.<br />Protecting your garden from disease<br />Maintaining a healthy garden requires you to be a<br />conscientious gardener. Here are methods you can<br />use to keep your garden free from disease:<br />Prepare the soil properly. Make it easy for your<br />plants to grow well. Plant vegetables in full sun if you<br />can; strong sunlight is a great disinfectant, and the<br />energy plants draw from the sun gives them extra<br />strength. Make sure the soil is well-worked, has<br />good drainage, and is high in organic matter so the soil<br />moisture will remain even. Do not plant the<br />vegetables when the soil and air are too cold. Place<br />plants far enough apart so to avoid crowding; this<br />will allow good air circulation, and the plants will be<br />able to dry out after a rain.<br />Select disease-resistant varieties. Where possible,<br />buy seeds that are certified as disease-free. Use seeds<br />that have been treated with fungicide, or start your<br />seeds in a sterile soil mix. Your local Cooperative<br />Extension Service can supply you with a list of<br />disease-resistant vegetable varieties for your area.<br />Rotate your crops. Do not grow the same plant<br />family in the same spot year after year. Repetition of<br />the same crop gives diseases a chance to build up<br />strength. There are three major vegetable families:<br />cole crops (cabbage family) — broccoli, Brussels<br />sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, rutabaga,<br />and turnip; cucurbits (cucumber family) —<br />cucumber, gourds, muskmelons, pumpkins,<br />summer and winter squash, and watermelons; and<br />solanaceous plants (tomato and pepper family) —<br />eggplant, Irish potato, pepper, and tomato. After<br />growing a crop from one of these families one year,<br />choose a variety from one of the other families to<br />plant in the same spot the following season.<br />Don't work with wet plants. Do not work the soil<br />when it is wet. When you're watering the garden, try<br />not to splash water on the plants, especially in hot,<br />humid weather. Handling plants when they're wet<br />spreads diseases.<br />Control garden pests. Keep insects and other small<br />pests under control. Some insects spread disease;<br />sometimes insects just weaken the plant so that it<br />becomes more susceptible to disease.<br />,Don't infect your own plants. If you smoke, wash<br />your hands well with soap and hot running water<br />before working with tomatoes, peppers, and<br />eggplant. Smokers can infect these plants with<br />tobacco mosaic virus, causing them to mottle,<br />streak, drop their leaves, and die.<br />Keep your garden clean. Always keep the garden<br />clear of weeds, trash, and plants that have finished<br />producing. Remove infected plants. If you have a<br />sick plant in the garden, identify the problem. If it's a<br />virus or fungus disease, remove the affected plant<br />as quickly as possible. Destroy the plant; do not put it<br />in the compost pile. This removal of infected plants<br />Is called "culling." Don't think of it as killing a plant;<br />Common problems in vegetable gardening<br />PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSES POSSIBLE CURES<br />Plants wilt Lack of water Water<br />Too much water Stop watering; improve drainage;<br />pray for less rain<br />Disease Use disease-resistant varieties;<br />keep your garden clean<br />Leaves and stems are spotted Fertilizer or chemical burn Follow instructions; read all fine<br />print; keep fertilizer off plant<br />unless recommended<br />Disease Use disease-resistant varieties<br />of seed; dust or spray; remove<br />affected plants<br />Plants are weak and spindly Not enough light Remove causemove plants<br />of shade or<br />Too much water Improve drainage; stop watering;<br />pray for less rain<br />Plants are crowded Thin out<br />Too much nitrogen Reduce fertilizing<br />Leaves curl Wilt Destroy affected plants; rotate<br />crops; grow disease-resistant<br />varieties<br />Virus Control aphids; destroy<br />affected plants<br />Moisture imbalance Mulch<br />Plants are stunted — yellowand peaked<br />Too much water Reduce watering<br />Poor drainage Improve drainage; add more<br />organic matter before next<br />planting<br />Compacted soil Cultivate soil more deeply<br />Too much rubbish Remove rubbish<br />Acid soil Test, add lime if necessary<br />Not enough fertilizer Test, add fertilizer (this should<br />have been done before planting)<br />Common problems in vegetable gardening (cont.)<br />PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSES POSSIBLE CURES<br />Plants are stunted — yellowand peaked (cont.)<br />Seeds do not come up<br />Young plants die<br />Leaves have holes<br />Tortured, abnormal growth<br />Blossom ends of tomatoes andpeppers rot<br />Insects or diseases<br />Yellow or wilt disease, especiallyif yellowing attacks one side ofthe plant first<br />Not enough time for germination<br />Too cold<br />Too dry<br />Too wet, they rotted<br />Birds or insects ate them<br />Seed was too old<br />Fungus (damping-off)<br />Rotting<br />Fertilizer burn<br />Insects, birds, rabbits<br />Heavy winds or hail<br />Herbicide residue in sprayer, in<br />grass clippings used as mulch, indrift from another locationVirus<br />Dry weather following a wet spellNot enough calcium in soil<br />Identify and follow<br />recommendations from your<br />extension service<br />Spraying will not help; remove<br />affected plants; plant diseaseresistant<br />seed in clean soil<br />Wait<br />Wait — replant if necessary<br />Water<br />Replant<br />Replant<br />Replant with fresh seed<br />Treat seed with fungicide or plant<br />in sterile soil<br />Do not overwater<br />Follow recommendations for<br />using the fertilizer more closely;<br />be sure fertilizer is mixed<br />thoroughly with soil<br />Identify culprit and take<br />appropriate measures<br />Plan for better protection<br />Use separate sprayer for<br />herbicides; spray only on still<br />days; use another means<br />of weed control<br />Control insects that transmit<br />disease; remove infected plants<br />(do not put them on the<br />compost pile)<br />Mulch to even out soil moisture<br />Add lime<br />Common problems in vegetable gardening (cont.)<br />PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSES POSSIBLE CURES<br />Blossom ends of tomatoes and Compacted soil Cultivate<br />peppers rot (cont.) Too-deep cultivation Avoid cultivating too deeply<br />There is no fruit Weather too cold Watch your planting time<br />Weather too hot Same as above<br />Too much nitrogen Fertilize only as often and as<br />heavily as needed for the variety<br />No pollination Pollinate with a brush, or by<br />shaking plant (depending on<br />kind); do not kill all<br />the insects<br />Plants not mature enough Wait<br />Common names: artichoke,<br />globe artichoke<br />Botanical name: Cynara<br />scolymus<br />Origin: southern Europe, North<br />America<br />Varieties<br />There are very few varieties of<br />artichokes; Green Globe is the<br />variety commonly grown.<br />Description<br />The artichoke is a thistlelike,<br />tender perennial that grows three<br />to four feet tall and three to four<br />feet wide. It is grown for its flower<br />buds, which are eaten before<br />they begin to open. The elegant,<br />architectural leaves make the<br />artichoke very decorative, but<br />because it is tender and hates<br />cold weather, it's not for al!<br />gardens. Artichokes, an ancient<br />Roman delicacy, were introduced<br />to France by Catherine de<br />Medici. Later they were taken to<br />Louisiana by the French<br />colonists.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Artichokes have a definite<br />preference for a long, frost-free<br />season with damp weather.<br />They cannot handle heavy frost or<br />snow, and in areas where the<br />temperature goes below freezing<br />they need special care and<br />mulching. Artichokes grow best in<br />the four central California<br />counties and on the southern<br />Atlantic and Gulf coasts. In the<br />North, artichokes must be grown<br />in a protected location — the<br />temperature should not be over<br />70°F by day, or under 55°F at<br />night. Plant them on the average<br />date of last frost for your area.<br />How to plant<br />Artichokes are grown from<br />offshoots, suckers, or seed. For<br />best results, start with offshoots<br />or suckers from a reputable<br />nursery or garden center;<br />artichoke plants grown from seed<br />vary tremendously in quality.<br />Artichokes need rich, well-drained<br />soil that will hold moisture, and<br />a position in full sunlight. When<br />you're preparing the soil for<br />planting, work in a low-nitrogen (510-10)<br />fertilizer at the rate of one<br />pound per 100 square feet or 10<br />pounds per 1,000 square feet.<br />Too much nitrogen will keep the<br />plant from flowering. Space the<br />offshoots or suckers three to four<br />feet apart in rows four to five<br />feet apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Keep the soil evenly moist.<br />Special handling<br />For the roots to survive the<br />winter in cooler areas, cut the plant<br />back to about 10 inches, cover<br />with a bushel basket, and then<br />mulch with about two feet of<br />leaves to help maintain an even soil<br />temperature. Artichokes bear<br />best the second year and should be<br />started from new plants every<br />three to four years.<br />Pests<br />Aphids and plume moths plague<br />the artichoke. The plume moth is<br />not a serious problem except in<br />artichoke-growing areas. Aphids<br />can be controlled chemically<br />by spraying the foliage with<br />Malathion or Diazinon or<br />nonchemically by hand-picking<br />or hosing them off the plants.<br />Detailed information on pest<br />control is given in "Keeping Your<br />Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />Diseases<br />Crown rot may occur where<br />drainage is poor or where the<br />plants have to be covered in<br />winter. To avoid this problem,<br />don't mulch until the soil<br />temperature drops to40°F, and<br />don't leave the mulch in place<br />longer than necessary.<br />Cut down on the incidence of<br />disease by planting disease-<br />resistant varieties when they're<br />available, maintaining the general<br />health of your garden, and<br />avoiding handling the plants when<br />they're wet. If a plant does<br />become infected, remove and<br />destroy it so it cannot spread<br />disease to healthy plants. Detailed<br />information on disease prevention<br />is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />50 to 100 days for artichokes grown<br />' from suckers; at least a year<br />until the first bud forms when<br />they're grown from seed. To<br />harvest, cut off the globe artichoke<br />bud with one to 11/2 inches of<br />stem before the bud begins to<br />open.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Artichokes can be stored in the<br />refrigerator for up to two weeks, or<br />in a cold, moist place up to one<br />month. Artichoke hearts can also<br />be frozen, canned, or pickled.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Cook artichokes in salted water<br />with a squeeze of lemon juice to<br />help retain their color. With hot<br />artichokes serve a Hollandaise<br />sauce; a vinaigrette is delicious<br />when they're cold. They're not as<br />messy to eat as you may<br />imagine — anyway, it's quite<br />legitimate to use your fingers.<br />Stuff artichokes with seafood or a<br />meat mixture and bake them. To<br />stuff, spread open the leaves and<br />remove some of the center<br />leaves; cut off some of the hard<br />tips of the outer leaves. An<br />interesting Italian-style stuffing<br />mix is seasoned breadcrumbs<br />with anchovies, topped with a<br />tomato sauce. For an Armenian-<br />style dish, try ground lamb and<br />bulgur (cracked wheat). Baby<br />artichokes are delicious in<br />stews, or marinated in olive oil,<br />vinegar, and garlic as part of an<br />antipasto. The Romans used to<br />bottle artichokes in vinegar and<br />brine.<br />Common name: asparagus<br />Botanical name: Asparagus<br />officinalis<br />Origin: Mediterranean<br />Varieties<br />Paradise, Mary Washington,<br />and Martha Washington are all<br />rust-resistant varieties.<br />Description<br />Asparagus is a long-lived hardy<br />perennial with fleshy roots and<br />fernlike, feathery foliage. The<br />plant grows about three feet tall,<br />and the part you eat is the tender<br />young stem. It takes patience to<br />establish an asparagus bed, but<br />it's worth it; once established, it's<br />there for the duration. Fresh<br />asparagus is a delicacy that<br />commands a devoted following—<br />the first asparagus is<br />as welcome to the gourmet as the<br />first crocus is to the gardener.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Asparagus grows well in most<br />areas of the United States, with the<br />exception of the Deep South. It<br />likes a climate where the winters<br />are cold enough to freeze the<br />top few inches of soil and provide<br />it with the necessary period of<br />dormancy. Advance planning is<br />essential when you're starting<br />an asparagus bed, because it's<br />virtually impossible to move the<br />bed once it's established. You'll<br />probably have to order asparagus<br />crowns by mail through a<br />nursery catalog; order early, and<br />plant asparagus four to six<br />weeks before your area's average<br />date of last frost.<br />How to plant<br />Asparagus needs well-drained ,<br />soil, with a pH over 6. Full sun is<br />best, but asparagus will tolerate<br />a little shade. When you're<br />preparing the soil, spade down<br />eight to 10 inches, and dig in one to<br />11/2 pounds per 100 square feet<br />of a complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer. Asparagus is usually<br />grown from crowns; look for well-<br />grown, well-rooted specimens,<br />and be sure they don't dry out. To<br />plant asparagus crowns, dig out<br />a trench or furrow 10 inches wide<br />and 10 to 12 inches deep, and<br />put in two to four inches of loose<br />soil. Space the crowns in the<br />prepared bed in rows 18 inches<br />apart, leaving 12 to 18 inches<br />between plants. Place the crowns<br />on the soil, with the roots well<br />spread out, and cover with two<br />more inches of soil. As the<br />spears grow, gradually fill in the<br />trench to the top.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Apply a high-nitrogen (15-10-10)<br />fertilizer after harvesting the<br />spears, at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10 pounds<br />per 1,000 square feet. Detailed<br />information on fertilizing is given<br />in "Spadework: The Essential<br />Soil" in Parti.<br />It's important to give asparagus<br />enough water when the<br />spears are forming. The plant is<br />hardy and will survive without<br />extra watering, but the stalks may<br />be stringy and woody if you<br />don't keep the soil moist.<br />Special handling<br />Do not handle the plants when<br />they are wet. Asparagus does not<br />relish competition, especially<br />from grass plants. Weed<br />thoroughly by hand; control<br />weeds conscientiously, or they will<br />lower your yield considerably.<br />Pests<br />The asparagus beetle may attack<br />your plants, but should not be a<br />problem except in commercial<br />asparagus-growing areas. If you do<br />encounter this pest, pick it off,<br />or spray with carbaryl. Detailed<br />information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Asparagus can develop rust;<br />you can lessen the incidence of<br />disease by opting for a rust-<br />resistant variety. Generally,<br />asparagus is a problem-free<br />crop and suitable for the organic<br />gardener. Detailed information<br />on disease prevention is given in<br />"Keeping Your Garden Healthy"<br />in Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Asparagus should not be<br />harvested until it's three years old;<br />the crowns need time to<br />develop fully. During the third<br />season, cut off the spears at or<br />slightly below soil level. Move a<br />little soil gently aside as you cut<br />the spears so you can see what<br />you're doing — if you cut blind<br />you may damage young spears that<br />have not yet pushed through<br />the surface. Harvest asparagus<br />when the spears are eight to 10<br />inches tall; if the stalks have<br />started to feather out, it's too<br />late to eat them. Stop harvesting<br />when the stalks start coming up<br />pencil-thin; if you harvest them all,<br />you'll kill the plants.<br />Storing and preserving<br />The Romans began to dry their<br />asparagus for out-of-season dining<br />as early as 200 B.C. These days,<br />you can store it up to one week in<br />the refrigerator — keep it<br />upright in an inch or so of water, as<br />you'd keep flowers. You can<br />also freeze or can It, but it's best<br />eaten fresh. Detailed<br />Information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />In the first century the Emperor<br />Augustus told his minions to carry<br />out executions "quicker than<br />you can cook asparagus," and they<br />knew they'd better get the job<br />done fast. One of the earliest<br />records of asparagus being<br />eaten in America recommends it<br />with "oil and vinegar," which is<br />still one of the best ways. Steam<br />asparagus quickly, or cook it<br />upright in a pan, so the stems cook<br />faster than the tender tips. Fresh<br />asparagus adorned with nothing<br />but a little melted butter is<br />superb — or try it with creamed<br />chicken on toast or laid on toast<br />and topped with a thin slice of<br />prosciutto and cream sauce.<br />Chive mayonnaise, mustard<br />butter, or a caper butter sauce<br />are all splendid alternative<br />dressings for asparagus.<br />Common names: bean, broad<br />bean, horsebean, fava bean,<br />Scotch bean, Windsor bean<br />Botanical name: Vicia faba<br />Origin: Central Asia<br />Varieties<br />Long Pod (55 days); Broad Long<br />Pod (57 days). Few varieties are<br />available; grow the variety<br />available in your area.<br />Description<br />The broad bean is a bushy,<br />hardy annual that grows three to<br />four feet tall; it has square stems<br />with leaves divided into leaflets.<br />The white flowers are splotched<br />with brown. The pods are six to<br />eight inches long and when<br />mature contain four to six or more<br />light-brown seeds. The broad<br />bean has quite a history. Upper-<br />class Greeks and Romans<br />thought that eating "horse beans"<br />would cloud their vision, but<br />the species became a dietary staple<br />of the Roman legionnaires (who<br />knew them as fava beans) and later<br />of the poor people in England.<br />In fact, they're not true beans at all<br />but are related to the vetch,<br />another legume.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Broad beans will grow in cool<br />weather that would be unsuitable<br />for snap beans. They like full sun<br />but need cool weather to set their<br />pods. They prefer temperatures<br />below 70°F and should be planted<br />very early in the growing<br />season; they will not produce in<br />the summer's heat. In areas<br />where winters are mild, plant<br />broad beans in the fall for a<br />spring crop. In cold areas they can<br />be grown instead of lima beans,<br />which require a warmer and longer<br />growing season.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />How to plant<br />Plant broad beans very early in<br />spring. Choose a location in full<br />sunlight with soil that is fertile,<br />high in organic matter, and well-<br />drained. Broad beans prefer an<br />alkaline soil. When you're<br />preparing the soil for planting,<br />work in a complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one<br />pound per 100 square feet or 10<br />pounds per 1,000 square feet.<br />Plant broad bean seeds one to<br />two inches deep in rows four feet<br />apart. When the seedlings are<br />growing strongly, thin them to<br />stand eight to 10 inches apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Beans set up a mutual exchange<br />with soil microorganisms called<br />nitrogen-fixing bacteria, which<br />help them produce their own<br />fertilizer. Some gardeners<br />recommend that if you haven't<br />grown beans in the plot the<br />previous season, you should treat<br />the bean seeds before planting<br />with a nitrogen-fixing bacteria<br />inoculant to help them convert<br />organic nitrogen compounds into<br />usable organic compounds.<br />This is a perfectly acceptable<br />practice but it isn't really<br />necessary; the bacteria in the soil<br />will multiply quickly enough<br />once they've got a growing bean<br />plant to work with.<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Water broad beans before the<br />soil dries out, but don't<br />overwater — wet soil conditions<br />combined with high temperatures<br />are an invitation to root diseases.<br />Pests<br />Beans are attacked by aphids,<br />bean beetles, flea beetles,<br />leafhoppers, and mites. Aphids,<br />leafhoppers, and mites can be<br />controlled chemically by<br />spraying with Malathion or<br />Diazinon. Bean beetles and flea<br />beetles can be controlled<br />chemically by spraying with<br />carbaryl. Beans are almost<br />always attacked by large numbers<br />of pests that cannot be<br />controlled by organic methods;<br />this doesn't mean they can't be<br />grown organically, but it does<br />mean that yields may be lower if<br />only organic controls are used.<br />Detailed information on pest<br />control is given in "Keeping Your<br />Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />Diseases<br />Beans are susceptible to blight,<br />mosaic, and anthracnose. You can<br />cut down on the incidence of<br />disease by planting disease-<br />resistant varieties when they're<br />available, maintaining the general<br />health of your garden, and<br />avoiding handling the plants when<br />they're wet. If a plant does<br />become infected, remove it and<br />destroy it so it can't spread<br />disease to healthy plants. Detailed<br />information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Broad beans can be harvested<br />when the beans are still the size of<br />a pea and used like snap beans.<br />It's more usual, however, to let<br />them reach maturity and eat<br />only the shelled beans. Time from<br />planting to harvest is about 85<br />days.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Unshelled beans can be kept up<br />to one week in the refrigerator.<br />You can freeze, can, or dry the<br />shelled beans. Dried shelled broad<br />beans can be stored in a cool,<br />dry place for 10 to 12 months.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Broad beans are good steamed<br />and served with a light white or<br />cheese sauce. Or top steamed<br />broad beans with a little sauteed<br />parsley, garlic, and onion. Use<br />them in a casserole with onions,<br />tomatoes, and cheese, or add<br />them to a hearty vegetable soup<br />along with any other vegetables<br />you've got on hand. You can<br />prepare broad beans any way<br />you prepare lima beans.<br />Common names: pinto beans,<br />navy beans, horticultural beans,<br />flageolet<br />Botanical name: Phaseolus<br />species<br />Origin: South Mexico, Central<br />America<br />Varieties<br />Dry beans are so called because<br />the mature seeds are generally<br />dried before they're eaten.<br />There are many types, and some of<br />the most common are<br />cranberry. Great Northern,<br />michilite, pinto, red kidney,<br />white marrowfat, and pea beans.<br />Horticultural beans, the<br />genuine French flageolets, are a<br />type of dry bean highly regarded<br />by gourmets; they're usually eaten<br />in the green-shell stage. Ask<br />your Cooperative Extension<br />Service for specific<br />recommendations for your area.<br />Description<br />Dry beans are tender annuals.<br />Their leaves are usually composed<br />of three leaflets, and the small<br />flowers are pale yellow or white.<br />Dry beans are seldom planted in<br />the home vegetable garden<br />because it's so easy and<br />inexpensive to buy them. They're<br />fairly easy to grow, however,<br />and give good yields, so if you have<br />space in your garden you may<br />want to try them.<br />You can grow either bush or<br />pole varieties of beans. Bushes are<br />generally easier to handle; they<br />grow only one to two feet tall, and<br />they mature earlier. Pole beans<br />require a trellis for support; they<br />grow more slowly, but produce<br />more beans per plant.<br />Where and when to plant<br />Beans require warm soil to<br />germinate and should be planted<br />on the average date of last<br />spring frost. Use the length of your<br />growing season and the number<br />of days the variety takes to mature<br />to figure your latest planting<br />date. If you need to sow before<br />your area's average date of last<br />frost, start the seed indoors in<br />peat pots and transplant the<br />seedlings when the soil has<br />warmed up. Time your planting<br />so that the beans will mature<br />before very hot weather; they<br />will not set pods at temperatures<br />over80°F.<br />You can plant bush beans<br />every two weeks to extend the<br />harvest, or start with bush beans<br />and follow up with pole beans. In<br />some parts of the country —<br />California, for example — you<br />can get two crops by planting in<br />the spring and then planting again<br />in early fall for a winter harvest.<br />How to plant<br />After the last frost is over,<br />choose a bed in full sunlight;<br />beans tolerate partial shade, but<br />partial shade tends to mean a<br />partial yield. When you're<br />preparing the soil, mix in a pound<br />of low-nitrogen (5-10-10)<br />fertilizer — don't use a high-<br />nitrogen fertilizer; too much<br />nitrogen will promote growth of<br />foliage but not of the beans.<br />Bean seeds may crack and<br />germinate poorly when the<br />moisture content of the soil is too<br />high. Don't soak the seeds<br />before planting, and don't<br />overwater immediately<br />afterwards.<br />Plant the bean seeds an inch<br />deep. If they're bush beans, plant<br />the seeds three to four inches<br />apart in rows at least 18 to 24 inches<br />apart. Seeds of pole beans<br />should be planted four to six<br />inches apart in rows 30 to 36<br />inches apart. Or plant in inverted<br />hills — five or six seeds to a hill,<br />and 30 inches of space around each<br />hill. When the seedlings are<br />large enough to handle, thin the<br />plants to four to six inches apart.<br />Cut the seedlings with scissors at<br />ground level; be careful not to<br />disturb the others. Beans don't<br />mind being a little crowded — in<br />fact, they'll use each other for<br />support.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Beans set up a mutual exchange<br />with soil microorganisms called<br />nitrogen-fixing bacteria, which<br />help them produce their own<br />fertilizer. Some gardeners<br />recommend that if you haven't<br />grown beans in the plot the<br />previous season, you should treat<br />the bean seeds before planting<br />with a nitrogen-fixing bacteria<br />inoculant to help them convert<br />organic nitrogen compounds into<br />usable organic compounds.<br />This is a perfectly acceptable<br />practice but it isn't really<br />necessary; the bacteria in the soil<br />will multiply quickly enough<br />once they've got a growing bean<br />plant to work with.<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Keep the soil moist until the<br />beans have pushed through the<br />ground. Water regularly if<br />there's no rain, but remember that<br />water on the flowers can cause<br />the flowers and small pods to fall<br />off. When the soil temperature<br />reaches 60°F you can mulch to<br />conserve moisture.<br />Special handling<br />Don't touch bean plants when<br />they're wet or covered with heavy<br />dew; handling or brushing<br />against them when they're wet<br />spreads fungus spores.<br />Cultivate thoroughly but with care,<br />so that you don't disturb the<br />bean plants' shallow root systems.<br />If you're planting pole beans,<br />set the trellis or support in position<br />before you plant or at the same<br />time. If you wait until the plants are<br />established, you risk damaging<br />the roots when you set the<br />supports. Make sure the<br />support will be tall enough for the<br />variety you're growing.<br />Pests<br />Beans may be attacked by<br />aphids, bean beetles, flea beetles,<br />leafhoppers, and mites. Aphids,<br />leafhoppers, and mites can be<br />controlled chemically by<br />spraying with Malathion or<br />Diazinon. Bean beetles and flea<br />beetles can be controlled<br />chemically by spraying with<br />carbaryl. Beans are almost always<br />attacked by large numbers of<br />pests that cannot be controlled by<br />organic methods. This doesn't<br />mean the organic gardener can't<br />grow them, but yields may be<br />lower if only organic controls are<br />used. Detailed information on<br />pest control is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Beans are susceptible to blight,<br />mosaic, and anthracnose. You can<br />cut down on the incidence of<br />disease by planting disease-<br />resistant varieties when they're<br />available, maintaining the general<br />health of your garden, and<br />avoiding handling the plants when<br />they're wet. If a plant does<br />become infected, remove and<br />destroy it so it cannot spread<br />disease to healthy plants. Detailed<br />information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Harvest dry beans when the<br />plants have matured and the leaves<br />have turned completely brown.<br />At this time the seeds should be<br />dry and hard — bite a couple of<br />seeds; if you can hardly dent them<br />they're properly dry and ready<br />to harvest.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Unshelled beans can be kept up<br />to one week in the refrigerator.<br />You can freeze, can, or dry the<br />shelled beans, and they can also be<br />sprouted. Dried shelled beans<br />can be stored in a cool, dry place<br />for 10 to 12 months. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Dried beans are tremendously<br />versatile and have the added<br />advantage of being<br />interchangeable in many recipes.<br />They're also nourishing and<br />figure prominently in vegetarian<br />recipes. Chili and baked beans<br />are two of the famous dishes that<br />depend upon dried beans, and<br />beans are essential to the famous<br />French Cassoulet — a hearty<br />stew that combines beans with<br />pork, chicken, sausage, or a<br />mixture of all three depending on<br />the region the cook comes<br />from. Try retried pinto beans as a<br />filling for tacos. Add sausage or<br />ham to a thick bean soup for a<br />winter supper to cheer up the<br />chilliest evening.<br />Common names: bean, green<br />bean, snap bean, string bean,<br />French bean, wax bean, pole<br />bean, bush bean, stringless<br />bean<br />Botanical name: Phaseolus<br />vulgaris<br />Origin: South Mexico, Central<br />America<br />Varieties<br />The most commonly grown<br />beans are the green or snap bean<br />and the yellow or wax variety.<br />Since 1894, when Burpee<br />introduced the Stringless Green<br />Pod, most of these beans have<br />been stringless. The following<br />are only a few of the varieties<br />available. Ask your Cooperative<br />Extension Service for specific<br />recommendations for your<br />area.<br />Green bush (green snap bean,<br />bush): Astro (53 days); Blue Lake<br />(56 days); Contender (53 days);<br />Provider (53 days); Tendergreen<br />(57 days); Tender Crop (53<br />days) — all resistant to bean<br />mosaic virus. Wax bush (yellow<br />snap bean, bush): Cherokee Way<br />(55 days); Early Wax<br />(50 days) — both resistant to<br />bean mosaic virus. Green pole<br />(green snap bean, pole): Blue<br />Lake (65 days); McCaslan (65<br />days) — both resistant to bean<br />mosaic virus; Kentucky Wonder<br />(65 days).<br /> <br />Description<br />Beans are tender annuals that<br />grow either as bushes or vines.<br />Their leaves are usually<br />composed of three leaflets; their<br />flowers are pale yellow,<br />lavender, or white. The size and<br />color of the pods and seeds<br />vary. Snap beans require a short<br />growing season — about 60<br />days of moderate temperatures<br />from seed to the first crop.<br />They'll grow anywhere in the<br />United States and are an<br />encouraging vegetable for the<br />inexperienced gardener. The<br />immature pod is the part that's<br />eaten. Beans grow as bushes or<br />vines. Bushes are generally easier<br />to handle; they grow only one to<br />two feet tall, and they mature<br />earlier. Pole beans require a<br />trellis for support; they grow more<br />slowly, but produce more beans<br />per plant.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Because many varieties have a<br />short growing season, beans do<br />well in most areas, whatever the<br />climate. They require warm soil to<br />germinate and should be<br />planted on the average date of last<br />spring frost. You can plant bush<br />beans every two weeks to extend<br />the harvest, or you can start with<br />bush beans and follow up with<br />pole beans. In some parts of the<br />country — California, for<br />example — you can get two<br />crops by planting in the spring and<br />then planting again in early fall<br />for a winter harvest. Use the length<br />of your growing season and the<br />number of days the variety takes to<br />mature to figure your latest<br />planting date. If you need to sow<br />before your area's average last<br />frost date, start the seed indoors in<br />peat pots and transplant the<br />seedlings when the soil has<br />warmed up. Time your planting<br />so the beans will mature before<br />very hot weather; they will not<br />set pods at temperatures over 80°F.<br />How to plant<br />After the last frost is over,<br />choose a bed in full sunlight;<br />beans tolerate partial shade, but<br />partial shade tends to mean a<br />partial yield. Prepare the soil by<br />mixing in a pound of 5-10-10<br />fertilizer — don't use a high-<br />nitrogen fertilizer, because too<br />much nitrogen will promote<br />growth of foliage but not of the<br />beans. Work the fertilizer into<br />the soil at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10 pounds<br />per 1,000 square feet.<br />Bean seeds may crack and<br />germinate poorly when the<br />moisture content of the soil is<br />too high. Don't soak the seeds<br />before planting, and don't<br />overwater immediately afterward.<br />Plant seeds of all varieties an<br />inch deep. If you're planting bush<br />beans, plant the seeds two<br />inches apart in rows at least 18 to 24<br />inches apart. Seeds of pole<br />beans should be planted four to six<br />inches apart in rows 30 to 36<br />inches apart. Or plant them in<br />inverted hills, five or six seeds to<br />a hill, with 30 inches of space<br />around each hill. For pole<br />varieties, set the supports or<br />trellises at the time of planting.<br />When the seedlings are<br />growing well, thin the plants to<br />four to six inches apart. Cut the<br />seedlings with scissors at ground<br />level; be careful not to disturb<br />the others. Beans don't mind being<br />a little crowded; in fact, they'll<br />use each other for support.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Beans set up a mutual exchange<br />with soil microorganisms called<br />nitrogen-fixing bacteria, which<br />help them produce their own<br />fertilizer. Some gardeners<br />recommend that if you haven't<br />grown beans in the plot the<br />previous season, you should treat<br />the bean seeds before planting<br />with a nitrogen-fixing bacteria<br />inoculant to help them convert<br />organic nitrogen compounds into<br />usable organic compounds.<br />This is a perfectly acceptable<br />practice but it isn't really<br />necessary; the bacteria in the soil<br />will multiply quickly enough<br />once they've got a growing bean<br />plant to work with.<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Keep the soil moist until the<br />beans have pushed through the<br />ground. Water regularly if there<br />is no rain, but remember that water<br />on the flowers can cause the<br />flowers and small pods to fall off.<br />When the soil temperature<br />reaches 60°F you can mulch to<br />conserve moisture.<br />Special handling<br />Don't bother bean plants when<br />they're wet or covered with heavy<br />dew; handling or brushing<br />against them when they're wet<br />spreads fungus spores.<br />Cultivate thoroughly but with care,<br />so that you don't disturb the<br />bean plants' shallow root systems.<br />If you're planting pole beans,<br />set the trellis or support in<br />position before you plant or at<br />the same time. If you wait until the<br />plants are established, you risk<br />damaging the roots when you set<br />the supports. Make sure the<br />support will be tall enough for the<br />variety of beans you're growing.<br />Pests<br />Beans may be attacked by<br />aphids, bean beetles, flea beetles,<br />leafhoppers, and mites. Aphids,<br />leafhoppers, and mites can be<br />controlled chemically by<br />spraying with Malathion or<br />Diazinon. Bean beetles and flea<br />beetles can be controlled<br />chemically by spraying with<br />carbaryl. Beans are almost always<br />attacked by large numbers of<br />pests that cannot be controlled by<br />organic methods. This does not<br />mean the organic gardener can't<br />grow them, but yields may be<br />lower if only organic controls are<br />used. Detailed information on<br />pest control is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />Diseases<br />Beans are susceptible to blight,<br />mosaic, and anthracnose. You can<br />cut down on the incidence of<br />disease by planting disease-<br />resistant varieties when they're<br />available, maintaining the general<br />health of your garden, and<br />avoiding handling the plants when<br />they're wet. If a plant does<br />become infected, remove and<br />destroy it so it cannot spread<br />disease to healthy plants.<br />Detailed information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />50 to 60 days for bush beans, 60 to<br />90 days for pole beans. Harvest<br />the immature pods, and continue<br />removing the pods before they<br />become mature, or the plant will<br />stop producing. Once the seeds<br />mature, the plant dies. Do not<br />harvest when the weather is<br />very hot or very cold.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Snap beans are a snap to store.<br />They'll keep up to one week in the<br />refrigerator, but don't wash<br />them until you're ready to cook<br />them. You can also freeze, can,<br />dry, or pickle them. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Really fresh, tender snap beans<br />are delicious eaten raw; they make<br />an unusual addition to a platter<br />of crudites for dipping. They're<br />also good lightly cooked and<br />tossed with diced potatoes and a<br />little onion and bacon for a<br />delightful hot bean salad. Try them<br />on toast with a light cheese<br />sauce for lunch. And vary<br />everyone's favorite bean dish by<br />replacing the classic Amandine<br />sauce with a Hollandaise or<br />mushroom sauce. Or try tossing<br />them with a few thinly sliced<br />mushrooms and onions that have<br />been lightly sauteed in butter.<br />You can also cut snap beans in<br />lengths and saute them all<br />together with diced potatoes,<br />carrots, and onions for an<br />interesting vegetable dish. Purists<br />will object that this means<br />cooking the beans too long, but<br />you can always add them<br />halfway through the cooking time<br />to preserve their crispness.<br />Well-seasoned, this is a good,<br />filling, vegetable dish for a cold<br />day. On their own, snap beans take<br />well to many spices, including<br />basil, dill, marjoram, and mint.<br />Common names: bean, lima<br />bean, butter bean, civit bean<br />Botanical name: Phaseolus<br />lunatus<br />Origin: South Mexico, Central<br />America<br />Varieties<br />Bush lima: Burpee Improved<br />Bush (75 days); Fordhook 242 (75<br />days) — both resistant to bean<br />mosaic; Allgreen (67 days);<br />Thorogreen (66 days). Pole lima:<br />King of the Garden (90 days);<br />Prizetaker (90 days).<br />Description<br />This tender, large-seeded<br />annual bean grows as either a bush<br />or a vine. With this type of bean<br />the mature seed is eaten, not the<br />entire pod. Lima beans need<br />warmer soil than snap beans in<br />order to germinate properly,<br />and they need higher<br />temperatures and a longer<br />growing season for a good crop.<br />Bush lima beans are generally<br />easier to handle than pole<br />varieties; bushes grow only one<br />to two feet tall, and they mature<br />earlier. Pole beans require a<br />trellis for support; they grow more<br />slowly, but produce more beans<br />per plant.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Lima beans require warm soil<br />(five days at a minimum<br />temperature of 65°F) to<br />germinate, and should be planted<br />two weeks after the average<br />date of last spring frost. Use the<br />length of your growing season<br />and the number of days the variety<br />takes to mature to figure your<br />latest planting date. If you need<br />to sow before your area's average<br />last frost date, start the seed<br />indoors in peat pots and<br />transplant them when the soil has<br />warmed up. Time your planting<br />so the beans will mature before<br />very hot weather; they will not<br />set pods at temperatures over 80°F.<br />Plant bush beans every two<br />weeks to extend the harvest, or<br />start with bush beans and follow<br />up with pole beans. Because limas<br />need a long stretch of pleasant<br />weather, the slower-growing<br />pole varieties are difficult to raise<br />successfully where the growing<br />season is short.<br />How to plant<br />After the last frost is over,<br />choose a bed in full sunlight;<br />beans tolerate partial shade, but<br />partial shade tends to mean a<br />partial yield. Prepare the soil by<br />mixing in a pound of 5-10-10<br />fertilizer; don't use a high-<br />nitrogen fertilizer, because too<br />much nitrogen will promote<br />growth of the foliage but not of the<br />beans.<br />Plant seeds of all varieties an<br />inch deep. If you're planting bush<br />limas, plant the seeds two<br />inches apart in rows at least 18 to 24<br />inches apart. Seeds of pole<br />beans should be planted four to six<br />inches apart in rows 30 to 36<br />inches apart, or plant them in<br />inverted hills, five or six seeds to<br />a hill, with 30 inches of space<br />around each hill. For pole<br />varieties, set supports or<br />trellises at the time of planting.<br />When the seedlings are<br />growing well, thin the plants to<br />four to six inches apart. Cut the<br />seedlings with scissors at ground<br />level; be careful not to disturb<br />the others. Beans don't mind being<br />a little crowded; in fact, they'll<br />use each other for support.<br />Fertitizing and watering<br />Beans set up a mutual exchange<br />with soil microorganisms called<br />nitrogen-fixing bacteria, which<br />help them produce their own<br />fertilizer. Some gardeners<br />recommend that if you haven't<br />grown beans in the plot before,<br />you should treat the bean seeds<br />before planting with a nitrogen-<br />fixing bacteria inoculant to help<br />them convert organic nitrogen<br />compounds into usable organic<br />compounds. This is a perfectly<br />acceptable practice, but it isn't<br />really necessary; the bacteria in<br />the soil will multiply quickly<br />enough once they've got a<br />growing bean plant to work with.<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Bean seeds may crack and<br />germinate poorly when the<br />moisture content of the soil is<br />too high. Don't soak the seeds<br />before planting, and don't water<br />immediately afterward. Keep the<br />soil moist until the beans have<br />pushed through the ground.<br />Water regularly if there is no<br />rain, but avoid getting water on the<br />flowers; this can cause the<br />flowers and small pods to fall off.<br />You can mulch to conserve<br />moisture when the soil<br />temperature reaches 60°F.<br />Special handling<br />Don't handle bean plants when<br />they're wet or covered with heavy<br />dew; handling or brushing<br />against them when they're wet<br />spreads fungus spores.<br />Cultivate thoroughly but with care,<br />so you don't disturb the bean<br />plants' shallow root systems.<br />If you're planting pole beans,<br />set the trellis or support in position<br />before you plant or at the same<br />time. If you wait until the plants are<br />established, you risk damaging<br />the roots when you set the<br />supports. Make sure the<br />support will be tall enough for the<br />variety of beans you're planting.<br />The large lima bean seed<br />sometimes has trouble pushing<br />through the soil, although this<br />should not happen if the soil is well<br />worked. If your soil tends to<br />cake, you can cover the seeds with<br />sand, vermiculite, or a peat<br />moss/vermiculite mix instead.<br />Pests<br />Beans may be attacked by<br />aphids, bean beetles, flea beetles,<br />leafhoppers, and mites. Aphids,<br />leafhoppers, and mites can be<br />controlled chemically by<br />spraying with Malathion or<br />Diazinon. Bean beetles and flea<br />beetles can be controlled<br />chemically by spraying with<br />carbaryl. Beans are almost always<br />attacked by large numbers of<br />pests that cannot be controlled by<br />organic methods. This doesn't<br />mean the organic gardener can't<br />grow them, but yields may be<br />lower if only organic controls are<br />used. Detailed information on<br />pest control is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />Diseases<br />Beans are susceptible to blight.<br />mosaic, and anthracnose. You can<br />cut down on the incidence of<br />disease by planting disease-<br />resistant varieties when they're<br />available, maintaining the general<br />health of your garden, and<br />avoiding handling the plants when<br />they're wet. If a plant does<br />become infected, remove and<br />destroy it so it cannot spread<br />disease to healthy plants. Detailed<br />information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Parti.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />about 60 to 75 days for bush limas<br />and 85 to 110 days for pole limas.<br />Harvest when the pods are plump<br />and firm; if you leave them too<br />long the beans will get tough and<br />mealy. If you pick the pods<br />promptly, limas will continue to<br />yield until the first frost. In<br />warmer climates, bush limas<br />should give you two or three<br />pickings.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Unshelled lima beans can be<br />kept up to one week in the<br />refrigerator. Shelled lima beans<br />freeze satisfactorily; they can also<br />be canned or dried. Dried<br />shelled limas can be stored in a<br />cool, dry place for 10 to 12<br />months. Detailed information on<br />storing and preserving is given<br />in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Try limas raw for an unusual<br />treat. Serve them in a salad with<br />thinly sliced red onion, parsley,<br />and a vinaigrette dressing, or<br />marinate them for 24 hours in<br />oil, lemon juice, and freshly<br />chopped dill. Cook limas just<br />until tender and serve with a<br />creamy sauce. For a tangy<br />treatment, bake them in a<br />casserole with honey, mustard,<br />and yogurt.<br />Common name: mung bean<br />Botanical name: Phaseolus<br />aureus<br />Origin: India, Central Asia<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available.<br />Grow whichever variety is<br />available in your area, or plant<br />the seeds that are sold for<br />sprouting.<br />Description<br />The mung bean is a bushy<br />annual that grows about 21/2 to<br />three feet tall, and has many<br />branches with typical, hairy,<br />beaniike leaves. The flowers are<br />yellowish-green with purple<br />streaks and produce long, thin,<br />hairy pods containing nine to 15<br />small, yellow seeds. The seeds<br />are used to produce bean sprouts.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Mung beans can be grown in<br />any area of the United States<br />that has 90 days of frost-free<br />temperatures. Plant them on the<br />average date of last frost for your<br />area.<br />How to plant<br />Mung beans grow best in full<br />sun, in a rich well-drained soil.<br />When you're preparing the soil<br />for planting, dig in a complete,<br />well-balanced fertilizer at the<br />rate of one pound per 100 square<br />feet or 10 pounds per 1,000<br />square feet. Because the only<br />seeds you may be able to get are<br />not very reliable in growth, plant<br />the seeds several at a time. Plant<br />them an inch deep and 18 to 20<br />inches apart In wide rows 18 to<br />24 inches apart. When the<br />seedlings are about two inches<br />tall, thin them to leave the<br />strongest of each group<br />growing. Cut off the extra<br />seedlings at ground level to<br />avoid disturbing the survivor's<br />roots.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Beans set up a mutual exchange<br />with soil microorganisms called<br />nitrogen-fixing bacteria, which<br />help them produce their own<br />fertilizer. Some gardeners<br />recommend that if you haven't<br />grown beans in the plot the<br />previous season, you should treat<br />the bean seeds before planting<br />with a nitrogen-fixing bacteria<br />inoculant to help them convert<br />organic nitrogen compounds into<br />usable organic compounds.<br />This is a perfectly acceptable<br />practice but it isn't really<br />necessary; the bacteria in the soil<br />will multiply quickly enough<br />once they've got a growing bean<br />plant to work with.<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Mung beans don't like to dry<br />out between waterings. If it<br />doesn't rain, keep them well-<br />watered.<br />Pests<br />Mung beans have no serious<br />pest problems.<br />Diseases<br />Mung beans have no serious<br />disease problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />It usually takes about 90 to 100<br />days for mung beans to mature,<br />and you can expect one to two<br />pounds of seeds from a 10-foot<br />row. Harvest them as soon as a<br />few of the pods begin to split. If the<br />pods are picked when they are<br />too young they won't store or<br />sprout. Remove the seeds from<br />pods when you harvest them.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Mung beans are usually grown<br />for sprouting. Unshelled beans<br />can be kept up to one week in<br />the refrigerator; shelled beans,<br />naturally dried, can be stored in<br />a cool, dry place for 10 to 12<br />months. Detailed information<br />on storing and preserving is given<br />in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Bean sprouts turn up in all sorts<br />of Chinese dishes. They're good in<br />salads and sandwiches —<br />vegetarians love them, and<br />rightly so, because they have a<br />high Vitamin C content.<br />Common name: beet<br />Botanical name: Beta vulgaris<br />Origin: southern Europe<br />Varieties<br />Early Wonder (53 days);<br />Burpee's Golden (55 days); Ruby<br />Green (56 days); Cylindra, also<br />called Formanova or Tendersweet<br />(60 days); Long Season, also<br />called Winter Keeper (80 days).<br />Description<br />The beet is grown as an annual,<br />although technically it's a<br />biennial. It originated in the<br />Mediterranean, where it existed<br />first as a leafy plant, without the<br />enlarged root we grow it for these<br />days. Swiss chard, which is a<br />bottomless beet, is an improved<br />version of the early, leafy beets.<br />The modern beet has a round or<br />tapered swollen root — red,<br />yellow, or white — from which<br />sprouts a rosette of large leaves.<br />The leaves as well as the root can<br />be eaten.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Beets can tolerate frost and do<br />best in the cooler areas of the<br />country, but they'll go to seed<br />without making roots if the plants<br />get too cold when they're<br />young. Plant beets two to three<br />weeks before the average date<br />of last frost. They're planted as a<br />winter crop in the South. If you<br />live in a hot climate you'll need to<br />pay special attention to watering<br />and mulching to give seedlings a<br />chance to establish themselves.<br />In very hot weather the roots<br />become woody.<br />How to plant<br />Beets can tolerate shade and<br />thrive in well-worked, loose soil<br />that is high in organic matter.<br />They don't like a very acid soil, and<br />they need a lot of potassium.<br />Before planting, work a complete.<br />well-balanced fertilizer into the<br />soil at the rate of one pound per<br />100 square feet or 10 pounds per<br />1,000 square feet. Remove stones<br />and other obstacles, and break<br />up any lumps In the soil that might<br />cause the roots to become<br />malformed.<br />Beets are grown from seed<br />clusters that are slightly smaller<br />than a pea and contain several<br />seeds each. Plant the clusters an<br />inch deep and an inch apart in<br />rows spaced 12 to 18 inches apart.<br />The seedlings may emerge over<br />a period of time so that you've got a<br />group of seedlings of different<br />sizes. Since several seedlings will<br />emerge from each seed cluster,<br />they must be thinned to two to<br />three inches apart when the<br />seedlings develop true leaves. Eat<br />thinned seedlings like spinach;<br />they do not transplant well. Plant<br />all the seed clusters — most<br />seeds store well, but these clusters<br />have only a short period of<br />viability.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Be sure to provide plenty of<br />water for the tender young<br />roots — lack of moisture will<br />result in stringy, tough vegetables.<br />Special handling<br />Cultivate by hand regularly;<br />beets do not like competition from<br />weeds. Take care, because the<br />roots are shallow and easily<br />damaged.<br />Pests<br />Beets have no serious pest<br />problems. They are a good crop for<br />the organic gardener.<br />Diseases<br />Beets have no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />from 40 to 80 days. It takes about 60<br />days for a beet to reach 11/2<br />inches in diameter — a popular<br />size for cooking or pickling —<br />although they'll get bigger<br />quickly if they have plenty of<br />water. Pull them up when<br />they're the size you want. Twist the<br />leaves off rather than cutting<br />them off; this prevents<br />"bleeding," which causes less<br />intense color and, some people<br />claim, less flavor.<br />Storing and preserving<br />You can store beets in the<br />refrigerator for one to three<br />weeks; store the greens in a<br />plastic bag in the refrigerator up to<br />one week.<br />Beets will keep for five to six<br />months in a cold, moist place. You<br />can also freeze, dry, and can<br />both the root and the greens, (use<br />the recipe for "greens"). You<br />can even pickle the root. So there's<br />never any problem figuring<br />what to do with the excess crop.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Beets are more versatile than<br />they're often given credit for. Eat<br />them raw, or serve the tops raw<br />as a salad green — if you don't<br />cook them, you'll retain some of<br />the vitamins normally lost in<br />cooking. If you cook beets in<br />their skins, the skins will slip off<br />readily at the end of the cooking<br />time. Hot, try them dressed with<br />orange juice and topped with a<br />few slivers of green onion, or glaze<br />them with orange marmalade.<br />Or keep the dressing simple: just a<br />little butter, lemon juice, and<br />seasoning. Beets are the basis of<br />the thick, delicious Russian<br />soup called borscht. Serve borscht<br />with a dollop of sour cream.<br />Common names: broccoli, Italian<br />broccoli. Calabrese, brocks<br />Botanical name: Brassica<br />oleracea italica<br />Origin: Mediterranean<br />Varieties<br />Green Comet (40 days);<br />Premium Crop (60 days); Royal<br />Purple Head (90 days, resistant<br />to disease, yellow virus).<br />Description<br />This hardy biennial, grown as an<br />annual, is a member of the<br />cabbage or cole family. It grows<br />11/2 to 21/2 feet tail and looks a bit<br />like a cauliflower that hasn't<br />quite gotten itself together. The<br />flower stalks are green, purple,<br />or white; when it comes to the<br />white-budded ones, the U.S.<br />government has trouble deciding<br />where a broccoli stops and a<br />cauliflower starts. The flowers of<br />all of them are yellow, but<br />they're usually eaten while they're<br />still in bud, before they bloom.<br />Americans didn't discover<br />broccoli until the 1920s, even<br />though this vegetable had been<br />an Old World favorite well before<br />that date.<br />Broccoli has four stages of<br />growth: (1) rapid growth of leaves;<br />(2) formation of the head (which<br />is the part you eat); (3) a resting<br />period while the embryonic<br />blossoms are being formed; and<br />(4) development of the stalk,<br />flowers, and seeds. The head<br />formation stage is essential for<br />the production of the vegetable,<br />but not at all necessary for the<br />survival of the plant. Broccoli that's<br />held in check by severe frost,<br />lack of moisture, or too much heat<br />will bolt, which means it will go<br />directly to seed without bothering<br />to form a head at all.<br />As with other cole family<br />crops, you can grow broccoli in a<br />container on the patio or<br />indoors — a single broccoli plant<br />in an eight-inch flower pot<br />might make a novel houseplant.<br />You can also grow broccoli as an<br />accent in a flower bed.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Broccoli is frost-hardy and can<br />tolerate low 20°F temperatures. It's<br />a cool season crop and does<br />best with day temperatures under<br />80°F and night temperatures<br />20°F lower. Weather that's too cold<br />or too warm will cause the plants<br />to bolt without forming a head.<br />Broccoli will grow in most areas<br />of the United States at one<br />season or another but is not a<br />suitable crop for very hot<br />climates. Time planting so that<br />you'll harvest broccoli during<br />cool weather. In cold-winter areas,<br />plant for summer to early fall<br />harvest. In mild climates, plant for<br />late spring or fall harvest; in the<br />South, plant for harvest in late fall<br />or winter.<br />How to plant<br />Broccoli likes fertile, well-<br />drained soil with a pH within<br />the 6.5 to 7.5 range — this<br />discourages disease and lets the<br />plant make the most of the<br />nutrients in the soil. Broccoli is<br />usually grown from transplants<br />except where there's a long cool<br />period, in which case you can<br />sow seed directly in the garden in<br />fall for winter harvest.<br />When you're preparing the<br />soil for planting, work in a<br />complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10 pounds<br />per 1,000 square feet. If you have<br />sandy soil or your area is subject<br />to heavy rains, you'll probably<br />need to supplement the<br />nitrogen content of the soil. Use<br />about a pound of nitrogen<br />fertilizer for a 10-foot row.<br />Plant transplants that are four<br />to six weeks old with four or five<br />true leaves. If the transplants are<br />leggy or have crooked stems, plant<br />them deeply (up to the first<br />leaves) so they won't grow to be<br />top-heavy. Plant the seedlings<br />18 to 24 inches apart, in rows 24 to<br />36 inches apart. Plan for only a<br />few heads at a time, or plant seeds<br />and transplants at the same time<br />for succession crops — you'll get<br />the same result by planting early<br />and midseason varieties at the<br />same time. If you're planting<br />seeds, set them half an inch deep<br />and three inches apart, and thin<br />them when they're big enough to<br />lift by the true leaves. You can<br />transplant the thinned seedlings.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Broccoli needs abundant soil<br />moisture and cool moist air for the<br />best growth. Cut down on<br />watering as the heads approach<br />maturity.<br />Pests<br />The cabbage family's traditional<br />enemies are cutworms and<br />caterpillars. However, cutworms,<br />cabbage loopers, and imported<br />cabbage worms can all be<br />controlled by spraying with<br />bacillus thuringiensis, an organic<br />product also known as Dipel or<br />Thungicide. Detailed information<br />on pest control is given in<br />"Keeping Your Garden Healthy" in<br />Part 1.<br />Diseases<br />Such cabbage family vegetables<br />as broccoli are susceptible to<br />yellows, clubroot, and downy<br />mildew. Planting resistant<br />varieties, rotating crops from<br />year to year, and maintaining the<br />general health of your garden<br />will cut down on the incidence of<br />disease. If a plant does become<br />infected, remove it before it can<br />spread disease to healthy<br />plants. Detailed information on<br />disease prevention is given in<br />"Keeping Your Garden Healthy" in<br />Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Broccoli grown from seed will<br />take 100 to 150 days to mature, and<br />some transplants can be<br />harvested in 40 to 80 days.<br />Harvesting can continue over a<br />relatively long period. Cut the<br />central head v^ith five to six<br />inches of stem, when the head is<br />well developed and before it<br />begins to loosen and separate — if<br />the small yellow flowers have<br />started to show, it's past the good-<br />eating stage. Leave the base of<br />the plant and some outer leaves to<br />encourage new growth. In many<br />varieties small clusters will grow in<br />the angles of the leaves and can<br />be harvested later.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Broccoli can be stored in the<br />refrigerator up to one week, or in a<br />cold, moist place for two to<br />three weeks. Detailed information<br />on storing and preserving is<br />given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />The good taste of broccoli has<br />been appreciated since way back.<br />Pliny the Elder wrote in the<br />second century that it was much in<br />favor with the Romans. The<br />classically American way to serve<br />broccoli is with a cheese or<br />Hollandaise sauce, au gratin, or in<br />casseroles. It's also delicious<br />raw, broken into flowerets and<br />used in a salad or with a dipping<br />sauce; the small flowerets are<br />decorative on a platter of raw<br />vegetables. If you've got stalks left<br />over after using the head for<br />salads, parboil them and then<br />saute them in oil with a little<br />onion and garlic. To make sure the<br />stems cook adequately without<br />overcooking the tender tops, cook,<br />broccoli like asparagus —<br />upright in a tall pot so that the<br />stems boil and the tops steam.<br />Common names: Brussels<br />sprouts, sprouts<br />Botanical name: Brawsica<br />oleracea gemmifera<br />Origin: Europe, Mediterranean<br />Varieties<br />jade Cross (90 days) is resistant<br />to yellows virus.<br />Description<br />If you've never seen Brussels<br />sprouts outside of a store, you may<br />be quite impressed by the actual<br />plant. Miniature cabbagelike<br />heads, an inch or two in<br />diameter, sprout from a tall, heavy<br />main stem, nestled in among<br />large green leaves. Brussels<br />sprouts belong to the cabbage<br />or cole family and are similar to<br />cabbage in their growing habits<br />and requirements. They're hardy<br />and grow well in fertile soils,<br />and they're easy to grow in the<br />home garden if you follow<br />correct pest control procedures.<br />Don't try growing the Brussels<br />sprout as a houseplant — it's too<br />big to domesticate.<br />Brussels sprouts have four<br />stages of growth: (1) rapid growth<br />of leaves; (2) formation of the<br />heads (which is the part you eat);<br />(3) a resting period while the<br />embryonic blossoms are being<br />formed; and (4) development of<br />the stalk, flowers, and seeds. The<br />head formation stage is<br />essential for the production of the<br />vegetable, but not at all<br />necessary for the survival of the<br />plant. Brussels sprouts that are<br />held in check by severe frost, lack<br />of moisture, or too much heat<br />will bolt, which means that they'll<br />go directly to seed without<br />bothering to form a head at all.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Brussels sprouts are frost-<br />hardy— in fact, they're the most<br />cold-tolerant of the cole family<br />vegetables — and can tolerate low<br />20°F temperatures. Brussels<br />sprouts do best in a cool growing<br />season with day temperatures<br />under 80°F and night temperatures<br />20°F lower. Weather that's too<br />cold for too long or too warm will<br />make them taste bitter; if the<br />sprouts develop in hot weather,<br />they may not form compact<br />heads, but will remain loose tufts<br />of leaves. Brussels sprouts are<br />not a suitable crop for very hot<br />climates, although they will<br />grow in most areas of the United<br />States in one season or another.<br />Time planting so that you harvest<br />Brussels sprouts during cool<br />weather. If your area has cold<br />winters, plant for summer to<br />early fall harvest. In mild climates,<br />plant for late spring or fall<br />harvest. In the South, plant for<br />harvest in late fall or winter.<br />How to plant<br />Brussels sprouts like fertile,<br />well-drained soil with a pH within<br />the 6.5 to 7.5 range — this<br />discourages disease and lets the<br />plant make the most of the<br />nutrients in the soil. They're<br />usually grown from transplants,<br />except where there's a long cool<br />period, in which case seeds are<br />sown directly in the garden in fall<br />for winter harvest.<br />When you're preparing the<br /> <br />soil for planting, work in a<br />complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10 pounds<br />per 1,000 square feet. If you have<br />sandy soil or your area is subject<br />to heavy rains, you'll probably<br />need to supplement the<br />nitrogen content of the soil. Use<br />about a pound of nitrogen<br />fertilizer for a 10-foot row.<br />Plant transplants that are four<br />to six weeks old, with four to five<br />true leaves. If the transplants are<br />leggy or have crooked stems, plant<br />them deeply (up to the first<br />leaves) so they won't grow to be<br />top-heavy. Seedlings should be<br />thinned to 24 inches apart when<br />they're three inches tall. If<br />you're planting seeds, set them a<br />half inch deep, three inches<br />apart in rows 24 to 36 inches apart.<br />Thin them when they're big<br />enough to lift by the true leaves<br />and transplant the thinned<br />seedlings.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Brussels sprouts need<br />abundant soil moisture and cool<br />moist air for the best growth.<br />Cut down on watering as they<br />approach maturity.<br />Special handling<br />If you live in an area with cold<br />winters, pick off the top terminal<br />bud when the plant is 15 to 20<br />inches tall. This encourages all of<br />the sprouts to mature at once.<br />Some gardeners believe that<br />Brussels sprouts develop better'<br />If the lower leaves are removed<br />from the sides of the stalk as the<br />sprouts develop. A few more<br />leaves can be removed each<br />week, but the top leaves should be<br />left intact.<br />Pests<br />The cabbage family's traditional<br />enemies are cutworms and<br />caterpillars. Cutworms,<br />cabbage loopers, and imported<br />cabbage worms can all be<br />controlled by spraying with<br />bacillus thuringiensis, an<br />organic product also known as<br />Dipel or Thungicide. It's<br />especially important to control<br />insects on Brussels sprouts; if<br />they insinuate themselves into the<br />tightly curled sprouts, you'll<br />have a lot of trouble dislodging<br />them. Detailed information on<br />pest control is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />Diseases<br />Cabbage family vegetables may<br />develop yellows, clubroot, or<br />downy mildew. Lessen the<br />incidence of disease by planting<br />disease-resistant varieties when<br />they're available, maintaining the<br />general health of your garden,<br />and avoiding handling the plants<br />when they're wet. If a plant does<br />become infected, remove and<br />destroy it so it cannot spread<br />disease to healthy plants. Detailed<br />information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Parti.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />85 to 95 days for Brussels sprouts<br />grown from seed, 75 to 90 days<br />from transplants. The sprouts<br />mature from the bottom of the<br />stem upward, so start from the<br />bottom and remove the leaves<br />and sprouts as the season<br />progresses. Harvesting can<br />continue until all the sprouts are<br />gone. The leaves can be cooked<br />like collards or cabbage.<br />Storing and preserving<br />If you have sprouts still on the<br />stem in late fall, remove all the<br />leaves from the plant, and hang<br />the plant in a cool dry place; it will<br />give you a late harvest. The plant<br />can be kept up to one month in a<br />cold, moist place. Sprouts will<br />keep for about a week in the<br />refrigerator. Remove loose or<br />discolored outer leaves before you<br />store them, but don't wash<br />them until you're ready to use<br />them. You can also freeze or dry<br />sprouts. Detailed information on<br />storing and preserving is given<br />in Parts.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Sprouts are traditionally served<br />with turkey at an English Christmas<br />dinner. They're also good lightly<br />steamed and served with a lemon-<br />butter sauce. Don't overcook<br />them; young sprouts should be<br />slightly crunchy, and light<br />cooking preserves their delicate<br />flavor. Older sprouts have a<br />stronger taste. Brussels sprouts<br />can also be french fried, baked,<br />or pureed. When you trim them for<br />cooking, cut an X in each stem<br />so that the sprouts cook evenly; be<br />careful not to trim the stem ends<br />too closely or the outer leaves will<br />fall off when you cook them. A<br />walnut in the pot when you cook<br />Brussels sprouts should cut<br />down on the cabbagey smell.<br />Common name: cabbage<br />Botanical name: Brassica<br />oleracea capitata<br />Origin: South Europe<br />Varieties<br />Green: Stovehead (60 days);<br />Jersey Wakefield (63 days); Golden<br />Acre (65 days); Market Prize (73<br />days); Badger Ban Head (98 days);<br />Flat Dutch (105 days). Savoy:<br />Savoy Ace (80 days); Savoy King (85<br />days). Red: Red Acre (76 days);<br />Red Ball (70 days).<br />Description<br />Cabbage, a hardy biennial<br />grown as an annual, has an<br />enlarged terminal bud made of<br />crowded and expanded<br />overlapping leaves shaped into<br />a head. The leaves are smooth or<br />crinkled in shades of green or<br />purple, and the head can be<br />round, flat, or pointed. The<br />stem is short and stubby, although<br />it may grow to 20 inches if the<br />plant is left to go to seed. Cabbage<br />is a hardy vegetable that grows<br />well in fertile soils, and it's easy to<br />grow in the home garden if you<br />choose suitable varieties and<br />follow correct pest control<br />procedures. Like other members<br />of the cabbage or cole family<br />(broccoli and kale are among<br />them), cabbage is a cool-<br />weather crop that can tolerate frosl<br />but not heat.<br />Cabbages have four stages of<br />growth: (1) rapid growth of leaves;<br />(2) formation of the head (which<br />is the part you eat); (3) a resting<br />period while the embryonic<br />blossoms are being formed; and<br />(4) development of the stalk,<br />flowers, and seeds. The head<br />formation stage is essential for<br />the production of the vegetable,<br />but not at all necessary for the<br />survival of the plant. Cabbages thai<br />are held in check by severe<br />frost, lack of moisture, or too<br />much heat will bolt, which<br />means that they will go directly to<br />seed without bothering to form<br />a head at all. And even if the<br />cabbage does make a head, if<br />the weather gets too hot once it<br />reaches that stage, the head can<br />split.<br />Cabbages are decorative in<br />the flower garden; purple<br />cabbages and savoys look good<br />in a mixed border. Flowering<br />cabbages look like enormous<br />variegated blossoms. In small<br />spaces, grow cabbages as an<br />accent in each corner of a flower<br />bed or as a border. Decorative<br />cabbages can be grown in<br />containers on the patio or even<br />indoors. Try growing a single<br />cabbage in an eight-inch<br />flowerpot; choose a flowering<br />cabbage or a small early variety.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Cabbages are frost-hardy and<br />can tolerate low20°F<br />temperatures. They do best in a<br />cool growing season with day<br />temperatures under 80°F and<br />night temperatures 20°F lower. If<br />the plants are cold for too long a<br />period or if the weather is warm,<br />they will bolt without forming a<br />head. If the head has already<br />formed, it will split in hot<br />weather — splitting happens when<br />the plant takes up water so fast<br />that the excess cannot escape<br />through the tightly overlapped<br />leaves, and the head bursts. The<br />cabbage is not a suitable crop<br />for very hot climates, although it<br />will grow in most areas of the<br />United States at one season or<br />another. Time planting so that<br />you harvest cabbage during cool<br />weather. If your areas have cold<br />winters, plant for summer to early<br />fall harvest, in mild climates,<br />plant for late spring or fall harvest.<br />In the South, plant for harvest in<br />late fall or winter.<br />How to plant<br />Cabbages like fertile, well-<br />drained soil with a pH within<br />the 6.5 to 7.5 range — this<br />discourages disease and lets the<br />plant make the most of the<br />nutrients in the soil. When you're<br />preparing the soil for planting,<br />work in a complete, well-balanced ,<br />fertilizer at the rate of one<br />pound per 100 square feet or 10<br />pounds per 1,000 square feet. If<br />you have sandy soil or your area is<br />subject to heavy rains, you'll<br />probably need to supplement the<br />nitrogen content of the soil. Use<br />about a pound of nitrogen<br />fertilizer for a 10-foot row.<br />Cabbages are usually grown from<br />transplants except where<br />there's a long cool period, in which<br />case you can sow seed directly<br />in the garden in fall for winter<br />harvest. Plant transplants that<br />are four to six weeks old with four<br />or five true leaves. If the<br />transplants are leggy or have<br />crooked stems, plant them<br />deeply (up to the first leaves) so<br />they won't grow to be top-<br />heavy. Plant the seedlings 18 to 24<br />inches apart in rows 24 to 36<br />inches apart. Plan for only a few<br />heads at a time, or plant seeds<br />and transplants at the same time<br />for succession crops; you'll get<br />the same result by planting early<br />and midseason varieties at the<br />same time. If you're planting<br />seeds, set them an inch deep<br />and space them three inches apart.<br />Thin them to 18 to 24 inches<br />apart when they're big enough to<br />lift by the true leaves, and<br />transplant the thinned seedlings.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Cabbages need abundant soil<br />moisture and cool air for best<br />growth. Cut down the watering<br />as the heads approach maturity to<br />prevent splitting.<br />Pests<br />The cabbage family's traditional<br />enemies are cutworms and<br />caterpillars. Cutworms,<br />cabbage loopers, and imported<br />cabbage worms can all be<br />controlled by spraying with<br />bacillus thuringiensis, an<br />organic product also known as<br />Dipel or Thungicide. Detailed<br />information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Yellows virus, clubroot fungus,<br />and black rot may attack cabbage.<br />Cut down on the incidence of<br />disease by planting disease-<br />resistant varieties when they're<br />available, maintaining the general<br />health of your garden, and<br />avoiding handling the plants when<br />they're wet. If a plant does<br />become infected, remove and<br />destroy it so it cannot spread<br />disease to healthy plants. Detailed<br />information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Parti.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Cabbages mature in 80 to 180<br />days from seed, depending on the<br />variety, or in 60 to 105 days from<br />transplants. A 10-foot row should<br />give you five to eight heads.<br />Start harvesting before the winter<br />gets too warm, when the head is<br />firm. To harvest, cut off the head,<br />leaving the outer leaves on the<br />stem. Often a few small heads will<br />grow on the stalk, and you can<br />harvest them later.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Cabbage stores well in the<br />refrigerator for one to two weeks,<br />and can be kept for three to four<br />months in a cold, moist place.<br />Cabbage can also be dried, and<br />freezes fairly well; it can be canned<br />as sauerkraut. Cabbage seeds<br />can also be sprouted. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Soggy cabbage is a staple of<br />English childhood reminiscences.<br />Actually, steamed or boiled<br />cabbage is an excellent dish — the<br />secret is to cut it into small<br />pieces before you cook it so that it<br />cooks fast and evenly. Or try<br />braising it in a heavy-bottomed pan<br />with butter and just a little<br />water; toss a few caraway seeds<br />over it before serving. Sweet<br />and sour red cabbage is an<br />interesting dish. Stuffed<br />cabbage leaves are delicious, and<br />cabbage makes a good addition<br />to soup — the leaves add an<br />additional texture to a hearty,<br />rib-sticking winter soup. The Irish<br />traditionally serve cabbage with<br />corned beef, and a British<br />combination of cooked cabbage<br />and mashed potatoes sauteed<br />together is known as "bubbleand-<br />squeak." French country<br />cooks stuff a whole cabbage<br />with sausage, then simmer it with<br />vegetables — aversion known<br />as chou farci. One way or another,<br />there's a lot more to cabbage<br />than coleslaw.<br />Common name: cardoon<br />Botanical name: Cynara<br />cardunculus<br />Origin: Europe<br />Varieties<br />Large Smooth; Large Smooth<br />Spanish; Ivory White Smooth.<br />Grow any variety available in<br />your area.<br />Description<br />Cardoon is a tender perennial<br />grown as an annual for its young<br />leaf-stalks, which are blanched<br />and eaten like celery. It looks like a<br />cross between burdock and<br />celery but is actually a member of<br />the artichoke family and has the<br />same deeply cut leaves and heavy,<br />bristled flower head. Cardoon<br />can grow to four feet tall and two<br />feet wide, so it will need plenty<br />of space in your garden.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Cardoon will grow anywhere in<br />the United States. Plant it from<br />transplants in the spring.<br />How to plant<br />Transplants should be moved to<br />the garden three to four weeks<br />after the average date of last<br />frost in your area, so if you're<br />growing your transplants from<br />seed you'll need to start them six<br />weeks ahead of your planting<br />date. Cardoon prefers full sun but<br />can tolerate partial shade and<br />grows quickly in any well-drained,<br />fertile soil. When you're<br />preparing the soil, dig in a<br />complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10 pounds<br />per 1,000 square feet. Space the<br />young plants 18 to 24 inches<br />apart, with 36 to48 inches between<br />the rows.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Part 1.<br />Allow the plants to dry out<br />between waterings.<br />Special handling<br />Cardoon is usually blanched to<br />improve the flavor and to make it<br />more tender — the stalks can<br />get very tough. Blanch when the<br />plant is about three feet tall, four<br />to six weeks before harvesting. Tie<br />the leaves together in a bunch<br />and wrap paper or burlap around<br />the stems, or hill up the soil<br />around the stem.<br />Pests<br />Aphids may be a problem. Pinch<br />out infested foliage or hose the<br />aphids off the cardoon plants.<br />Control aphids chemically with<br />Malathion or Diazinon. Detailed -•<br />information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Cardoon has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />Cylindrical (six to seven inches):<br />Nantes Coreless (68 days);<br />Harvest the plants four to six<br />When and how to harvest<br />Tuchon Pioneer (75 days); Royal<br />weeks after blanching. Cut them<br />Cross Hybrid (70 days). Standard<br />off at ground level and trim off<br />(seven to nine inches):<br />the outer leaves. Tendersweet (75 days); Spartan<br />Bonus {77 days); Gold Pak (75<br />days); Imperator (75 days).<br />Storing and preserving<br />Keep stalks on root, wrap, and<br />Description<br />refrigerate; they will keep for one<br />to two weeks. The plants can be<br />kept for two to three months in a<br />Carrots are hardy biennials<br />cold, moist place. Cardoon<br />grown as annuals. They have a<br />freezes fairly well and can be<br />rosette of finely divided fernlike<br />canned or dried; handle it like<br />leaves growing from a swollen,<br />celery. Detailed information on<br />fleshy taproot. The root, which<br />storing and preserving is given<br />varies in size and shape, is<br />in Part 3.<br />generally a tapered cylinder that<br />grows up to 10 inches long in<br />different shades of orange.<br />Until the 20th century and the<br />Cut the stalks into sections and<br />Serving suggestions<br />discovery of mechanical<br />parboil them until tender — the<br />refrigeration techniques, root<br />time will depend on the size of<br />crops like carrots were almost<br />the stalks. Serve cardoon stalks cut<br />the only vegetables available in the<br />into pieces and chilled with an<br />winter. They are cool-weather<br />oil and vinegar dressing, or hot<br />crops and tolerate the cold;<br />with a cream sauce. Dip chunks<br />they're easy to grow and have<br />into batter and deep-fry them. The<br />few pest problems, so they're<br />Italians are fond of cardoon.<br />good crops for the home<br />gardener. The carrots we grow<br />today originated in the<br />Mediterranean. By the 13th<br />century the Europeans were<br />well aware of the carrot's food<br />value. The first settlers brought<br />them to America, and the<br />Indians were quick to recognize<br />their potential.<br />Common name: carrot<br />There are all sorts of carrots —<br />Botanical name: Daucus carota<br />long, short, fat, thin — but<br />Origin: Europe, Asia<br />basically they differ only in size and<br />shape. However, the sort of soil<br />you have will influence which<br />variety you choose. The shorter<br />Short (two to four inches): varieties will better tolerate heavy<br />Goldinhart (60-65 days); Amstel Minipak (60-65 days); Tiny soil; the long types are more<br />(60-65 days); Gold Nugget (60-65 Sweet (60-65 days). Half-iong (five particular about their<br />days); Sweet and Short (60-65 to six inches): Danvers Half-environment. Finger carrots can<br />days). Finger (three to four long (75 days); Royal Chantenay be satisfactorily grown in<br />inches): Little Finger (60-65 days); (70 days); Gold King (70 days). containers.<br />Varieties<br />where and when to grow<br />Carrots are a cool-weather crop<br />and fairly adaptable. Plant them in<br />spring and early summer for a<br />continuous crop, starting two to<br />three weeks after the average<br />date of last frost. Although carrots<br />are tolerant of cold, the seeds<br />take a long time to germinate, and<br />when they're planted in cold,<br />raw weather they may give up<br />before they come up. Starting<br />two to three weeks before the<br />average date of last frost for your<br />area, plant successive crops every<br />two to three weeks until three<br />months before the average date of<br />first fall frost.<br />How to plant<br />Carrots need a cool bed. They<br />prefer full sun but will tolerate<br />partial shade. Before planting,<br />work half a cup of low nitrogen<br />(5-10-10) fertilizer into the soil,<br />and turn the soil thoroughly to a<br />depth of about 10 or 12 inches.<br />This initial preparation is vital for a<br />healthy crop; soil lumps, rocks,<br />or other obstructions in the soil<br />will cause the roots to split, fork,<br />or become deformed.<br />Sow the seeds in rows 12 to 24<br />inches apart. Wide-row planting of<br />carrots gives a good yield from a<br />small area. When you're planting<br />in early spring, cover the seeds<br />with a quarter to a half inch of soil.<br />Later, when the soil is dryer and<br />warmer, they can be planted a little<br />deeper. When the seedlings are<br />growing well, thin to two to four<br />inches apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />To keep carrots growing<br />quickly, give them plenty of water.<br />As they approach maturity,<br />waterless — too much moisture at<br />this stage will cause the roots to<br />crack.<br />Special handling<br />In areas with high soil<br />temperatures, mulch to regulate<br />the soil temperature;<br />otherwise, the roots will grow<br />short and pale. Carrot seedlings<br />grow slowly while they're young,<br />and it's important to control<br />weeds especially during the first<br />few weeks. Shallow cultivation<br />is necessary to avoid damaging<br />the roots.<br />Pests<br />Carrots have no serious pest<br />problems. They're a good crop for<br />the organic gardener.<br />Diseases<br />Carrots have no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />from 55 to 80 days, depending on<br />the variety. Small finger carrots<br />are usually ready to harvest in 60<br />days or less; other varieties<br />need longer. When you think<br />they're ready, pull a few<br />samples to check on their size. If<br />they're three quarters inch thick<br />or more (for regular varieties),<br />they're ready to harvest. Pull<br />them up by hand, or use a spading<br />fork to lift them gently out of the<br />ground. Pull carrots when the soil<br />is moist — if you try to pull them<br />from hard ground you'll break the<br />roots.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Carrots are most obliging<br />vegetables when it comes to<br />preservation — most methods<br />can be used. They'll store for one<br />to three weeks in plastic bags or<br />aluminum foil in the refrigerator,<br />or for four to five months in a<br />cold, moist place. They can also be<br />canned, frozen, or dried.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Carrots fresh from the garden<br />are wonderful raw. Shredded raw<br />carrots are delicious with a<br />touch of oil and lemon; or add<br />raisins and fresh pineapple for<br />an exotic flavor. Add shredded<br />carrots to a peanut butter<br />sandwich. Carrot cake is a staple<br />American confection; try it with<br />a cream cheese frosting. There are<br />any number of ways to cook<br />carrots; perhaps the best<br />treatment for very young fresh<br />carrots is simply to boil them and<br />toss with a respectful touch of<br />butter. You can also try them<br />boiled, then rolled in<br />breadcrumbs and deep-fried, or<br />served with a marmalade glaze.<br />Most herbs complement the taste<br />of carrots; parsley is the most<br />common, but try cooked carrots<br />and peas with a touch of mint to<br />enhance the flavor.<br />Common name: cauliflower<br />Botanical name: Brassica<br />oleracea botrytis<br />Origin: Europe, Mediterranean<br />Varieties<br />Super Snowball (55 days);<br />Snowball Imperial (58 days);<br />Snowball M (59 days); Self-<br />Blanche (70 days); Greenball (95<br />days); Royal Purple (95 days).<br />Description<br />Cauliflower is a single-stalked,<br />half-hardy, biennial member of the<br />cole or cabbage family. It's<br />grown as an annual, and the edible<br />flower buds form a solid head<br />(sometimes called a curd), which<br />may be white, purple, or green.<br />Cauliflower and broccoli are easy<br />to tell apart until you meet a<br />white-flowered broccoli or a green<br />cauliflower. Both also come in<br />purple, and even the U.S.<br />Department of Agriculture can't<br />always tell one from the other.<br />Cauliflowers are prima donnas<br />and need a lot of the gardener's<br />attention. Mark Twain<br />described a cauliflower as a<br />cabbage with a college<br />education.<br />Cauliflower has four stages of<br />growth: (1) rapid growth of leaves;<br />(2) formation of the head (which<br />is the part you eat); (3) a resting<br />period while the embryonic<br />blossoms are being formed; and<br />(4) development of the stalk,<br />flowers, and seeds. The head<br />formation stage is essential for<br />the production of the vegetable,<br />but not at all necessary for the<br />survival of the plant. Cauliflower<br />that's held in check by severe<br />frost, lack of moisture, or too<br />much heat will bolt, which<br />means that it will go directly to<br />seed without bothering to form<br />a head at all.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Cauliflower is more restricted<br />by climatic conditions than other<br />cole family vegetables like<br />cabbage or broccoli. It's less<br />adaptable to extremes of<br />temperature; it doesn't like cold<br />weather, won't head properly if<br />it's too hot, and doesn't tolerate<br />dry conditions as well as<br />broccoli.<br />Cauliflower needs two cool<br />months in which to mature and is<br />planted for spring and fall crops<br />in most areas. Plant for a winter<br />crop if your winters are mild. For<br />a spring crop, plant transplants<br />four to six weeks before the<br />average date of the last frost in<br />your area. If you're growing<br />your own transplants from seed,<br />start them about six weeks<br />before your outdoor planting date.<br />How to plant<br />Cauliflower likes fertile, well-<br />drained soil with a pH within the<br />6.5 to 7.5 range — this<br />discourages disease and lets the<br />plant make the most of the<br />nutrients in the soil. Like other<br />cole crops, it's usually grown<br />from transplants except where<br />there is a long cool period, in<br />which case you can sow seed<br />directly in the garden in fall for<br />winter harvest. When you're<br />preparing the soil for planting,<br />work in a complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one<br />pound per 100 square feet or 10<br />pounds per 1,000 square feet. If<br />you have sandy soil or your area<br />is subject to heavy rains, you will<br />probably need to supplement<br />the nitrogen content of the soil.<br />Use about a pound of high-<br />nitrogen fertilizer for a 10-foot<br />row. Plant transplants that are<br />four to six weeks old, with four or<br />five true leaves. If the<br />transplants are leggy or have<br />crooked stems, plant them<br />deeply (up to the first leaves) so<br />they won't grow to be top-<br />heavy.<br />Plant the seedlings 18 to 24<br />inches apart in rows 24 to 36 inches<br />apart. Plan for only a few heads<br />at a time, or plant seeds and<br />transplants at the same time for<br />succession crops; you'll get the<br />same result by planting early<br />and midseason varieties at the<br />same time. If you're planting<br />seeds, set them half an inch deep<br />and space them three inches<br />apart. Thin them when they're big<br />enough to lift by the true leaves,<br />and transplant the thinned<br />seedlings.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Abundant soil moisture and<br />cool moist air are needed for the<br />best growth; do not let the<br />ground dry out. The plants must be<br />kept growing vigorously; if<br />growth is interrupted by heat,<br />cold, damage, or lack of water,<br />the head will not form properly.<br />Special handling<br />Cultivate cauliflower regularly<br />to diminish weed competition and<br />prevent a crust from forming on<br />the soil's surface. Take care not to<br />damage the roots.<br />The objective with cauliflower<br />is to achieve a perfect head, with all<br />the flowerets pressed tightly<br />together. Unless it's supposed to<br />be green or purple, the color<br />should be untinged creamy-white,<br />and too much sun or rain can<br />damage the head. To prevent this,<br />you blanch (whiten) it. Blanch<br />the cauliflower when it gets to be<br />about the size of an egg, by<br />gathering three or four leaves and<br />tying them together over the<br />head. If you secure the leaves with<br />colored rubber bands you can<br />keep track of cauliflowers tied at<br />different times. Check the<br />heads occasionally for pests that<br />may be hiding inside. The self-<br />blanching cauliflower doesn't<br />need to be tied, but it will not<br />blanch in hot weather. Blanching<br />cauliflower is a cosmetic<br />procedure; the flavor is not<br />significantly improved, as is<br />celery's, by blanching.<br />Pests<br />The cabbage family's traditional<br />enemies are cutworms and<br />caterpillars, and cauliflower is<br />particularly susceptible to them.<br />However, cutworms, cabbage<br />loopers, and imported cabbage<br />worms can all be controlled by<br />spraying with bacillus<br />thuringiensis, an organic<br />product also known as Dipel or<br />Thungicide. Detailed<br />information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Cauliflower may be susceptible<br />to root rots; the first indication of<br />this disease is yellowing of the<br />leaves. Cut down on the incidence<br />of disease by planting disease-<br />resistant varieties when they're<br />available, maintaining the<br />general health of your garden, and<br />avoiding handling the plants<br />when they're wet. If a plant does<br />become infected, remove and<br />destroy it so it cannot spread<br />disease to healthy plants.<br />Detailed information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />55 to 100 days for cauliflower<br />grown from transplants and 85<br />to 130 days for cauliflower grown<br />from seed. Under good growing<br />conditions the head develops<br />rapidly to about six or eight<br />inches in diameter. The mature<br />head should be compact, firm,<br />and white. Cut the whole head<br />from the main stem. The leaves<br />can be cooked like collards or<br />cabbage.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Unwashed and wrapped in<br />plastic, cauliflower can be stored<br />for up to one week in the<br />refrigerator, or for two to three<br />weeks in a cold, moist place.<br />Cauliflower freezes satisfactorily<br />and can also be dried or used in<br />relishes or pickled. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Boil the whole cauliflower head<br />just until the base yields to the<br />touch of a fork. Add lemon juice<br />to the boiling water to preserve the<br />curd's whiteness. Coat the head<br />with a light cheese sauce or simply<br />with melted butter and parsley.<br />Tartar sauce is an original<br />accompaniment to cauliflower,<br />or sprinkle it with browned<br />breadcrumbs for a crunchy<br />texture. The flowerets can be<br />separated, too, and french<br />fried. Raw cauliflower lends a<br />distinctive flavor to salads and is<br />good served with other raw<br />vegetables with a mustard- or<br />curry-flavored dip. Cauliflower<br />pickles are good, too.<br />Common names: celeriac,<br />turnip-rooted celery, celery<br />root, knob celery<br />Botanical name: Apium<br />graveolens rapaceum<br />Origin: Europe and Africa<br />Varieties<br />Alabaster (120 days); Giant<br />Prague (120 days).<br />Description<br />Celeriac is a form of celery, a<br />member of the same family, and<br />similar in growing habits and<br />requirements. Its physical<br />characteristics and culinary<br />uses, however, are quite different.<br />The edible root of celeriac is<br />large and swollen, like a turnip,<br />and develops at soil-level; a<br />rosette of dark green leaves<br />sprouts from the root. The<br />stems are hollow. The French and<br />Germans are more accustomed<br />than Americans to celeriac; it's<br />commonly used In stews or<br />eaten raw.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Celeriac does best in cool<br />weather and especially enjoys cool<br />nights. To grow celeriac, start in<br />spring in the North, in late summer<br />in the South. In the North, start<br />from transplants; the seeds are<br />very slow to germinate. Plant<br />them on the average date of last<br />frost; set the plants six to eight<br />inches apart in rows 24 to 30 inches<br />apart. In the South you can grow<br />celeriac from seed. Sometimes a<br />second crop is grown by<br />seeding directly outdoors in<br />spring. Plant the seeds a quarter<br />inch deep in rows 24 to 30 inches<br />apart, and when the seedlings<br />are large enough to handle, thin<br />them to six to eight inches apart.<br />How to plant<br />Celeriac tolerates light shade<br />and prefers rich soil that is high in<br />organic matter, well able to hold<br />moisture but with good drainage.<br />It needs constant moisture and<br />does well in wet locations. It's a<br />heavy feeder and needs plenty<br />of fertilizer to keep it growing<br />quickly. When you're preparing<br />the soil for planting, work in a<br />complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10 pounds<br />per 1,000 square feet.<br />If you're sowing seeds for<br />transplants start indoors two to<br />four months before your<br />estimated planting date — the<br />seeds germinate slowly. Cover<br />the seeds with an eighth of an inch<br />of soil, and then lay a material<br />like burlap over the containers to<br />keep the moisture in.<br />Transplant carefully. To give the<br />seedlings a good start, plant<br />them in a trench three to four<br />inches deep. Space the<br />seedlings eight to 10 inches apart<br />in rows two feet apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Part 1.<br />Frequent watering is<br />important; celeriac, like celery, is<br />shallow-rooted, and a lack of<br />soil moisture can stop its growth. ^<br />Keep the top few inches of soil<br />moist at all times.<br />Special handling<br />Celeriac cannot compete with<br />weeds. Cultivate conscientiously,<br />but be careful not to disturb the<br />shallow roots. As the tuber<br />develops, snip off the side roots<br />and hill up the soil over the swollen<br />area for a short time to blanch<br />the tubers. The outer surface will<br />be whitened, but the interior<br />will remain a brownish color.<br />Pests<br />Celeriac has no serious pest<br />problems; it's a good vegetable for<br />the organic gardener.<br />Diseases<br />Celeriac has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />110 to 120 days from seed. A 10-foot<br />row should give you 16 to 20<br />roots. Pick off the lower leaves —<br />you can use them to flavor soups<br />and stews. Harvest celeriac when<br />the swollen root is three to four<br />inches wide. In warmer climates,<br />harvest the roots when they're<br />about the size of a baseball.<br />Celeriac increases in flavor after<br />the first frost, but should be<br />harvested before the first hard<br />freeze.<br />Storing and preserving<br />You can dry the leaves to use as<br />an herb in soups and stews. Keep<br />the roots in the refrigerator up<br />to one week, or store them in a<br />cold, moist place for two to<br />three months. They will keep in<br />the ground in areas where freezing<br />weather is not a problem. You<br />can also freeze the roots; handle<br />them like turnips. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Peel, dice, and cook celeriac<br />roots; then marinate them in<br />vinegar and oil, seasoned to<br />your taste. Or shred the raw roots,<br />dress them with a light<br />vinaigrette, and add them to a<br />salad. Celeriac makes an<br />interesting addition to any<br />luncheon.<br />Common name: celery<br />Botanical name: Apium<br />graveolens dulce<br />Origin: Europe<br />Varieties<br />Summer Pascal (115 days);<br />Golden Plume (118 days); Utah 52-<br />70 (125 days).<br />Description<br />Celery is a hardy biennial grown<br />as an annual. It has a tight rosette of<br />eight- to 18-inch stalks, topped<br />with many divided leaves. The<br />flowers look like coarse Queen<br />Anne's lace and are carried on tall<br />stalks. Celery is a more popular<br />vegetable in this country than its<br />cousin celeriac (which it doesn't<br />resemble at all in looks or taste).<br />Both are members of the parsley<br />family, to which dill and fennel also<br />belong, and probably<br />originated in Mediterranean<br />countries. Celery had been used<br />earlier for medicinal purposes, but<br />the French were probably the<br />first to use it as a vegetable,<br />somewhere around 1600. It was<br />brought from Scotland to<br />Michigan, where it was grown<br />by Dutch farmers during the last<br />half of the 19th century, and was<br />not produced commercially in the<br />United States until the 1870s. It's<br />a versatile vegetable — you can eat<br />the stalks, leaves, and seeds —<br />but it needs a lot of attention,<br />and it's not an easy crop for the<br />home gardener.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Celery does best in cool<br />weather and especially enjoys cool<br />nights. Cold weather will inhibit<br />growth. Grow celery in spring in<br />the North, planting transplants<br />two to three weeks before the<br />average date of last frost, or in<br />the late summer in the South.<br />Celery seeds are very slow to<br />germinate, so it's usually more-<br />satisfactory to use transplants.<br />How to plant<br />Celery tolerates light shade and<br />prefers rich soil that is high in<br />organic matter, well able to hold<br />moisture but with good drainage;<br />it does well in wet, almost boggy<br />locations. It's a heavy feeder and<br />needs plenty of fertilizer for<br />continuous quick growth. When<br />you're preparing the soil for<br />planting, work in a complete, well-<br />balanced fertilizer at the rate of<br />one pound per 100 square feet or<br />10 pounds per 1,000 square feet.<br />If you're sowing seeds for<br />transplants, start them two to<br />four months before your<br />estimated planting date — they<br />germinate slowly. Cover the seeds<br />with an eighth inch of soil, and<br />then lay a material like burlap over<br />the containers to keep the<br />moisture in. Transplant them in<br />trenches three to four inches<br />deep and two feet apart. Space the<br />seedlings eight to 10 inches<br />apart, and as they grow mound the<br />soil up around them to blanch<br />the stems. Having the plants fairly<br />close together will also help<br />blanching.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Make sure that the plants get<br />plenty of water at all stages of<br />growth. Celery is a moisture-<br />loving plant, and lack of water may<br />slow growth and encourage the<br />plant to send up flower stalks — it<br />will also get very stringy.<br />Special handling<br />Celery does not like<br />competition from weeds during<br />the slow early growth stage, so<br />cultivate regularly, taking care to<br />avoid damage to the roots,<br />which are close to the soil surface.<br />Unlike cauliflower, which is not<br />much affected in flavor by<br />blanching or whitening, celery<br />will be bitter if it isn't blanched.<br />Blanching is achieved by<br />covering the plants to protect them<br />from the sun, which encourages<br />them to produce chlorophyll and<br />turn green. This should be<br />started 10 days to two weeks<br />before harvesting.<br />There are a number of<br />blanching methods to choose<br />from, but none of them should<br />be left on more than 10 days to two<br />weeks or the celery stalks will<br />become pithy and rot. Soil can be<br />mounded around each side of<br />the celery row and built up to the<br />tops of the stalks. Or use boards<br />tilted to shade the celery plants.<br />Heavy paper — freezer paper or<br />layers of newspaper — can also be<br />used; wrap it around each plant<br />and fasten it with a rubber band.<br />You can also place milk cartons<br />with the top and bottom cut out<br />over the plant, or gather the<br />stalks together and fit cylinder-<br />shaped tiles over the tops of the<br />plants.<br />Pests<br />It's some consolation for all the<br />work growing celery demands that<br />the crop has no serious pest<br />problems. This means it's a good<br />choice for the conscientious<br />organic gardener.<br />Diseases<br />Pink rot, black heart, and blights<br />can all attack celery. Magnesium<br />and calcium in the soil<br />discourage these conditions, and<br />with adequate fertilizing you<br />shouldn't have a problem. If you<br />do, check the mineral content<br />of your soil. Detailed information<br />on disease prevention is given<br />in "Keeping Your Garden Healthy"<br />in Parti.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />100 to 130 days from transplants,<br />about 20 days longer from seed.<br />A10-footrowshouldyieldabout20<br />heads of celery. Start harvesting<br />before the first hard frost, when<br />the head is about two to three<br />inches in diameter at the base. Cut<br />off the head at or slightly below<br />soil level.<br />Storing and preserving<br />You can refrigerate celery for up<br />to two weeks; or if you cut the<br />leaves to use as herbs, you can<br />keep the leaves in the refrigerator<br />up to one week. Celery can be<br />dried or canned, and it freezes<br />fairly well; or you can store it for<br />two to three months in a cold,<br />moist place. The leaves and<br />seeds are used as herbs; follow the<br />procedures given in "How To<br />Store and Use Herbs." Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Celery is versatile. You can eat<br />the stems, the leaves, and the<br />seeds. The stems can be boiled,<br />braised, fried, or baked; most<br />people are more accustomed to<br />celery as a raw salad vegetable or<br />relish, but celery is great<br />creamed or baked au gratin. And<br />what could be more elegant<br />than cream of celery soup? The<br />leafy celery tops that most<br />people throw out can be made into<br />a refreshing drink. Boil and<br />strain them, chill the liquid, and<br />drink it by itself or combined<br />with other vegetable juices.<br />Common names: chard, Swiss<br />chard, sea kale, Swiss beet, sea<br />kale beet<br />Botanical name: Beta vulgaris<br />cicia<br />Origin: Europe, Mediterranean<br />Varieties<br />Lucullus (50 days); Fordhook<br />Giant (60 days); Rhubarb (60 days).<br />Description<br />Chard is basically a beet without<br />the bottom. It's a biennial that's<br />grown as an annual for its big<br />crinkly leaves. Chard is a<br />decorative plant; with its juicy<br />red or white leaf stems and rosette<br />of large, dark green leaves, it<br />can hold its own in the flower<br />garden. It's also a rewarding<br />crop for the home vegetable<br />gardener — it's easy-going and<br />very productive. If you harvest the<br />leaves as they grow, the plant<br />will go on producing all season.Chard<br />has an impressive<br />history, too; it was a popular<br />foodstuff even before the days<br />of the Roman Empire.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Chard prefers cool<br />temperatures; high temperatures<br />slow down leaf production, but<br />chard tolerates heat better than<br />spinach does. In a mild climate<br />you can plant chard from fall to<br />early spring; in the North, plant<br />from spring to midsummer.<br />How to plant<br />Plant chard from seed clusters<br />(which each contain several seeds)<br />about the average date of last<br />frost in your area. Chard tolerates<br />partial shade and likes fertile,<br />well-worked soil with good<br />drainage and a high organic<br />content; like the beet, it is not fond<br />of acid soil. Work a complete,<br />well-balanced fertilizer into the<br />soil before planting, at the rate<br />of a pound per 100 square feet or 10<br />pounds per 1,000 square feet.<br />Plant the seed clusters an inch<br />deep and four to six inches apart<br />in rows 18 to 24 inches apart. When<br />they're large enough to handle,<br />thin seedlings to stand about nine<br />to 12 inches apart. Although you<br />are growing from seed clusters,<br />each of which is likely to<br />produce several seedlings,<br />thinning is not as important as it<br />is when you're growing beets,<br />which must have ample room for<br />root development. Chard plants<br />can stand crowding — they'll<br />produce smaller leaves but<br />more of them. A few extra plants<br />will also give you replacements<br />for any that bolt or go to seed in hot<br />weather. Remove any plants<br />that bolt, and let the others grow.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />The crop does need enough<br />water to keep the leaves growing<br />quickly, so keep the soil moist at<br />all times.<br />Pests<br />Aphids and leaf miners are the<br />major pests you'll have to contend<br />with. You can usually control<br />aphids by pinching out the<br />affected area; if there are a lot of<br />them, try hosing them off the<br />plants. Leaf miners, wormlike<br />insects that feed inside the leaf<br />surfaces, can also be controlled<br />physically; pick off the older leaves<br />where you see that miners have<br />laid rows of pearl-white eggs.<br />Detailed information on pest<br />control is given in "Keeping Your<br />Garden Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Chard has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />55 to 60 days. A 10-foot row of<br />chard should give you nine<br />pounds or more of produce. Start<br />harvesting chard when the<br />outside leaves are three inches<br />long; don't let them get much<br />over 10 inches long or they'll taste<br />earthy. Some gardeners like to<br />take off the outside leaves a few at a<br />time; others prefer to cut the<br />entire plant down to three inches<br />and let it grow back. Chard will<br />grow and produce steadily all<br />summer, and if the soil is fertile<br />and the weather doesn't get too<br />cold, harvesting may continue<br />into a second year.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Chard can be stored for one to<br />two weeks in the refrigerator. It<br />can also be frozen, canned, or<br />dried; use the recipes for greens.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Chard is delicious steamed or<br />cooked like spinach. The leaves<br />have a sweet taste like spinach,<br />and they're colorful in a salad.<br />Chard stalks can be cooked like<br />celery. Cut them into pieces two or<br />three inches long and simmer<br />them until tender; serve them hot<br />with butter or chilled with a light<br />vinaigrette. If you're cooking the<br />leaves and stalks together, give<br />the stalks a five-minute head start<br />so that both will be tender at the<br />end of the cooking time.<br />Common names: chayote,<br />chocho, chuchu, sou-sou,<br />vegetable pear, one-seeded<br />cucumber<br />Botanical name: Sechium edule<br />Origin: Central America<br />Varieties<br />Plant whatever variety is<br />available. You plant the whole<br />vegetable so you can use the<br />chayote you buy in the local<br />Spanish mercado.<br />Description<br />The chayote is a tender<br />perennial vine that grows from a<br />tuber and can climb to 30 feet.<br />It's a member of the gourd family,<br />and it has hairy leaves the size<br />and shape of maple leaves; male<br />and female flowers are borne on<br />the same vine. The fruit looks like a<br />greenish or whitish flattened<br />pear. You can eat the young<br />shoots, the fruit, and, if the<br />plant lives long enough, the<br />tubers. Chayote is very popular<br />in Mexico and Central America; it<br />also has a place in American<br />Creole cooking.<br />Where and when to grow<br />The chayote prefers warm to hot<br />temperatures and cannot survive<br />temperatures below freezing.<br />California, Texas, and Florida have<br />the sort of climate the chayote<br />enjoys, but it can be grown farther<br />north if the growing season is<br />long. In areas where the season is<br />short, chayote can be grown in a<br />pot inside and then set out in the<br />soil or kept in a pot and brought<br />back inside when the weather<br />turns cold.<br />How to plant<br />You plant the whole fruit with<br />the fat side placed at an angle half<br />way down in the soil so that the<br />stem area is level with the soil<br />surface. Before planting, work a<br />complete, well-balanced fertilizer<br />into the soil at the rate of one<br />pound per 100 square feet or 10<br />pounds per 1,000 square feet.<br />The chayote likes well-drained soil<br />with a high content of organic<br />matter and will tolerate partial<br />shade. Space the plants 24 to 30<br />inches apart, with four or five feet<br />between rows. You don't need<br />to provide a support for the vines<br />unless you want to save space.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Give the chayote plants plenty<br />of water to keep them growing<br />strongly.<br />Pests<br />Aphids may visit your chayote<br />vines. Hand-pick or hose them off,<br />or control them chemically by<br />spraying with Malathion or<br />Diazinon. Detailed information<br />on pest control is given In<br />"Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Chayote has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />120 to 150 days. Cut the chayote off<br />the vine while the fruit is young<br />and tender; don't wait until the<br />flesh gets hard.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Chayotes will keep in the<br />refrigerator up to one week.<br />Freeze your extra chayotes<br />either diced or stuffed like squash.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given In Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Chayote can be prepared any<br />way you prepare squash. Chayote<br />Is best eaten young and tender.<br />If It overripens, scoop out the<br />flesh, remove the seed (a large<br />seed, in what looks like a terry<br />cloth bag), mash the flesh with<br />cheese or meat, restuff the empty<br />shell and bake. The tubers of<br />very mature plants are edible and<br />filling, but not very flavorful.<br />Common names: chick pea,<br />gram, garbanzo<br />Botanical name: Cicerarietinum<br />Origin: southern Europe and<br />India<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available; grow<br />the variety available in your area.<br />Description<br />Chick peas or garbanzos are<br />regarded as beans, but their<br />botanical place is somewhere<br />between the bean and the pea.<br />They're tender annuals and<br />grow on a bushy plant, rather like<br />snap beans but they have a<br />longer growing season. Chick peas<br />have puffy little pods that<br />contain one or two seeds each. In<br />some areas they're grown as a<br />field crop as a food for horses, but<br />they're good food for people,<br />too.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Chick peas are tender plants<br />and can't tolerate much cold — a<br />hard frost will damage the<br />immature beans. You can grow<br />them anywhere in the United<br />States that has 90 to 100 frost-free<br />days. Plant chick peas from seed<br />on the average date of last frost for<br />your area.<br />How to plant<br />Choose a bed in full sunlight;<br />chick peas tolerate partial shade,<br />but partial shade tends to mean<br />a partial yield. Prepare the soil by<br />mixing in a pound of 5-10-10<br />fertilizer — don't use a high-<br />nitrogen fertilizer, because too<br />much nitrogen will promote<br />growth of foliage but not of the<br />pods. Work the fertilizer into<br />the soil at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10<br />pounds per 1,000 square feet. The<br />seeds may crack and germinate<br />poorly when the moisture content<br />of the soil is too high. Don't soak<br />the seeds before planting, and<br />don't overwater immediately<br />afterward. Plant seeds an inch<br />deep and two inches apart in rows<br />at least 18 to 24 inches apart.<br />When the seedlings are growing<br />well, thin the plants to four to six<br />inches apart. Cut the seedlings<br />with scissors at ground level; be<br />careful not to disturb the others.<br />They don't mind being a little<br />crowded; in fact, they'll use each<br />other for support.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Chick peas set up a mutual<br />exchange with soil<br />microorganisms called<br />nitrogen-fixing bacteria, which<br />help them produce their own<br />fertilizer. Some gardeners<br />recommend that if you haven't<br />grown beans in the plot the<br />previous season, you should<br />treat the seeds before planting<br />with a nitrogen-fixing bacteria<br />inoculant to help them convert<br />organic nitrogen compounds<br />into usable organic compounds.<br />This is a perfectly acceptable<br />practice but it isn't really<br />necessary; the bacteria in the<br />soil will multiply quickly enough<br />once they've got a growing plant<br />to work with.<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Keep the soil moist until the<br />chick peas have pushed through<br />the ground. Water regularly if<br />there's no rain, but remember that<br />water on the flowers can cause<br />the flowers and small pods to fall<br />off. When the soil temperature<br />reaches 60°F you can mulch to<br />conserve moisture.<br />Special handling<br />Don't bother the plants when<br />they're wet or covered with heavy<br />dew; handling or brushing<br />against them when they're wet<br />spreads fungus spores.<br />Cultivate thoroughly but with care,<br />so that you don't disturb the<br />bean plants' shallow root systems.<br />Pests<br />Chick peas may be attacked by<br />aphids, bean beetles, flea beetles,<br />leafhoppers, and mites. Aphids,<br />leafhoppers, and mites can be<br />controlled chemically by<br />spraying with Malathion or<br />Diazinon. Bean beetles and flea<br />beetles can be controlled<br />chemically by spraying with<br />carbaryl. Chick peas are almost<br />always attacked by large<br />numbers of pests that cannot be<br />controlled by organic methods.<br />This doesn't mean the organic<br />gardener can't grow them, but<br />yields may be lower if only organic<br />controls are used. Detailed<br />information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Chick peas are susceptible to<br />blight, mosaic, and anthracnose.<br />You can cut down on the<br />incidence of disease by planting<br />disease-resistant varieties when<br />they're available, maintaining the<br />general health of your garden,<br />and avoiding handling the plants<br />when they're wet. If a plant does<br />become infected, remove and<br />destroy it so it cannot spread<br />disease to healthy plants. Detailed<br />information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Parti.<br />When and how to harvest<br />If you want to eat them raw, pick<br />chick peas in the green shell or<br />immature stage. For drying,<br />harvest the chick peas when the<br />plants have matured and the<br />leaves have turned completely<br />brown. At this time the seeds<br />should be dry and hard — bite a<br />couple of seeds; if you can<br />hardly dent them they're properly<br />dry and ready to harvest.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Unshelled chick peas can be<br />kept up to one week in the<br />refrigerator. You can freeze,<br />can, or dry the shelled chick peas,<br />and they can also be sprouted.<br />Dried shelled chick peas can be<br />stored in a cool, dry place for 10<br />to 12 months. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Shelled chick peas can be<br />steamed or boiled like peas, or<br />roasted like peanuts. Vegetarian<br />cooks often use chick peas with<br />grains as a protein-rich meat<br />substitute. In the Middle East<br />they're pureed with garlic,<br />lemon juice, and spices.<br />Common names: chicory,<br />witloof, French endive, Belgian<br />endive, succory<br />Botanical name: Cichorium<br />intybus<br />Origin: Asia, Europe<br />Varieties<br />For chicory root: Brunswick;<br />Magdeburg; Zealand. For Belgian<br />endive: Witloof.<br />Description<br />Chicory is a hardy perennial<br />with a long, fleshy taproot and a<br />flower stalk that rises from a<br />rosette of leaves. It looks much like<br />a dandelion except that the<br />flowers grow on a branched stalk<br />and are pale blue.<br />Chicory is grown either for its<br />root, which can be roasted to<br />produce a coffee substitute, or<br />for its tender leaf shoots, which are<br />known as Belgian or blanched<br />endive. This plant is not to be<br />confused with endive or<br />escarole, which are grown as salad<br />greens. Both chicory and endive<br />belong to the same family, and the<br />names are often used<br />interchangeably, but they aren't<br />the same plant. If you want to<br />produce the chicory root or the<br />Belgian endive, you grow<br />chicory (Cichorium intybus) — you<br />can eat the leaves, but that's not<br />why you're growing the variety. If<br />you're growing specifically for<br />greens, you grow endive<br />(Cichorium endivia).<br />Chicory has two stages of<br />development. The first produces<br />the harvestable root. In the<br />second stage, you harvest the root<br />and bury it upright in damp sand<br />or soil until it produces sprouts or<br />heads of pale, blanched leaves;<br />these heads are the Belgian<br />endives. Once you've harvested<br />the heads, you can still use the<br />roots, although they won't be as<br />satisfactory as roots grown<br />specifically for their own sake.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Chicory is very hardy, tolerates<br />cold, and can be grown for Its roots<br />anywhere in the United States.<br />Since the second stage that<br />produces the heads takes place<br />after harvesting, climate is not an<br />issue. Plant chicory seeds in the<br />garden two to three weeks before<br />the average date of last frost for<br />your area.<br />How to plant<br />Chicory tolerates partial shade.<br />The soil should be well-drained,<br />high in organic matter, and free<br />of lumps that might cause the roots<br />to fork or split. Work a<br />complete, well-balanced fertilizer<br />into the soil before planting, at<br />the rate of one pound per 100<br />square feet or 10 pounds per<br />1,000 square feet. Plant the seeds<br />an inch deep in rows 24 to 36<br />inches apart, and thin them to 12 to<br />18 inches apart when the<br />seedlings are four inches tall. You<br />can eat the thinnings.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed Information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Keep the plants evenly moist.<br />Special handling<br />If chicory is planted in well-<br />cultivated soil that's rich in organic<br />matter, it should develop large<br />roots. If you're growing the plants<br />for the roots alone, they'll be<br />ready to harvest about 120 days<br />after planting. If you want to<br />produce the blanched heads,<br />follow this procedure. Before<br />the ground freezes, dig up the<br />chicory roots and cut off the<br />tops about two inches above the<br />crown or top of the root. Store<br />the roots in a cool, humid<br />place — an outdoor pit or a root<br />cellar. In winter and spring, bury<br />the roots to "force" them and<br />produce the blanched sprouts —<br />for a continuous supply repeat<br />the procedure every few weeks.<br />To prepare the roots for<br />forcing, cut off the tips so that the<br />roots are six to eight inches<br />long, and pack them upright in a<br />box, pot, or other container<br />filled with fine sand or a mixture of<br />sand and peat moss. Cover the<br />tops of the roots with seven or<br />eight inches of sand or sawdust,<br />water thoroughly, and keep at a<br />temperature of 60° to 70°F. Put<br />them in your basement or in a cold<br />frame or trench in the garden.<br />You may need to water<br />occasionally during the three or<br />four weeks the heads take to<br />develop. When the heads break<br />the surface, remove the potting<br />material and cut the heads with a<br />knife where they meet the root.<br />Pests<br />Chicory has no serious pest<br />problems. It's a good crop for the<br />organic gardener who doesn't<br />mind doing the extra work that<br />chicory requires in its second<br />stage of growth.<br />Diseases<br />Chicory has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />It takes more than 100 days to<br />produce a mature chicory root. For<br />the traditional blanched endive,<br />you'll have to wait three or four<br />weeks after starting the forcing<br />procedure. You should be able to<br />get 30 to 50 blanched heads from<br />a 10-foot row of chicory plants.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Refrigerate the cut heads until<br />you're ready to serve them, up to<br />one week. You can keep the<br />entire plant — root and all — for<br />two to three months in a cold,<br />moist place, or you can dig up the<br />roots and store them for 10 to 12<br />months. Detailed information on<br />storing is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />The roots of chicory are<br />sometimes roasted and ground to<br />add to coffee or used as a coffee<br />substitute. Wash and dice the root,<br />then dry it and roast it before<br />grinding. Blanched endive heads<br />are good braised or in salads.<br />Mix endive with peppers,<br />artichoke hearts, and sardines<br />for an Italian-style salad, or with<br />olives, cucumbers, anchovies,<br />and tomato wedges in the Greek<br />manner.<br />Common names: Chinese<br />cabbage, white cabbage,<br />flowering cabbage, celery<br />cabbage, pakchoy, Michihii,<br />Napa cabbage<br />Botanical name: Brassica<br />chinensis<br />Origin: China<br />Varieties<br />Burpee Hybrid (75 days); Crispy<br />Choy (pakchoy type, 53 days);<br />Michihii (heading type, 72 days).<br />Description<br />Chinese cabbage is a hardy<br />biennial grown as an annual, and<br />it's not a member of the cabbage<br />family. It has broad, thick, tender<br />leaves; heavy midribs; and can<br />be either loosely or tightly headed<br />and grow 15 to 18 inches tall. The<br />variety with a large compact heart<br />is called celery cabbage,<br />pakchoy, or Michihii. In Chinese,<br />call \tpe-tsai; in Japanese, say<br />hakusai. Despite the name, the<br />appearance and taste of<br />Chinese cabbage are closer to<br />lettuce than to regular cabbage.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Chinese cabbage can be grown<br />only in cool weather, because it<br />bolts (goes to seed) quickly in<br />hot weather and long days — it<br />bolts much faster than the<br />cabbage family vegetables. It's<br />usually grown as a fall crop in<br />the North and as a winter crop in<br />the South. It can be started<br />inside and transplanted outside in<br />the spring, but Chinese cabbage<br />shocks easily, and transplanting<br />sometimes shocks it into going<br />to seed.<br />How to plant<br />Chinese cabbage is difficult to<br />grow in the home garden unless<br />you can give it a long, cool<br />growing season. Plant it four to six<br />weeks before your average date<br />of last frost. Even if the first fall frost<br />arrives before the head forms<br />you'll still get a crop of greens.<br />Chinese cabbage will tolerate<br />partial shade. The soil should be<br />well-worked and well-fertilized,<br />high in organic matter and able to<br />hold moisture. When you're<br />preparing the soil for planting,<br />work in a complete, well-<br />balanced fertilizer at the rate of<br />one pound per 100 square feet<br />or 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet.<br />Sow seeds in rows 18 to 30<br />inches apart, and when the<br />seedlings are large enough to<br />handle, thin them to stand eight to<br />12 inches apart. Don't even<br />attempt to transplant Chinese<br />cabbage unless you've started<br />the seeds in peat pots or other<br />plantable containers.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Water frequently to help the<br />young plants grow fast and<br />become tender. They'll<br />probably go to seed if their growth<br />slows down.<br />Pests<br />Flea beetles, aphids, and<br />cabbage worms make Chinese<br />cabbage difficult to grow<br />without spraying. Aphids can be<br />partially controlled without<br />chemicals by hand-picking or<br />hosing, and cabbage worms can<br />be controlled by spraying with<br />bacillus thuringiensis, which is<br />an organic product. Flea beetles<br />usually must be chemically<br />controlled with carbaryl, which<br />will also control cabbage loopers.<br />Detailed information on pest<br />control is given in "Keeping Your<br />Garden Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Yellows virus, clubroot, and<br />black rot may attack Chinese<br />cabbage. Cut down on the<br />incidence of disease by planting<br />disease-resistant varieties when<br />they're available, maintaining the<br />general health of your garden,<br />and avoiding handling the plants<br />when they're wet. If a plant does<br />become infected, remove and<br />destroy it so it cannot spread<br />disease to healthy plants. Detailed<br />information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Parti.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />50 to 80 days, and a 10-foot row<br />should give you 10 or more<br />heads. Harvest when the heads are<br />compact and firm and before<br />the seedstalks form. With a fall<br />crop, harvest before hard-<br />freezing weather. To harvest, cut<br />off the whole plant at ground<br />level.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Chinese cabbage stays fresh in<br />the refrigerator up to one week, or<br />in a cold, moist place for two to<br />three months. You can also freeze<br />or dry it, and the seeds of<br />Chinese cabbage can be sprouted.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Chinese cabbage has a very<br />delicate, mild flavor, more<br />reminiscent of lettuce than of<br />cabbage. It makes an interesting<br />slaw, with a sour cream dressing<br />and a little chopped pineapple. Or<br />serve it in wedges like cabbage.<br />Of course, the ideal use is in<br />Chinese stir-fry dishes and<br />soups. Try shredding the Chinese<br />cabbage with a bit of carrot,<br />flavoring it with ginger and soy<br />sauce, and dropping it in<br />spoonfuls into oil in the wok. It's<br />crunchy and delicious. You can<br />also butter-steam Chinese<br />cabbage as an accompaniment<br />to roast pork, or use the leaves to<br />make cabbage rolls.<br />Common name: collards<br />Botanical name: Brassica<br />oleracea acephalo<br />Origin: Europe<br />Varieties<br />Georgia (75 days); Vates (75<br />days).<br />Description<br />A hardy biennial grown as an<br />annual, the collard grows two to<br />four feet tall and has tufts or<br />rosettes of leaves growing on<br />sturdy stems. Collard is a kind of<br /> <br />kale, a primitive member of the<br />cabbage family that does not<br />form a head. The name collard is<br />also given to young cabbage<br />plants that are harvested before<br />they have headed. Collards<br />were England's main winter<br />vegetable for centuries.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Like other members of the cole<br />or cabbage family, collards are<br />hardy and can tolerate low20°F<br />temperatures. They're also more<br />tolerant of heat than some cole<br />crops; they can take more heat<br />than cabbage and more cold<br />than cauliflower. In the South, get<br />ahead of the warm weather by<br />planting collards in February or<br />March. In the North, you can get<br />two crops by planting in early<br />spring and again in July or<br />August.<br />How to plant<br />Collards like fertile, well-<br />drained soil with a pH within the<br />6.5 to 7.5 range — this<br />discourages disease and lets the<br />plant make the most of the<br />nutrients in the soil. Collards are<br />usually grown from transplants<br />planted four to six weeks before<br />the average date of last frost,<br />except where there is a long cool<br />period; in this case you can sow<br />seed directly in the garden in fall<br />for a winter harvest.<br />When you're preparing the<br />soil for planting, work in a<br />complete well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10 pounds<br />per 1,000 square feet. If you have<br />sandy soil or your area is subject<br />to heavy rains, you'll probably<br />need to supplement the<br />nitrogen content of the soil. Use<br />about a pound of nitrogen<br />fertilizer for a 10-foot row.<br />If you're planting seeds, set<br />them an inch deep and space them<br />three inches apart. Thin them<br />when they're big enough to lift by<br />the true leaves. You can<br />transplant the thinned seedlings. If<br />you're planting transplants,<br />they should be four to six weeks<br />old with four or five true leaves.<br />If the transplants are leggy or have<br />crooked stems, plant them<br />deeply (up to the first leaves) so<br />that they won't grow to be top<br />heavy. Plant the seedlings 12<br />inches apart in rows 18 to 24<br />inches apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Part 1.<br />Water them regularly to keep<br />the leaves from getting tough.<br />Special handling<br />If collard plants get too heavy<br />you may need to stake them.<br />Pests<br />The cabbage family's traditional<br />enemies are cutworms and<br />caterpillars. Cutworms,<br />cabbage loopers, and imported<br />cabbage worms can all be<br />controlled by spraying with<br />bacillus thuringiensis, an<br />organic product also known as<br />Dipel or Thungicide. Generally,<br />collards have fewer pest problems<br />than other cole crops. They are<br />one of the best and most prolific<br />crops for the organic gardener.<br />Detailed information on pest<br />control is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Collards have no serious<br />disease problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />75 to 85 days from transplants, 85 to<br />95 days from seed. A 10-foot row<br />should yield eight pounds or more<br />of collard greens. Collards<br />become sweeter if harvested after<br />a frost, but you should harvest<br />them before a hard freeze. In<br />warmer areas, harvest the leaves<br />from the bottom up before they<br />get old and tough.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Collards can be stored in the<br />refrigerator up to one week, or in a<br />cold, moist place for two to<br />three weeks. Collards can be<br />frozen, canned, or dried; use<br />the recipes for greens. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Collards can be steamed or<br />boiled; serve them alone or<br />combine them with ham or salt<br />pork. Corn bread is a nice<br />accompaniment.<br />Common names: corn, sweet<br />corn<br />Botanical name: Zea mays<br />Origin: Central America<br />Varieties<br />A large number of varieties are<br />available. Your local extension<br />service can give you suggestions<br />for the best corn to grow in your<br />area. These are just a few of the<br />good varieties available: Polar Vee<br />(55 days); Sugar and Gold (white<br />and yellow kernels, 60 days);<br />Earliking (66 days); Butter and<br />Sugar (white and yellow kernels, 78<br />days); Golden Cross Bantam (84<br />days). For late crops, try Aristogold<br />Bantam Evergreen (90 days) or<br />Silver Queen (92 days).<br />Description<br />Corn, a tender annual that can<br />grow four to 12 feet tall, is a<br />member of the grass family. It<br />produces one to two ears on a<br />stalk, of which only one may be<br />harvestable. The pollen from the<br />tassels must fall into the cornsilk<br />to produce kernels, and if<br />pollination does not occur, all<br />that will grow is the cob. The<br />kernels of sweet corn can be<br />yellow, white, black, red, or a<br />combination of colors. Corn is<br />the No. 1 crop in the United States<br />and (with rice, wheat, and<br />potatoes) one of the top four crops<br />in the world. But despite the<br />popularity of sweet corn and<br />popcorn, most corn is eaten<br />secondhand — 80 percent of the<br />United States corn crop goes<br />into the production of meat. Corn<br />is not the easiest crop to grow in<br />your home vegetable garden, and<br />it doesn't give you a lot of return<br />for the space it occupies. Don't be<br />taken in by all that lush<br />foliage — you will generally get<br />only one harvestable ear of corn<br />from a stalk, although some dwarf<br />varieties will produce two or<br />three.<br />Where and when to grow<br />You can grow corn in any area,<br />but the time it will take to reach<br />maturity depends on the<br />amount of heat it gets; corn<br />doesn't really get into its stride<br />until the weather warms up. You<br />may get two crops, depending<br />on which variety you plant.<br />How to plant<br />Corn likes well-worked, fertile<br />soil with good drainage, and it<br />must have full sun. Fertilize the<br />soil before planting, using a third<br />of a pound of a complete, well-<br />balanced fertilizer on each side of a<br />10-foot row. Place the fertilizer<br />an inch below and two inches away<br />from where you plan to put the<br />seed.<br />Plant corn when the soil<br />temperature reaches 60°F. Plant<br />the seeds two to four inches<br />apart, in rows (short rows in a<br />block, rather than one long row)<br />or inverted hills. Planting In<br />clumps or blocks ensures<br />pollination. For a continuous<br />supply, plant a dozen seeds of<br />the same variety every two weeks<br />(or when the previous planting<br />shows three leaves), or plant early,<br />midseason, and late varieties at<br />the same time. When the corn is<br />about six inches tall, thin short<br />varieties to two feet apart, tall<br />varieties to three feet apart.<br />Corn can be grown closer together<br />than this, but then the roots are<br />more crowded and more watering<br />and feeding are needed.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Corn is a heavy user of nitrogen.<br />Fertilize in spring, again when the<br />corn is eight inches tall, and<br />again when it's 18 inches tall. Side-<br />dress between the rows, using a<br />third pound of complete, well-<br />balanced fertilizer on each side<br />of a 10-foot row. Detailed<br />information on fertilizing is given<br />in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Watering is very important.<br />Keep the soil evenly moist. Corn<br />often grows so fast in hot<br />weather that the leaves wilt<br />because the roots can't keep the<br />leaves supplied with moisture.<br />Although corn requires so much<br />water, rain or water on the tassels<br />at the time of pollination can<br />reduce the number of kernels on a<br />cob — and sometimes can<br />destroy the whole crop. When<br />watering corn, try to avoid<br />getting water on the tassels.<br />Special handling<br />Keep the competition down.<br />Weed early and keep the weeds<br />cut back, but remember that<br />corn has very shallow roots; a<br />vigorous attack on the weeds<br />may destroy the corn. Be sure to<br />thin extra corn plants —<br />crowding stimulates lots of<br />silage, but no cobs. Protect the<br />ears with paper bags after<br />pollination if you're having trouble<br />with birds.<br />Pests<br />Corn is attacked by many<br />pests — notably cutworms,<br />wireworms, flea beetles, corn<br />earworms, and corn borers — and<br />they usually attack In numbers<br />too large to control by physical<br />methods. Be prepared to use<br />the appropriate insecticide at the<br />first signs of insect damage.<br />Cutworms and wireworms can be<br />controlled with a soil drench of<br />Diazinon. Spray flea beetles with<br />carbaryl when they first appear.<br />The corn earworm deposits its<br />eggs on the developing silks of<br />the corn, and the small caterpillars<br />follow the silks down into the<br />ears, where they feed on the tips.<br />Once they get inside the ear<br />there is no effective control, so<br />watch out for them and spray<br />with carbaryl before the earworms<br />get inside the protective cover<br />of the ear. Corn borers damage<br />stalks, ears, and tassels. They<br />tunnel into the plant and can cause<br />such severe damage that the<br />stalks fall over. Watch for them,<br />and spray with carbaryl every<br />five days, starting when the first<br />eggs hatch.<br />Raccoons and most rodents<br />love corn and know exactly when<br />to harvest it — usually the day<br />before you plan to. Removing the<br />offenders' homes and fencing in<br />the garden are about the only ways<br />to deter them. Because it takes<br />up so much room and has so many<br />pest problems, corn is not the<br />ideal choice for either the organic<br />gardener or the novice<br />gardener. But for the experienced<br />gardener with lots of room and a<br />good spray tank, there's nothing<br />like the taste of fresh, homegrown<br />sweet corn. Detailed<br />information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Corn smut and Stewart's wilt are<br />corn's two main disease problems.<br />Corn smut is a fungus disease<br />that attacks the kernels — the<br />kernels turn gray or black and<br />are about four times larger than<br />normal. Destroy the affected<br />plants, and plant your corn in a<br />new part of the garden next<br />time. Smut spores can survive in<br />the soil for two years. Stewart's<br />wilt is a bacterial disease spread by<br />flea beetles. It causes a general<br />yellowing of the leaves and severe<br />stunting of the whole plant. Try<br />to prevent It by planting resistant<br />varieties and controlling flea<br />beetles when they first appear.<br />Detailed information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />From planting to harvest takes<br />55 to 95 days depending on the<br />variety and, to some extent, the<br />weather. Your harvest won't be<br />generous — maybe five to eight<br />ears from a 10-foot row. Harvest<br />your corn when the kernels are<br />soft and plump and the juice is<br />milky. Have the water boiling<br />when you go out to harvest and<br />rush the corn from the stalk to<br />the pot, then to the table. The goal<br />is to cook the corn before the<br />sugar in the kernels changes to<br />starch. A delay of even 24 hours<br />between harvesting and eating will<br />cause both flavor and texture to<br />deteriorate noticeably.<br />Storing and preserving<br />If you must keep corn before<br />eating, wrap the whole thing, ear<br />and husk, in damp paper towels;<br />store in the refrigerator for four<br />to eight days. Corn can be<br />sprouted, and it also freezes,<br />cans, and dries satisfactorily.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving Is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />After you've given your homegrown<br />corn all that care and<br />attention — to say nothing of a<br />good deal of your garden space —<br />it is almost unthinkable to do<br />anything with It beyond boiling or<br />steaming it quickly and<br />annointing it with a dab of butter.<br />You can also roast it in the husks<br />In a hot oven or on the barbecue<br />grill. If you have lots, make a<br />delicate corn soup or souffle.<br />Common names: cress, garden<br />cress, peppergrass<br />Botanical name: Lepidium<br />sativum<br />Origin: Asia<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available<br />commercially; grow the variety<br />available in your area.<br />Description<br />Cress is a hardy annual with<br />finely divided tiny green leaves<br />that have a biting flavor. You can<br />grow cress from seed indoors or<br />out — it will even sprout on<br />water-soaked cotton. It takes only<br />15 to 20 days from planting to<br />harvest, which means more or less<br />instant gratification for the least<br />patient gardener. Children love to<br />grow it.<br />Cress has a peppery flavor<br />that gives a lift to salads. There are<br />several kinds available, but the'<br />curled variety is the most common.<br />Other types of cress are<br />upland or winter cress (Barbarea<br />vernapraecox) and watercress<br />(Nasturtium officinale). Upland or<br />winter cress (Barbarea<br />vernapraecox) is a hardy biennial<br />from Europe. You can sow it in<br />the garden in early spring and<br />harvest soon after midsummer.<br />The plants are tough and will<br />survive a cold winter if you<br />mulch them.<br />Watercress is a trailing<br />perennial of European origin with<br />dark green peppery leaves and<br />is usually grown in water. It's easily<br />grown from seed but is usually<br />propagated in temperate climates<br />from stem-pieces, which root<br />easily in wet soil. If you're<br />fortunate enough to have a<br />stream running through your<br />garden, you can try growing<br />watercress on the bank. You can<br />also grow it indoors in pots set in<br />a tray of water. Watercress adds a<br />kick to salads and makes a pretty<br />garnish. It's full of vitamin C and<br />minerals.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Cress grows anywhere in the<br />United States. Garden cress,<br />which is the one you're most likely<br />to grow, is started from seeds<br />sown every two weeks starting<br />early in spring.<br />How to plant<br />When sown outdoors, cress<br />likes well-worked soil with good<br />drainage. It will flourish in<br />shade or semishade and can<br />tolerate a wide range of<br />temperatures. When you're<br />preparing the soil, dig in a<br />complete, well-balanced fertilizer<br />at the rate of one pound per 100<br />square feet or 10 pounds per 1,000<br />square feet. Sow the seeds<br />thickly,aquarterof an inch deep in<br />wide rows, 18 to 24 inches apart,<br />and for a continuous crop repeat<br />the planting every 10 to 14 days.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Part 1.<br />Cress needs even moisture.<br />Try not to wet the leaves more than<br />necessary since the soil that<br />lodges there when water splashes<br />on them is impossible to wash<br />out without damaging the leaf.<br />Cress grown indoors must have<br />good drainage or it tends to rot.<br />Pests<br />Cress has no serious pest<br />problems.<br />Diseases<br />Cress has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />How and when to harvest<br />Often the plants are eaten at<br />their very early seed-leaf stage.<br />Cut off the cress with scissors<br />and enjoy in salads or<br />sandwiches.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Cress does not store well, but it<br />can be kept in the refrigerator up<br />to one week. The seeds can be<br />sprouted. Detailed information on<br />storing is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />The English nibble "small<br />salads" of cress and mix the young<br />sprouts with mustard for dainty<br />cress sandwiches. Use it in salads<br />or for a garnish. The peppery<br />taste is a good foil to more bland<br />salad greens.<br />Common name: cucumber<br />Botanical name: Cucumis sativus<br />Origin: Asia<br />Varieties<br />There are dozens of varieties of<br />cucumber, including "burpless"<br />ones, which are supposed to be<br />more digestible than regular<br />cucumbers, and round yellow<br />lemon cucumbers. In the<br />United States cucumbers are<br />divided into the slicing kind,<br />which are large and stay green for a<br />long time, the small stubby<br />pickling varieties, and novelty<br />varieties that are smaller than<br />usual and suitable for containers or<br />small gardens.<br />The following are a selection<br />of varieties in each of these<br />categories. Talk to your local<br />extension service to find out about<br />other varieties that will do well<br />in your area. Pickling: Spartan<br />Dawn Hybrid (50-60 days); SMR18<br />(50-60 days), both resistant to<br />mosaic and scab. Slicing:<br />Poinsett (65 days) resistant to<br />anthracnose, downy and<br />powdery mildews, and leaf spot;<br />Burpee Hybrid (60 days)<br />resistant to downy mildew and<br />mosaic; Challenger Hybrid (60<br />days), resistant to downy mildew<br />and mosaic. Burpless: Sweet<br />Slice Hybrid (65 days) resistant<br />to downy and powdery mildews,<br />mosaic, and scab. Novelty: Patio<br />Pik Hybrid (50-55 days) pickling<br />type, tolerant of downy and<br />powdery mildews; Peppi Hybrid<br />(50 days) pickling type, tolerant<br />of downy and powdery mildews,<br />mosaic, and scab.<br />Description<br />Cucumbers are weak-stemmed,<br />tender annuals that can sprawl on<br />the ground or be trained to<br />climb. Both the large leaves and<br />the stems are covered with short<br />hairs; the flowers are yellow. Some<br />plants have both male and<br />female flowers on the same vine,<br />and there may be 10 males to<br />every female flower, but only the<br />female flowers can produce<br />cucumbers. The expression "cool<br />as a cucumber" has long been<br />used to describe a person who is<br />always calm in a crisis, and<br />cucumbers do seem to give off a<br />cool feeling. They're tender<br />plants, however, and not at all<br />tolerant to cold themselves.<br />Gulliver, in the report of his<br />voyage to Brobdingnag, told of a<br />project for extracting sunbeams<br />from cucumbers, sealing them<br />in jars, and letting them out to<br />warm the air on raw days. Long<br />before Gulliver, the Emperor<br />Tiberius was so fond of<br />cucumbers that the first<br />greenhouses — sheets of mica<br />in window sashes — were<br />developed to keep the plants<br />growing on happily indoors when<br />it was too cold to take them<br />outside. You can grow cucumbers<br />in a large pot or hanging basket,<br />or train them up a fence or over an<br />arbor.<br />Where and when to grow<br />The cucumber is a warm-<br />weather vegetable and very<br />sensitive to frost. It will grow<br />anywhere in the United States,<br />however, because it has a very<br />short growing season — only 55 to<br />65 days from planting to<br />harvest — and most areas can<br />provide it with at least that much<br />sunshine. Cucumbers like night<br />temperatures of 60° to 65°F, and<br />day temperatures up to 90°F. Plant<br />them when the soil has warmed<br />up, three to four weeks after your<br />area's average date of last frost.<br />How to plant<br />Cucumbers will tolerate partial<br />shade, and respond to a rich, well-<br />worked, well-drained soil that is<br />high in organic matter. When<br />you're preparing the soil, dig in<br />a complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one<br />pound per 100 square feet or 10<br />pounds per 1,000 square feet.<br />Plant cucumbers in inverted hills,<br />which you make by removing an<br />inch or two of soil from a circle 12<br />inches across and using this soil<br />to make a rim around the circle.<br />This protects the young plants<br />from heavy rains that might wash<br />away the soil and leave their<br />shallow roots exposed. Plant six or<br />eight seeds in each hill, and<br />when the seedlings are growing<br />strongly, thin them, leaving the<br />three hardiest plants standing six<br />to 12 inches apart. Cut the<br />thinned seedlings off with scissors<br />at soil level to avoid disturbing<br />the roots of the remaining plants.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Cucumbers are 95 percent<br />water and need plenty of water to<br />keep them growing fast. Don't<br />let the soil dry out. In hot weather<br />the leaves may wilt during the<br />day, even when soil moisture is<br />high, because the plant is using<br />water faster than its roots can<br />supply. This is normal; just be<br />sure that the plant is receiving<br />regular and sufficient water.<br />Mulch to avoid soil compaction<br />caused by heavy watering.<br />Special handling<br />Cultivate to keep weeds down.<br />If you are growing cucumbers<br />inside, or in an area where there<br />are no insects to pollinate the<br />female flower — your 51st floor<br />balcony, for example — you may<br />need to help with pollination.<br />Take a soft-bristled brush and dust<br />the inside of a male flower (the<br />one without an immature fruit on<br />the stem), then carefully dust<br />the inside of the female flowers.<br />Harvest promptly; mature<br />cucumbers left on the vine<br />suppress the production of<br />more flowers.<br />Pests<br />Aphids and cucumber beetles<br />are the pests you're most likely to<br />encounter. To control aphids,<br />pinch out infested vegetation or<br />hose them off the cucumber<br />vines, or spray with Malathion or<br />Diazinon. Cucumber beetles<br />may not do much feeding damage,<br />but they carry cucumber<br />bacterial wilt. Hand-pick them off<br />the vines promptly, or spray<br />them with carbaryl. Cucumbers<br />are so prolific that the organic<br />gardener who doesn't want to use<br />chemical controls can afford to<br />lose a few to the bugs. Detailed<br />information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Cucumber plants are<br />susceptible to scab, mosaic, and<br />mildew. Planting disease-<br />resistant varieties and maintaining<br />the general cleanliness and<br />health of your garden will help cut<br />down the incidence of disease.<br />If a plant does become infected,<br />remove and destroy it before it<br />can spread disease to healthy<br />plants. Cucumbers are not<br />tolerant to air pollution; a high<br />ozone level may affect their<br />development. Detailed<br />information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />55 to 65 days, and a 10-foot row<br />should give you as many<br />cucumbers as you can use. Pick the<br />cucumbers while they're<br />immature — the size will depend<br />on the variety. When the seeds<br />start to mature the vines will stop<br />producing.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Cucumbers can be stored in the<br />refrigerator up to one week, but if<br />the temperature is too low<br />they'll freeze and turn soft. You<br />can pickle them or use them for<br />relish if they're the right variety.<br />Detailed information on<br />storing and preserving is given in<br />Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />In the Gay '90s the hallmark of<br />an elegant tea party was cucumber<br />sandwiches, open-faced on<br />thin-sliced bread. In England the<br />sandwiches are closed and cut<br />into small squares or triangles.<br />Slice cucumbers thinly and<br />dress them with plain yogurt and a<br />little dill. Don't peel them —<br />cucumbers are mostly water<br />anyway, and most of the vitamins<br />they do contain are in the skin.<br />Instead of eating them, you can<br />make them into a refreshing<br />face cleanser — cucumbers are an<br />ingredient in many cosmetic<br />products.<br />Common name: dandelion<br />Botanical name: Taraxacum<br />officinale<br />Origin: Europe and Asia<br />Varieties<br />Thick-leaved; Improved Thick-<br />leaved.<br />Description<br />The dandelion is a hardy<br />perennial that's grown as an<br />annual for its foliage and as a<br />biennial for its roots. The jagged<br />green leaves grow in a short<br />rosette attached by a short stem to<br />a long taproot. Bright yellow<br />flowers one to two inches wide<br />grow on smooth, hollow flower<br />stalks. The dandelion is best<br />known — and feared — by<br />gardeners as a remarkably<br />persistent lawn weed, but its<br />leaves are actually high in vitamin A<br />and four times higher in vitamin<br />C than lettuce. It's also versatile:<br />Dandelion leaves are used raw<br />in salads or boiled like spinach,<br />and the roots can be roasted and<br />made into a coffeelike drink.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Dandelions grow well in any soil<br />anywhere. They prefer full sun but<br />will do fine in partial shade.<br />They're very hardy and will survive<br />both the hottest summers and<br />the coldest winters. Plant the seeds<br />in early spring, four to six weeks<br />before the average date of last<br />frost.<br />How to plant<br />Dandelions grow best in a well-<br />drained fertile soil from which<br />you've removed all the stones<br />and rubble. If you're growing<br />dandelions for their foliage<br />only, they'll tolerate soil in poorer<br />physical condition. When<br />you're preparing the soil, dig in a<br />complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10 pounds<br />per 1,000 square feet. Plant seeds<br />in the garden a quarter inch<br />deep in rows or wide rows 12 to 18<br />inches apart. Thin plants six to<br />eight inches apart after the true<br />leaves appear.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Don't bother to fertilize<br />dandelions at midseason. Detailed<br />information on fertilizing is<br />given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br /> <br />Keep the plants supplied with become pests themselves by<br />water; the dandelion's foliage may seeding all over your and your<br />become even more bitter than it neighbors' lawns.<br />is naturally if it's subjected to long<br />periods of drought. Diseases<br />Pests Dandelions have no serious<br />disease problems.<br />Pests don't bother dandelions.<br />If you let the dandelions produce When and how to harvest<br />their delicate clocklike seed<br />heads, however, they may well Harvest dandelion greens at<br />your pleasure throughout the<br />growing season. Harvest the<br />roots in the fall of the second year;<br />pull the whole root from the<br />ground — or lift the roots with a<br />fork to avoid breaking them.<br />Storing and preserving<br />You can refrigerate the greens<br />up to one week, or store the roots<br />for 10 to 12 months in a cold,<br />moist place, as you do with<br />chicory. Detailed information<br />on storing and preserving is given<br />in Parts.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Dandelion wine is a brew much<br />beloved of do-it-yourself vintners.<br />Or make dandelion tea, and<br />drink it well-chilled. Remove the<br />stalks from the dandelions and<br />toss the leaves in a vinaigrette<br />dressing. Or try a hot dressing,<br />as for a wilted spinach salad. Cook<br />the leaves quickly and serve<br />them with lemon and oregano,<br />Greek-style. To use the roots,<br />wash and dice them, then dry and<br />roast them before grinding.<br />Common names: eggplant,<br />aubergine, guinea squash<br />Botanical name: Solanum<br />melongena<br />Origin: East Indies, India<br />Varieties<br />Black Magic Hybrid (73 days);<br />Jersey King Hybrid (75 days); Black<br />Beauty (80 days). Long slender<br />fruits: Ichlban (70 days); Slim Jim<br />(75 days).<br />Description<br />Eggplant is a very tender<br />perennial plant with large grayish-<br />green hairy leaves. The star-<br />shaped flowers are lavender with<br />yellow centers, and the long,<br />slender or round, egg-shaped fruit<br />is creamy-white, yellow, brown,<br />purple, or sometimes almost<br />black. Eggplants will grow two<br />to six feet tall, depending on the<br />variety. They belong to the<br />solanaceous family, and are<br />related to tomatoes, potatoes,<br />and peppers, and were first<br />cultivated in India.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Eggplant is very sensitive to cold<br />and needs a growing season with<br />day temperatures between 80°<br />and 90°F and night temperatures<br />between 70° and 80°F. Don't<br />plant eggplant seedlings until two<br />to three weeks after your<br />average date of last frost, or when<br />daytime temperatures reach<br />70°F.<br />How to plant<br />You can grow eggplant from<br />seed, but you'll wait 150 days for a<br />harvest. It's easier to grow from<br />transplants, started inside about<br />two months before your outside<br />planting date. Don't put your<br />transplants into the garden until<br />two or three weeks after the<br />average date of last frost for your<br />area — eggplants won't be rushed,<br />and if you plant them too earlythey won't develop. Eggplants<br />must have full sun. They'll grow<br />in almost any soil, but they do<br />better in rich soil that is high in<br />organic matter, with excellent<br />drainage. When you're<br />preparing the soil, dig in a<br />complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10 pounds<br />per 1,000 square feet. Set the<br />plants 18 to 24 inches apart in<br />rows 24 to 36 inches apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Eggplants are very fussy about<br />temperature and moisture and<br />must be treated with solicitude<br />until they're well established. Try<br />to maintain even soil moisture<br />to ensure even growth; eggplants<br />are susceptible to root rot if<br />there's too much moisture in the<br />soil.<br />Special handling<br />If you live in an area where an<br />unpredictable late frost may occur,<br />provide protection at night until<br />all danger of frost is past. In hot<br />climates the soil temperature<br />may become too warm for the<br />roots; in this case, mulch the<br />plants about a month after you set<br />them outside. Plants that are<br />heavy with fruit may need to be<br />staked.<br />Pests<br />Eggplants are almost always<br />attacked by one pest or another, so<br />they're not the ideal crop for the<br />organic gardener. The pests you're<br />most likely to encounter are<br />cutworms, aphids, flea beetles,<br />Colorado potato bugs, spider<br />mites, and tomato hornworms.<br />Hand-pick hornworms off the<br />plants; control aphids and beetles<br />by hand-picking or hosing them<br />off the plants and pinching out<br />infested areas. Collars set<br />around the plants at the time you<br />transplant them will discourage<br />cutworms. Spider mites are<br />difficult to control even with the<br />proper chemicals; spray the<br />undersides of the foliage with<br />Diazinon before the populations<br />get too large. Detailed<br />information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Fungus and bacterial diseases<br />may attack eggplants. Planting<br />disease-resistant varieties when<br />possible and maintaining the<br />general cleanliness and health<br />of your garden will help lessen the<br />incidence of disease. If a plant<br />does become infected, remove it<br />before it can spread disease to<br />healthy plants. Protect the plants<br />against soilborne diseases by<br />rotating your crops and planting<br />vegetables from a different<br />plant family in the eggplants' spot<br />the following season. Detailed<br />information on disease prevention<br />is given in "Keeping Your<br />Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />100 to 150 days from seed, 70 to 85<br />days from transplants. Harvest<br />the fruit young, before the flesh<br />becomes pithy. The fruit should<br />be firm and shiny, not streaked<br />with brown. The eggplant fruit is<br />on a sturdy stem that does not<br />break easily from the plant; cut<br />it off with a sharp knife instead of<br />expecting it to fall into your<br />hand.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Whole eggplant will store up to<br />one week at 50°F; don't refrigerate<br />it. You can also freeze or dry it.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Eggplant is very versatile and<br />combines happily with all kinds of<br />other foods — cheese,<br />tomatoes, onions, and meats all<br />lend distinction to its flavor. The<br />French use it in a vegetable stew<br />called ratatouille, with<br />tomatoes, onions, peppers, garlic,<br />and herbs. Ratatouille is a good<br />hot side dish or can be served cold<br />as a salad. Eggplant is also a key<br />ingredient of the Greek moussaka,<br />layered with ground meat and<br />topped with a bechamel sauce. Or<br />coat slices in egg and<br />breadcrumbs and deep-fry them.<br />To remove excess moisture<br />from eggplant slices before you<br />cook them, salt them liberally,<br />let them stand about half an hour,<br />wash them, and pat them dry.<br />Or weight the slices with a heavy<br />plate to squeeze out the<br />moisture.<br />Common names: endive,<br />escarole<br />Botanical name: Cichorium<br />endivia<br />Origin: South Asia<br />Varieties<br />Full Heart Batavian (90 days) has<br />smooth leaves. Salad King (98days)<br />has curled leaves.<br />Description<br />Endive is a half-hardy biennial<br />grown as an annual, and it has a<br />large rosette of toothed curled<br />or wavy leaves that are used in<br />salads as a substitute for lettuce.<br />Endive is often known as escarole,<br />and they're varieties of the same<br />plant; escarole has broader leaves.<br />Endive should not be confused<br />with Belgian endive, which is the<br />young blanched sprout of the<br />chicory plant. Both endive and<br />chicory, however, belong to the<br />genus Cichorium.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Like lettuce, endive is a cool-<br />season crop, although it's more<br />tolerant of heat than lettuce.<br />Grow it from seed planted in your<br />garden four to six weeks before<br />your average date of last frost.<br />Long, hot summer days will<br />force the plants to bolt and go to<br />seed. If your area has a short,<br />hot growing season, start endive<br />from seed indoors and transplant<br />it as soon as possible so that the<br />plants will mature before the<br />weather gets really hot. Sow<br />succession crops, beginning in<br />midsummer. In a mild-winter<br />climate, you can grow spring, fall,<br />and winter crops.<br />How to plant<br />Endive needs well-worked soil<br />with good drainage and moisture<br />retention. When you're<br />preparing the soil, dig in a<br />complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10 pounds<br />per 1,000 square feet. If you're<br />using transplants, start them<br />from seed eight to 10 weeks before Water regularly to keep the<br />the average date of last frost in plants growing quickly; lack of<br />your area. If you're direct-seeding water will slow growth and<br />endive in the garden, sow seeds cause the leaves to become bitter.<br />a quarter inch deep in wide rows 18<br />to 24 inches apart, and when the Special handling<br />seedlings are large enough to<br />handle, thin them to nine to 12 Endive tastes better in salads if<br />inches apart. Thinning is important you blanch it to remove some of<br />because the plants may bolt if the bitter flavor. Blanching<br />they're crowded. Plant transplants deprives the plants of sunlight and<br />nine to 12 inches apart in rows 18<br />to 24 inches apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />discourages the production of<br />chlorophyll. Blanch two to three<br />weeks before you're ready to<br />harvest the plants. You can do this<br />in several ways: Tie string<br />around the leaves to hold them<br />together; lay a board on<br />supports over the row; or put a<br />flowerpot over each plant. If<br />you tie the endive plants, do it<br />when they're dry; the inner<br />leaves may rot if the plants are tied<br />up while the insides are wet.<br />Pests<br />Cutworms, slugs, and snails can<br />be troublesome. You may also<br />have to deal with aphids. Put a<br />collar around each plant to<br />discourage cutworms, and trap<br />slugs and snails with a saucer of<br />stale beer set flush to the soil. To<br />control aphids, pinch out infested<br />foilage, or hose the aphids off<br />the plants. You can also spray them<br />with Malathion or Diazinon,<br />taking care to spray the undersides<br />of the leaves. Detailed<br />information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Endive has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />90 to 100 days from seed. To<br />harvest, cut off the plant at soil<br />level.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Like lettuce, endive can be<br />stored for up to two weeks in the<br />refrigerator, but you can't<br />freeze, can, or dry it. Share your<br />harvest with friends. Detailed<br />information on short-term storage<br />is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Chill endive and serve it with an<br />oil-and-vinegar dressing; add<br />chunks of blue cheese or<br />croutons. Mix it with other salad<br />greens to add a distinctive<br />flavor. The French use endive in a<br />salad with heated slices of mild<br />sausage, diced bacon, and<br />croutons.<br />Common names: fennel,<br />Florence fennel, finocchio,<br />fenucchi<br />Botanical name: Foeniculum<br />vulgaredulce<br />Origin: Mediterranean<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available.<br />Crow the variety available in your<br />area.<br />Description<br />Florence fennel or finocchio is<br />the same as the common or sweet<br />fennel that is grown for use as a<br />herb. The leaves and seeds of both<br />are used the same way for<br />seasoning, but Florence fennel is<br />grown primarily for its bulbous<br />base and leaf stalks, which are<br />used as vegetables. Florence<br />fennel is a member of the parsley<br />family. It's a stocky perennial<br />grown as an annual, and looks<br />rather like celery with very<br />feathery leaves. The plant grows<br />four to five feet tall and has<br />small, golden flowers, which<br />appear in flat-topped clusters<br />from July to September. The whole<br />plant has an anise flavor.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Fennel will grow anywhere in<br />the United States. It tolerates both<br />heat and cold, but should<br />mature in cold weather. Grow it<br />from seed sown two to three<br />weeks before your average date of<br />last frost.<br />How to plant<br />Fennel needs well-drained soil<br />that's high in organic matter.<br />When you're preparing the soil<br />for planting, work in a complete,<br />well-balanced fertilizer at the<br />rate of one pound per 100 square<br />feet or 10 pounds per 1,000<br />square feet.<br />Plant the seeds a quarter of an<br />inch deep, in rows two to three<br />feet apart, in full sun. When the<br />seedlings are growing strongly,<br />thin them to stand 12 inches<br />apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Keep fennel on the dry side.<br />Special handling<br />Fennel plants grow four to five<br />feet tall; you may need to stake<br />them if they are becoming<br /> <br />unwieldy. It's not often necessary,<br />so don't bother to set stakes at<br />the time of planting.<br />Pests<br />Since fennel is a member of the<br />parsley family, the parsley<br />caterpillar may appear. Remove<br />it by hand. It has no other serious<br />pest problems, so fennel is a<br />good bet for the organic gardener.<br />Diseases<br />Fennel has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />You can start harvesting a few<br />sprigs as soon as the plant is well-<br />established and growing<br />steadily; use them for flavoring.<br />Harvest the bulbous stalk when<br />it is three inches or more in<br />diameter; cut the whole stalk<br />like celery, just below the point<br />where the individual stalks join<br />together.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Fennel leaves can be frozen or<br />dried as herbs; crumble the dried<br />leaves and store them in an<br />airtight container. You'll probably<br />want to eat the stalks fresh;<br />store them in the refrigerator up to<br />one week or in a cold, moist<br />place for two to three months. The<br />stalks can also be frozen or<br />dried; handle them like celery.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Fennel is featured in many<br />Italian dishes. The leaves add<br />flavor to soups and casseroles,<br />and fennel goes well with fish. You<br />can prepare Florence fennel in<br />many ways as you do celery. Cut<br />the fennel stalks into slices,<br />simmer them in water or stock<br />until tender, and serve buttered.<br />Bake slices of fennel with<br />cheese and butter as an<br />accompaniment to a roast, or eat<br />the stalks raw as a dipping<br />vegetable. French and Italian<br />cooks have been using fennel<br />for generations — hence the<br />variety of names by which it's<br />known. The French served grilled<br />sea bass on a bed of flaming<br />fennel stalks, and the dried stalks<br />can be used for barbecuing, too.<br />Common name: horseradish<br />Botanical name: Armoracia<br />rusticana<br />Origin: Eastern Europe<br />Varieties<br />New Bohemian.<br />Description<br />Horseradish looks like a giant,<br />two-foot radish. In fact, it's a hardy<br />perennial member of the<br />cabbage family. Ninety-eight<br />percent of all commercial<br />horseradish is grown in three<br />Illinois counties near St. Louis.<br />Horseradish has a very strong<br />flavor and — like the animal for<br />which it's named — can deliver a<br />powerful kick when you're not<br />expecting it.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Horseradish is a very cold-hardy<br />plant, which does well in the North<br />and in cool, high-altitude areas<br />in the South. Grow it from crowns<br />or roots planted four to six<br />weeks before the average date of<br />last frost for your area.<br />How to plant<br />Horseradish tolerates partial<br />shade and needs rich, well-<br />drained soil. Turn over the soil<br />to a depth of 10 to 12 inches, and<br />remove stones and lumps that<br />might cause the roots to split.<br />When you're preparing the soil,<br />dig in a complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one<br />pound per 100 square feet or 10<br />pounds per 1,000 square feet.<br />Plant the roots in a trench, and<br />place them 24 inches apart with<br />the narrow end down. Fill in the<br />trench until the thicker end is<br />just covered.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Keep the soil evenly moist so<br />that the roots will be tender and<br />full of flavor; horseradish gets<br />woody in dry soils.<br />Pests<br />Horseradish has no serious pest<br />problems.<br />Diseases<br />Horseradish has no serious<br />disease problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Plants grown from roots cannot<br />be harvested until the second year.<br />A 10-foot row should give you<br />six to eight roots. Horseradish<br />makes its best growth in late<br />summer and fall, so delay<br />harvesting until October or<br />later. Dig the roots as needed, or in<br />areas where the ground freezes<br />hard, dig them in the fall. Leave a<br />little of the root in the ground so<br />that you'll have horseradish the<br />following year, too.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Store in a glass jar in the<br />refrigerator one to two weeks. To<br />freeze, grate the roots and mix<br />with vinegar and water, as<br />specified in "How to Freeze<br />Vegetables." You can also dry<br />horseradish or store the roots in<br />a cold, moist place for 10 to 12<br />months. Detailed information<br />on storing and preserving is given<br />in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Horseradish is a classic<br />accompaniment to beef roasts and<br />steaks. Serve it solo, freshly<br />grated, to brave souls who<br />appreciate its full flavor. For the<br />less stern of stomach, calm the<br />flavor with whipped or sour<br />cream. Serve it as one of the<br />dipping sauces with a beef<br />fondue. Since the fumes are very<br />strong, grate horseradish<br />outdoors if you can. If you must do<br />it indoors, use a blender.<br />Common names: Jerusalem<br />artichoke, sunchoke<br />Botanical name; Helianthus<br />tuberosus<br />Origin: North America<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available; grow<br />the varieties available in your area.<br />You may find Jerusalem<br />artichokes growing wild by the<br />side of the road. Commercial<br />Jerusalem artichokes are<br />sometimes sold in supermarkets;<br />use these to start your own crop.<br />Description<br />Jerusalem artichokes are large,upright,<br />hardy perennials, with<br />small yellow flowers two to<br />three inches across and rough,<br />hairy leaves four to eight inches<br />long. This plant, which grows five<br />to 10 feet tall, was grown by the<br />North American Indians for its<br />tubers, which look like small<br />potatoes. The tubers are low in<br />starch and taste a bit like water<br />chestnuts.<br />The Jerusalem artichoke isn't<br />an artichoke, and it didn't come<br />from Jerusalem. It's related to<br />the sunflower, and the name is<br />probably derived from the<br />Italian name for a sunflower,<br />girasole, which means turning<br />to the sun.<br />where and when to grow<br />Jerusalem artichokes will grow<br />anywhere, and in almost any soil as<br />long as it's warm and well-<br />drained. Plant the tubers two to<br />three weeks before the average<br />date of last frost for your area.<br />How to plant<br />Give Jerusalem artichokes the<br />least productive soil in your garden<br />(provided the location is<br />sunny); they'll probably love it,<br />and they'll take over areas<br />where nothing else will grow. Plant<br />them as a screen or windbreak.<br />Be sure you know where you want<br />them before you plant,<br />however, because once Jerusalem<br />artichokes become established<br />little short of a tornado will shift<br />them. It's not necessary to<br />fertilize the soil before planting.<br />Plant the tubers two to six inches<br />deep, 12 to 18 inches apart. You<br />won't need to cultivate because<br />weeds are no competition for a<br />healthy Jerusalem artichoke.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Don't fertilize Jerusalem<br />artichokes at midseason — they'll<br />do fine on their own.<br />Water only during extremely<br />dry periods. The plants themselves<br />can survive long dry spells, but<br />the tubers will not develop without<br />a regular supply of water.<br />Pests<br />Aphids occasionally visit the<br />Jerusalem artichoke, but they<br />don't present any significant<br />problem. If they do appear, pinch<br />out infested foliage or hose the<br />aphids off the plants. Chemically<br />aphids can be controlled with<br />Malathion or Diazinon. Detailed<br />information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Tuber rot may occur if the soil is<br />not properly drained. Maintaining<br />the general health and<br />cleanliness of your garden lessens<br />the incidence of disease. If a<br />plant does become infected,<br />remove it before it can spread<br />disease to healthy plants. Detailed<br />information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />120 to 150 days, and a 10-foot row<br />should yield about 20 pounds of<br />tubers. As the plant grows, cut off<br />the flower stalks as soon as they<br />appear; this will encourage tuber<br />production. If the plant is using<br />its energy to produce seeds, it<br />won't produce tubers. (The<br />flowers, in fact, are cheerful. If<br />you're growing Jerusalem<br />artichokes for decorative as well as<br />practical purposes, you may be<br />willing to sacrifice a few tubers so<br />you can enjoy the flowers).<br />Harvest the tubers when the leaves<br />die back; dig them up with a<br />spading fork, leaving a few in the<br />ground for next year.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Store Jerusalem artichokes in<br />the refrigerator for seven to 10<br />days, or store in a cold, moist<br />place for two to five months. You<br />can also freeze Jerusalem<br />artichokes or leave them in the<br />ground as long as possible, and<br />dig them up as you need them.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />The slightly nutty flavor of the<br />Jerusalem artichoke goes well with<br />mushrooms. Serve them cooked<br />until tender then cooled and<br />sliced, in a salad with mushrooms<br />and a vinaigrette dressing. They<br />can also be used raw, peeled, and<br />thinly sliced, in a mushroom<br />salad. Cooked, you can puree<br />them, saute slices with<br />tomatoes, or simply toss them with<br />butter and seasonings as a side<br />dish with meat or poultry. They can<br />also be used as an extender in<br />meat loaf.<br />Common names: kale, borecole,<br />collards, green cabbage,<br />German greens<br />Botanical name: Brassica<br />oleracea acephala<br />Origin: horticultural hybrid<br />Varieties<br />Dwarf Blue Curled (55 days);<br />Dwarf Blue Scotch (55 days); Vate;<br />(55 days); Dwarf Green Curled<br />(60 days).<br />Description<br />Kale is a hardy biennial plant<br />grown as an annual. It's a member<br />of the cabbage family and looks<br />like cabbage with a permanent<br />wave. Scotch kale has gray-<br />green leaves that are extremely<br />crumpled and curly; Siberian or<br />blue kale usually is less curly and is<br />a bluer shade of green. There<br />are also decorative forms with<br />lavender and silver variegated<br />leaves.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Kale is a cool-weather crop that<br />grows best in the fall and will last<br />through the winter as far north<br />as Maryland and central Indiana.<br />Frost even improves the flavor,<br />and kale is better adapted for fall<br />planting throughout a wide area<br />of the United States than any other<br />vegetable. Kale doesn't tolerate<br />heat as well as the collard — which<br />it resembles in being one of the<br />oldest members of the cabbage or<br />cole family. All cole crops are<br />frost-hardy and can tolerate low<br />20°F temperatures. Kale does<br />best in a cool growing season with<br />day temperatures under 80°F.<br />Time plantings so that you can<br />harvest kale during cool<br />weather. If your area has cold<br />winters, plant for summer to<br />early fall harvest. In mild climates,<br />plant for late spring or early fall<br />harvest. In the South, plant for<br />harvest in late fall or winter.<br />Plant kale from transplants early in<br />the spring and again in the<br />midsummer if your summers<br />aren't too hot. Direct-seed in<br />the fall.<br />Flowering varieties of kale can<br />be planted in containers or as<br />accent points in a flower bed.<br />The leaves are attractive, and their<br />color is at its best in cool fall<br />weather.<br />How to plant<br />Kale likes fertile, well-drained<br />soil with pH within the 6.5 to 7.5<br />range; this discourages disease<br />and lets the plant make the most of<br />the nutrients in the soil. Kale is<br />usually grown from transplants<br />except where there is a long<br />cool period, in which case seed<br />can be sown directly in the<br />garden in fall for winter harvest.<br />When you're preparing the<br />soil for planting, work in a<br />complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10 pounds<br />per 1,000 square feet. If you have<br />sandy soil or your area is subject<br />to heavy rains, you'll probably<br />need to supplement the<br />nitrogen content of the soil. Use<br />about a pound of nitrogen<br />fertilizer for a 10-foot row.<br />Plant transplants that are four<br />to six weeks old, with four or five<br />true leaves. If the transplants are<br />leggy or have crooked stems, plant<br />them deeply (up to the first<br />leaves) so they won't grow to be<br />top-heavy. Plant the seedlings<br />eight to 12 inches apart, in rows 18<br />to 24 inches apart. If you're<br />planting seeds, set them half an<br />inch deep and space them three<br />inches apart. Thin them when<br />they're big enough to lift by the<br />true leaves, and either transplant<br />the thinned seedlings or eat<br />them right away.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Part 1.<br />Abundant soil moisture and<br />cool moist air are needed for the<br />best growth. Regular watering<br />keeps kale growing strongly and<br />prevents it from getting tough.<br />Pests<br />The cabbage family's traditional<br />enemies are cutworms and<br />caterpillars. Cutworms,<br />cabbage loopers, and imported<br />cabbage worms can all be<br />controlled by spraying with<br />bacillus thuringiensis, an<br />organic product also known as<br />Dipel or Thungicide. Kale does<br />not suffer too much from pests, so<br />it's a good choice for the organic<br />gardener. Detailed information on<br />pest control is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Kale has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />55 days from transplants, 70 to 80<br />days from seed. A 10-foot row<br />will produce about 10 plants. Leave<br />kale in the garden until needed.<br />As the plants mature, take outside<br />leaves, leaving the inner ones to<br />grow, or cut off the entire plant.<br />But harvest kale before it gets<br />old and tough.<br />Storing and preserving<br />If possible, leave kale in the<br />garden until you want to eat it. It<br />will store in the refrigerator in a<br />plastic bag for up to one week, or<br />in a cold, moist place for up to<br />three weeks. You can also freeze,<br />can, or dry it; use the recipes for<br />greens. Detailed information on<br />storing and preserving is given<br />in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Young kale makes a distinctive<br />salad green; dress it simply with oil<br />and vinegar. You can also cook it<br />in a little water and serve it with<br />butter, lemon juice, and<br />chopped bacon. Instead of<br />boiling, try preparing it like<br />spinach steamed with butter and<br />only the water that clings to the<br />leaves after washing. The Italians<br />steam kale until tender, then<br />add olive oil, a little garlic, and<br />breadcrumbs, and sprinkle it<br />with Parmesan cheese in the last<br />minute or two of cooking. You<br />can also prepare kale Chinese-<br />style, stir-fried with a few slices<br />of fresh gingerroot.<br />Common names: kohlrabi,<br />turnip-rooted cabbage, stem<br />turnip, turnip cabbage<br />Botanical name: Brassica<br />caulorapa<br />Origin: horticultural hybrid<br />Varieties<br />Early White Vienna (55 days);<br />Early Purple Vienna (60 days).<br />Description<br />Kohlrabi is a hardy biennial<br />grown as an annual and is a<br />member of the cabbage clan. It<br />has a swollen stem that makes it<br />look like a turnip growing on a<br />cabbage root. This swollen stem<br />can be white, purple, or green,<br />and is topped with a rosette of<br />blue-green leaves. In German,<br />kohl means cabbage and rabi<br />means turnip—a clue to the<br />taste and texture of kohlrabi,<br />although it is mild and sweeter<br />than either of them. Kohlrabi is a<br />fairly recent addition to the<br />vegetables grown in northern<br />Europe. In this country, nobody<br />paid it any attention until 1800,<br />Where and when to grow<br />All cole crops are hardy and can<br />tolerate low 20°F temperatures.<br />Kohlrabi tolerates heat better<br />than other members of the<br />cabbage family, but planting<br />should be timed for harvesting<br />during cool weather. Kohlrabi<br />has a shorter growing season than<br />cabbage. It grows best in cool<br />weather and produces better with<br />a 10° to 15°F difference between<br />day and night temperatures. If<br />your area has cold winters, plant<br />for summer to early fall harvest. In<br />the South, plant for harvest in<br />late fall or winter. With spring<br />plantings, start kohlrabi early so<br />that most growth will occur before<br />the weather gets too hot.<br />How to plant<br />Kohlrabi likes fertile, well-<br />drained soil with a pH within<br />the 6.5 to 7.5 range; this<br />discourages disease and lets the<br />plant make the most of the<br />nutrients in the soil. The soil<br />should be high in organic<br />matter. When you're preparing the<br />soil for planting, work in a<br />complete, well-balanced fertilizer<br />at the rate of one pound per 100<br />square feet or 10 pounds per 1,000<br />square feet. Cole crops are<br />generally grown from transplants<br />except where there's a long cool<br />period. Kohlrabi, however, can be<br />grown directly from seed in the<br />garden. Sow seeds in rows 18 to 24<br />inches apart and cover them<br />with a quarter to a half inch of soil.<br />When the seedlings are growing<br />well, thin them to five or six inches<br />apart—you can transplant the<br />thinnings. Cultivate carefully to<br />avoid harming the shallow roots.<br /> <br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Part 1. Kohlrabi<br />should have even moisture or it<br />will become woody.<br />Pests<br />The cabbage family's traditional<br />enemies are cutworms and<br />caterpillars. Cutworms,<br />cabbage loopers, and imported<br />cabbage worms can all be<br />controlled by spraying with<br />bacillus thuringiensis, an<br />organic product also known as<br />Dipel or Thungicide. Detailed<br />information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Cabbage family crops are<br />susceptible to yellows, clubroot,<br />and downy mildew. Lessen the<br />incidence of disease by planting<br />disease-resistant varieties when<br />they're available; maintaining the<br />general health of your garden;<br />and avoiding handling the plants<br />when they're wet. If a plant does<br />become infected, remove and<br />destroy it so it cannot spread<br />disease to healthy plants. Detailed<br />information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Kohlrabi will store for one week<br />in a refrigerator or for one to two<br />months in a cold, moist place.<br />Kohlrabi can also be frozen.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Small, tender kohlrabi are<br />delicious steamed, without<br />peeling. As they mature you can<br />peel off the outer skin, dice them,<br />and boil them in a little water.<br />Kohlrabi can also be stuffed, like<br />squash-<br />Try young kohlrabi raw,<br />chilled, and sliced; the flavor is<br />mild and sweet, and the<br />vegetable has a nice, crisp texture.<br />You can also cook kohlrabi,<br />then cut it into strips and marinate<br />the strips in an oil and vinegar<br />dressing; chill this salad to serve<br />with cold cuts. Cooked kohlrabi<br />can be served just with seasoning<br />and a little melted butter or<br />mashed with butter and cream. For<br />a slightly different flavor, cook it<br />in bouillon instead of water.<br />Common name: leek<br />Botanical name: Allium porrum<br />Origin: Mediterranean, Egypt<br />Varieties<br />Titan (120 days); American Flag (120<br />days); Broad London (130 days); Tivi<br />(115 days).<br />Description<br />The leek is a hardy biennial<br />grown as an annual. It's a member<br />of the onion family, but has a<br />stalk rather than a bulb and leaves<br />that are flat and straplike<br />instead of hollow. The Welsh<br />traditionally wear a leek on St.<br />David's day (March 1) to<br />commemorate King<br />Cadwallader's victory over the<br />Saxons in A.D. 640, when the<br />Welsh pulled up leeks and wore<br />them as ID's. The more<br />decorous now wear a daffodil<br />instead.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Leeks are a cool-weather crop.<br />They'll tolerate warm<br />temperatures, but you'll get<br />better results if the days are cool;<br />temperatures under 75°F<br />produce the best yields. Plant<br />leeks from seed in the spring<br />four to six weeks before the<br />average date of last frost and<br />from transplants in fall for a late<br />harvest. Plant transplants in<br />spring if you want to speed<br />up the crop to avoid a hot<br />summer.<br />How to plant<br />Leeks like a place in full sun<br />and thrive in rich, well-worked<br />soil with good drainage. When<br />you're preparing the soil, dig in a<br />complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10 pounds<br />per 1,000 square feet. Plant the<br />seeds an eighth inch deep in<br />rows 12 to 18 inches apart, and thin<br />them six to nine inches apart. To<br />plant transplants, make holes six<br />inches deep, about six to nine<br />inches apart, in well-worked soil.<br />Double rows save space; to<br />make them, stagger the plants with<br />their leaves growing parallel to<br />the rows so they will not grow into<br />the pathway. Drop the leeks in<br />the holes, but do not fill in with<br />soil. Over a period of time,<br />watering will slowly collapse the<br />soil around the leeks and settle<br />them in.<br />Special handling<br />In order to grow a large, white,<br />succulent leek, blanch the lower<br />part of the stem by hilling the<br />soil up around the stalk as It<br />develops.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Give leeks plenty of water to<br />keep them growing strongly.<br />Pests<br />Onion thrips may show up on<br />leeks in dry weather. Discourage<br />them by hosing them off the<br />plants, or spray them with<br />Malathion or Diazinon, Leeks<br />will do well in the organic garden<br />despite the thrips. More<br />detailed information on pest<br />control is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />Diseases<br />Leeks have no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />about 80 days from transplants and<br />120 days or more from seed. A<br />10-foot double row should give<br />you about 20 leeks. Around<br />midsummer, start removing the<br />top half of the leaves. This will<br />encourage greater growth of the<br />leek stalk. Pull the leeks as you<br />need them, but harvest them all<br />before frost.<br />with small, yellowish flowers on<br />the stalk. The lettuce most<br />commonly found in supermarkets<br />(iceberg or head lettuce) is the<br />most difficult to grow in the home<br />vegetable garden. Butterhead<br />and bibb lettuces, which are often<br />so extravagantly expensive in<br />the store, are easier to grow.<br />Butterhead lettuces have loose<br />heads and delicate crunchy leaves.<br />Stem lettuce (celtuce) might<br />fool you into thinking you're<br />eating hearts of palm and makes<br />a crunchy addition to a salad.<br />Celtuce is grown in the same<br />way as lettuce, except that you<br />want celtuce to bolt or go to<br />seed, because you're going to<br />harvest the thickened stem. You<br />use the leaves of celtuce as you<br />would regular lettuce; the heart<br />of the stem is used like celery. Cos<br />or romaine lettuce forms a<br />loose, long head and is part way<br />between a butterhead and leaf<br />lettuce in flavor. Leaf lettuce is<br />delightfully easy to grow, grows<br />fast, and provides bulk and color to<br />salads.<br />Leaf lettuce and butterhead<br />lettuce make attractive borders or<br />accents in a flower garden, and<br />either kind can be grown singly in a<br />four-inch pot or in a window<br />box. With a little planning you can<br />grow an entire salad garden in<br />containers on a balcony or terrace.<br />Historically, King Nebuchadnezzar<br />grew lettuce in his<br />gardens in ancient Babylon. The<br />Romans used lettuce as a<br />sedative.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Lettuce is a cool-season crop,<br />usually grown from seed planted in<br />the garden four to six weeks<br />before your average date of last<br />frost. Long, hot summer days<br />will make the plants bolt, or go to<br />seed; when this happens the<br />plant sends up a flower stalk and<br />becomes useless as a vegetable.<br />If your area has a short, hot<br />growing season, start head<br />lettuce from seed indoors eight to<br />10 weeks before your average<br />date of last frost and transplant it as<br />soon as possible so that the<br />plants will mature before the<br />weather gets really hot. Sow<br />succession crops, beginning in<br />midsummer. In a mild-winter<br />climate, grow spring, fall, and<br />winter crops.<br />How to plant<br />Lettuce needs well-worked soil<br />with good drainage and moisture<br />retention. When you're<br />preparing the soil, dig in a<br />complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10 pounds<br />per 1,000 square feet. Start<br />transplants from seed eight to 10<br />weeks before your average date of<br />last frost. If you are direct<br />seeding lettuce in the garden, sow<br />seeds a quarter inch deep in<br />wide rows, and when the seedlings<br />are large enough to handle, thin<br />leaf lettuce to stand six to eight<br />inches apart and head lettuce 12<br />inches apart. Thinning is<br />important; heading lettuce<br />won't head, and all lettuce may<br />bolt if the plants are crowded.<br />Transplant the thinnings.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Give the entire garden a<br />midseason application of fertilizer.<br />Your successive crops of lettuce<br />will benefit from it, even though<br />you will already have harvested<br />an early crop. Detailed<br />information on fertilizing is<br />given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Always keep the soil evenly<br />moist but not soggy, and don't let<br />the shallow-rooted lettuce<br />plants dry out. Heading lettuce<br />needs careful watering when<br />the head is forming. Try not to<br />splash muddy water on the<br />lettuce plants — the cleaner they<br />are, the easier they are to<br />prepare for eating. Use a light<br />mulch of straw or hay to keep<br />soil off the leaves.<br />Pests<br />Cutworms, slugs, and snails can<br />be troublesome. You may also<br />have to deal with aphids. Put a<br />collar around each plant to<br />discourage cutworms, and trap<br />slugs and snails with a saucer of<br />stale beer set flush to the soil. To<br />control aphids, pinch out infested<br />foliage, or hose the aphids off<br />the plants. Control aphids<br />chemically with Malathion or<br />Diazinon, taking care to spray the<br />undersides of the leaves.<br />Detailed information on pest<br />control is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />Diseases<br />Lettuce has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />As the lettuce grows, either pick<br />the outer leaves and let the inner<br />leaves develop, or harvest the<br />whole plant at once by cutting it off<br />at ground level. Try to harvest<br />when the weather is cool; in the<br />heat of the day the leaves may be<br />limp. Chilling will crisp up the<br />leaves again.<br />storing and preserving<br />Don't harvest lettuce until<br />you're ready to use it. It can be<br />stored for up to two weeks in the<br />refrigerator, and everyone has a<br />favorite way of keeping it crisp.<br />Some suggest washing the lettuce<br />first, then wrapping it in a cotton<br />or linen towel and keeping it in the<br />refrigerator. Others suggest<br />storing the whole lettuce in a<br />plastic bag. You can't freeze,<br />dry, or can lettuce, but you can<br />sprout lettuce seeds. If you've<br />got lots, share your bounty with<br />friends. Detailed information<br />on short-term storage is given in<br />Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Yes, salads, of course — but<br />there are other ways to serve<br />lettuce. Braise it in butter with<br />seasoning to taste — the French<br />use nutmeg. Make a wilted salad<br />or cream of lettuce soup, or stir-fry<br />it with mushrooms and onions.<br />Cook peas and shredded lettuce<br />together in a little butter —<br />throw in the lettuce just before<br />you take the peas off the heat. Use<br />several varieties of lettuce<br />together for an interesting<br />combination of shades and<br />textures. Serve a very plain<br />salad — a few leaves of lettuce<br />dressed with oil and a good wine<br />vinegar — to cleanse the palate<br />between courses of a fancy dinner.<br />Common name: mushroom<br />Botanical name: Agaricus<br />species<br />Origin: Mushrooms are found<br />all over the world.<br />Varieties<br />Although there are many<br />varieties of edible mushrooms,<br />only a few are available for<br />home production; grow the<br />varieties that are available<br />commercially.<br />Description<br />Mushrooms are the fruiting<br />bodies of a fungus organism, and<br />there are between 60,000 and<br />100,000 species of fungus that<br />produce mushrooms. Because<br />many mushrooms are poisonous,<br />and it's extremely difficult to<br />tell the edible variety from the<br />poisonous kind, gathering wild<br />mushrooms to eat is a very risky<br />pastime. There are, however,<br />many good books on the market<br />that will help you recognize<br />some of the 50 or more edible<br />varieties that grow wild in the<br />United States; so if you do want<br />to go mushroom-hunting, do a<br />little homework first. You can also<br />grow mushrooms at home<br />from prepared trays, kits, and<br />spawn that are available<br />commercially through seed<br />catalog companies and garden<br />suppliers. It's not too difficult,<br />and it can be both productive<br />and fun.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Because you're growing them<br />indoors, the type of climate you<br />live in is a matter of indifference<br />to your mushrooms. You can<br />also grow them at any time of the<br />year, but the trays or kits are<br />usually available commercially<br />only from October through<br />April.<br />How to plant<br />Mushrooms grow best in a<br />dark, humid, cool area. In most<br />homes the best places are the<br />basement and the cabinet under<br />the kitchen sink. A little light<br />won't hurt the mushrooms, but<br />they do need high humidity —<br />80 to 85 percent — and a cool<br />temperature —55° to 60°F.<br /> <br />Mushrooms for growing at<br />home are available in two<br />different forms — in kits or as<br />spawn. You can buy prepared<br />trays and kits already filled with<br />the growing medium and the<br />mushroom spores. All you<br />have to do is remove the tray from<br />the package, add an inch of<br />topsoil, and water. Keep them in a<br />dark, humid, cool place, and<br />you should be harvesting<br />mushrooms within about four<br />weeks.<br />Many seed companies also<br />sell mushroom spawn; growing<br />from spawn is less expensive,<br />but it does require a little more<br />care. Plant half-inch pieces of<br />the spawn about two inches deep<br />and eight to 10 inches apart in a<br />well-rotted strawy horse or cow<br />manure. Keep the planted<br />spawn in a dark, humid room with<br />the temperature at about 70°F<br />for the first 21 days; then lower<br />the temperature to about 60°F<br />and cover the bed with a one-inch<br />layer of good, sterilized<br />topsoil. If the conditions are<br />right, you should be able to<br />start harvesting in about four<br />weeks.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />You don't need to fertilize<br />mushrooms.<br />Keep them moist; don't let<br />the mushrooms dry out, but don't<br />allow water to stand on the soil.<br />Pests<br />Pests present no serious<br />problems when you're growing<br />mushrooms at home.<br />Diseases<br />Mushrooms grown at home<br />have no serious disease problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Whether you're growing<br />mushrooms from a kit or from<br />spawn, you'll wait about four<br />weeks for results. You can harvest<br />the mushrooms as immature<br />buttons, before the caps open, or<br />when the cap is fully open and<br />the gills exposed — at this stage<br />the mushrooms are ripe and<br />their flavor is at its highest level.<br />Never pull the mushrooms out<br />of the soil; cut them off at soil level<br />with a sharp knife. Check and<br />harvest your mushrooms every<br />day; if you leave mature<br />mushrooms in the planting bed<br />your yield will be lower, but if<br />you pick them regularly the bed<br />will produce continuously for as<br />long as six months.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Mushrooms can be stored in the<br />refrigerator up to one week. You<br />can also freeze, can, or dry<br />them. Detailed information on<br />storing and preserving is given<br />in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Fresh mushrooms are<br />wonderful raw, sliced thinly and<br />eaten alone or tossed in a green<br />salad. Simmer them in red wine<br />and tomatoes with parsley and<br />herbs for a delicious vegetarian<br />supper dish. Stuff them with<br />herbed breadcrumbs and broil<br />them, or saute them lightly and<br />toss them in with a dish of plain<br />vegetables — try them with<br />zucchini. Use mushrooms in your<br />stir-fry Oriental dishes; the<br />quick cooking preserves their<br />flavor and texture. You can also<br />fold them into an omelette topped<br />with sherry sauce for an elegant<br />lunch dish.<br />Common names: muskmelon,<br />cantaloupe, cantaloup<br />Botanical name: Cucumis melo<br />Origin: South Asia, tropical<br />Africa<br />Varieties<br />Muskmelons are very<br />dependent on climate and<br />growing conditions. Check with<br />your garden center or local<br />extension office for the varieties<br />that grow best in your area.<br />Description<br />The muskmelon is a long,<br />trailing annual that belongs to the<br />cucumber and watermelon<br />muskmelon is usually called a<br />cantaloupe, but it should not be<br />confused with the real<br />cantaloupe, which is a warty or<br />rock melon. The word<br />cantaloupe means "song of the<br />wolf" and was the name of an<br />Italian castle. In 1885, when<br />William S. Ross brought two<br />barrels of muskmelons into the<br />South Water Market in Chicago,<br />everyone laughed at the little<br />melons. Ross, however,<br />laughed all the way to the bank.<br />The U.S. Department of<br />Agriculture spells it cantaloup,<br />without the final "e."<br />Another type of melon you<br />may like to try in your garden is the<br />honeydew. It's sometimes<br />referred to as a winter melon, but<br />again the name is inaccurate —<br />the true winter melon is a<br />Chinese vegetable. Honeydews<br />family. The netted melon or<br />have a smoother surface than<br />muskmelons, and lack their<br />distinctive odor. They also ripen<br />later and require a longer growing<br />season, which means that they<br />will not ripen fully in short-season<br />areas. Your Cooperative<br />Extension Service will advise you<br />on growing honeydews in your<br />area. The following growing<br />information for muskmelons<br />applies also to honeydews.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Muskmelon is a tender, warm-<br />weather plant that will not tolerate<br />even the slightest frost. It also<br />has a long growing season, which<br />means that you must be careful<br />to select a variety suited to your<br />area's climate. In cool areas<br />you'll do better with small-fruited<br />varieties; in warmer areas,<br />where you can accommodate their<br />need for a longer season, you<br />can grow the large varieties. In<br />cool areas grow muskmelons<br />from transplants, using individual,<br />plantable containers at least<br />four inches in diameter so that the<br />root systems are not disturbed<br />when you plant them. Set the<br />plants in the garden when the<br />ground is thoroughly warm, two to<br />three weeks after your average<br />date of last frost.<br />How to plant<br />Muskmelons must have full sun<br />and thrive in well-drained soil that<br />is high in organic matter. When<br />you're preparing the soil, dig in a<br />complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10 pounds<br />per 1,000 square feet. Grow<br />muskmelons in inverted hills<br />spaced four to six feet apart. If<br />you're planting from seed, plant<br />six to eight seeds in each hill; when<br />the seedlings have developed<br />three or four true leaves, thin them<br />to leave the strongest two or<br />three seedlings In each hill. Cut the<br />thinned seedlings with scissors<br />at soil level to avoid damaging the<br />survivors' root systems. Where<br />cucumber beetles, other insects,<br />or weather are a problem, wait a<br />bit before making the final<br />selection. If you're using<br />transplants, put two or three in<br />each hill.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Muskmelons need a lot of<br />water while the vines are growing.<br />Be generous with water until the<br />melons are mature, then stop<br />watering while the fruit ripens.<br />Special handling<br />To keep competitive plants<br />weeded out, cultivate carefully<br />until the vines cover the<br />ground. The roots are very shallow<br />and extend quite a distance, so<br />proceed with caution. You can<br />grow muskmelons three feet<br />apart on fences instead of in<br />Inverted hills. As the fruits<br />develop, they may need support if<br />you're growing them on a fence.<br />A net or bag will do the job — try<br />using old pantyhose. If the<br />muskmelons are growing in a hill,<br />put a board under each melon to<br />keep it off the ground.<br />Pests<br />Aphids and cucumber beetles<br />are the pests you're most likely to<br />encounter. To control aphids.<br />pinch out infested vegetation,<br />hose them off the vines, or spray<br />the aphids with Malathion or<br />Diazinon. Cucumber beetles<br />may not do much feeding damage,<br />but they carry cucumber<br />bacterial wilt. Hand-pick them off<br />the vines promptly, or spray<br />them with carbaryl. Detailed<br />information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Muskmelon vines are<br />susceptible to wilt, blight, mildew,<br />and root rot. Planting disease-<br />resistant varieties when possible<br />and maintaining the general<br />cleanliness and health of your<br />garden will help cut down the<br />incidence of disease. If a plant<br />does become infected, remove<br />and destroy it before it can spread<br />disease to healthy plants.<br />Detailed information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Parti.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />60 to 110 days, depending on type,<br />and in a good season you might<br />get 10 melons from a 10-foot row.<br />Leave melons on the vine until<br />they're ripe; there is no increase in<br />sugar after harvesting. Mature<br />melons slip easily off the stem; a<br />half-ripe melon needs more<br />pressure to remove than a ripe<br />melon, and often comes off with<br />half the stem attached.<br />Storing and preserving<br />You can store muskmelons up<br />to one week in the refrigerator or,<br />if you have a lot, for two to<br />three weeks in a cool, moist place.<br />You can also freeze your extras<br />or make pickles with them.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Muskmelon or honeydew is<br />delicious by itself. A squeeze of<br />lemon or lime juice brings out<br />the flavor nicely. Or fill the halves<br />with fruit salad, yogurt, or ice<br />cream. You can also scoop out the<br />flesh with a melon-baller, and<br />freeze the balls for future use. Mix<br />balls or chunks of different<br />types of melon for a cool dessert.<br />Serve wedges of honeydew with<br />thinly sliced prosciutto as an<br />appetizer.<br />Common names: mustard,<br />Chinese mustard, leaf mustard,<br />spinach greens<br />Botanical name: Brassica juncea<br />Origin: Asia<br />Varieties<br />Tendergreen (spinach mustard,<br />30 days); Green Wave (45 days);<br />Southern Giant Curled (40<br />days).<br />Description<br />Mustard is a hardy annual with a<br />rosette of large light or dark green<br />crinkled leaves that grow up to<br />three feet in length. The leaves and<br />leaf stalks are eaten. The seeds<br />can be ground and used as a<br />condiment. If you had lived in<br />ancient Rome, you would have<br />eaten mustard to cure your<br />lethargy and any pains you<br />suffered.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Mustard is a cool-season crop;<br />it's hardy, but the seeds will not<br />germinate well if you sow them<br />too early, so plant seeds in the<br />garden on your average date of<br />last frost. Mustard is grown like<br />lettuce; it is more heat-tolerant<br />than lettuce, but long hot summer<br />days will force the plants to bolt<br />and go to seed. As mustard has a<br />very short growing season, most<br />areas of the United States can<br />accommodate it without any<br />problems.<br />How to plant<br />Mustard tolerates partial shade<br />and needs well-worked soil, high<br />in organic matter, with good<br />drainage and moisture retention.<br />When you're preparing the soil,<br />dig in a complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one<br />pound per 100 square feet or 10<br />pounds per 1,000 square feet.<br />Plant the seeds half an inch deep in<br />rows 12 to 24 inches apart, and<br />when the seedlings are large<br />enough to handle, thin them to<br />stand six to 12 inches apart.<br />Transplant the thinned seedlings,<br />or eat them in soups or as greens.<br />For a continuous harvest,<br />plant a few seeds at intervals,<br />rather than an entire row at one<br />time. As soon as the plants start<br />to go to seed, pull them up or<br />they will produce a great number<br />of seeds and sow themselves all<br />over the garden. Plant mustard<br />again when the weather begins<br />to cool off.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Part 1.<br />Water mustard before the soil<br />dries out to keep the leaves<br />growing quickly.<br />Pests<br />Mustard is almost always<br />attacked by some pest or other and<br />is more susceptible than other<br />crops to attack by flea beetles and<br />aphids. Hand-pick or hose these<br />pests off the plant, or pinch out<br />aphid-infested foliage. Or use a<br />chemical spray of Malathion or<br />Diazinon. Because of its pest<br />problems, mustard is not the ideal<br />crop for the organic gardener.<br />Detailed information on pest<br />control is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />Diseases<br />Mustard has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Pick off individual leaves as they<br />grow, or cut the entire plant.<br />Harvest when the leaves are<br />young and tender; in summer the<br />leaf texture may become tough<br />and the flavor strong. Harvest the<br />whole crop when some of the<br />plants start to go to seed.<br />storing and preserving<br />You can store mustard in the<br />refrigerator for up to one week, or<br />you can freeze, can, or dry your<br />excess crop; use the recipes for<br />greens. You can also sprout<br />mustard seeds. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Use young, tender leaves of<br />mustard in a salad, alone or mixed<br />with other greens. Boil the older<br />leaves quickly in just the water that<br />clings to them after washing;<br />dress them with a little olive oil and<br />vinegar, or add some crumbled<br />bacon. Substitute mustard greens<br />for spinach in an omelette or<br />frittata.<br />Common names: okra, lady's<br />fingers, gumbo<br />Botanical names: Hibiscus<br />esculentus<br />Origin: Africa<br />Varieties<br />Emerald (56 days); Clemson<br />Spineless (58 days); Dwarf Green<br />Long Pod (52 days).<br />Description<br />Okra, a member of the cotton<br />and hibiscus family, is an erect,<br />tender annual With hairy stems<br />and large maplelike leaves. It<br />grows from three to six feet tall,<br />and has large flowers that look like<br />yellow hibiscus blossoms with<br />red or purplish centers. When<br />mature, the pods are six to 10<br />inches long and filled with<br />buckshotlike seeds. Okra is<br />used in Southern cooking, in<br />gumbo or mixed with tomatoes.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Okra is very sensitive to cold;<br />the yield decreases with<br />temperatures under 70°f, but it<br />has a short season, which permits<br />it to be grown almost anywhere<br />in the United States. Plant okra<br />from seed in the vegetable<br />garden about four weeks after your<br />average date of last frost. Okra<br />does not grow well in containers.<br />How to plant<br />Okra will grow in almost any<br />warm, well-drained soil and needs<br />a place in full sun. When you're<br />preparing the soil, dig in a<br />complete well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10 pounds<br />per 1,000 square feet. Plant the<br />seeds a half inch to an inch deep<br />in rows 24 to 36 inches apart, and<br />when the seedlings are growing<br />strongly, thin them to stand 12 to<br />18 inches apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Keep the plants on the dry<br />side. The stems rot easily in wet or<br />cold conditions.<br />Special handling<br />Don't work with okra plants<br />when they're wet. You may get an<br />allergic reaction.<br />Pests<br />Flea beetles and aphids may visit<br />okra. Spray flea beetles with<br />carbaryl. Pinch out aphid-<br />infested vegetation, control the<br />aphids chemically with<br />Malathion or Diazinon. Detailed<br />Information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Okra may be attacked by<br />verticillium or fusarium wilt. Okra<br />varieties are not resistant to<br />these diseases, but maintaining<br />the general cleanliness and<br />health of your garden will help cut<br />down the incidence of disease.<br />If a plant does become infected,<br />remove it before it can spread<br />disease to healthy plants. Rotate<br />crops to prevent the buildup of<br />diseases in the soil. Detailed<br />information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />50 to 65 days, and a 10-foot row will<br />yield about six pounds of pods.<br />When the plants begin to set their<br />pods, harvest them at least<br />every other day. Pods grow<br />quickly, and unless the older<br />ones are cut off the plant will stop<br />producing new ones. Okra will<br />grow for a year if not killed by frost<br />and if old pods are not left on<br />the plant. Keep picking the pods<br />while they are quite small; when<br />they're only about two inches long<br />they are less gluey. If you let the<br />pods mature you can use them in<br />winter flower arrangements;<br />the pods and the stalks are quite<br />dramatic.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Pods will store in the<br />refrigerator for seven to 10 days.<br />You can also freeze, can, or dry<br />them. Detailed information on<br />storing and preserving is given<br />in Part 3,<br />Serving suggestions<br />Many people are disappointed<br />because their first mouthful often<br />tastes like buckshot in<br />mucilage. A taste for okra is<br />perhaps an acquired one. Try it<br />in gumbo, mixed with<br />tomatoes, or sauteed.<br />Common name: onion<br />Botanical name: Allium cepa<br />Origin: Southwest Asia<br />Varieties<br />Soil and growing conditions<br />affect the flavor of an onion as<br />much as the variety, so check<br />with a garden center or with your<br />Cooperative Extension Service<br />for specific varieties that will do<br />well in your area.<br />Description<br />Onions are hardy biennial<br />vegetables usually grown as<br />annuals. They have hollow<br />leaves, the bases of which enlarge<br />to form a bulb. The flower stalk<br />is also hollow, taller than the<br />leaves, and topped with a<br />cluster of white or lavender<br />flowers. The bulbs vary in color<br />from white through yellow to red.<br />All varieties can be eaten as<br />green onions, though spring<br />onions, bunching onions,<br />scallions, and green onions are<br />grown especially for their tops.<br />Green onions take the least time to<br />grow. Bermuda and Spanish<br />onions are milder than American<br />onions. American and Spanish<br />onions generally take longer to<br />mature than Bermuda onions.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Most onions are sensitive to day<br />length. The American and Spanish<br />onions need long days to<br />produce their bulbs, and the<br />Bermuda onion prefers short<br />days. Onions are also sensitive to<br />temperature, generally<br />requiring cool weather to produce<br />their tops and warm weather to<br />produce their bulbs. They're frost-<br />hardy, and you can plant<br />whichever variety you're using<br />four weeks before your average<br />date of last frost. In the South,<br />onions can be planted in the fall<br />or winter, depending on the<br />variety.<br />How to plant<br />Onions are available in three<br />forms — seeds, transplants, and<br />sets. Sets are onions with a case<br />of arrested development — their<br />growth was stopped when they<br />were quite small. The smaller the<br />sets are, the better; any sets<br />larger than the nail of your little<br />finger are unlikely to produce<br />good bulbs. Sets are the easiest to<br />plant and the quickest to<br />produce a green onion, but they<br />are available in the least number<br />of varieties, and are not the most<br />reliable for bulb production —<br />sometimes they'll shoot right on<br />to the flowering stage without<br />producing a bulb. Transplants<br />are available in more varieties than<br />sets and are usually more<br />reliable about producing bulbs.<br />Seeds are the least expensive<br />and are available in the greatest<br />variety, but they have disease<br />problems that sets don't have and<br />take such a long time to grow<br />that the forces of nature often kill<br />them before they produce<br />anything.<br />In limited space you can grow<br />onions between other vegetables,<br />such as tomatoes or cabbages,<br />or tuck them in among<br />flowers — they don't take much<br />room. They can also be grown in<br />containers. An eight-inch<br />flowerpot can hold eight to 10<br />green onions.<br />Onions appreciate a well-<br />made, well-worked bed with all the<br />lumps removed to a depth of at<br />least six inches. The soil should be<br />fertile and rich in organic matter.<br />Locate most bulbs in full<br />sun — green onions can be placed<br />in a partially shady spot. When<br />you're preparing the soil, dig in a<br />complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10 pounds<br />per 1,000 square feet.<br />When you plant transplants<br />and sets, remember that large<br />transplants and large sets (over<br />three quarters inch in diameter)<br />will often go directly to seed<br />and should be grown only for<br />green or pulling onions. Grow<br />smaller transplants or sets for<br />bulbs. Plant transplants or sets<br />an inch to two inches deep, and<br />two to three inches apart, in<br />rows 12 to 18 inches apart. The final<br />size of the onion will depend on<br />how much growing space it has.<br />The accompanying illustration<br />shows how to plant onion<br />transplants or sets. If you're<br />planting onions from seed, plant<br />the seeds a quarter inch deep in<br />rows 12 to 18 inches apart, and thin<br />to one to two inches apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />The soil should not be allowed<br />to dry out until the plants<br />have started to mature — at this<br />stage the leaves start to get yellow<br />and brown and to droop over.<br />Then let the soil get as dry as<br />possible.<br />Special handling<br />Onions are not good fighters;<br />keep the weeds from crowding in<br />and taking all their food and<br />water. Keep the weeds cut off from<br />the very beginning since they<br />are hard to remove when they<br />snuggle up to the onion. Thin<br />conscientiously; in a crowded bed<br />onions will mature when very<br />small without growing a bulb.<br />Pests<br />Onion thrips and maggots are<br />the pests to watch for. Discourage<br />thrips by hosing them off the<br />plants, or control them chemically<br />with Malathion or Diazinon.<br />Prevention is the best<br />nonchemical control for<br />maggots — put a three- or four<br />inch square of plastic around<br />the plants to discourage flies from<br />laying their eggs near the plants.<br />To control maggots chemically,<br />drench the soil around the<br />plants with Diazinon at the first<br />sign of damage. Detailed<br />information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />In areas that produce onions<br />commercially, onions are<br />susceptible to bulb and root<br />rots, smut, and downy mildew.<br />Planting disease-resistant<br />varieties when possible and<br />maintaining the general<br />cleanliness and health of your<br />garden will help cut down the<br />incidence of disease. If a plant<br />does become infected, remove<br />it before it can spread disease to<br />healthy plants. Detailed<br />information on disease prevention<br />is given in "Keeping Your<br />Garden Healthy" in Parti.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Harvest some leaves for<br />flavoring throughout the season,<br />and harvest the green onions<br />when the bulb is full but not much<br />larger in diameter than the<br />leaves. Harvest dry onion bulbs<br />after the leaves have dried. Lift<br />them completely out of the soil; if<br />the roots touch the soil they may<br />start growing again and get soft<br />and watery.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Store green onions in the<br />refrigerator for up to one week. Let<br />mature bulbs air-dry for about a<br />week outside; then store them in a<br />cold, dry place for up to six or<br />seven months. Do not refrigerate<br />mature onions. You can also<br />freeze, dry, or pickle onions.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Onions are probably the cook's<br />most indispensable vegetable.<br />They add flavor to a huge variety<br />of cooked dishes, and a meat stew<br />or casserole without onions<br />would be a sad thing indeed. Serve<br />small onions parboiled with a<br />cream sauce, or stuff large ones for<br />baking. Serve onion slices<br />baked like scalloped potatoes.<br />Perk up a salad with thin onion<br />rings, or dip thick rings in batter<br />and deep-fry them. Serve<br />onions as one of the vegetables for<br />a tempura. Add chopped,<br />sauteed onion to a cream sauce for<br />vegetables, or fry a big panful of<br />slices to top liver or hamburgers.<br />Serve pickled onions with<br />cheese and crusty bread for a<br />"farmer's lunch." It's virtually<br />impossible to run out of culinary<br />uses for your onion crop.<br />Common name: parsnip<br />Botanical name: Pastinaca sativa<br />Origin: Europe<br />Varieties<br />Hollow Crown improved (95<br />days). All American (105 days),<br />Harris Model (120 days).<br />Description<br />Parsnips are biennals grown as<br />annuals and belong to the same<br />family as celery, carrots, and<br />parsley. A rosette of celerylike<br />leaves grows from the top of the<br />whitish, fleshy root. Parsnips taste<br />like sweet celery hearts. Roman<br />Emperor Tiberius demanded<br />annual supplies of parsnips<br />from Germany. Parsnips were the<br />potato of medieval and<br />Renaissance Europe.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Parsnips need a long, cool<br />growing season. They will tolerate<br />cold at both the start and the<br />end of their growing season, and<br />they can withstand freezing<br />temperatures. Plant them from<br />seed two to three weeks before<br />the average date of last frost.<br />How to plant<br />Parsnips prefer full sun but will<br />tolerate partial shade. Before<br />planting, work a 5-10-10<br />fertilizer into the soil at the rate of<br />half a cup to 100 square feet.<br />Turn the soil thoroughly to a depth<br />of 10 to 12 inches, and remove<br />all lumps and rocks. This initial-soil<br />preparation is essential for a<br />healthy crop; soil lumps, rocks, or<br />other obstructions in the soil<br />will cause the roots to split, fork, or<br />become deformed. Don't use<br />manure in the soil bed for root<br />crops unless it is very well-<br />rotted; it may also cause forking.<br />Plant seeds a half inch deep in<br />wide rows 18 to 24 inches apart.<br />When the seedlings develop<br />two true leaves, thin them to two to<br />four inches apart. Thinning is<br />very important; parsnips must<br />have adequate space for root<br />development. Do not pull out the<br />thinned seedlings; cut them off<br />at ground level to avoid disturbing<br />the remaining seedlings.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential.Soil" in Parti.<br />To keep parsnips growing<br />quickly, give them plenty of water.<br />As they approach maturity,<br />water less; too much moisture at<br />this stage may cause the roots to<br />crack.<br />Special handling<br />In areas with high soil<br />temperature, roots will grow short<br />unless you mulch to regulate<br />the soil temperature. Control<br />weeds, especially during the<br />first few weeks, but cultivate<br />shallowly to avoid damaging the<br />young roots.<br />Pests<br />Parsnips have few enemies, but<br />root maggots may be<br />troublesome. Discourage flies<br />from laying eggs near the plants by<br />putting a three-or four-inch<br />square of plastic around each<br />plant. Control maggots<br />chemically by drenching the soil<br />around the plants with<br />Diazinon. Detailed information on<br />pest control is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />Diseases<br />Parsnips have no serious<br />disease problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Leave the parsnips in the soil as<br />long as possible or until you need<br />them. The roots are not harmed<br />by the ground's freezing. In fact.<br />some people think this makes<br />them taste better. The low<br />temperatures convert the roots'<br />starch to sugar. Dig them up<br />before the ground becomes<br />unworkable.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Store parsnips in the i<br />refrigerator for one to three<br />weeks, or in a cold, moist place<br />for two to six months. You can also<br />freeze them. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Parsnips can be cooked like<br />carrots. If the roots are very large,<br />remove the tough core after<br />cooking. Put parsnips around a<br />beef roast so that they cook in<br />the meat juices, or puree them and<br />add butter and seasonings.<br />Common names: pea, sweet pea,<br />garden pea, sugar pea, English<br />pea<br />Botanical name: Pisum sativum<br />Origin: Europe, Near East<br />Varieties<br />Shelling types: Little Marvel (62<br />days); Frosty (64 days); Wando (75<br />days); Dwarf Grey Sugar (65<br />days). Edible-pod types: Giant<br />Melting (65 days); Melting Sugar<br />(69 days); Oregon Sugar Pod (75<br />days); Sugar Snap (65 days).<br />Description<br />Peas are hardy, weak-stemmed,<br />climbing annuals that have leaflike<br />stipules, leaves with one to<br />three pairs of leaflets, and tendrils<br />that they use for climbing. The<br />flowers are white, streaked, or<br />colored. The fruit is a pod<br />containing four to 10 seeds, either<br />smooth or wrinkled depending<br />on the variety. Custom has it that<br />you can make a wish if you find a<br />pea pod with nine or more<br />peas in it.<br />Edible-pod peas are a fairly<br />recent development. Grow them<br />the same way as sweet peas, but<br />harvest the immature pod before<br />the peas have developed to full<br />size. Peas have traditionally been a<br />difficult crop for the home<br />gardener to grow, with yields so<br />low that it was hardly worth<br />planting them. The introduction of<br />the new easy-to-grow varieties<br />of edible-pod peas has made<br />growing peas a manageable<br />undertaking for the home<br />gardener, and no garden should<br />be without them. All you need to<br />grow peas is cool weather and a<br />six-foot support trellis.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Peas are a cool-season crop that<br />must mature before the weather<br />gets hot. Ideal growing weather<br />for peas is moist and between 60°<br />and 65°F, Plant them as soon as<br />the soil can be worked in spring —<br />about six weeks before the<br />average date of last frost.<br />How to plant<br />Peas tolerate partial shade and<br />need good drainage in soil that is<br />high in organic material. They<br />produce earlier in sandy soil, but<br />yield a heavier, later crop if<br />grown in clay soil. Although<br />soaking seeds can speed<br />germination, a lot of seed can be<br />ruined by oversoaking, and<br />peas are harder to plant when<br />they're wet, because the seeds<br />tend to break. Before planting,<br />work a complete well-balanced<br />fertilizer into the soil at the rate of<br />one pound per 100 square feet<br />or 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet.<br />Plant the peas two inches deep,<br />one to two inches apart, in rows 18<br />to 24 inches apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Peas need ample moisture;<br />don't let the soil dry out. When the<br />vines are flowering, avoid<br />getting water on the plants; it may<br />damage the flowers and reduce<br />the crop.<br />Special handling<br />Provide trellises to support the<br />pea vines. Cultivate very gently to<br />avoid harming the fragile roots.<br />Pests<br />Aphids, rabbits, birds, and<br />people are attracted to pea vines.<br />Control aphids by pinching out<br />infested foliage or by hosing them<br />off the vines. Fence out the<br />rabbits, and discourage birds with<br />a scarecrow. Stern words may<br />do the trick with human<br />trespassers. Despite this<br />competition, peas are an excellent<br />crop for any garden. Detailed<br />information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Peas are susceptible to rot, wilt,<br />blight, mosaic, and mildew. New,<br />highly disease-resistant<br />varieties are available; use them to<br />cut down on disease problems<br />in your garden. You will also lessen<br />the incidence of disease if you<br />avoid handling the vines when<br />they're wet, and if you maintain<br />the general health and cleanliness<br />of the garden. If a plant does<br /><br />become diseased, remove and<br />destroy it before it can spread<br />disease to healthy plants. Detailed<br />information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Parti.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />from 55 to 80 days. A 10-foot row<br />may give you about three<br />pounds of pods. Pick shelling peas<br />when the pods are full and<br />green, before the peas start to<br />harden. Overmature peas are<br />nowhere near as tasty as young<br />ones; as peas increase in size,<br />the sugar content goes down as the<br />starch content goes up. Sugar<br />will also begin converting to starch<br />as soon as peas are picked. To<br />slow this process, chill the peas in<br />their pods as they are picked<br />and shell them immediately before<br />cooking.<br />Harvest edible-pod peas<br />before the peas mature. Pods<br />should be plump, but the<br />individual peas should not be<br />competely showing through the<br />pod.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Storing fresh shelling peas is<br />seldom an issue for home<br />gardeners; there are seldom<br />any left to store but they can be<br />stored in the refrigerator,<br />unshelled, up to one week. You<br />can sprout, freeze, can, or dry<br />peas. Dried peas can be stored in a<br />cool, dry place for 10 to 12<br />months. Edible-pod peas are also<br />so good raw that you may not<br />even get them as far as the kitchen.<br />If you do have any to spare, you<br />can store them in a plastic bag in<br />the refrigerator for seven to 10<br />days. Edible-pod peas also freeze<br />well and, unlike shelling peas.<br />lose little of their flavor when<br />frozen. Detailed information on<br />storing and preserving is given in<br />Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Freshly shelled peas are a luxury<br />seldom enjoyed by most people.<br />Cook them quickly in a little<br />water and serve them with butter<br />and chopped mint. Or add a<br />sprig of mint during cooking. Fresh<br />peas and boiled new potatoes<br />are the perfect accompaniment for<br />a lamb roast. Toss cold, cooked<br />peas into a salad, or add them to<br />potato salad — throw in diced<br />cooked carrots as well, and you've<br />got a Russian salad. Simmer<br />peas in butter with a handful of<br />lettuce tossed in at the end of<br />the cooking time. Or try lining the<br />pot with lettuce leaves and<br />cooking the peas briefly over low<br />heat. Add a few sauteed<br />mushrooms or onions for a<br />sophisticated vegetable dish.<br />Add edible pod peas to a stir-fry<br />dish — the rapid cooking<br />preserves their crisp texture and<br />delicate flavor. Eat them raw, or<br />use them alone, lightly steamed, as<br />a side dish.<br />Common names: pea, black-<br />eyed pea, cowpea, chowder<br />pea, southern pea, black-<br />eyed bean, China bean<br />Botanical name: Gigna sinensis<br />Origin: Asia<br />Varieties<br />California Black Eye (75 days);<br />Pink Eye Purple Hull (78 days);<br />Mississippi Silver (80 days).<br />Description<br />Black-eyed peas are tender<br />annuals that can be either bushy or<br />climbing plants, depending on<br />the variety. The seeds of the dwarf<br />varieties are usually white with a<br />dark spot (black eye) where they're<br />attached to the pod; sometimes<br />the spots are brown or purple.<br />Black-eyed peas originated in<br />Asia. Slave traders brought them to<br />Jamaica, where they became a<br />staple of the West Indies' diet.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Unlike sweet peas, black-eyed<br />peas tolerate high temperatures<br />but are very sensitive to<br />cold — the slightest frost will harm<br />them. They grow very well in the<br />South, but they don't grow well<br />from transplants, and some<br />Northern areas may not have a<br />long enough growing season to<br />accommodate them from seeds. If<br />your area has a long enough<br />warm season, plant black-eyed<br />peas from seed four weeks after<br />the average date of last frost.<br />How to plant<br />Black-eyed peas will tolerate<br />partial shade and will grow in very<br />poor soil. In fact, like other<br />legumes, they're often grown to<br />improve the soil. Well-drained,<br />well-worked soil that's high in<br />organic matter increases their<br />productivity. When you're<br />preparing the soil for planting,<br />work in a complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one<br />pound per 100 square feet or 10<br />pounds per 1,000 square feet.<br />Sow seeds half an inch deep and<br />about two inches apart in rows<br />two to three feet apart; when the<br />seedlings are large enough to<br />handle, thin them to three or four<br />inches apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Don't let the soil dry out, but<br />try to keep water off the flowers; it<br />may cause them to fall off, and<br />this will reduce the yield.<br />Pests<br />Beetles, aphids, spider mites,<br />and leafhoppers attack black-eyed<br />peas. Control aphids and<br />beetles physically by hand-picking<br />or hosing them off the plants,<br />pinch out aphid-infested<br />vegetation, or using a chemical<br />spray of Diazinon or Malathion.<br />Hose leafhoppers off the plants<br />or spray with carbaryl. Spider mites<br />are difficult to control even with<br />the proper chemicals; remove the<br />affected plants before the<br />spider mites spread, or spray the<br />undersides of the foliage with<br />Diazinon. Detailed information on<br />pest control is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Black-eyed peas are susceptible<br />to anthracnose, rust, mildews,<br />mosaic, and wilt. Planting<br />disease-resistant varieties when<br />possible and maintaining the<br />general cleanliness and health of<br />your garden will help cut down<br />the incidence of disease. To avoid<br />spreading disease, don't work<br />with the plants when they're wet. If<br />a plant does become infected,<br />remove it before it can spread<br />disease to healthy plants.<br />Detailed information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />from 70 to 110 days. You can eat<br />either the green pods or the<br />dried peas. Pick pods at whatever<br />stage of maturity you desire —<br />either young and tender or fully<br />matured to use dried.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Unshelled black-eyed peas can<br />be kept up to one week in the<br />refrigerator. Young black-eyed<br />peas can be frozen, pod and all;<br />the mature seeds can be dried,<br />canned, or frozen. Dried shelled<br />black-eyed peas can be stored in<br />a cool, dry place for 10 to 12<br />months. Detailed information<br />on storing and preserving is given<br />in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Eat young black-eyed peas in the<br />pod like snap beans; dry the<br />shelled peas for use in<br /> <br />casseroles and soups. Combine<br />cooked black-eyed peas and<br />rice, season with red pepper<br />sauce, and bake until hot; or<br />simmer the peas with pork or<br />bacon for a classic Southern<br />dish.<br />Common name: peanut<br />Botanical name: Arachis<br />hypogaea<br />Origin: South America<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available. Try<br />either Virginia or Spanish peanuts,<br />whichever is available in your<br />area. If you can find raw peanuts at<br />the grocery store, plant those.<br />Description<br />The peanut is a tender annual<br />belonging to the pea family. It<br />grows six inches to 21/2 feet tall,<br />depending on whether it's the<br />bunch type, which grows<br />upright, or the runner type, which<br />spreads out over the ground.<br />Small clusters of yellow, sweet-<br />pea-like flowers grow on stems<br />called pegs. The pegs grow down<br />and push into the soil, and the<br />nuts develop from them one to<br />three inches underground. You<br />can grow a peanut plant indoors if<br />you give it lots of sunlight; it's a<br />novel and entertaining<br />houseplant.<br />Peanuts are 30 percent<br />protein and 40 to 50 percent oil.<br />George Washington Carver<br />made over 117 separate products<br />out of peanuts.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Peanuts need a frost-free<br />growing season four to five<br />months long. They're not grown<br />commercially north of<br />Washington, D.C., but they can<br />be grown for fun much farther<br />north. If your growing season is<br />short, start the peanuts in pots<br />inside, and then transplant<br />them outdoors when the weather<br />warms up. Start them two weeks<br />before your average date of last<br />frost, and transplant them<br />outside two to three weeks after<br />your average date of last frost.<br />How to plant<br />Peanuts like well-worked sandy<br />soil that is high in organic matter.<br />The pegs have difficulty<br />penetrating a heavy clay soil.<br />When you're preparing the soil<br />for planting, work in a complete,<br />well-balanced fertilizer at the<br />rate of one pound per 100 square<br />feet or 10 pounds per 1,000<br />square feet. Plant either shelled<br />raw peanuts or transplants six to<br />eight inches apart, in rows 12 to 18<br />inches apart. If you're growing<br />from seed, plant the seeds one to<br />three inches deep. Grow them<br />in double rows to save space.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Keep soil moisture even until<br />the plants start to flower, then<br />water less. Blind (empty) pods<br />are the result of too much rain or<br />humidity at flowering time.<br />Special handling<br />Use a heavy mulch to keep the<br />soil surface from becoming<br />hard — the peanut pegs will not<br />have to work so hard to become<br />established in the soil.<br />Mulching will also make<br />harvesting easier.<br />Pests<br />Local rodents will be delighted<br />that you've become a peanut<br />farmer. Discourage them by<br />removing their hiding places and<br />fencing them out of your<br />garden. Peanuts have no other<br />serious pest problems. In warm<br />climates they are a good crop for<br />the organic gardener. Detailed<br />information on control is given in<br />"Keeping Your Garden Healthy"<br />in Part 1..<br />Diseases<br />Peanuts have no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />120 to 150 days. Your yield depends<br />on the variety of peanut and the<br />weather at the time of flowering,<br />but usually there are not as<br />many peanuts as you might<br />imagine. Start harvesting when<br />the plants begin to suffer from<br />frost. Pull up the whole plant<br />and let the pods dry on the vine.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Shelled peanuts can be<br />sprouted, frozen, or used for<br />peanut butter, or roasted for<br />snacks. Dried shelled peanuts can<br />be stored in a cool, dry place for<br />10 to 12 months. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />You probably won't be able to<br />resist eating your peanuts as<br />snacks, but if you've got lots,<br />make peanut butter. Run the nuts<br />through a meat grinder for<br />crunchy peanut butter; for the<br />smooth kind put them in the<br />blender. And imagine homemade<br />peanut butter cookies with<br />homegrown peanuts — you'll be<br />one up on everyone at the<br />school bazaar. Add peanuts and<br />candied orange peel to a fudge<br />recipe — it makes a delicious<br />crunchy candy.<br />Common names: pepper, bell<br />pepper, sweet pepper, hot<br />pepper, wax pepper, chili<br />pepper, pimento<br />Botanical names: Capsicum<br />frutescens (hot pepper),<br />Capsicum annuum (sweet<br />and hot peppers)<br />Origin: New World tropics<br />Varieties<br />Peppers come in bell (sweet) or<br />hot varieties. The bell peppers are<br />the most familiar; most are<br />sweet, but there are a few hot<br />varieties. They're usually<br />harvested when green, but will<br />turn red (or occasionally yellow)<br />if left on the plant. Hot peppers —<br />sometimes called chili<br />peppers — are intensely flavored,<br />and there are more than a<br />hundred varieties. Ask your<br />Cooperative Extension Service<br />for specific recommendations for<br />your area.<br />The following are reliable<br />varieties for general use; the<br />initials TM indicate resistance to<br />tobacco mosaic disease. Bell<br />(sweet) peppers: Bell Boy (TM, 75<br />control aphids with Malathion<br />or Diazinon, and flea beetles with<br />carbaryl. Carbaryl can also be<br />used to control cutworms; apply it<br />to the base of the plants.<br />Detailed information on pest<br />control is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />Diseases<br />Pepper plants are susceptible to<br />rot, blossom end rot, anthracnose,<br />tobacco mosaic virus, bacterial<br />spot, and mildew. Planting<br />disease-resistant varieties and<br />maintaining the general<br />cleanliness and health of your<br />garden will help cut down the<br />incidence of disease. If a plant<br />does become infected, remove it<br />before it can spread disease to<br />healthy plants. If you smoke, wash<br />your hands before working with<br />the plants to avoid spreading<br />tobacco mosaic virus. Detailed<br />information on disease prevention<br />is given in "Keeping Your<br />Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />If you want sweet red peppers,<br />leave your sweet green peppers on<br />the vine until they ripen and<br />turn red. Cut the peppers off the<br />vine; if you pull them off half the<br />plant may come up with the fruit.<br />Hot peppers can irritate skin, so<br />wear gloves when you pick them.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Peppers will keep up to one<br />week in the refrigerator or for two<br />to three weeks in a cool, moist<br />place. Sweet or hot peppers can be<br />pickled whole or in pieces, or<br />they can be chopped and frozen or<br />dried. Whole peppers can be<br />strung up to dry — a wreath of hot<br />peppers makes a great kitchen<br />decoration. Detailed information<br />on storing and preserving is<br />given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Stuffed, raw, pickled, or<br />roasted, sweet and hot peppers<br />add lively flavor to any meal.<br />Stuff sweet peppers with tuna,<br />chicken, a rice and meat<br />mixture, or chili con carne. For a<br />vegetarian dish, stuff them with<br />rice and chopped vegetables, a<br />cheese mixture, or seasoned<br />breadcrumbs. Stuff raw peppers<br />with cream cheese, slice into<br />rings, and serve in a salad. Use<br />thick rings in a dish of vegetables<br />for tempura. French-fry peppers,<br />or fry them Italian-style in oil<br />and garlic. Use chopped peppers<br />in chili and spaghetti sauce<br />recipes, and add a spoonful of<br />chopped hot pepper to a<br />creamy corn soup for an<br />interesting flavor contrast.<br />When you're preparing raw<br />hot peppers, cut and wash them<br />under running water and wash<br />your hands well when you're<br />finished. Avoid rubbing your<br />eyes while handling hot peppers.<br />Milk is more soothing than<br />water for washing the hot pepper's<br />sting from your skin.<br />Common names: potato, white<br />potato, Irish potato<br />Botanical name: Solanum<br />tuberosum<br />Origin: Chile, Peru, Mexico<br />Varieties<br />There are more than 100<br />varieties of potatoes in the United<br />States, and they fall into four<br />basic categories: long whites,<br />round whites, russets, and<br />round reds. The most important<br />variety is Russet Burbank, but it<br />does not grow successfully in all<br />areas. Good white varieties for<br />general use are Irish Cobbler (75<br />days) and Norchip (90 days).<br />Good red varieties for general use<br />are Norland (75 days) and Red La<br />Soda (110 to 120 days). Because<br />there are so many varieties, and<br />the results you get will vary<br />according to growing conditions<br />in your area, ask your<br />Cooperative Extension Service for<br />specific recommendations for<br />your area.<br />Description<br />The potato is a perennial grown<br />as an annual. It's a weak-stemmed<br />plant with hairy, dark green<br />compound leaves that look a little<br />like tomato leaves, and it<br />produces underground stem<br />tubers when mature. The potato<br />is a member of the solanaceous<br />family, and is related to the<br />tomato, the eggplant, and the<br />pepper; it originated at high<br />altitudes and still prefers cool<br />nights.<br />Potatoes haven't always been<br />as commonplace as they are now.<br />They grew in temperate regions<br />along the Andes for a couple of<br />thousand years before Spanish<br />explorers introduced them to<br />Europe in the 16th century. To<br />encourage the growing of<br />potatoes, Louis XVI of France<br />wore potato flowers in his<br />buttonhole, and Marie<br />Antoinette wore a wreath of<br />potato flowers in her hair to a ball.<br />But the people didn't become<br />interested in potatoes until an<br />armed guard was assigned to<br />watch the royal potato patch.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Potatoes need a frost-free<br />growing season of 90 to 120 days.<br />They're a cool- weather crop,<br />and they grow best in areas with a<br />fairly cool summer; the ideal<br />potato-growing temperature is 60°<br />to 70°F. Hot weather cuts down<br />on the production of tubers. Grow<br />potatoes in summer in the<br />North, and in fall, winter, and<br />spring in the South. Plant early<br />varieties just before your average<br />date of last frost, and plant fall<br />crops 120 days before the average<br />date of the first fall frost. If your<br />season is short, plant as soon as<br />possible for a late crop.<br />How to plant<br />Potatoes are grown from whole<br />potatoes or pieces of potatoes —<br />these are called seed pieces;<br />each piece must have at least one<br />eye. Always plant certified<br />disease-free seed pieces, and<br />don't try to use supermarket<br />potatoes, which have been<br />chemically treated to prevent<br />sprouting. Some suppliers are<br />experimenting with potatoes<br />grown from actual seed, but these<br />have yet to prove themselves,<br />and the use of potato seed is not<br />recommended at this stage.<br />Potatoes need well-drained<br />fertile soil, high in organic matter,<br />with pH of 5.0 to 5.5. Adding<br />lime to improve the soil and<br />reduce acidity usually increases<br />the size of the crop, but it also<br />increases the incidence of<br />scab — a condition that affects<br />the skin of the potato but not the<br />eating quality. When you're<br />preparing the soil for planting,<br />work in a complete, well-balanced 18 inches apart, in rows 24 to 36<br />fertilizer at the rate of one inches apart. You can also plant<br />pound per 100 square feet or 10 in a trench or on top of the ground<br />pounds per 1,000 square feet. and cover them with a thick<br />Plant potatoes or potato pieces in mulch, such as 12 Inches of straw<br />full sun, four inches deep, 12 to or hay. For a very compact plant,<br />you can grow potatoes in barrels,<br />old tires, or large bags — as the<br />plant grows you add layers of soil<br />to cover the leaves and stems.<br />This encourages the plant to<br />produce new tubers.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />For the best production, try to<br />maintain even soil moisture;<br />watering before the soil dries<br />out. A thick mulch will conserve<br />soil moisture, keep down<br />weeds, and keep the soil from<br />getting too warm.<br />Pests<br />Colorado potato bugs,<br />leafhoppers, flea beetles, and<br />aphids attack potatoes. Spray<br />Colorado potato bugs,<br />leafhoppers and flea beetles<br />with carbaryl. Spray aphids with<br />Malathion. Detailed<br />information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Part 1. Potatoes have so<br />many pest problems they may<br />not be a good choice for the<br />organic gardener.<br />Diseases<br />Potatoes are susceptible to<br />blight and to scab, which causes a<br />curly roughness of the skin but<br />does not affect the eating quality of<br />the potato. Plant resistant<br />varieties for the best results,<br />especially for large plantings,<br />and use seed certified as true to<br />type and free of disease.<br />Maintaining the general health and<br />cleanliness of your garden will<br />also lessen the incidence of<br />disease. If a plant does become<br />infected, remove and destroy it to<br />avoid spreading disease to<br />healthy plants. Detailed<br />information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Parti.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />75 to 130 days, and a 10-foot row<br />will give you eight to 10 pounds<br />of potatoes. Each plant will<br />probably produce three to six<br />regular-size potatoes and a<br />number of small ones. Potatoes<br />are fun to grow, and the young<br />new potatoes are delicious. Dig<br />up new potatoes after the plant<br />blooms, or if it doesn't bloom,<br />after the leaves start to yellow. For<br />potatoes that taste like storeboughtones,<br />dig up the tubers two<br />weeks after the vine dies in fall.<br />Use a spading fork to dig the<br />potatoes, and be as gentle as<br />possible to avoid bruising or<br />damaging the skins.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Cure potatoes in a dark, humid<br />place for 10 days at 60° to 65°F; then<br />store them in a cold, moderately<br />moist place for four to six months.<br />Be careful not to let them get<br />wet, or they'll rot. Do not<br />refrigerate them. Prepared or<br />new potatoes freeze well and<br />potatoes can also be dried.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Potatoes are wonderfully<br />versatile in the kitchen — you can<br />boil, bake, roast, fry, puree,<br />saute, and stuff them. The<br />enterprising cook can serve a<br />different potato dish every day for<br />a month. Small new potatoes<br />are delicious boiled and tossed in<br />butter and parsley or mint;<br />don't peel them. Stuff potatoes<br />with tuna and spinach for a<br />nourishing all-in-one dish. Enjoy<br />low-calorie fries by brushing the<br />fries all over with oil and baking<br />them in a single layer on a<br />cookie sheet. Pipe pureed<br />potatoes around the edge of a<br />dish for an elegant garnish. Add<br />cubed, cooked potatoes with<br />other vegetables to an omelette or<br />frittata. Don't throw away<br />potato skins — they're full of<br />goodness. Deep fry them, or<br />simmer them to make stock. When<br />you're mashing potatoes use<br />hot milk, not cold — they'll be<br />lighter and fluffier; a teaspoon<br />of baking powder will have the<br />same effect.<br />A nonedible use for potatoes:<br />Cut a potato in half, and carve a<br />picture or design on the cut<br />surface; ink it, and press on paper<br />for an instant block print. It's a<br />splendid way of keeping the<br />children busy on a wet<br />afternoon.<br />Common name: pumpkin<br />Botanical names: Cucurbita<br />maxima, Cucurbita moschata,<br />Cucurbita pepo<br />Origin: tropical America<br />Varieties<br />Small pumpkins are grown<br />primarily for cooking;<br />intermediate and large sizes for<br />cooking and for making jack-o'lanterns;<br />and the very large<br />jumbo ones mainly for exhibition.<br />The bush and semi-vining<br />varieties are best suited to small<br />home gardens. The following<br />are a few of the varieties available,<br />and unless otherwise indicated<br />they are the vining kind. Ask<br />your Cooperative Extension<br />Service for other specific<br />recommendations for your<br />area. Small (four to six pounds, 100110<br />days): Early Sweet Sugar;<br />Luxury; Spookie; Sugar Pie.<br />Intermediate (eight to 15 pounds,<br />100-110 days): Cinderella (bush);<br />Green-Striped Cushaw; Jack-<br />O'-Lantern; Spirit (semi-vining).<br />Large (15 to 25 pounds, 100 days):<br />Big Tom; Connecticut Field;<br />Halloween; White Cushaw.<br />Jumbo (50 to 100 pounds, 120 days):<br />Big Max; King of the Mammoths.<br />Description<br />Pumpkins are tender annuals<br />with large leaves on branching<br />vines that can grow 20 feet long.<br />The male and female flowers —<br />sometimes as large as eight<br />inches in diameter — grow on the<br />same vine, and the fruit can<br />weigh as much as 100 pounds. The<br />name pumpkin is also given to a<br />number of other squashes and<br />gourds — anything that's<br />orange and hard. The harvest<br />poem reference, "when the<br />frost is on the pumpkin," means<br />the first light frost, not a hard<br />freeze. The first pumpkin pies<br />were made by pouring milk into<br />a pumpkin and baking it.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Pumpkins need a long growing<br />season; they will grow almost<br />anywhere in the United States,<br />but in cooler areas you'll do better<br />with a smaller variety. Pumpkins<br />are sensitive to cold soil and frost.<br />Plant them from seed two to<br />three weeks after your average<br />date of last frost when the soil<br />has warmed up. Pumpkins are<br />relatively easy to grow so long as<br />you have space to accommodate<br />them. They're not the vegetable<br />to grow in a small home garden,<br />although you can train them on<br />afence or trellis, and the bush type<br />requires less space than the<br />vining varieties.<br />How to plant<br />Pumpkins can tolerate partial<br />shade and prefer well-drained soil,<br />high in organic matter. Too<br />much fertilizer tends to encourage<br />the growth of the vines rather<br />than the production of pumpkins.<br />When you're preparing the soil<br />for planting, work in a complete,<br />well-balanced fertilizer at the<br />rate of one pound per 100 square<br />feet or 10 pounds per 1,000<br />square feet. Plant pumpkins in<br />inverted hills, made by<br />removing an inch of soil from a<br />circle 12 inches in diameter and<br />using the soil to build up a rim<br />around the circle; leave six feet<br />betv^een hills. Plant six to eight<br />seeds in each hill, and thin to<br />two or three when the seedlings<br />appear. When the seedlings<br />have four to six true leaves, thin to<br />only one plant in each hill. Cut<br />off the thinned seedlings at soil<br />level to avoid disturbing the<br />roots of the chosen survivor. One<br />early fruit can suppress the<br />production of any more<br />pumpkins. Some people<br />suggest removing this first<br />pumpkin, but this is a gamble<br />because there's no guarantee that<br />others will set. If you remove it,<br />eat it like squash.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Be generous with water;<br />pumpkins need plenty of water to<br />keep the vines and fruit growing<br />steadily.<br />Pests<br />Squash vine borers attack<br />pumpkins, and if the plant is<br />wilting it may be that borers are<br />to blame. Prevention is better than<br />cure with borers, because once<br />the pest is inside the plant,<br />chemical controls won't help. IT<br />you suspect borers are at work,<br />apply carbaryl to the crown of<br />the plant at weekly intervals. If the<br />vine wilts from a definite point<br />onward, look for a very thin wall or<br />hole near the point where the<br />wilting starts. The culprit may still<br />be there, but you may still be<br />able to save the plant. Slit the stem,<br />remove the borer and dispose<br />of it, then cover the stem with soil<br />to encourage rooting at that<br />point. Detailed information on<br />pest control is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />Diseases<br />Pumpkins are susceptible to<br />mildew, anthracnose, and<br />bacterial wilt. Planting disease-<br />resistant varieties when possible,<br />maintaining the general<br />cleanliness and health of your<br />garden, and not handling the<br />vines when wet will help cut down<br />the incidence of disease. If a<br />plant does become infected,<br />remove it before it can spread<br />disease to healthy plants. Detailed<br />information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />95 to 120 days. A 10-foot row may<br />give you one to three pumpkins —<br />when you're talking pumpkins,<br />your back yard starts to look like<br />small potatoes. Leave the<br />pumpkins on the vine as long as<br />possible before a frost, but not<br />too long — they become very soft<br />when they freeze. Cut off the<br />pumpkin with one or two inches of<br />stem.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Cure pumpkins in a dark, humid<br />place for 10 days at 80° to 85°F; then<br />store them at 50° to 55°F, in a dry<br />place for three to six months. Do<br />not refrigerate. Stored pumpkins<br />will shrink as much as 20 percent<br />in weight; they'll still make good<br />pies, but they look sad if kept<br />too long. You can dry or pickle<br />pumpkin, or freeze or can the<br />cooked pulp. You can also<br />sprout pumpkin seeds. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Spice up the cooked pumpkin<br />flesh for pie fillings, breads, or<br />muffins; or use it in custards, or<br />as a stuffing for meats or<br />vegetables. Roast the seeds for a<br />nutritious snack. If a pumpkin has<br />served only briefly as a jack-o'lantern,<br />you can still use the flesh<br />for cooking.<br />Common name: radish<br />Botanical name: Raphanus<br />sativus (spring radish),<br />Raphanus sativus<br />longipinnatus (winter radish)<br />Origin: temperate Asia<br />Varieties<br />Radishes can be grown for a<br />spring or winter crop. Spring<br />varieties are the commonly<br />known small red varieties. Winter<br />radishes are larger and more<br />oval and can grow eight or nine<br />inches long. The following are a<br />few of the varieties available.<br />Spring crop: Cherry Belle (22<br />days); Burpee White (25 days).<br />Winter crop: Black Spanish (55<br />days); White Chinese (60 days).<br />Description<br />Radishes are hardy annuals or<br />biennials that produce white, red,<br />or black roots and stems under a<br />rosette of lobed leaves. They're<br />fun to grow, and youngsters get<br />hooked on gardening after<br />growing radishes more than any<br />other vegetable. A bunch of<br />radishes, well washed, makes a<br />great posy to give away. Radishes<br />are distant relations to<br />horseradish.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Radishes are cool-season crops<br />and can take temperatures below<br />freezing. You can grow them<br />anywhere in the United States, and<br />they mature in such a short time<br />that you can get two to three crops<br />in spring alone. Start planting<br />them from seed in the garden two<br />or three weeks before the<br />average date of last frost for your<br />area. Radishes germinate<br />quickly and are often used with<br />slower-growing seeds to mark<br />the rows. Spring radishes produce<br />a crop so fast that in the<br />excitement very few people ask<br />about the quality of the crop.<br />Radishes can also be grown in six-<br />inch pots in a bright, cool<br />window. They will grow in sand if<br />watered with liquid, all-purpose<br />fertilizer diluted to quarter<br />strength.<br />How to plant<br />Radishes tolerate partial shade<br />and like well-worked, well-drained<br />soil. When you're preparing the<br />soil for planting, work in a<br />complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10 pounds<br />per 1,000 square feet. If you're<br />planting winter radishes, be<br />sure to loosen the soil well and<br />remove soil lumps or rocks that<br />might cause the roots to become<br />deformed. Plant seeds half an<br />inch deep in rows or wide rows 12<br />to 18 inches apart. When the<br />seedlings are large enough to<br />handle, thin them according to<br />the variety; thin small spring<br />varieties one to three inches<br />apart, and give winter varieties a<br />little more space.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Give radishes enough water<br />to keep the roots growing quickly.<br />If the water supply is low,<br />radishes become woody.<br />Special handling<br />Radishes sometimes bolt, or go<br />to seed, in the summer, but this is<br />more often a question of day<br />length than of temperature. Cover<br />the plants in midsummer<br />so they only get an eight-hour<br />day; a 12-hour day produces<br />flowers and seeds but no radishes.<br />Pests<br />Aphids and root maggots<br />occasionally attack radishes, but<br />you harvest radishes so quickly<br />that pests are not a serious<br />problem. You can pinch out<br />aphid-infested foliage, and drench<br />the soil around the plants with<br />Diazinon to control root maggots.<br />Detailed information on pest<br />control is given in "Keeping Your<br />Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />Diseases<br />Radishes have no serious<br />disease problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />20 to 30 days for spring radishes, 50<br />to 60 days for winter radishes.<br />Pull up the whole plant when the<br />radishes are the right size. Test-<br />pull a few or push the soil aside<br />gently to judge the size, and<br />remember that the biggest<br />radishes aren't necessarily the<br />best. If you wait too long to<br />harvest, the centers of spring<br />radishes become pithy.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Radishes will store for one to<br />two weeks in the refrigerator. You<br />can also sprout radish seeds.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Radishes can be sculptured into<br />rosettes or just sliced into a salad.<br />They are low in calories and<br />make good cookie substitutes<br />when you have to nibble. Put<br />radishes on a relish tray, or on a<br />platter of vegetables for<br />dipping. Try "pickling" the excess<br />crop by mincing them and<br />marinating in vinegar.<br />Common names: rhubarb, pie<br />plant<br />Botanical name: Rheum<br />rhaponticum<br />Origin: southern Siberia<br />Varieties<br />Canada Red; MacDonald;<br />Valentine; Victoria (green stalks).<br />Description<br />A hardy perennial, rhubarb<br />grows two to four feet tall, with<br />large, attractive leaves on strong<br />stalks. The leaf stalks are red or<br />green and grow up from a<br />rhizome or underground stem,<br />and the flowers are small and<br />grow on top of a flower stalk. Don't<br />allow the plant to reach the<br />flowering stage; remove the<br />flower stalk when it first<br />appears. You eat only the rhubarb<br />stalks; the leaves contain a toxic<br />substance and are not for eating.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Rhubarb is very hardy and<br />prefers cool weather. In areas<br />where the weather is warm or<br />hot, the leaf stalks are thin and<br />spindly. Rhubarb can be grown<br />from seed, but the plants will not<br />grow "true" — which means<br />they won't be the same variety as<br />the parent plant. Crow from the<br />divisions that grow up from the<br />parent stems for a close or exact<br />copy of the parent plant. Buy<br />divisions or divide your own<br />plants in spring, about four to six<br />weeks before the average date<br />of last frost. The timing is not<br />crucial, because you won't<br />harvest rhubarb the first year.<br />Refer to "Planting Your Garden"<br />in Part 1 for information on<br />dividing plants.<br />How to plant<br />Rhubarb likes rich, well-worked<br />soil that is high in organic matter<br />and drains well. Give it a place in<br />full sun or light shade. When<br />you're preparing the soil for<br />planting, work in a complete, well-<br />balanced fertilizer at the rate of<br />one pound per 100 square feet or<br />10 pounds per 1,000 square feet.<br />you're ready to use them; in<br />very cold areas, mulch them<br />heavily. Store rutabagas in a<br />cold, moist place for two to four<br />months; do not refrigerate.<br />They can also be frozen. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Peel rutabagas and steam or boil<br />until tender; then mash them for<br />use in puddings and pancakes.<br />They can also be served sliced or<br />diced. Add rutabagas to<br />vegetable soups and stews. Saute<br />them in butter with apples and<br />brown sugar. Rutabaga is very<br />good with lots of butter or sour<br />cream; low-calorie alternatives<br />are yogurt or low-fat cream<br />cheese.<br />Common names: salsify, oyster<br />plant<br />Botanical name: Tragopogon<br />porrifolius<br />Origin: southern Europe<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available; grow<br />the variety available in your area.<br />Description<br />Salsify is a hardy biennial grown<br />as an annual. It's related to<br />dandelion and chicory, and its<br />flowers look like lavender chicory<br />blossoms. The edible part is the<br />long taproot. This salsify should<br />not be confused with black<br />salsify (Scorzonera hispanica) or<br />Spanish salsify (Scolymus<br />hispanicus); both of these are<br />related to the radish. Some<br />people claim that salsify has a slight<br />oyster flavor — hence the name<br />"oyster plant." In fact, it tastes<br />rather like artichoke hearts.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Salsify is hardy and tolerates<br />cold. Like its prolific cousin, the<br />dandelion, it's very easy to grow<br />and will grow anywhere in the<br />United States. Plant salsify from<br />seed two or three weeks before<br />your area's average date of last<br />frost.<br />How to plant<br />Plant salsify seeds in full sun in<br />rich, well-worked soil. When<br />you're preparing the soil for<br />planting, work in a complete, well-<br />balanced fertilizer at the rate of<br />one pound per 100 square feet or<br />10 pounds per 1,000 square feet.<br />Work the soil thoroughly to a<br />depth of eight to 12 inches, and<br />remove all stones, soil lumps, or<br />rocks that might cause the roots<br />to fork and split. Plant the seeds<br />half an inch deep in rows 18 to 24<br />inches apart, and when the<br />seedlings are large enough to<br />handle, thin them to stand two to<br />four inches apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Don't overfertilize salsify; it will<br />cause the roots to fork and split.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Keep salsify evenly moist to<br />prevent the roots from getting<br />stringy.<br />Pests<br />Salsify has no serious pest<br />problems.<br />Diseases<br />Salsify has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />about 120 days, and a 10-foot rov^<br />should yield 20 to 40 roots.<br />Salsify roots can take freezing, so<br />leave them in the ground as long<br />as possible until you want them.<br />The longer they're out of the<br />ground, the less they taste like<br />oysters. To harvest, dig up the<br />whole root.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Cut the tops off salsify and store<br />the roots in the refrigerator for one<br />to three weeks, or store in a<br />cold, moist place for two to four<br />months. For freezing, handle<br />salsify like parsnips. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Salsify roots should not be<br />peeled before cooking; they can<br />"bleed'." Scrub them clean,<br />steam, and slice them, then dip the<br />slices in batter or breadcrumbs<br />and fry; serve with tartar sauce.<br />People who have never had<br />oysters can't tell them apart. Try<br />salsify braised with lemon and<br />butter — the lemon helps preserve<br />the color. Or serve it with a<br />white sauce; add chopped parsley<br />for color.<br />Common name: shallot<br />Botanical name: Allium cepa<br />Origin: Asia<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available; grow<br />the variety available in your area.<br />Description<br />The shallot is a very hardy<br />biennial grown as an annual, and<br />it's a member of the onion<br />family. It's believed that French<br />knights returning from the<br />Crusades introduced them to<br />Europe, and that De Soto<br />brought them to America in 1532.<br />Shallot plants grow about eight<br />inches tall in a clump, with narrow<br />green leaves, and look very<br />much like small onions; they're<br />favorites with gourmets. The<br />roots are very shallow and fibrous,<br />and the bulbs are about a half<br />inch in diameter when mature. The<br />small bulbs have a more delicate<br />flavor than regular onions. Use the<br />young outer leaves like chives.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Shallots are easy to grow and<br />very hardy. You can grow them<br />anywhere in the United States<br />from cloves planted early in spring.<br /> <br />How to plant<br />Shallots can be grown in any soil<br />but may have less flavor when<br />they're grown in clay soils.<br />Shallots are very shallow-rooted<br />plants and need little soil<br />preparation. Although they prefer<br />full sun, they'll survive in partial<br />shade. Shallots seldom form seed,<br />so they're usually grown from<br />cloves, which should be planted<br />four to six weeks before your<br />average date of last frost. When<br />you're preparing the soil for<br />planting, work in a complete, well-<br />balanced fertilizer at the rate of<br />one pound per 100 square feet or<br />10 pounds per 1,000 square feet.<br />Plant the cloves six to eight inches<br />apart in rows 12 inches apart,<br />and set them so that the tops of the<br />cloves are even with the soil, but<br />no deeper. Keep them carefully<br />cultivated when they're small;<br />the shallow root systems don't like<br />to compete with weeds.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Water the shallots regularly;<br />do not allow the soil to dry out.<br />Pests<br />Shallots have no serious pest<br />problems.<br />Diseases<br />Shallots have no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Cut the green shallot leaves<br />throughout the growing season,<br />but be careful not to cut away<br />any new growth coming from the<br />central stem. Dig up bulbs when<br />the tops wither and fall over.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Store shallots in the refrigerator<br />for up to one week or store the<br />bulbs like onions in a cold, dry<br />place for two to eight months. You<br />can also freeze or dry them like<br />onions. The greens can be<br />chopped and frozen like chives.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Shallots have a delicate flavor<br />and are less overpowering than<br />many onions. They're very good<br />stirred into sour cream as a<br />dressing for vegetables or fish,<br />or chopped and added to an oil-<br />and-vinegar dressing for salads.<br />Use the small bulbs in the classic<br />French beef stew, boeuf<br />bourguignonne.<br />Common names: garden sorrel,<br />herb patience or spinach dock,<br />French sorrel, spinach<br />rhubarb.<br />Botanical name: Rumex acetosa,<br />Rumex patientia, Rumex<br />scutatus, Rumex abyssinicus.<br />Origin: Europe<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available<br />commercially; grow the variety<br />available in your area. Garden<br />sorrel, French sorrel, and herb<br />patience or spinach dock are all<br />good for eating.<br />Description<br />Several varieties of sorrel will do<br />well in your garden. Garden sorrel<br />(R. acetosa) grows about three<br />feet tall and produces leaves that<br />are good used fresh in salads;<br />herb patience or spinach dock (R.<br />patientia) is a much taller plant,<br />with leaves that can be used either<br />fresh or cooked. French sorrel<br />(R. scutatus) grows only six to 12<br />inches tall; its fiddle-shaped<br />leaves make good salad greens.<br />Spinach rhubarb (R.<br />abyssinicus) is a lofty plant— it<br />grows up to eight feet tall. As the<br />name suggests, you can cook the<br />leaves like spinach and the<br />stalks like rhubarb. Avoid other<br />varieties — they're weeds and<br />not good for eating.<br />Where and when to grow<br />All the sorrels are very hardy and<br />can be grown in almost every area<br />of the United States. Start them<br />from seed in the early spring<br />before your average date of last<br />frost.<br />How to plant<br />All the sorrels require a sunny<br />location with well-drained, fertile<br />soil. When you're preparing the<br />soil, dig in a complete, well-<br />balanced fertilizer at the rate of<br />one pound per 100 square feet or<br />10 pounds per 1,000 feet. Plant<br />sorrels from seed two to three<br />weeks before the average date<br />of last frost. Plant the seeds a half<br />inch deep in rows 18 to 24 inches<br />apart, and when the plants are six<br />to eight weeks old, thin them to<br />12 to 18 inches apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Part 1.<br />Sorrel plants should be kept<br />moist; water them more often than<br />the rest of the garden.<br />Pests<br />Aphids will probably show<br />interest in your sorrel. Control<br />them by pinching out infested<br />areas or hosing the aphids off the<br />plants; or spray with Malathion<br />or Diazinon. Detailed information<br />on pest control is given in<br />"Keeping Your Garden Healthy" in<br />Part 1.<br />Diseases<br />Sorrel has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Pick the fresh leaves of the<br />sorrel throughout the growing<br />season. Pick off the flowers<br />before they mature to keep the<br />plants producing new leaves<br />long into the fall.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Use sorrel fresh, or store sorrel<br />leaves in the refrigerator for one to<br />two weeks. You can also freeze<br />or dry the leaves as herbs, but<br />you'll lose some flavor. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />You can use sorrel leaves raw, as<br />salad greens or very lightly<br />steamed or boiled and tossed in<br />butter. Sorrel soup is a classic<br />French favorite, and the<br />Russians use sorrel in a green<br />borscht soup. In the time of<br />Henry VIII, sorrel was used as a<br />spice and to tenderize meat.<br />The English also mashed the leaves<br />with vinegar and sugar as a<br />dressing for meat and fish —<br />hence the name green sauce.<br />Common name: soybean<br />Botanical name: Glycine max<br />Origin: East Asia<br />Varieties<br />A number of varieties have been<br />bred to adapt to certain types of<br />climate. Ask your Cooperative<br />Extension Service for specific<br />recommendations for your area.<br />Description<br />The soybean is a tender, free-<br />branching annual legume. Though<br />it can grow five feet tall, it's<br />usually only two to 3y2 feet tall. The<br />stems and leaves are hairy; the<br />flowers are white with lavender<br />shading, and the pods are one to<br />four inches long and grow in<br />clusters. The soybean is<br />extremely high in protein and<br />calcium and is a staple of a<br />vegetarian diet. It's also very<br />versatile and can be used to<br />make milk, oil, tofu, or a meat<br />substitute. The ancient Chinese<br />considered the soybean their most<br />important crop. The United<br />States now produces about 75<br />percent of the world's soybeans.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Soybeans are sensitive to cold<br />and most varieties have a narrow<br />latitude range in which they will<br />mature properly and produce a<br />good crop. Plant a variety suited<br />to your area about two to three<br />weeks after the average date of<br />last frost. Don't plant before the<br />soil has warmed up.<br />How to plant<br />After the last frost is over,<br />choose a bed in full sunlight;<br />soybeans tolerate partial shade,<br />but partial shade tends to mean a<br />partial yield. Prepare the soil by<br />mixing in a pound of 5-10-10<br />fertilizer — don't use a high-<br />nitrogen fertilizer, because too<br />much nitrogen will promote<br />growth of foliage but not of the<br />beans. Work the fertilizer into<br />the soil at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10 pounds<br />per 1,000 square feet. The seeds<br />may crack and germinate poorly<br />when the moisture content of the<br />soil is too high. Don't soak the<br />seeds before planting, and don't<br />overwater immediately<br />afterwards.<br />Plant seeds an inch deep, one<br />to two inches apart in rows 24 to 30<br />inches apart. When the seedlings<br />are growing well, thin the plants<br />to two inches apart. Cut the<br />seedlings with scissors at<br />ground level; be careful not to<br />disturb the others. Soybeans<br />don't mind being a little crowded;<br />in fact, they'll use each other for<br />support.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Soybeans set up a mutual<br />exchange with soil<br />microorganisms called<br />nitrogen-fixing bacteria, which<br />help them produce their own<br />fertilizer. Some gardeners<br />recommend that if you haven't<br />grown soybeans or beans in the<br />plot the previous season, you<br />should treat the seeds before<br />planting with a nitrogen-fixing<br />bacteria inoculant to help them<br />convert organic nitrogen<br />compounds into usable organic<br />compounds. This is a perfectly<br />acceptable practice, but it isn't<br />really necessary; the bacteria in<br />the soil will multiply quickly<br />enough once they've got a<br />growing plant to work with.<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Keep the soil moist until the<br />soybeans have pushed through<br />the ground. Water regularly if<br />there's no rain, but remember that<br />water on the flowers can cause<br />the flowers and small pods to fall<br />off. When the soil temperature<br />reaches 60°F you can mulch to<br />conserve moisture.<br />Special handling<br />Don't handle soybean plants<br />when they're wet or covered with<br />heavy dew; handling or<br />brushing against them when<br />they're wet spreads fungus<br />spores. Cultivate thoroughly but<br />with care, so that you don't<br />disturb the plants' shallow root<br />systems.<br />Pests<br />Soybeans do not have many<br />pest problems, unless you're<br />growing them in an area where<br />soybeans are produced<br />commercially. Flea beetles may<br />appear; hand-pick or hose them<br />off the vines, or spray with<br />carbaryl. Rabbits, raccoons, and<br />woodchucks love soybeans and<br />can be strong competitors for your<br />crop. Discourage them by<br />removing places where they can<br />nest or hide or by fencing them<br />out of your garden. Detailed<br />information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Soybeans have no serious<br />disease problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />45 to 65 days, and a 10-foot row will<br />supply one to two pounds of<br />beans. The yield is not generous,<br />so except for novelty value,<br />soybeans are not the ideal crop for<br />a small home garden. Harvest<br />when the pods are about four<br />inches long or when they look<br />plump and full.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Store fresh unshelled soybeans<br />in the refrigerator up to one week.<br />Shelled soybeans can be frozen,<br />canned, or dried. They can also be<br />sprouted. Dropping the pods<br />into boiling water for a minute or<br />two makes shelling easier.<br />Dried, shelled soybeans can be<br />stored in a cool, dry place for 10<br />to 12 months. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />The Japanese cook soybeans in<br />salted water, serve them in the<br />shell, and then squeeze out the<br />seeds and eat them. Soybeans are<br />extremely versatile; they can be<br />made into oil, milk, or tofu — a<br />major foodstuff among<br />vegetarians. Soybeans are also<br />used as a high-protein meat<br />substitute or ground into flour.<br />Soybeans supply about half the<br />vegetable fats and oils used in this<br />country.<br />Common name: spinach<br />Botanical name: Spinacia<br />oleracea<br />Origin: Asia<br />Varieties<br />Spinach: Bloomdale<br />Longstanding (43 days); America<br />(52 days). New Zealand Spinach:<br />Only a few varieties of New<br />Zealand spinach are available; use<br />the variety available in your<br />area.<br />Description<br />There are two kinds of<br />spinach — the regular kind which<br />is a hardy annual, and the less<br />well-known New Zealand spinach,<br />which is a tender annual and is<br />not really spinach at all. Spinach,<br />the regular kind, is a hardy<br />annual with a rosette of dark green<br />leaves. The leaves may be<br />crinkled (savoy leaf) or flat.<br />Spinach is related to beets and<br />chard. The cartoon character<br />Popeye made spinach famous<br />with young children because he<br />attributed his great strength to<br />eating spinach — probably with<br />some justification, because<br />spinach has a very high iron<br />content. Spinach was brought<br />to America by the early colonists;<br />the Chinese were using it in the<br />sixth century, and the Spanish<br />used it by the 11th century.<br />New Zealand spinach<br />(Tetragonia expansa) comes —<br />as the name indicates — from New<br />Zealand. It's a tender annual with<br />weak, spreading stems two to<br />four feet long, sometimes longer,<br />and it's covered with dark green<br />leaves that are two to four inches<br />long. New Zealand spinach is<br />not really spinach at all, but when<br />it's cooked the two are virtually<br />indistinguishable. The leaves of<br />New Zealand spinach are<br />smaller and fuzzier than those of<br />regular spinach, and it has the<br />advantage of being heat-tolerant<br />and able to produce all summer.<br />Heat makes regular spinach bolt,<br />or go to seed, very quickly.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Spinach is very hardy and can<br />tolerate cold — in fact, it thrives in<br />cold weather. Warm weather<br />and long days, however, will make<br />it bolt, or go to seed. Ideal<br />spinach weather is 50° to 60°F.<br />Spinach grows well in the winter<br />in the South, and in early spring<br />and late summer in the North.<br />Plant it about four weeks before<br />your area's average date of last<br />frost.<br />New Zealand spinach likes<br />long warm days. It grows best at<br />60° to 75°F and won't start<br />growing until the soil warms up. It<br />has a short season, however (55<br />to 65 days), so it can be grown<br />successfully in most areas of the<br />United States. Plant it on the<br />average date of last frost for your<br />area. Plant New Zealand spinach to<br />supply you with a summer<br />harvest long after it's too hot for<br />regular spinach.<br />How to plant<br />Both spinach and New Zealand<br />spinach are grown — like beets<br />and chard — from seed clusters<br />that each produce several<br />seedlings. This means they must<br />be thinned when the seedlings<br />appear. Both types tolerate<br />partial shade and require well-<br />drained soil that's rich in<br />organic matter. Spinach does not<br />like acid soil. When you're<br />preparing the soil for planting,<br />work in a complete, well-<br />balanced fertilizer at the rate of<br />one pound per 100 square feet<br />or 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet.<br />Plant spinach seed clusters half<br />an inch deep, two to four inches<br />apart, in rows 12 to 14 inches<br />apart, and when the seedlings are<br />large enough to handle, thin<br />them to leave the strongest<br />seedling from each cluster.<br />For New Zealand spinach,<br />plant the seed clusters half an inch<br />deep, 12 inches apart, in rows 24<br />to 36 inches apart. Thin when the<br />seedlings are large enough to<br />handle, leaving the strongest<br />seedling from each cluster to<br />grow. Cut off the others with<br />scissors at soil level.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize both types before<br />planting and again at midseason, at<br />the same rate as the rest of the<br />garden. Detailed information<br />on fertilizing is given in<br />"Spadework: The Essential Soil"<br />in Parti.<br />Spinach does best when the<br />soil is kept uniformly moist. Try not<br />to splash muddy water on the<br />leaves — it will make the<br />spinach difficult to clean after<br />harvesting. Mulch to avoid getting<br />soil on the leaves. New Zealand<br />spinach especially needs a<br />regular supply of water to keep it<br />producing lots of leaves.<br />Special handling<br />Spinach does not like<br />competition from weeds. Cut<br />weeds at ground level to avoid<br />damaging the shallow roots of the<br />spinach plants.<br />Pests<br />Aphids and, occasionally,<br />leafminers may attack spinach.<br />Pinch out aphid-infested<br />foliage, and remove leaves on<br />which leafminers have laid their<br />eggs — look for the eggs on the<br />undersides of the leaves.<br />Control aphids chemically with<br />Malathion or Diazinon;<br />chemical controls are ineffective<br />on leafminers once they're<br />inside the leaf. New Zealand<br />spinach has no serious pest<br />problems and is a good crop for<br />the organic gardener. Detailed<br />information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Spinach is susceptible to rust,<br />but most varieties are rust-<br />resistant. Planting disease-<br />resistant varieties and maintaining<br />the general cleanliness and<br />health of your garden will help cut<br />down the incidence of disease.<br />If a plant does become infected,<br />remove it before it can spread<br />disease to healthy plants. New<br />Zealand spinach has no serious<br />disease problems. Detailed<br />information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />For spinach, time from planting<br />to harvest is 40 to 52 days, and a 10foot<br />row should yield about five<br />pounds of spinach leaves. To<br />harvest, either pick the outside<br />leaves periodically, or pull up the<br />whole plant at one time. Be sure<br />to wash spinach thoroughly to<br />eliminate the grit that sometimes<br />sticks to the crinkled leaves.<br />For New Zealand spinach,<br />time from planting to harvest is 55<br />to 65 days, and a 10-foot row will<br />produce about five to 10 pounds of<br />leaves. To harvest keep cutting<br />the tender tips off the ends of the<br />stems; this will encourage new<br />growth, and you can harvest<br />until the first frost.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Both types of spinach can be<br />refrigerated for up to one week.<br />They can also be frozen,<br />canned, or dried. Spinach seeds<br />can also be sprouted. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Both spinach and New Zealand<br />spinach can be used in the same<br />ways, and the following<br />suggestions apply to both. Fresh<br />spinach is wonderful in salads,<br />and its dark green leaves add color<br />and variety to lettuce. Add<br />orange segments and almonds to a<br />salad of fresh spinach, and toss<br />in a sweet-sour dressing. Or add<br />crumbled bacon, hard-cooked<br />egg, and croutons. Add cubes of<br />cheese to spinach, peppers, and<br />sliced fresh mushrooms for an<br />appealing lunch-time salad.<br />Children who hate cooked spinach<br />on principle often enjoy it raw.<br />Cooked spinach is delicious<br />creamed or in a souffle, in<br />crepes or topped with poached<br />eggs. Try it with a horseradish<br />sauce, or with melted butter and a<br />little garlic. Spinach is an<br />attractive ingredient for a quiche;<br />add flaked salmon for a more .<br />substantial meal.<br />Common names: summer<br />squash, crookneck, pattypan,<br />straightneck, scallop,<br />zucchini<br />Botanical name: Cucurbita<br />species<br />Origin: American tropics<br />Varieties<br />Crookneck: Golden Summer<br />Crookneck (53 days). Scallop or<br />pattypan: Peter Pan (60 days);<br />Scallopini hybrids (60 days); St.<br />Patrick Green Tint (60 days).<br />Straightneck: Early Prolific<br />Straightneck (50 days). Zucchini:<br />Gold Rush (60 days); Zucchini<br />hybrids (60 days). These are only<br />a few of the varieties available. Ask<br />your Cooperative Extension<br />Service for other specific<br />recommendations for your area.<br />Description<br />The cucumber family, to which<br />squashes belong, probably has the<br />greatest diversity of shapes and<br />sizes of any vegetable family<br />except the cabbages. It's the<br />genus Cucurbita and includes<br />certain gourds and pumpkins,<br />as well as squashes. Most are<br />trailing or climbing plants with<br />large yellow flowers (both male<br />and female); the mature fruits<br />have a thick skin and a definite<br />seed cavity. "Summer squash,"<br />"winter squash," and "pumpkin"<br />are not definite botanical<br />names. "Pumpkin," which any<br />child can tell you is a large<br />vegetable used for jack-o'-lanterns<br />and pies, is applied to long-<br />keeping varieties of C. moschata,<br />C. pepo, and a few varieties of<br />C. maxima. Summer squashes are<br />eaten when they are immature;<br />winter squashes are eaten when<br />mature.<br />Squashes are hard to confine.<br />A bush-type zucchini will grow<br />well in a tire planter if kept well-<br />watered and fertilized; a vining<br />squash can be trained up a<br />fence. Summer squashes are<br />weak-stemmed, tender annuals,<br />with large, cucumberlike<br />leaves and separate male and<br />female flowers that appear on the<br />same plant. Summer squash<br />usually grows as a bush, rather<br />than as a vine; the fruits have<br />thin, tender skin and are generally<br />eaten in the immature stage<br />before the skin hardens. The most<br />popular of the many kinds of<br />summer squashes are crookneck,<br />straightneck, scallop, and<br />zucchini.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Squashes are warm-season<br />crops and very sensitive to cold<br />and frost. They like night<br />temperatures of at least 60°F. Don't<br />plant the seeds until the soil has<br />warmed up in spring, about two to<br />three weeks after the average<br />date of last frost for your area.<br />Direct-seeding is best for<br />squashes, but if you're planting a<br />variety that requires a longer<br />growing season than your area can<br />provide, use transplants from a<br />reputable nursery or garden<br />center, or grow your own. To<br />grow your own transplants, start<br />four to five weeks before your<br />outdoor planting date, and use<br />individual plantable containers<br />to lessen the risk of shock when<br />the seedlings are transplanted.<br />Make sure that the plantable<br />containers are large enough for<br />the variety of squash you're<br />planting.<br />How to plant<br />Squash varieties like well-worked<br />soil with good drainage.<br />They're heavy feeders, so the<br />soil must be well fertilized. When<br />you're preparing the soil for<br />planting, work in a complete, well-<br />balanced fertilizer at the rate of<br />one pound per 100 square feet or<br />10 pounds per 1,000 square feet.<br />Two to three weeks after your<br />area's average date of last frost,<br />when the soil is warm, plant<br />squash in inverted hills. Make<br />inverted hills by removing an inch<br />of soil from an area about 12<br />inches across and using this soil to<br />form a ring around the circle.<br />Make the inverted hills three to<br />four feet apart, and plant four or<br />five seeds in each one. When the<br />seedlings are large enough to<br />handle, thin them to leave the two<br />or three strongest young plants<br />standing. Cut the thinned<br />seedlings off at soil level with<br />scissors; if you pull them out<br />you'll disturb the roots of the<br />remaining seedlings.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Part 1.<br />Keep the soil evenly moist;<br />squashes need a lot of water in hot<br />weather. The vines may wilt on<br />hot days because the plant is using<br />water faster than the roots can<br />supply; if the vines are getting a<br />regular supply of water, don't<br />worry about the wilting — the<br />plants will liven up as the day<br />gets cooler. If squash vines are<br />wilting first thing in the morning,<br />water them immediately.<br />Special handling<br />If you grow squashes indoors,<br />or in an area where there are no<br />insects to pollinate the female<br />flowers — your 51 st-floor balcony,<br />for instance — you may need to<br />pollinate the flowers yourself.<br />Take a soft-bristled brush and<br />dust the inside of a male flower<br />(the one without an immature<br />fruit on the stem), then carefully<br />dust the inside of the female<br />flowers.<br />Pests<br />Squash bugs, squash borers,<br />and cucumber beetles are the<br />major pests that squash plants<br />attract. They don't usually show up<br />until you have a good harvest, so<br />squash is still a good choice for the<br />organic gardener. Squashes are<br />prolific, so you can afford to lose a<br />few of your crop to the bugs.<br />Beetles can often be controlled by<br />hand-picking or hosing them off<br />the plants. Control them<br />chemically with carbaryl. To<br />control borers, apply carbaryl to<br />the crowns of the plants at<br />weekly intervals. Do this as soon as<br />there's any suspicion of<br />damage — once the borers get<br />inside the plants, chemical<br />controls are ineffective. If a small<br />hole in the stem tells you borers<br />are already inside, you may still be<br />able to save the plant. Slit the<br />stem, remove the borers, and<br />dispose of them. Then cover the<br />area with soil to encourage root<br />development at that point.<br />Detailed information on pest<br />control is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />Diseases<br />Squashes are susceptible to<br />bacterial wilt, mosaic virus, and<br />mildew. Planting disease-<br />resistant varieties when they're<br />available and maintaining the<br />general cleanliness and health of<br />your garden will help lessen the<br />incidence of disease. When<br />watering, try to keep water off<br />the foliage, and don't handle<br />the plants when they're wet — this<br />can cause powdery mildew and<br />spread disease. If a plant does<br />become infected, remove and<br />destroy it before it can spread<br />disease to healthy plants. Detailed<br />information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />when and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest<br />depends on the variety, as does the<br />yield you can expect. Harvest<br />summer squashes when they're<br />young — they taste delicious<br />when they're small, and if you<br />leave them on the plant too long<br />they will suppress flowering and<br />reduce your crop. Harvest<br />summer squashes like the zucchini<br />and crookneck varieties when<br />they're six to eight inches long;<br />harvest the round types when<br />they're four to eight inches in<br />diameter. Break the squashes<br />from the plant, or use a knife that<br />you clean after cutting each<br />one; if the knife is not perfectly<br />clean, it can spread disease to<br />other plants.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Summer squashes can be stored<br />in the refrigerator for up to one<br />week; don't wash them until<br />you're ready to use them. They can<br />also be frozen, canned, pickled,<br />or dried. Detailed information on<br />storing and preserving is given<br />in Parts.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Summer squashes lend<br />themselves to a good variety of<br />culinary treatments. Saute slices<br />of summer squash with onions and<br />tomatoes for a robust but<br />delicately flavored side dish. Add<br />sliced zucchini and mushrooms<br />to a thick tomato sauce for<br />spaghetti. Halve summer<br />squashes and stuff with a meat or<br />rice mixture, or bake them with<br />butter and Parmesan cheese. Pan-<br />fry slices of summer squash, or<br />simmer them with fruit juice for a<br />new flavor. Use the popular<br />zucchini raw on a relish tray and<br />among vegetables for a tempura<br />or slice it thinly in salads. Use<br />the larger fruits for making<br />zucchini bread.<br />Common names: acorn, banana,<br />buttercup, butternut, cushaw,<br />delicious, hubbard, spaghetti,<br />Turk's turban<br />Botanical name: Cucurbita<br />species<br />Origin: American tropics<br />Varieties<br />Not every type of winter squash<br />has specific recommended<br />varieties. These are some of the<br />varieties available; ask your<br />Cooperative Extension Service<br />for other specific recommendations<br />for your area.<br />Acorn: Ebony (80 days); Table<br />Ace (85 days); Table King (bushtype,<br />85 days). Butternut: Waltham<br />(95 days); Butterbush (smallfruited<br />bush, 90days); Hercules<br />(95 days). Delicious: Golden<br />Delicious (100 days). Hubbard:<br />Kinred (100 days); Blue Hubbard<br />(100 days).<br />Description<br />The cucumber family, to which<br />squashes belong, probably has the<br />greatest diversity of shapes and<br />sizes of any vegetable family,<br />except the cabbages. It's the<br />genus Cucurbita, and includes<br />certain gourds, and pumpkins,<br />as well as squashes. Most are<br />trailing or climbing plants with<br />large yellow flowers (both male<br />and female); the mature fruits<br />have a thick skin and a definite<br />seed cavity. "Summer squash,"<br />"winter squash," and "pumpkin"<br />are not definite botanical<br />names. "Pumpkin," which any<br />child can tell you is a large<br />vegetable used for jack-o'-lanterns<br />and pies, is applied to long-<br />keeping varieties of C. moschata,<br />C. pepo, and a few varieties of<br />C. maxima. Summer squashes are<br />eaten when they are immature;<br />winter squashes are eaten when<br />mature. Squashes are hard to<br />confine. A bush-type squash will<br />grow well in a tire planter if kept<br />well-watered and fertilized; a<br />vining squash can be trained up<br />a fence.<br />Gourds are a close relation of<br />squash. They're warm-season<br />vining crops that are grown<br />primarily for decorative uses; you<br />can also make cooking utensils<br />out of them, and some of them can<br />be eaten when immature. They<br />have the same growing<br />requirements as winter squash,<br />and they're harvested in fall when<br />the shells are hard and glossy.<br />The importance of the gourd was<br />recognized by Henri<br />Christophe, who fought in the<br />American Revolution under<br />Lafayette and was a leader of the<br />slave revolt in Haiti in the early<br />19th century. As Henry I, he used<br />gourds as a medium of<br />exchange, and Haitian currency is<br />still called gourde, which is also<br />Louisiana slang for a dollar.<br />Winter squashes are weak-<br />stemmed, tender annuals, with<br />large, cucumberlike leaves and<br />separate male and female flowers<br />that appear on the same plant.<br />Most winter squashes grow as<br />vines, although some modern<br />varieties have been bred to have a<br />more compact, bushy habit of<br />growth. Winter squash varieties<br />have hard skins when they're<br />harvested and eaten. Popular<br />types of winter squash include<br />hubbard, butternut, acorn,<br />delicious, banana, Turk's<br />turban, buttercup, and cushaw.<br />Spaghetti squash is technically a<br />small pumpkin and is planted and<br />cared for like pumpkins. Vining<br />types of winter squash can be<br />caged or trained to climb up a<br />fence or trellis to save space. If<br />you're growing a variety that will<br />need support, set the support in<br />place at the time of planting. If<br />you do It later, you risk damaging<br />the plants' roots.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Squashes are warm-season<br />crops and very sensitive to cold<br />and frost. They like night<br />temperatures of at least 60°F. Don't<br />plant the seeds until the soil has<br />warmed up in spring, about two to<br />three weeks after the average<br />date of last frost for your area.<br />Direct-seeding is best for<br />squashes, but if you're planting a<br />variety that requires a longer<br />growing season than your area can<br />provide, use transplants from a<br />reputable nursery or garden<br />center, or grow your own. To<br />grow your own transplants, start<br />four to five weeks before your<br />outdoor planting date, and use<br />individual plantable containers<br />to lessen the risk of shock when<br />the seedlings are transplanted.<br />Make sure that the plantable<br />containers are large enough for<br />the variety of squash you're<br />planting.<br />How to plant<br />Squash varieties like well-<br />worked soil with good drainage.<br />They're he^avy feeders, so the<br />soil must be well-fertilized. When<br />you're preparing the soil for<br />planting, work in a complete, well-<br />balanced fertilizer at the rate of<br />one pound per 100 square feet or<br />10 pounds per 1,000 square feet.<br />Two to three weeks after your<br />area's average date of last frost,<br />when the soil is warm, plant<br />squash in inverted hills. Make<br />inverted hills by removing an<br />inch of soil from an area about 12<br />inches across and using this soil<br />to form a ring around the circle.<br />Make the inverted hills three to<br />four feet apart, and plant four or<br />five seeds in each one. When<br />the seedlings are large enough to<br />handle, thin them to leave the<br />two or three strongest young<br />plants standing. Cut the thinned<br />seedlings off at soil level with<br />scissors; if you pull them out<br />you'll disturb the roots of the<br />remaining seedlings.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Part 1.<br />Keep the soil evenly moist;<br />squashes need a lot of water in hot<br />weather. The vines may wilt on<br />hot days because the plant is using<br />water faster than the roots can<br />supply; if the vines are getting a<br />regular supply of water, don't<br />worry about the wilting — the<br />plants will liven up as the day<br />gets cooler, if squash vines are<br />wilting first thing in the morning,<br />water them immediately.<br />Special handling<br />If you grow squashes indoors or<br />in an area where there are no<br />insects to pollinate the female<br />flowers — your51st-fioor balcony,<br />for instance — you may need to<br />pollinate the flowers yourself.<br />Take a soft-bristled brush and<br />dust the inside of a male flower<br />(the one without an immature<br />fruit on the stem), then carefully<br />dust the inside of the female<br />flowers.<br />Pests<br />Squash bugs, squash borers,<br />and cucumber beetles are the<br />major pests that squash plants<br />attract. They don't usually show up<br />until you have a good harvest, so<br />squash is still a good choice for the<br />organic gardener. Squashes are<br />prolific, so you can afford to lose a<br />few of your crop to the bugs.<br />Beetles can often be controlled by<br />hand-picking or hosing them off<br />the plants. Control them<br />chemically with carbaryl. To<br />control borers, apply carbaryl to<br />the crowns of the plants at<br />weekly intervals. Do this as soon as<br />there's any suspicion of<br />damage — once the borers get<br />inside the plants, chemical<br />controls are ineffective. If a small<br />hole in the stem tells you borers<br />are already inside, you may still be<br />able to save the plant. Slit the<br />stem, remove the borers, and<br />dispose of them. Then cover the<br />area with soil to encourage root<br />development at that point.<br />Detailed information on pest<br />control is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />Diseases<br />Squashes are susceptible to<br />bacterial wilt, mosaic virus, and<br />mildew. Planting disease-<br />resistant varieties when they're<br />available and maintaining the<br />general cleanliness and health of<br />your garden will help lessen the<br />incidence of disease. When<br />watering, try to keep water off<br />foliage, and don't handle the<br />plants when they're wet — this<br />can cause powdery mildew and<br />spread disease. If a plant does<br />become infected, remove and<br />destroy it before it can spread<br />disease to healthy plants. Detailed<br />information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Leave winter squashes on the<br />vine until the skin is so hard that it<br />cannot be dented with your<br />thumbnail, but harvest before the<br />first frost. Break it off the vine,<br />or cut it off with a knife that you<br />clean after cutting each one; if<br />the knife is not perfectly clean, it<br />can spread disease to other<br />plants.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Cure squashes in a dark, humid<br />place for 10 days at 80° to 85°F; then<br />store them at 50° to 60°F in a<br />moderately dry, dark place for five<br />to six months. Winter squashes<br />can also be frozen or dried, and the<br />seeds can be sprouted. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Winter squashes lend<br />themselves to a good variety of<br />culinary treatments and have<br />the flexibility of adapting to both<br />sweet and savory uses. Cut<br />winter squashes into halves and<br />bake them; serve them with<br />honey or brown sugar and butter.<br />Fill the halves with browned<br />sausages, or mash the pulp and<br />season well with salt and<br />pepper. As a treat for the children,<br />top mashed squash with<br />marshmallow and brown it under<br />the grill. Use the pulp of winter<br />squash as a pie filling — it makes a<br />pleasant change from pumpkin.<br />Common names: potato, sweet<br />potato, yam<br />Botanical name: Ipomoea<br />batatas<br />Origin: tropical America and<br />Caribbean<br />Varieties<br />Centennial (150 days); Goldrush<br />(140 days); Jasper (150 days).<br />Description<br />The sweet potato is a tender<br />vining or semi-erect perennial<br />plant related to the morning<br />glory. It has small white, pink, or<br />red-purple flowers and swollen,<br />fleshy tubers that range in color<br />from creamy-yellow to deep<br />red-orange. There are "dry" and<br />"moist" kinds of sweet<br />potatoes, which describes the<br />texture when they're eaten;<br />some dry varieties have a higher<br />moisture content than some<br />moist ones. The moist varieties are<br />often called yams, but the yam is<br />actually a different species that is<br />found in tropical countries.<br />Sweet potato vines are<br />ornamental, so this vegetable is<br />often grown as ground cover or in<br />planters or hanging baskets.<br />You can even grow a plant in water<br />in your kitchen — suspend the<br />sweet potato on toothpicks in a jar<br />of water, and watch it grow.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Sweet potatoes are extremely<br />sensitive to frost and need warm,<br />moist growing weather. They<br />have a long growing season —<br />about 150 days — and in areas<br />with a shorter growing season,<br />tend to produce small potatoes.<br />Don't try to hurry sweet potatoes;<br />plant them four weeks after the<br />average date of last frost for<br />your area, or when the soil is<br />thoroughly warm.<br />How to plant<br />Sweet potatoes are planted<br />from rooted sprouts, or slips,<br />taken from a mature tuber. To<br />grow your own slips, place several<br />sweet potato roots about an<br />inch apart in a hotbed and cover<br />with two inches of sand or light<br />soil. Add another inch of soil when<br />the shoots appear, keep the bed<br />at a temperature between 70° and<br />80°F, and don't let it dry out. In<br />about six weeks you will have<br />rooted slips that can be planted<br />in the garden. Refer to "Planning<br />Your Garden" for information<br />on making and using a hotbed. If<br />you don't want to go to the<br />trouble of growing your own, buy<br />slips from a reputable garden<br />center or supplier.<br />A good, sandy soil is best for<br />sweet potatoes. Over-rich soil<br />produces luxuriant vines but<br />small tubers. The soil should be<br />moderately fertile, rich in<br />organic matter, and well-worked<br />to ensure looseness. Remove all<br />soil lumps, rocks, or other<br />obstacles that might cause<br />deformity of the tubers, and work<br />in a complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet or 10 pounds<br />per 1,000 square feet. For good<br />tuber production sweet potatoes<br />must have full sun; in partial<br />shade the vine will be handsome<br />but not very productive. Set the<br />slips on ridges made by mounding<br />up the soil about eight inches<br />high along rows three feet apart.<br />Make the ridges about 12 inches<br />wide, and set the slips at 12-inch<br />intervals.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Part 1.<br />If the soil is too wet, the roots<br />of sweet potatoes may rot; in well-<br />worked, loose soil this should<br />not be a problem. Although sweet<br />potatoes will survive dry<br />seasons, the yield is much higher if<br />they get an inch of water every<br />week until three or four weeks<br />before harvesting. Do not water<br />during the last three or four weeks.<br />Pests<br />Insects and diseases are not<br />much of a problem in the North. In<br />the South, sweet potato weevils<br />and wireworms are common<br />pests. The damage they do<br />appears in the form of stunting or<br />weakening of the plants. Both<br />pests can be controlled by a soil<br />drench of Diazinon. Detailed<br />information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Fungus diseases and root rot<br />may attack sweet potatoes.<br />Planting disease-resistant<br />varieties and maintaining the<br />general cleanliness and health<br />of your garden will help cut down<br />the incidence of disease. If a<br />plant does become infected,<br />remove it before it can spread<br />disease to healthy plants.<br />Detailed information on disease<br />prevention is given in<br />"Keeping Your Garden Healthy"<br />in Parti.<br />When and how to harvest<br />The tubers are damaged by<br />freezing or cold soils, so dig up<br />sweet potatoes early rather than<br />late, before the first frost. Be<br />careful when you dig — these<br />potatoes are thin-skinned and<br />bruise easily.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Cure sweet potatoes in crates in<br />a dark, humid place for 10 days at<br />80° to 85°F; then store them at<br />55° to 60°F in a moderately moist<br />place for four to six months. You<br />can also freeze, can, or dry them.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Sweet potatoes are very<br />versatile; you can boil, steam, fry,<br />or bake them, and they take well<br />to either sweet or savory<br />seasoning. Use pureed sweet<br />potatoes in bread or cookies.<br />Candy them, or stuff them and<br />bake them in their skins, include<br />slices of raw sweet potato with<br />the vegetables for a tempura.<br />Cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and<br />allspice all go well with sweet<br />potatoes.<br />Common names: tomato, love<br />apple<br />Botanical name: Lycopersicon<br />esculentum<br />Origin: tropical America<br />Varieties<br />The varieties of tomatoes<br />available would fill a book. Choose<br />them according to your growing<br />season, whether you plan to stake<br />or cage them or let them sprawl,<br />and what you want to do with the<br />fruit. Some varieties are specially<br />suited to canning and<br />preserving, others are better for<br />salads. Beefsteak varieties are<br />the large kind with rather<br />irregularly shaped fruits. Patio<br />varieties are suited to growing in<br />containers or small spaces, and<br />cherry tomatoes are the very small,<br />round ones. Ask your<br />Cooperative Extension Service for<br />specific recommendations for<br />your area.<br />The following are just a few of<br />the varieties available and are well-<br />adapted for use in most areas.<br />The initials V, F, and N refer to<br />disease resistance; some<br />varieties are resistant to<br />verticillium (V), fusarium (F),<br />and/or nematodes (N). If you've<br />never had any problem with any<br />of these, you can try any variety. If<br />you have had difficulty growing<br />tomatoes in the past you'll do<br />better to stay with resistant<br />varieties.<br />Varieties for general use: Better<br />Boy (VFN, 72 days); Burpee's Big<br />Boy (78 days); Early Girl (V, 62<br />days); Fantastic (70 days); Heinz<br />1350 (VF, 75 days); Terrific (VFN,<br />70 days); Wonder Boy (VFN, 80<br />days). Beefsteak varieties:<br />Beef master (VFN, 80 days); Pink<br />Ponderosa (90 days). Patio<br />varieties: Pixie (52 days); Toy Boy<br />(68 days); Tiny Tim (55 days).<br />Cherry varieties: Small Fry (VFN, 60<br />days); Tumblin' Tom (72 days).<br />Canning tomatoes: Roma VF (VF, 75<br />days); Chico III (F, 75 days);<br />Royal Chico (75 days).<br />Description<br />Tomatoes are tender<br />perennials grown as annuals.<br />They have weak stems and<br />alternate lobed and toothed leaves<br />that have a distinctive odor. The<br />yellow flowers grow in clusters.<br />Most tomatoes have vining<br />growth habits and need a fair<br />amount of space. Some are<br />advertised as bush varieties that<br />save space, but they'll still sprawl<br />if you let them, and you may still<br />have to stake or cage them.<br />Depending on the variety, the<br />fruit varies in size and in<br />color— red, yellow, orange,<br />and white.<br />Tomatoes can be divided into<br />two main groups, according to<br />growth habits: determinate and<br />indeterminate. On the<br />determinate tomato (bush<br />tomato), the plant stops growing<br />when the end buds set fruit —<br />usually about three feet tall. It<br />seldom needs staking. On the<br />indeterminate tomato (vine<br />tomato), the end buds do not set<br />fruit; the plant can grow almost<br />indefinitely if not stopped by frost.<br />Most of the varieties that are<br />staked or caged are indeterminate<br />tomatoes.<br />Tomatoes are also classified<br />by the size and shape of their fruit<br />(currant, cherry, plum, pear,<br />etc.), by their color (red, pink,<br />orange, yellow, and cream), and<br />by their use (eating, canning,<br />pickling). When you're short on<br />garden space, grow tomatoes in a<br />large pot or container. Dwarf<br />tomatoes can be grown in one<br />cubic foot of soil, and standard<br />tomatoes can be grown in two to<br />three cubic feet of soil. The<br />small-fruited tomatoes do very<br />well in hanging baskets or<br />window boxes. Plants growing in<br />containers may easily exhaust<br />the available moisture, in which<br />case the leaves will wilt.<br />However, the plants will revive<br />when they're watered.<br />Vining tomatoes can be<br />staked or caged to support the<br />fruit, or can be left to sprawl<br />naturally on the ground. Naturally<br />sprawling tomatoes require less<br />work than staked or caged plants;<br />they are less likely to develop<br />blossom end rot, and they produce<br />more fruit per plant. In dry<br />areas, sprawling on the ground<br />protects the fruit from sunburn.<br />But sprawling tomatoes are harder<br />to cultivate than staked or caged<br />plants, and they need mulching<br />under the fruit to keep them<br />clean to reduce disease. Staked<br />tomatoes give you cleaner fruit,<br />less loss from rot, and less loss<br />_ from problems that occur in<br />warm humid areas. They require<br />less room for each individual<br />plant. On the negative side, they<br />produce less fruit per plant, are<br />much more susceptible to<br />blossom end rot, and are more<br />work. Caged tomatoes require less<br />work than staked tomatoes, but<br />slightly more effort than doing<br />nothing. Caged tomatoes<br />conserve space, keep the fruit<br />cleaner, and are easier to work<br />around in small areas.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Tomatoes grow best when the<br />day temperature is between 65°<br />and 85°F. They stop growing if it<br />goes over 95°F, and if the night<br />temperature goes above 85°F<br />the fruit will not turn red. The<br />flowers will not set fruit if the<br />temperature goes below 55°F at<br />night. Start tomatoes either<br />from seed planted in the garden on<br />the average date of last frost for<br />your area or from transplants set in<br />the garden two to three weeks<br />after the average date of last frost,<br />when the soil has warmed up.<br />How to plant<br />Tomatoes must have full sun<br />and need warm, well-drained,<br />fertile soil. Although they will<br />produce earlier in sandy soils, they<br />will have a larger yield in clay<br />soils. When you're preparing the<br />soil for planting, work in a<br />complete, well-balanced fertilizer<br />at the rate of one pound per 100<br />square feet or 10 pounds per 1,000<br />square feet. Plant seeds half an<br />inch deep in rows 24 to 48 inches<br />apart (depending on how large<br />the variety will grow). When the<br />seedlings are large enough to<br />handle, thin them to 18 to 36 inches<br />apart.<br />Set the plants out on a cloudy<br />day or in the late afternoon. If the<br />sun is very hot, protect the<br />plants with hats made of<br />newspapers. Disturb the roots<br />as little as possible when<br />transplanting. Plants should be<br />gently slipped out of clay and<br />plastic pots. If they're planted in<br />peat pots, plant the entire<br />container. Make sure the tops of<br />the containers are below the soil's<br />surface or the peat will act like a<br />wick and evaporate the soil<br />moisture. If the plants are<br />growing together in a flat, cut the<br />plants apart several days before<br />transplanting them.<br />Put the plant in the soil so that<br />it's deeper than it was growing<br />before, up to the first leaves. If<br />the stem is very long or spindly, lay<br />it on a slant so that only the<br />leaves are above soil level. The<br />roots will grow from the<br />submerged stem, making a<br />sturdier plant. Set the<br />transplants 18 to 36 inches apart in<br />rows 24 to 48 inches apart,<br />depending on the variety.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Tomatoes need lots of water,<br />but they don't like to swim. Water<br />thoroughly before the soil dries<br />out. During the hot days of<br />summer the leaves sometimes<br />wilt because they use more water<br />than their roots can supply.<br />Don't worry about this if the<br />tomatoes are receiving a regular<br />supply of water. If the plants are<br />wilting first thing in the morning,<br />however, water them at once.<br />Sometimes tomato plants curl<br />their leaves as a survival tactic on<br />hot days or during a long period of<br />no rain. This is nothing to worry<br />about; just water them.<br />Special handling<br />To stake tomatoes, use six-foot<br />stakes (one by two inches) or<br />reinforcing rods, and set the<br />supports at the time of<br />transplanting. Staked tomatoes<br />should be pruned so that they<br />grow one straight stem. Prune<br />by removing any suckers that<br />appear below the first fruiting<br />cluster — the accompanying<br />illustration shows how to prune<br />a staked tomato plant. The suckers<br />are not productive, so you don't<br />affect the yield by pruning, and<br />pruned plants have more<br />energy to develop fruit. Let the<br />suckers develop two leaves<br />above the first fruiting cluster and<br />then pinch out the rest of the<br />sucker; the extra leaves will<br />provide shade for the fruit. To<br />cage tomatoes, use six-by-six-inch<br />mesh concrete reinforcing wire.<br />A five-foot width can be cut five<br />feet long and bent into a<br />cylinder by locking the ends.<br />Remove the bottom strand and<br />push the whole cage into the<br />ground six inches deep around<br />the tomato plant. If the area is<br />windy, drive in a supporting<br />stake. Or use commercially<br />produced cages — you can now<br />buy square cages that have the<br />advantage of folding flat for<br />storage.<br />Tomato plants will not set fruit<br />in rainy or very humid weather.<br />Sometimes a plant that has<br />plenty of water and fertilizer<br />produces a lot of foliage but no<br />tomatoes. As a last resort, try<br />giving the plant a shock by<br />pruning it back and cutting down<br />on water; it may start producing.<br />Pests<br />Aphids, tomato hornworms,<br />cutworms, tomato fruitworms,<br />and whiteflies are the major<br />problems. Tomatoes are almost<br />always attacked by some insect<br />and may not be the best choice for<br />the organic gardener; however,<br />the fresh taste of a ripe tomato may<br />overpower the logical choice.<br />Collars placed around the plants at<br />the time of transplanting help to<br />discourage cutworms, and<br />hornworms can be hand-picked<br />off the plants. Aphids and<br />whiteflies can be discouraged by<br />hosing them off the plants or<br />pinching out infested foliage.<br />Malathion or Diazinon chemically<br />control aphids and whiteflies.<br />Detailed information on pest<br />control is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in<br />Part 1.<br />Diseases<br />Verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt,<br />early blight, septoria leafspot,<br />tobacco mosaic virus, and<br />blossom end rot are diseases that<br />can attack tomatoes. Planting<br />disease-resistant varieties and<br />maintaining the general<br />cleanliness and health of your<br />garden will help cut down the<br />incidence of disease. Keep<br />moisture off the leaves as far as<br />possible, and avoid handling the<br />plants when they're wet. If you<br />smoke, wash your hands<br />thoroughly before working with<br />tomato plants to avoid spreading<br />tobacco mosaic virus. If a plant<br />does become infected with any<br />disease, remove it before it can<br />spread disease to healthy plants.<br />Detailed information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />40 to 180 days from transplants,<br />depending on variety, and<br />several weeks longer from seed.<br />Transplants usually produce<br />earlier than tomatoes grown from<br />seed. A 10-foot row will give you<br />anywhere from 10 to 45 pounds of<br />tomatoes. The color when ripe<br />depends on the variety; ripe<br />tomatoes should feel firm —<br />neither squashy nor too hard.<br />When the temperature is high<br />during the day, the fruit may get<br />soft but not red. Take hard green<br />tomatoes inside at the end of<br />the season to ripen; don't leave<br />them on the plants.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Ripened tomatoes will keep up<br />to one week in the refrigerator.<br />You can also freeze, can, or dry<br />them whole, sliced, as juice, paste,<br />relish, or pickles. Green<br />tomatoes harvested before a frost<br />can be held in a cool, moist<br />place up to one month to ripen.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Fresh tomatoes from your<br />garden are wonderful with very<br />little embellishment — slice<br />them, and dress them with a touch<br />of olive oil and lemon juice and a<br />pinch of basil; or eat them as fruit.<br />with a little sugar. Alternate<br />slices of fresh tomato and cooked<br />potato for an interesting side<br />dish — add olive oil and parsley.<br />Add tomatoes to almost any<br />salad, or serve them alone, sliced<br />with bread and cheese for an<br />instant lunch. Stuff raw tomatoes<br />with tuna, chicken, or rice, or<br />broil them plain or topped with<br />breadcrumbs. Serve broiled<br />tomatoes with bacon and sausages<br />for a hearty breakfast. Use<br />cherry tomatoes, whole or halved,<br />in salads or on relish trays; the<br />green kind are delicious fried or<br />pickled. Cooked tomatoes,<br />whole, pureed, or as a paste, are<br />indispensable to all sorts of<br />dishes — spaghetti sauces, stews,<br />and casseroles — and fresh<br />tomato sauce, seasoned with a<br />little basil, is a delightfully<br />simple topping for pasta. Make an<br />unusual pie by alternating layers<br />of sliced tomatoes with chopped<br />chives and topping with pastry.<br />Oregano, sage, tarragon, and<br />thyme all go beautifully with<br />tomatoes.<br />Common name: turnip<br />Botanical name: Brassica rapa<br />Origin: northeastern Europe,<br />Siberia<br />Varieties<br />Shogin (30 days); Foliage Turnip<br />(30 days); Tokyo Cross (35 days);<br />Tokyo Market (35 days); Just<br />Right (40 days); Purple Top White<br />Globe (57 days).<br />Description<br />The turnip, a hardy biennial<br />grown as an annual, sports a<br />rosette of hairy, bright green<br />leaves growing from a root—^which<br />is not really a root, but a swelling<br />at the base of the stem. The turnip<br />is more commonly grown for<br />use as a root vegetable, but can<br />also be grown for the leaves,<br />which are used as greens. Turnips<br />originated in the Mediterranean<br />in prehistoric times. The rutabaga,<br />a younger cousin, is believed to<br />have come about in the Middle<br />Ages from a cross between a<br />turnip and a cabbage. Englishmen<br />have been known to refer to<br />each other as "turniphead"; this is<br />not a compliment, as turnips are<br />often considered to be rather dull.<br />In fact, they're quite versatile.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Turnips are a cool-weather<br />crop, grown in the fall, winter, and<br />spring in the South and in the<br />spring and fall in the North. They<br />don't transplant well, so grow<br />them from seed, and plant them<br />two to three weeks before the<br />average date of last frost for your<br />area.<br />How to plant<br />Turnips tolerate partial shade<br />and need soil that's high in organic<br />matter and well-drained but<br />able to hold moisture. Too much<br />nitrogen in the soil encourages ^<br />the plant to produce leaves and a<br />seed stalk rather than a good-<br />sized root, so when you're<br />preparing the soil for planting,<br />work in a low-nitrogen (5-10-10)<br />fertilizer at the rate of one<br />pound per 100 square feet or 10<br />pounds per 1,000 square feet.<br />Plant seeds half an inch deep in<br />How to plant<br />Watermelons must have full<br />sun, and prefer well-drained soil<br />that holds moisture well. When<br />you're preparing the soil for<br />planting, work in a complete,<br />well-balanced fertilizer at the rate<br />of one pound per 100 square<br />feet or 10 pounds per 1,000 square<br />feet. Crow watermelons in<br />inverted hills, made by removing<br />an inch of soil from a circle 12<br />inches across and using the soil to<br />form a rim around the circle.<br />Space the hills six feet apart, and<br />plant four to five seeds in each<br />hill. When the seedlings have<br />developed three or four true<br />leaves, thin them to leave the<br />strongest one or two seedlings<br />in each hill. Cut the thinned<br />seedlings with scissors at soil<br />level to avoid damaging the<br />survivors' root systems. Where<br />cucumber beetles, other insects.<br />or weather are a problem, wait a<br />bit before making the final<br />selection. If you're using<br />transplants, put two or three In<br />each hill.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Watermelons are 95 percent<br />water, so make sure they have<br />enough to keep them growing<br />well. Do not let the soil dry out,<br />and use a mulch to keep the soil<br />moisture even.<br />Special handling<br />As the watermelons develop,<br />provide a support for the fruit. If<br />they're growing on a fence or<br />trellis, support the fruit with a net.<br />If the vines are trailing on the<br />ground, put a board under the fruit<br />to keep it off the ground. Mulch<br />helps keep the fruit clean as well as<br />regulating soil moisture.<br />Pests<br />Cucumber beetles may visit<br />your watermelon vines. They don't<br />cause much feeding damage,<br />but they carry cucumber bacterial<br />wilt; hand-pick them off the<br />vines as soon as they appear.<br />Watermelons are a good crop<br />for the organic gardener who has<br />lots of space. Detailed<br />information on pest control are<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Diseases<br />Watermelons are susceptible to<br />anthracnose and wilt. Planting<br />disease-resistant varieties when<br />they're available and maintaining<br />the general cleanliness and health<br />of your garden will help cut down<br />the incidence of disease. Don't<br />handle the vines when they're wet.<br />If a plant does become infected,<br />remove it before it can spread<br />disease to healthy plants.<br />Detailed information on disease<br />prevention is given in "Keeping<br />Your Garden Healthy" in Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />If one watermelon gets an early<br />start on a vine it can suppress all<br />further activity until it matures.<br />Some people suggest pinching<br />out this first watermelon to<br />encourage more melons, but this<br />is a gamble because, sometimes<br />no more watermelons will set.<br />It's easier to judge when a<br />watermelon is ripe than it is with<br />some other types of melon; a<br />watermelon is ready to harvest<br />when the vine's tendrils begin<br />to turn brown and die off. A ripe<br />watermelon will also sound dull<br />and hollow when you rap it with<br />your knuckles.<br />Storing and preserving<br />A watermelon will store for up to<br />one week in the refrigerator — it<br />takes about 12 hours to chill a<br />large one thoroughly before you<br />eat it. If you have a lot of melons,<br />store them in a cool, moderately<br />moist place for two to three<br />weeks. You can freeze the flesh of<br />the watermelon and make<br />pickles with the rind.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Slices of fresh watermelon make<br />a wonderful summer cooler.<br />Scoop out the flesh with a melon<br />bailer and add to other types of<br />melon for a cool fruit salad —<br />pile the fruit into a muskmelon<br />half. For a great party dish, serve a<br />big fruit salad in the scooped out<br />half-shell of the watermelon—or<br />carve the shell into a basket.<br />Make pickles with the rind.<br />Common name: anise<br />Botanical name: Pimpinella<br />anisum<br />Origin: Europe<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available; grow<br />the variety available in your area.<br />Description<br />Anise is a slow-growing annual<br />with low, spreading, bushy plants<br />that grow 12 to 14 inches tall and<br />almost as wide. The flowers are<br />yellowish-white in umbrella-<br />shaped clusters and appear about<br />10 weeks after planting. The<br />licorice-flavored seeds are most<br />commonly used in baking,<br />candy, or to flavor liquors. Anise<br />used to be credited with warding<br />off the evil eye; the Romans<br />flavored their cakes with it on<br />special occasions. Anise was one<br />of the first European herbs to<br />become popular in America.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Anise needs a long growing<br />season — at least 120 days free of<br />frost. It also prefers a moderate<br />and uniform rainfall, especially at<br />harvesttime.<br />How to plant<br />Anise prefers a well-drained<br />fertile soil. Work a complete, well-<br />balanced fertilizer into the soil<br />before planting at the rate of one<br />pound per 100 square feet. Give<br />anise a location in full sun, and<br />plant it from seed in early<br />spring, two weeks after the<br />average date of last frost. Plant<br />the seeds a quarter inch deep in<br />rows 18 to 24 inches apart, and<br />when the seedlings are six weeks<br />old, thin them to six to 12 inches<br />apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Anise prefers uniform<br />moisture especially at or just<br />before harvesting. Alternate<br />rainy and dry periods when the"<br />seed is near maturity can cause it<br />to turn brown, reducing quality<br />and yield.<br />Pests<br />Anise has no serious pest<br />problems.<br />Diseases<br />Anise has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Harvest the anise seed heads<br />approximately 100 days after<br />planting, while they are still<br />green and immature. Be sure to<br />harvest before the first frost.<br />Storing and preserving<br />The dry seeds can be stored for<br />months in airtight containers.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Add anise to bouillon for fish or<br />veal stews. Sprinkle anise seeds on<br />an apple crisp. Aniseed balls are<br />an old-fashioned favorite<br />children's candy.<br />Common name: basil<br />Botanical names: Ocimum<br />basilicum, Ocimum crispum,<br />Ocimum minimum<br />Origin: India, Central America<br />Varieties<br />Citriodorum (lemon-scented);<br />Dark Opal (purple-red leaves and<br />rose-colored flowers); Minimum<br />(dwarf variety). Or grow the variety<br />available in your area.<br />Description<br />These tender annuals grow one<br />to 21/2 feet tall, with square stems<br />and opposite leaves. Basil may<br />have either green or purple-red<br />soft-textured leaves, and spikes<br />of small whitish or lavender<br />flowers. In India basil is<br />considered a holy herb. In Italy it is<br />a love gift, and in Romania it is<br />an engagement token. In Greece<br />the connotation is less romantic;<br />there basil is a symbol of death and<br />hatred. Basil has the distinction<br />of being fragrant at all stages of its<br />development.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Like most herbs, basil can be<br />grown quite easily anywhere in the<br />United States. It prefers a<br />climate that does not run to<br />extremes of temperatures, but it<br />tolerates heat better than cold. The<br />first fall frost will kill the plant.<br />It's grown from seed or<br />transplants, and you can plant<br />either in spring, a week or two<br />after your area's average date of<br />last frost. Basil makes a<br />charming houseplant — put It in a<br />sunny window.<br />How to plant<br />Basil needs a well-drained soil<br />that's high in organic matter. It<br />does well in soil that many other<br />plants wouldn't tolerate; and<br />too-fertile soil is actually a<br />disadvantage, because it<br />encourages lush foliage but a<br />low oil content, which affects the<br />aromatic quality of the herb. If<br />you grow from seed, sow the seed<br />a quarter inch deep in rows 18 to<br />24 inches apart. When the<br />seedlings are growing strongly,<br />thin them to stand four to six<br />inches apart. A sunny spot is<br />best, but basil will tolerate light<br />shade. Basil seeds itself and will<br />often produce good plants if the<br />soil is not disturbed too much in<br />the spring. Using transplants in the<br />spring will mean you can harvest<br />your basil sooner. You can also buy<br />a healthy plant from a nursery or<br />farmers' market stand and plant<br />that. If you want to grow basil<br />indoors, put it in a sunny window<br />or under lights.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Do not fertilize basil;<br />overfertilizing is a disadvantage to<br />most aromatic herbs. If the soil<br />is very acid, sweeten it with some<br />lime. Otherwise, let it be.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />If basil needs water the leaves<br />will wilt — give it enough water to<br />prevent this.<br />Special handling<br />Pinch off the terminal shoots to<br />encourage branching and slow<br />down flower production. If you<br />don't, the plants will get tall and<br />leggy-<br />Pests<br />Basil has no serious pest<br />problems.<br />Diseases<br />Basil has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Pick the basil as you need it by<br />cutting a few inches off the top.<br />This will encourage the plant to<br />become bushy instead of going to<br />flower.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Store the crushed dry leaves in<br />an airtight container. You can also<br />freeze the leaves. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Fresh basil gives a wonderful<br />flavor to sliced tomatoes dressed<br />with a little oil and lemon juice,<br />and it's good in other salads, too.<br />Fresh basil is the essential<br />ingredient in pesto, a luxuriously<br />aromatic pasta dish. You can also<br />use the leaves — fresh or dried —<br />with fish, game and meat<br />dishes, on eggs, and in stews and<br />sauces. Try herbed butter with<br />basil, or make basil vinegar.<br />Common name: borage<br />Botanical name: Borago<br />officinalis<br />Origin: Europe<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available; grow<br />the variety available in your area.<br />Description<br />Borage is a tender annual that<br />grows two to three feet tall. The<br />stems and leaves are grey-green<br />and covered with velvety hair,<br />and the light blue flowers grow<br />In drooping clusters. When<br />borage is In flower it's a striking<br />plant, especially if you set it<br />high — on a wall, for instance —<br />because the nodding flowers<br />are seen to best advantage from<br />below. The flowers are used to<br />add color to potpourri. Borage,<br />like thyme, is supposed to give<br />courage. An old English jingle<br />goes: , Borage, Bring<br />Courage.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Borage will grow almost<br />anywhere in the United States. It<br />tolerates a wide range of<br />temperatures but will not survive<br />a hard frost. Because of its<br />striking coloring and unusual<br />flowers, it makes an attractive<br />indoor plant.<br />How to plant<br />Borage prefers well-drained<br />sandy soil in full sun. When<br />you're preparing the soil, dig in<br />a complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet. Plant borage<br />from seed in early spring after<br />the average date of last frost.<br />Plant the seeds (which<br />germinate readily) a quarter inch<br />deep in rows 18 to 24 inches<br />apart, and when the plants are six<br />to eight inches tall, thin them to<br />stand 12 inches apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Do not fertilize borage again at<br />midseason. Detailed information<br />on fertilizing is given in<br />"Spadework: The Essential Soil" in<br />Part 1.<br />Let borage dry out between<br />waterings.<br />Pests<br />Borage has no serious pest<br />problems. Like most herbs, it's a<br />good choice for the organic<br />garden.<br />Diseases<br />Borage has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Harvest young leaves as needed<br />throughout the growing season,<br />and harvest the entire plant in<br />the fall before frost.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Refrigerate the stems and leaves<br />for fresh use, or freeze them.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Fresh borage leaves have a<br />cucumberlike taste and can be<br />used in salads, soups, and stews,<br />or cooked like spinach. You can<br />peel the stems and use them in<br />salads. Borage flowers are<br />sometimes candied for use as a<br />garnish in fruit drinks.<br />Common name: caraway<br />Botanical name: Carum carvi<br />Origin: Europe<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available; grow<br />the variety available in your area.<br />Description<br />Caraway is a biennial grown for<br />its leaves and seeds. It has fine<br />feathery leaves that grow in a<br />short rosette; the second year the<br />plant produces white, dill-like<br />flowers on fine, two-foot flower<br />stalks. The finely cut foliage<br />makes the caraway plant a<br />charming foil to flowers in a<br />garden border.<br />When and where to grow<br />If you only want the foliage, you<br />can grow caraway anywhere in the<br />United States. In some colder<br />areas, however, it may need winter<br />protection in order to produce<br />flowers and seeds in the second<br />year.<br />How to plant<br />Caraway prefers full sun but will<br />tolerate partial shade; it grows best<br />in a well-drained sandy soil.<br />When you're preparing the soil,<br />dig in a complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet. Caraway has<br />a taproot, which makes it difficult<br />to transplant, so grow it from<br />seed sown in early spring in the<br />South or in fall in cooler<br />northern areas. Plant the seeds a<br />quarter inch deep in rows 18 to<br />24 inches apart, and thin the plants<br />to stand 12 to 18 inches apart.<br />Caraway will reseed itself in most<br />areas, assuring you a constant<br />supply.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />The second year do not fertilize at<br />midseason. Detailed information<br />on fertilizing is given in<br />"Spadework: The Essential<br />Soil" in Parti.<br />Allow caraway plants to dry<br />out between waterings.<br />Pests<br />Caraway is a member of the<br />parsley family, so you may<br />encounter a parsley caterpillar.<br />Hand-pick it off the plant.<br />Diseases<br />Caraway has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Harvest caraway leaves as<br />needed throughout the growing<br />season for use in soups and<br />salads. Harvest the seeds in the fall<br />of the second growing season.<br />Harvest when they dry out and turn<br />brown or before the first frost.<br />Storage and preserving<br />It's best to use caraway leaves<br />fresh, but they can be stored in the<br />refrigerator for a few weeks. The<br />seeds can be stored for months in a<br />sealed jar. Detailed information<br />on storing and preserving is given<br />in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Caraway seeds have all kinds of<br />uses—in breads, cakes, and<br />cookies; in sauerkraut; or to<br />flavor cheeses. They add a nice<br />crunch, as well as a distinctive<br />flavor.<br />Common name: chervil<br />Botanical name: Anthriscus<br />cerefolium<br />Origin: Europe and Asia<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available; grow<br />the variety available in your area.<br />Description<br />Chervil is a hardy annual of the<br />parsley family, and its lacy, bright<br />green leaves resemble those of<br />parsley, although its flavor is more<br />subtle. The plant grows one to<br />two feet tall, and the tiny white<br />flowers appear in umbels—<br />umbrellalike clusters. In folk<br />medicine, chervil was soaked in<br />vinegar and the liquid<br />administered as a cure for<br />hiccups.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Chervil prefers a cool climate,<br />but will grow anywhere in the<br />United States. Plant it early in<br />spring.<br />How to plant<br />Chervil grows best in a moist<br />and partially shaded environment.<br />When you're preparing the soil,<br />dig in a complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet. In spring.<br />about the average date of last<br />frost, plant chervil seeds half an<br />Inch deep In rows 18 to 24 inches<br />apart. When the plants are six<br />weeks old, thin them to stand<br />three to four inches apart. To<br />encourage thicker foliage, cut<br />the flower stems before they<br />bloom.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Part 1.<br />For best growth, keep chervil<br />moist.<br />Pests<br />Chervil is a member of the<br />parsley family, so you may<br />encounter an occasional parsley<br />caterpillar. Hand-pick it off the<br />plant.<br />Diseases<br />Chervil has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Pick fresh leaves as you need<br />them during the growing season.<br />In the fall before a hard frost,<br />harvest all the stems and leaves<br />and dry them rapidly in a shady<br />area.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Store crushed dry leaves in a<br />tightly sealed container. You can<br />also freeze the leaves. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Add fresh chervil leaves to<br />salads; it also makes an attractive<br />alternative to parsley as a garnish.<br />Chervil is an especially appropriate<br />seasoning for fish, chicken, and<br />egg dishes.<br />Common name: chives<br />Botanical name: Allium<br />schoenoprasum<br />Origin: Europe<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available; grow<br />the variety available in your area.<br />Description<br />This hardy perennial relative of<br />the onion has tufts of thin hollow<br />leaves six to 10 inches long. In<br />the late spring, it produces striking<br />flowers — rounded soft purple<br />globes. The chive blossom<br />appears, dried or fresh, in many<br />soil dry out, the tips of the leaves —<br />the part you want to eat—will<br />become brown and unappetizing.<br />Special handling<br />Chives will take care of<br />themselves without much help<br />from you. Separate the clumps<br />from time to time. If you grow<br />chives indoors, grow several<br />pots so you can take turns clipping<br />from them when you need chives<br />for cooking and flavoring.<br />Pests<br />Chives are trouble-free. Onion<br />thrips may be a problem in a<br />commercial onion-producing<br />area, but they shouldn't bother<br />plants that have enough water.<br />Diseases<br />Chives have no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />If you start from seed, you can<br />start snipping chives after 90 days;<br />from transplanted divisions, after<br />60 days. Either way, the plants will<br />produce much better the<br />second year. To harvest, it's usual<br />to just snip the tops off the<br />leaves, but if you harvest from the<br />base you'll avoid unattractive<br />stubble.<br />Storing and preserving<br />If you're growing chives on the<br />windowsill or on the border of<br />your flowerbed, you may not<br />need to store any — you've got a<br />regular supply right there.<br />However, chives can be<br />satisfactorily frozen or dried.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Try a little chopped chives and<br />parsley in an omelette — it's quick<br />and a little different for<br />breakfast. Used raw, chives add a<br />mild onion flavor to any dish. Common name: coriander<br />They are often mixed with cottage Botanical name: Coriandrum<br />cheese, sour cream, or cream sativum<br />cheese. The blossoms can be eaten Origin: Europe, Asia Minor, and<br />too and are best when just Russia<br />coming into bloom.<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available; grow<br />the variety available in your area.<br />Description<br />Coriander is a fast-growing<br />annual that grows to about 12 to 18<br />inches in height. It has tall<br />slender stems with fine feathery<br />leaves; the flowers are pale pink<br />and grow in clusters. The seeds are<br />used for flavoring candies,<br />sauces, and soups. Coriander has a<br />strong odor that many people<br />don't like; it's one of the oldest<br />known herbs. It was grown in<br />ancient Egyptian gardens, and its<br />seeds have been found in<br />Egyptian tombs. Coriander is also<br />mentioned as a food source in<br />the Old Testament. The Spanish<br />for coriander is cilantro, and the<br />herb is sometimes known by this<br />name.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Coriander grows almost<br />anywhere that has a growing<br />season of at least 100 days. It's<br />not very hardy and will not survive<br />hard frost, so plant it in the<br />spring after all danger of frost has<br />passed.<br />How to plant<br />Coriander grows best in a<br />fertile, well-drained soil. It prefers<br />a sunny location but will survive<br />in a slightly shaded area. When<br />you're preparing the soil, dig in<br />a complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one<br />pound per 100 square feet. Plant<br />coriander from seed in the early<br />spring, two to three weeks after<br />the average date of last frost.<br />Plant the seeds a quarter inch deep<br />in rows eight to 12 inches apart,<br />and thin the plants to stand 12<br />inches apart when the seedlings<br />are growing strongly.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Do not fertilize coriander at<br />midseason. Detailed information<br />on fertilizing is given in<br />"Spadework: The Essential Soil" in<br />Part 1.<br />Coriander should be kept<br />evenly moist throughout the<br />growing season, but when the<br />seeds are nearing maturity too<br />much rain can reduce the yield.<br />Pests<br />Coriander has no serious pest<br />problems.<br />Diseases<br />Coriander has no serious<br />disease problems.<br />How to harvest<br />You can pick a few coriander<br />leaves any time after the plants are<br />about six inches tall — the fresh<br />leaves are known as cilantro.<br />Harvest the coriander seeds<br />when they turn a light brown, two<br />to three weeks after flowering.<br />The seeds are small — only an<br />eighth inch in diameter — and<br />are split in half and dried after<br />harvesting.<br />Storing and preserving<br />The dried seeds can be stored<br />for months in an airtight container.<br />You can freeze or dry the leaves.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Add a little coriander to<br />guacamole or to Chinese soups.<br />The dried seeds are good in<br />bread, cookies, potato salad, and<br />fruit dishes. Coriander is used a<br />lot in sausages.<br />Common name: dill<br />Botanical name: Anethum<br />graveolens<br />Origin: Southeast Europe<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available; grow<br />the variety available in your area.<br />Bouquet is a dwarf variety.<br />Description<br />Dill, a member of the parsley<br />family, is a biennial grown as an<br />annual and grows two to four<br />feet tall. Dill has finely cut leaves<br />and small yellow flowers<br />growing in a fiat-topped cluster; it<br />has a delicate feathery look and<br />makes a good background for<br />flowers or vegetables. Carrying<br />a bag of dry dill over the heart is<br />supposed to ward off the evil<br />eye. Dill water was once used to<br />quiet babies and get rid of gas.<br />where and when to grow<br />Dill, like most herbs, can be<br />grown pretty much anywhere, and<br />can withstand heat or cold.<br />Grow it from seed sown in the<br />spring or fall. Once established,<br />dill will seed itself and return year<br />after year.<br />How to plant<br />Poor, sandy soil is an advantage<br />when you're growing dill — the<br />herb will have stronger flavor —<br />but the soil must drain well. Dill<br />will tolerate partial shade; in light<br />shade the plants won't get as<br />bushy as in full sun, so they can be<br />closer together. Plant the seeds<br />two or three weeks before your<br />average date of last frost in rows<br />two to three feet apart; they<br />germinate quickly. When the<br />seedlings are growing well, thin<br />them to 12 inches apart. You can<br />also thin dill to form a clump or<br />mass rather than a row. Make<br />sure you know where you want the<br />plants, because dill has a<br />taproot and is not easy to<br />transplant. Dill is short-lived, so<br />make successive sowings to give<br />you a continuous crop.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilizing is unnecessary for<br />dill. Detailed information on<br />fertilizing is given in<br />"Spadework: The Essentia! Soil"<br />in Parti.<br />It doesn't need too much<br />water and seems to do better if it's<br />kept on the dry side.<br />Special handling<br />The stems are tall and fine; you<br />may need to stake them.<br />Pests<br />Dili, like most herbs, is a good<br />choice for the organic gardener.<br />It's a member of the parsley<br />family, so you may encounter a<br />parsley caterpillar; hand-pick it<br />off the plant.<br />Diseases<br />Dill has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />70 days for foliage, 90 days for<br />seeds. To harvest, snip off the<br />leaves or young flower heads for<br />use in soups or salads. For<br />pickling, cut whole stalks when the<br />plant is more mature. Gather<br />the mature seeds for planting<br />(although the dill will do its own<br />planting without your help if you<br />leave it alone) or for drying.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Dill seeds can be sprouted if<br />they are allowed to dry naturally;<br />store the dried seeds in an<br />airtight jar. Crumble the dried<br />leaves, and store them the same<br />way. Detailed information on<br />storing and preserving is given<br />in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Dill pickles, obviously. You can<br />also make a marvelous leek and<br />potato soup seasoned with dill,<br />and dill adds a new kick to rye<br />bread. Dill Is very good with fish<br />or potatoes, and you can use it for<br />garnish if you run out of (or are<br />bored with) parsley.<br />Common names: fennel,<br />Florence fennel, finnochio<br />Botanical name: Foeniculum<br />vulgaredulce<br />Origin: Mediterranean<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available; grow<br />the variety available in your area.<br />Description<br />Fennel is a stocky perennial<br />grown as an annual, and looks a bit<br />like celery with very feathery<br />leaves. Ordinary fennel (F.<br />vulgare) is also a perennial. Its<br />leaves are picked for soups,<br />sauces, and salads. The whole<br />herb has an anise flavor. The plant<br />will grow four to five feet tall,<br />and the small, golden flowers<br />appear in flat-topped clusters<br />from July to September. A variant<br />called "Copper" has charcoal-<br />gray foliage and makes an<br />interesting contrast to other<br />colors in a flower bed. In folk<br />medicine all sorts of good results<br />have been attributed to fennel; at<br />one time or another it has been<br />credited with sharpening the<br />eyesight, stopping hiccups,<br />promoting weight loss, freeing a<br />person from "loathings" and<br />acting as an aphrodisiac.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Fennel will grow anywhere, and<br />tolerates both heat and cold. Grow<br />it from seed sown two to three<br />weeks before your average date of<br />last frost.<br />How to plant<br />Like most herbs, fennel needs<br />well-drained soil that is high in<br />organic matter. Plant seeds in<br />full sun, in rows two to three feet<br />apart. When seedlings are<br />growing strongly, thin them to<br />stand 12 inches apart. Fennel is a<br />difficult herb to transplant because<br />of its taproot.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Do not fertilize fennel. Detailed<br />information on fertilizing is given<br />in "Spadework: The Essential<br />Soil" in Parti.<br />Keep fennel on the dry side; it<br />just needs enough moisture to<br />keep it going.<br />Special handling<br />The plants grow four to five feet<br />tall; you may need to stake them.<br />Pests<br />Since fennel is a member of the<br />parsley family, the parsley<br />caterpillar may appear. Remove<br />it by hand. Like most herbs, fennel<br />is a successful bet for the<br />organic gardener.<br />Diseases<br />Fennel has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />You can start harvesting a few<br />leaves as soon as the plant is<br />well-established and growing<br />steadily; use them for flavoring.<br />Harvest the bulbous stalk when<br />it is three inches or more in<br />diameter for use as a vegetable.<br />Storing and preserving<br />The leaves of fennel can be<br />frozen or dried. Crumble the dried<br />leaves, and store them in an<br />airtight container. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3. You'll<br />probably want to eat the stalks<br />fresh, but they can also be frozen.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Fennel is featured in many<br />Italian dishes. The leaves add<br />flavor to soups and casseroles,<br />and fennel is a good seasoning<br />with fish. Add the seeds to rye<br />bread or a creamed cheese spread.<br />Common name: garlic<br />Botanical name: Allium sativum<br />Origin: South Europe<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available; grow<br />the variety available in your area.<br />Description<br />Garlic is a hardy perennial plant<br />that looks a lot like an onion,<br />except that the bulb is<br />segmented into cloves. The flower<br />head looks like a tissue paper<br />dunce cap and is filled with small<br />flowers and bulblets. There is an<br />old story that when the Devil<br />walked out of the Garden of<br />Eden after the fall of Adam and Eve,<br />onions sprang up from his right<br />hoof-print and garlic from his left.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Garlic must have cool<br />temperatures during its early<br />growth period, but it's not<br />affected by heat in the later stages.<br />Plant garlic in spring in the<br />North; in the South you can get<br />good results with fall plantings.<br />How to plant<br />You grow garlic from cloves or<br />bulblets, which are planted with<br />the plump side down. Use the<br />plumpest cloves for cooking and<br />plant the others. They need full<br />sun and well-worked soil that<br />drains well and is high in organic<br />matter. Do not fertilize the soil.<br />Plant the cloves four to six<br />weeks before the average date of<br />last frost. Plant them an inch or<br />two deep, four to six inches apart,<br />in rows about a foot apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />The organic content of the soil is<br />important, but fertilizing isn't;<br />don't fertilize because it will<br />decrease the flavor of the garlic<br />bulbs. Detailed information on<br />fertilizing is given in "Spadework:<br />The Essential Soil" in Part 1.<br />Keep the garlic slightly dry,<br />especially when the bulbs are near<br />maturity; this also improves the<br />flavor. Keep the area cultivated.<br />Pests<br />Occasionally onion thrips may<br />attack garlic, but they don't<br />constitute a real problem; hose<br />them off the plants if they do<br />appear. Garlic is a good crop for<br />the organic gardener. Detailed<br />information on pest control is<br />given in "Keeping Your Garden<br />Healthy" in Parti.<br />Disease<br />Mildew may occur in a warm,<br />moist environment, but it's not<br />common enough to be a problem. Keep the garlic fairly dry.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Harvest the bulbs when the tops<br />start to dry—that's the sign that the<br />bulbs are mature.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Store the mature bulbs under<br />cool, dry conditions. Braid the tops<br />of the plants together with twine<br />and hang them to dry — very<br />Gallic; in France you can still see<br />rural vendors on bicycles with<br />strings of garlic slung over their<br />handlebars. Detailed information<br />on storing and preserving is<br />given in Parts.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Garlic is indispensable to<br />French cooking, and its use is now<br />generally accepted in this<br />country. If you still know anyone<br />who disapproves of the strong<br />flavor of garlic, try to convert<br />him—he'll thank you later.<br />Spice up your next spaghetti<br />dinner with garlic bread. Rub a<br />salad bowl with a cut clove of garlic<br />before tossing the salad. Add a<br />clove of garlic to a homemade<br />vinaigrette; let the dressing<br />stand for a while before use if you<br />like your salad good and<br />garlicky. Insert slivers of garlic into<br />small slits in a roast, or rub a cut<br />clove over a steak before grilling.<br />Common names: marjoram,<br />sweet marjoram<br />Botanical name: Marjorana<br />hortensis<br />Origin: Mediterranean<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available; grow<br />the variety available in your area.<br />Description<br />A tender branching perennial,<br />usually grown as an annual,<br />marjoram grows 10 to 15 inches<br />tall. It has greyish opposite leaves<br />and lavender or whitish flowers<br />growing up most of the stem.<br />Marjoram means "joy of the<br />mountain." Venus was reputed to<br />be the first to grow this herb. Its<br />leaves and flowering heads,<br />steeped and made into a tea,<br />have been said to relieve<br />indigestion and headaches.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Marjoram will grow in most areas<br />of the United States, but it's<br />sensitive to frost and needs<br />winter protection to survive the<br />winter in very cold areas. Plant<br />marjoram from seeds or<br />transplants on your average<br />date of last frost.<br />How to plant<br />Marjoram tolerates light shade<br />and thrives in poor soil with good<br />drainage. Don't fertilize the soil<br />before planting; over-fertile soil<br />will produce lots of leaves, but<br />they'll have little flavor. One of the<br />attractive qualities of many herbs plants won't tolerate. Marjoram is<br />is that they'll thrive in the kind of started from seed or transplants.<br />soil conditions that a lot of Other On your average date of last<br />frost, sow seeds a quarter inch<br />deep in rows 18 to 24 inches<br />apart. Thin the seedlings about six<br />inches apart when they're<br />growing sturdily, or plant<br />transplants that are two or three<br />inches tall, and set them about six<br />inches apart. If the weather<br />warms up quickly, mulch<br />transplants to protect the roots<br />from too much heat until they're<br />acclimated. If you're afraid<br />marjoram won't survive the<br />winter, dig up the plants in the<br />fall, let them winter as<br />houseplants, and plant again in<br />spring — divide the clumps before<br />replanting.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Don't fertilize marjoram.<br />Detailed information about<br />fertilizing is given in<br />"Spadework: The Essential Soil"<br />in Parti.<br />Water sparingly. The less<br />water marjoram gets, the better<br />the flavor will be.<br />Special handling<br />About all the special attention<br />marjoram requires is a protection<br />of mulch to help it weather very<br />cold winters.<br />Pests<br />Marjoram has no serious pest<br />problems. Like most herbs, it's a<br />good plant for organic gardens.<br />Diseases<br />Marjoram has no serious<br />disease problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />When the first blooms appear,<br />cut the plants back several inches;<br />you can do this several times<br />without harming the plant. Fresh<br />leaves can be harvested at any<br />time.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Dry leaves and flower tops<br />quickly. Store the crumbled, dry<br />leaves for winter use. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Marjoram is one of the<br />traditional components of a<br />bouquet garni. The leaves are<br />good with veal and liver, in meat<br />and egg dishes, and in poultry<br />stuffings. Try them in soups or<br />on roast beef sandwiches. Make<br />herb butter with them. Add<br />chopped marjoram leaves in<br />melted butter to spinach just<br />before serving.<br />Common name: mint<br />Botanical names: Mentha<br />piperita (peppermint); Mentha<br />spicata (spearmint).<br />Origin: Europe<br />Varieties<br />There are many varieties of<br />mint, of which the best known are<br />spearmint and peppermint.<br />Other varieties have different<br />flavors, like golden apple mint<br />or orange mint. Grow the variety<br />available in your area or the<br />scent and flavor you like best.<br />Description<br />A number of different varieties<br />go by the collective name of mint;<br />peppermint and spearmint are<br />probably the two most popular.<br />Both are hardy perennials, and<br />both are very prolific—once you<br />set them in a corner of the<br />garden they'll quietly take over.<br />Peppermint (Mentha piperita) is<br />a tall, shallow-rooted, fast-<br />spreading perennial with square<br />stems and leaves that usually have<br />a purple tinge. The light<br />lavender flowers appear in<br />terminal spikes and bloom<br />through most of the growing<br />season. The plant grows to<br />about three feet tall. Spearmint (M.<br />spicata) is a perennial that grows<br />two to 2y2 feet tall, with square<br />stems and leaves that are slightly<br />curled and deeply veined. The<br />flowers are light purple to white<br />and grow in spikes two to four<br />inches long that start blooming<br />in early summer and continue well<br />into fall. You may also come<br />across varieties like golden apple<br />mint, which has a more delicate<br />flavor than spearmint. This plant<br />also has pale purple flowers, but<br />the leaves are dark green streaked<br />with gold. Orange mint,<br />sometimes known as bergamot<br />mint, gets its name from its<br />delicate scent of oranges. Orange<br />mint has reddish-green leaves<br />edged with purple; the flowers are<br />lavender.<br />where and when to grow<br />Both peppermint and spearmint<br />are very hardy and can be grown<br />almost anywhere in the United<br />States. Plant them from root<br />divisions any time during the<br />growing season.<br />How to plant<br />Mint varieties from seed will not<br />grow "true." So it's generally more<br />satisfactory to use root divisions.<br />An innocuous little plant of mint<br />will wander all over the garden if<br />it gets half a chance, so plant each<br />one in a container that will keep<br />the roots in one place — a two-<br />pound coffee can with both<br />ends removed is good.<br />Peppermint and spearmint grow<br />well in any soil; they prefer sun but<br />will tolerate partial shade. For<br />spearmint, work a complete, well-<br />balanced fertilizer into the soil<br />before planting at the rate of a<br />pound per 100 square feet.<br />Don't fertilize before planting<br />peppermint—you'll get all the<br />peppermint you can use without it.<br />Although you can plant mints<br />anytime during the growing<br />season, root divisions will be<br />established faster if planted on a<br />cool, moist day in spring or fall.<br />Space plants two or three inches<br />apart in rows 18 to 24 inches apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Don't fertilize mints in<br />midseason; they'll never miss it.<br />Detailed information on<br />fertilizing is given in "Spadework:<br />The Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Both peppermint and<br />spearmint prefer moist soil, so<br />they'll require more watering<br />than the rest of the garden. Keep<br />them evenly moist until root<br />divisions are established.<br />Pests<br />Mints have no serious pest<br />problems.<br />Diseases<br />Mints are susceptible to<br />verticillium wilt and mint rust.<br />Prevent these diseases by<br />removing all the dead stems and<br />leaves from the bed before<br />winter. Detailed information on<br />disease prevention is given in<br />"Keeping Your Garden Healthy" in<br />Part 1.<br />When and how to harvest<br />The more mint you pick, the<br />better the plants will grow, and you<br />can pick sprigs throughout the<br />growing season. Harvest more<br />fully as the plants begin to<br />bloom, just as the lower leaves<br />start to yellow. Cut the entire<br />plant down two or three inches<br />above the soil. You'll get a<br />second smaller harvest the same<br />season.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Strip the mint leaves from the<br />stem and let them dry in a warm<br />shady area. The dried leaves can<br />be stored in a sealed jar. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />A sprig of fresh mint is a pretty<br />garnish for summer drinks — and<br />you can't have a mint julep<br />without it. Cook peas in a very little<br />water to which you've added a<br />couple of sprigs of mint. Toss<br />boiled new potatoes with butter<br />and chopped mint—a nice change<br />from parsley. Instead of mint<br />jelly with a lamb roast, try the<br />traditional English mint sauce.<br />Add a little sugar to a couple of<br />tablespoons of chopped fresh<br />mint leaves, add boiling water to<br />bring out the flavor, then top off<br />with vinegar to taste.<br />Common names: oregano, wild<br />marjoram<br />Botanical names: Origanum<br />vulgare. Origanum<br />heracleoticum<br />Origin: Mediterranean (O.vulgare), Cyprus (O.heracleoticum)<br />Varieties<br />In cold northern areas grow<br />any variety of O. vulgare. In<br />warmer areas grow any variety<br />of either O. vulgare or O.<br />heracleoticum.<br />Description<br />The name "oregano" is more<br />accurately applied to a flavor than<br />to a plant, and there are two<br />varieties that you can grow for<br />seasoning called oregano. O.<br />vulgare is usually grown; it's<br />hardier and easier to propagate<br />than the alternative, O.<br />heracleoticum—also known as<br />wild marjoram. The name<br />"oregano" itself has been<br />traced back to an ancient Greek<br />word translated as "delight of<br />the mountains," which suggests<br />that the plants once grew wild<br />on the hillsides of Greece.<br />Oregano (O. vulgare) is a very<br />hardy perennial that may grow2y2<br />feet tall.<br />The leaves are greyish-green,<br />slightly hairy, and oval in<br />shape, and the flowers are<br />pink, white, or purple. O.<br />heracleoticum is a tender<br />perennial that grows only a foot<br />high. The leaves are very hairy<br />and oval in shape, and the plant<br />bears small white flower clusters<br />on tall stems. Oregano's reputed<br />medicinal powers are varied. A<br />tea made from the leaves and<br />flowers was believed to relieve<br />indigestion, headaches, and<br />nervousness. Oil extracted<br />from the plant was used as a cure<br />for toothache.<br />Where and when to grow<br />O. vulgare can be grown<br />anywhere in the United States<br />from root divisions or seed<br />planted early in spring. O.<br />heracleoticum can also be<br />grown anywhere in the United<br />States from seed or root<br />divisions if planting is delayed<br />until all danger of frost is past;<br />it should be grown as an annual<br />or given winter protection in<br />colder northern areas. O.<br />heracleoticum can also be<br />grown in a container — it makes<br />an attractive houseplant.<br />How to plant<br />Don't fertilize the planting bed<br />for oregano—lack of nutrients<br />even enhances the flavor. Both<br />varieties need well-drained soil in<br />a sunny location, although O.<br />vulgare will tolerate partial shade.<br />Plant both varieties from root<br />divisions or seeds and space<br />plants about a foot apart. Plant<br />O. vulgare on your average<br />date of last frost, and O.<br />heracleoticum two to three weeks<br />later. Plant seeds a quarter inch<br />deep in rows 12 to 18 inches<br />apart, and thin to six to 12<br />inches apart. Plant divisions six to<br />12 inches apart in rows 12 to 18<br />inches apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Don't fertilize oregano at all.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Keep the oregano plants on<br />the dry side.<br />Pests<br />Oregano varieties have no<br />serious pest problems.<br />Diseases<br />These plants have no serious<br />disease problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Oregano is ready to harvest<br />when it begins to flower; cut the<br />stems down to a few inches<br />above the soil. Leaves can be<br />harvested for fresh use<br />throughout the growing season if<br />you cut off the flowers before<br />they open—this encourages fuller<br />foliage.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Hang oregano in bunches to<br />dry; when they're dry, remove<br />the leaves and store them in an<br />airtight container. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Oregano is essential to lots of<br />Italian dishes. Add it to spaghetti<br />sauce, and sprinkle it on pizza.<br />Try oregano and a touch of lemon<br />on lamb chops or steak. Sprinkle<br />oregano on cooked vegetables for<br />a lively flavor.<br />Common name: parsley<br />Botanical name: Petroselinum<br />crispum<br />Origin: Mediterranean<br />Varieties<br />Moss Curled (70 days);<br />Perfection (75 days); Hamburg or<br />Parsnip-Rooted parsley (90<br />days).<br />Description<br />Parsley is a hardy biennial that is<br />treated as an annual. It has finely<br />divided, fernlike leaves that are<br />either flat or curly. The leaves grow<br />in a rosette from a single taproot<br />that in some varieties is quite large<br />and can be eaten like parsnips.<br />Parsley has flat-topped clusters of<br />greenish-yellow flowers, similar<br />to those of dill, which belongs to<br />the same family. The Romans wore<br />parsley wreaths to keep from<br />becoming intoxicated. Parsley is<br />probably the best known of the<br />herbs used for flavoring and for<br />garnish.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Parsley will grow anywhere and<br />can survive cold. It tolerates heat,<br />but very hot weather will make<br />the plant go to seed. Plant parsley<br />two to three weeks before your How to plant<br />average date of last frost. Parsley<br />also does well as a houseplant; Parsley likes well-worked, well-<br />some gardeners bring parsley in drained soil with moderate organic<br />from the garden in fall and let it content. Don't fertilize before<br />winter in a bright window. planting. Plant it from seed;<br />they take a long time to germinate,<br />but you can speed up the<br />process by soaking them in<br />warm water overnight before<br />planting. Plant the seeds a quarter-<br />inch deep in rows 18 to 24 inches<br />apart. Thin the seedlings to 12 to 18<br />inches apart when they're<br />growing strongly. Or start seeds<br />indoors six weeks before the<br />average date of last frost.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />You don't need to fertilize the<br />soil for parsley to grow well.<br />Detailed information on<br />fertilizing is given in "Spadework:<br />The Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />It's important to keep the soil<br />moderately moist; parsley needs a<br />regular supply of water to keep<br />producing new leaves.<br />Pests<br />The parsley caterpillar is the<br />only pest you're likely to have to<br />contend with. Hand-pick it off<br />the plants.<br />Diseases<br />Parsley has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />From planting to harvest is<br />about 70 to 90 days, and a 10-foot<br />row of parsley will keep you —<br />and all your neighbors — well<br />supplied. To encourage the<br />growth of new foliage, cut off<br />the flower stalk when it appears.<br />The flower stalk shoots' up taller<br />than the leaves, and the leaves on it<br />are much smaller. Harvest<br />parsley leaves any time during the<br />growing season; cut them off at<br />the base of the plant. The plant will<br />retain its rich color until early<br />winter. Many gardeners harvest<br />the entire parsley plant in fall<br />and dry it; you can also bring the<br />whole plant inside for the<br />winter.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Parsley lends itself well to<br />freezing and drying. Store the<br />dried leaves in an airtight<br />container. Detailed information<br />on storing and preserving is<br />given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Parsley's reputation as a garnish<br />often does it a disservice—it gets<br />left on the side of the plate. In<br />fact it's been known for thousands<br />of years for its excellent flavor<br />and versatility. Add chopped<br />parsley to buttered potatoes<br />and vegetables; toss a little on a<br />sliced tomato salad along with a<br />pinch of basil. Add it to scrambled<br />eggs or an omelette aux fine<br />herbs. Parsley is a natural breath-<br />freshener.<br />Common name: rosemary<br />Botanical name: Rosemarinus<br />officinalis<br />Origin: Mediterranean<br />Varieties<br />Albus; Collingwood Ingram;<br />Tuscan Blue; Prostratus;<br />Lockwood de Forest.<br />Description<br />Rosemary is a half-hardy,<br />evergreen, perennial shrub with<br />narrow, aromatic, grey-green<br />leaves. It can grow six feet tall, anc<br />the flowers are small, light blue<br />or white. It's a perennial, but in<br />areas with very cold winters it's<br />grown as an annual. Rosemary is<br />one of the traditional strewing<br />herbs; in the language of flowers<br />its message is "remember." In<br />Shakespeare's play, Ophelia<br />gives Hamlet a sprig of rosemary<br />"for remembrance." Keep up<br />the old tradition of a herb of<br />remembrance by tying a sprig of<br />rosemary to a gift.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Rosemary can handle<br />temperatures a bit below freezing<br />and tolerates cold better in a<br />sandy, well-drained location. Less<br />than-ldeal conditions improve<br />its fragrance, but it's not really<br />hardy north of Washington,<br />D.C. Grow it in a cold-winter area if<br />you're willing to mulch it for<br />winter protection.<br />How to plant<br />Like most herbs, rosemary is<br />most fragrant and full of flavor if it's<br />grown in well-drained, sandy<br />soil that's high in organic matter<br />but not over-rich. Very fertile<br />soil will produce beautiful plants<br />but decrease the production of<br />the aromatic oils on which the<br />plant's fragrance depends.<br />Don't fertilize the soil if you're<br />planting rosemary, except if<br />you're growing it as a perennial in a<br />mild winter climate; in this case,<br />work a low-nitrogen (5-10-10)<br />fertilizer into the soil before<br />planting at the rate of about a half<br />pound to 100 square feet. To<br />grow rosemary from seed, start the<br />seeds indoors or in a cold frame<br />four to six weeks before your<br />average date of last frost. Two<br />weeks after the average date of last<br />frost, transplant them to a<br />location in full sun with a foot or<br />more between the plants and 18<br />to 24 inches between rows. You<br />can also grow rosemary from<br />stem cuttings. Pot a rosemary plant<br />from the garden in fall and bring<br />it into the house for winter use. In<br />the spring take stem cuttings<br />to propagate your new crop.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Do not fertilize at midseason.<br />Detailed information on<br />fertilizing is given in "Spadework:<br />The Essential Soil" in Part 1.<br />If the weather is dry, water<br />regularly to keep the soil moist.<br />Don't let the roots dry out.<br />Pests<br />Rosemary has no serious pest<br />problems. Like most herbs, it does<br />well In the organic garden.<br />Diseases<br />Rosemary has no serious<br />disease problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />You can take some of the leaves,<br />which look like short pine needles,<br />and use them fresh any time you<br />want them. Growth can be pruned<br />back several times during a<br />season.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Dry the leaves and store them in<br />airtight containers. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Treat rosemary with respect; it<br />can easily overpower more<br />delicate herbs. Rosemary is<br />traditionally used with lamb or<br />pork; it's also excellent<br />combined with a little lemon<br />juice and chopped parsley and<br />sprinkled on chicken before it's<br />baked.<br />Common name: sage<br />Botanical name: Salvia officinalis<br />Origin: Mediterranean<br />Varieties<br />Albiflora (white flowers); Aurea<br />(variegated leaves); Purpurea<br />(reddish-purple upper leaves).<br />Description<br />Sage is a hardy, perennial shrub<br />that grows to two feet tall and gets<br />quite woody. The leaves are<br />oval, sometimes five inches long.<br />Gray leaves are more common<br />but several varieties have<br />variegated leaf color. The<br />flowers are bluish-lavender and<br />grow on spikelike stems.<br />Traditionally, sage water is<br />supposed to improve the<br />memory and keep the hair from<br />falling out. The purple or golden<br />varieties make delightful<br />ornamental houseplants.<br />They're smaller plants than the<br />green or gray varieties^ but<br />they're prettier, and the flavor is<br />just as good. Most garden shops<br />and catalog lists offer only the gray<br />varieties. Go to a herb specialist<br />for the less common types.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Sage, like most herbs, is an<br />accommodating plant that will<br />grow anywhere. In northern<br />areas, mulch to help the plants<br />survive the winter.<br />How to plant<br />Sage can be reproduced by<br />layering, by division, or by using<br />stem cuttings. You can also start<br />it from seed. Sage thrives in poor<br />soil as long as the drainage Is<br />good, and it's not normally<br />necessary to fertilize—if the soil<br />is too rich the flavo rwill be poorer.<br />If you're planting sage as a<br />perennial, fertilize the first year<br />only with a low-nitrogen<br />fertilizer. When you're preparing<br />the soil for planting, work a<br />5-10-10 fertilizer into the soil at<br />the rate of half a pound per 100<br />square feet. Plant sage seeds or<br />divisions on your average date of<br />last frost. Plant seeds a quarter<br />inch deep in rows 18 to 24 inches<br />apart, and thin to 12 inches<br />apart. Plant divisions or cuttings 12<br />inches apart in rows 18 to 24<br />inches apart. They should be in full<br />sun; the plant will tolerate<br />partial shade, but the flavor will be<br />impaired.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Don't fertilize at midseason.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Keep sage plants on the dry<br />side.<br />Pests<br />Sage has no serious pest<br />problems. Like most herbs. It does<br />well in the organic garden.<br />Diseases<br />Sage has no serious disease<br />problems. If the area is too damp<br />or shady rot may occur. Avoid<br />this by planting sage in a dry, sunny<br />location. Detailed information<br />on disease prevention is given in<br />"Keeping Your Garden Healthy"<br />in Parti.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Sage takes 75 days from planting<br />to harvest, and a few plants will<br />supply you and a lot of other<br />people, too. At least twice during<br />the growing season, cut six to<br />eight inches from the top of the<br />plants. Pick the leaves as desired<br />as long as you don't cut back more<br />than half the plant—if you do it<br />will stop producing.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Store dried sage leaves in an<br />airtight container. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Sage and onion make a good<br />combination and are traditionally<br />used together in stuffings for<br />pork, turkey, or duck. Sage can<br />overwhelm other seasonings,<br />so handle it with care. Some<br />people steep dried sage leaves<br />to make a herb tea.<br />Common names: summer<br />savory, winter savory<br />Botanical names: Satureja<br />hortensis (summer savory);<br />Satureja montana (winter<br />savory)<br />Origin: Mediterranean,<br />Southern Europe<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available; grow<br />the variety available in your area.<br />Description<br />Both types of savory belong to the<br />mint family. Summer savory is a<br />bushy annual with needle-shaped<br />leaves and stems that are square<br />when the plant is young and<br />become woody later. The flowers<br />are light purple to pink, and the<br />plant grows to a height of about 18<br />inches. Winter savory is a bushy<br />hardy perennial that grows about a<br />foot tall. The small flowers are<br />white or purple and, like the<br />summer variety, winter savory<br />has needle-shaped leaves and<br />square stems that become<br />woody as they develop. The winter<br />variety has sharper-flavored<br />leaves than the summer kind.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Both varieties grow anywhere in<br />the United States from seeds<br />planted two to three weeks after<br />the average date of last frost.<br />How to plant<br />Summer savory can be grown in<br />almost any soil; winter savory<br />prefers soil that is sandy and<br />well-drained. Both need full sun.<br />Before planting, work a<br />complete, well-balanced fertilizer<br />into the ground at the rate of<br />one pound to 100 square feet. Plant<br />seeds of both summer and winter<br />varieties half an inch deep in rows<br />12 to 18 inches apart. When the<br />seedlings are four to six weeks old<br />thin summer savory plants to<br />stand three to four inches apart.<br />Winter savory needs more room;<br />thin the plants to 12 to 18 inches<br />apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Do not fertilize at midseason.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Both varieties do better if kept<br />on the dry side.<br />Special handling<br />Summer savory has a tendency<br />to get top-heavy; stake the plants if<br />necessary.<br />Pests<br />Savory has no serious pest<br />problems.<br />Diseases<br />Savory has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Pick fresh leaves and stems of<br />both summer and winter savory at<br />any time during the growing<br />season. In areas with a long<br />growing season you may get two<br />harvests. For drying, cut off the top<br />six to eight inches of the plant as<br />soon as it begins to flower.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Store the dried leaves in an<br />airtight container. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Savory has a peppery flavor that<br />is good with fish, poultry, and in<br />egg dishes. Try it in vinegars, or<br />add a little to a cheese souffle.<br />Common name: sesame<br />Botanical name: Sesamum<br />indicum<br />Origin: Africa<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available; grow<br />the variety available in your area.<br />Description<br />Sesame is a hardy annual that<br />has a unique drought-tolerant root<br />system composed of a long<br />taproot and a large number of<br />fibrous secondary roots. It's an<br />attractive plant, with cream or pale<br />orchid-colored flowers that grow<br />in the angles of the leaves. Sesame<br />used to be credited with magic<br />powers and was associated with<br />Hecate, queen of witches. Its<br />uses today are less dramatic; the<br />dried seeds are used to flavor<br />breads, candy, and baked goods,<br />and the oil extracted from the<br />seeds is used for cooking and in<br />salad dressings.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Sesame is easy to grow if you can<br />give it a growing season of about<br />120 days; it grows well in the<br />warm, dry areas of the South and<br />Southwest. Plant it when danger<br />of frost is over.<br />How to plant<br />Give sesame a place in the sun in<br />well-drained, fertile soil. When<br />you're preparing the soil, dig in<br />a complete, well-balanced<br />fertilizer at the rate of one pound<br />per 100 square feet. Four to six<br />weeks after the average date of<br />last frost, plant the seeds a half<br />inch deep in rows 12 to 18 inches<br />apart. Thin the plants to 12 to 18<br />inches apart when they are four<br />to five weeks old.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Fertilize before planting and<br />again at midseason, at the same<br />rate as the rest of the garden.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Allow the plants to dry out<br />between waterings.<br />Pests<br />Sesame has no serious pest<br />problems.<br />Diseases<br />Sesame has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Harvest about 90 to 120 days<br />after planting when the mature<br />seed pods are about the size of a<br />peanut. Crack the pods open<br />carefully, and remove the<br />seeds.<br />Storing and preserving<br />Store the dried sesame seeds in<br />an airtight container. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Toast sesame seeds and toss<br />them over vegetable dishes or<br />soups. They give an extra<br />crunch to pan-fried fish. Or, just<br />eat the roasted seeds as a snack.<br />Sesame is used a lot in Oriental<br />dishes and the seeds, untoasted,<br />are added to cookies, cakes, and<br />breads before baking.<br />Common name: tarragon<br />Botanical name: Artemisia<br />dracunulus<br />Origin: Caspian Sea, Siberia<br />Varieties<br />Few varieties are available.<br />Grow the variety available in your<br />area, but try to make sure that<br />it's the French, not the Russian,<br />kind.<br />Description<br />Tarragon is a half-hardy<br />perennial that grows two to four<br />feet tall; it has slender stems<br />and thin narrow leaves that taste a<br />bit like licorice, and it rarely<br />produces flowers—they're small<br />and whitish in color. True<br />French tarragon is a sterile clove<br />and cannot be grown from<br />seed; use rooted divisions or<br />stem cuttings. There is also a<br />Russian variety of tarragon, which<br />has a stronger flavor that most<br />people don't like. Many herbs are<br />decorative, but tarragon is not<br />glamorous. However, its finely<br />textured dark-green foliage<br />makes an attractive background<br />for small, bright flowers. The<br />word tarragon comes from the<br />Arabic word for dragon. The<br />French translation, estragon (little<br />dragon), might reflect either<br />the way tarragon was used<br />medicinally to fight pestilence<br />during the Middle Ages, or the<br />snakelike appearance of its<br />roots.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Tarragon can be grown<br />anywhere in the United States<br />and will survive cold winters if<br />it's given adequate protection. It's<br />hardy in well-drained, sandy<br />soils, but is less tolerant of cold in<br />compacted or wet soil.<br />How to plant<br />Seeds of the Russian variety are<br />available commercially, but are<br />likely to produce plants of<br />inferior flavor. Instead, use<br />divisions or stem cuttings of<br />French tarragon. Tarragon<br />tolerates poor, rather dry soil.<br />Fertilize the soil the first year only<br />with a low-nitrogen (5-10-10)<br />fertilizer; before planting, work<br />the fertilizer well into the soil at<br />the rate of a half pound to 100<br />square feet. Plant cuttings or<br />divisions on your area's average<br />date of last frost, and set them<br />18 to 24 inches apart in rows 24 to<br />36 inches apart. Give them a<br />place in full sun; the plant will<br />tolerate partial shade, but the<br />flavor will be impaired.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Don't fertilize at midseason.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Keep tarragon on the dry<br />side to encourage the flavor to<br />develop.<br />Special handling<br />If you live in an area where the<br />ground freezes and thaws often in<br />the winter, mulch after the first<br />freeze so that a thaw will not push<br />the plant up and out of the<br />ground. Mulching also helps the<br />tarragon survive the cold.<br />Subdivide the plants every three<br />or four years.<br />Pests<br />Tarragon has no serious pest<br />problems. It does well in the<br />organic garden.<br />Diseases<br />Tarragon has no serious<br />disease problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Time from planting to harvest is<br />about 60 days, and you don't<br />need a lot of tarragon. One<br />plant supplies the average family,<br />so if you're growing a lot you<br />will be able to supply the whole<br />neighborhood. Pick the tender<br />top leaves of tarragon as you need<br />them. Cut back the leafy top<br />growth several times during the<br />season to encourage the plant<br />to bush out.<br />storing and preserving<br />Tarragon is best fresh, but can<br />be dried or frozen. Detailed<br />information on storing and<br />preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Put a fresh stem or two of<br />tarragon into bottles of good<br />cider vinegar or wine vinegar<br />and, vo/7a, tarragon vinegar; allow<br />a couple of weeks for the flavor<br />to develop before you use it.<br />Since the flavor of tarragon is<br />so distinctive, use it with a light<br />touch. Use the leaves to<br />decorate cold dishes glazed with<br />aspic. It's tarragon that gives a<br />kick to a good sauce tartare, and,<br />of course, you can't have<br />chicken tarragon without it.<br />Common name: thyme<br />Botanical name: Thymus vulgaris<br />Origin: Mediterranean<br />Varieties<br />Argentens; Aureus; Rosens;<br />Broadleaf English; Narrowleaf<br />French.<br />Description<br />Thyme is a fragrant, small,<br />perennial evergreen shrub with<br />six- to eight-inch stems that<br />often spread out over the ground.<br />It's a member of the mint family<br />and has square stems with small<br />opposite leaves and pale<br />lavender mintlike flowers. Thyme<br />is a charming, cheerful little a border or rock garden. There a<br />plant and will last for years once it's more than 200 species and man^<br />established. It's a good plant for hybrids, but the common form i<br />the one grown for flavoring. The<br />Greeks and Romans believed that<br />thyme gave courage and<br />strength; their highest<br />compliment was to tell a man<br />that he smelled of thyme. In the<br />Middle Ages ladies embroidered<br />sprigs of thyme on the scarves they<br />gave their knights. Linnaeus,<br />the father of modern botany,<br />recommended thyme as a<br />hangover cure.<br />Where and when to grow<br />Thyme prefers a mild climate<br />but can survive temperatures<br />below freezing. It tolerates cold<br />better in well-drained soil. Plant<br />thyme from seed anywhere in<br />the United States two to three<br />weeks before your average date<br />of last frost.<br />How to plant<br />Thyme likes well-drained soil,<br />preferably low in fertility; rich soils<br />produce plants that are large but<br />less fragrant. The first year, work a<br />low-nitrogen (5-10-10) fertilizer<br />into the soil before planting at the<br />rate of about a half pound per<br />100 square feet. This is generous of<br />you, because in adverse soil<br />conditions thyme, like many<br />herbs, will have better flavor.<br />Whatever the soil's like, it's<br />important to give thyme a place<br />in the sun. Plant seeds in early<br />spring, two to three weeks<br />before your average date of last<br />frost. Plant the seeds a quarter<br />inch deep in rows 16 to 24 inches<br />apart, and when the seedlings<br />are two to three inches tall thin<br />them about a foot apart. You can<br />also plant thyme cuttings or root<br />divisions. Plant them at the<br />same time, and space them a foot<br />apart.<br />Fertilizing and watering<br />Don't fertilize at midseason.<br />Detailed information on fertilizing<br />is given in "Spadework: The<br />Essential Soil" in Parti.<br />Thyme seldom needs<br />watering; it does best on the dry<br />side.<br />Special handling<br />Some herbs, like mints, grow<br />like weeds whatever the<br />competition. Thyme can't<br />handle competition, especially<br />from grassy weeds, and needs<br />an orderly environment; cultivate<br />conscientiously.<br />Start new plants every three to<br />four years, because thyme gets<br />woody; reduce the clump<br />greatly. If you've no room in the<br />garden for extra plants, plant<br />them in a hanging basket.<br />Pests<br />Thyme has no serious pest<br />problems. Like most herbs, it's<br />ideal for the organic gardener.<br />Diseases<br />Thyme has no serious disease<br />problems.<br />When and how to harvest<br />Pick thyme as needed. For<br />drying, harvest when the plants<br />begin to bloom. Cut off the tops<br />of the branches with four to five<br />inches of flowering stems.<br />Storing and preserving<br />After drying, crumble the thyme<br />and put into tightly capped jars.<br />Detailed information on storing<br />and preserving is given in Part 3.<br />Serving suggestions<br />Thyme is usually blended with<br />other herbs and used in meat<br />dishes, poultry, stuffings<br />(parsley and thyme is a happy<br />combination), and soups. It<br />adds a nice flavor to clam chowder<br />and is often used along with a<br />bay leaf to give a delicate lift to a<br />white sauce or a cheese souffle.<br />Once you've harvested your crops, you may find<br />yourself with a big surplus. What do you do<br />with all those vegetables? Well, you can — and<br />will — enjoy them fresh; and you can also give a lot of<br />them away. You can keep them in the refrigerator<br />for a few days. You can freeze, can, or dry them for the<br />months ahead, as detailed in the following<br />chapters. But in some cases, cold storage — not<br />freezing — can be your best bet. It's a low-effort,<br />electricity-free choice that can keep you supplied with<br />fresh vegetables all winter long. Both refrigerator<br />storage and cold storage are discussed below, and the<br />accompanying chart shows you which methods of<br />storing or preserving work best for each vegetable.gandhihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15342771507991122518noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5089391135299206410.post-74785372290465362162008-02-23T00:40:00.000-08:002008-02-23T04:17:47.524-08:00WHEN TO PLANT YOUR VEGETABLES IN SPRING<span>Very hardy vegetables: Hardy vegetables: Tender vegetables: Very tender vegetables: </span><br /><span>Plant 4 to 6 weeks before the Plant2 to 3 weeks before the Plant on the average date of Plant 2 to 3 weeks after the </span><span>average date of last frost. average date of last frost. last frost. average date of last frost. </span><br /><span>Asparagus Beet Artichoke, globe Bean, lima </span><br /><span>Broccoli Cardoon Bean, broad Chayote </span><br /><span>Brussels sprouts Carrot Bean, dry Chick pea </span><br /><span>Cabbage Celeriac Bean, mung Cucumber </span><br /><span>Cauliflower Celery Bean, snap Eggplant </span><br /><span>Chinese cabbage Chard Corn Muskmelon </span><br /><span>Collards Chicory Cress Okra </span><br /><span>Horseradish Dandelion Mustard Pea, black-eyed </span><br /><span>Kale Endive Sorrel Peanut </span><br /><span>Kohlrabi Jerusalem artichoke Soybean Pepper, hot </span><br /><span>Leek Lentil Tomato Pepper, sweet </span><br /><span>Lettuce Parsnip Herbs: Pumpkin </span><br /><span>Onion Potato, Irish Basil Squash, summer </span><br /><span>Pea Radish • Caraway Squash, winter </span><br /><span>Rhubarb Salsify Chervil Sweet potato </span><br /><span>Rhutabaga Spinach, New Zealand Coriander Watermelon </span><br /><span>Shallot Turnip Dill </span><br /><span>Sorrel Herbs: Sage </span><br /><span>Spinach Anise Sesame </span><br /><span>Herbs: Borage </span><br /><span>Chives Fennel </span><br /><span>Garlic Marjoram </span><br /><span>Spearmint Oregano </span><br /><span>Peppermint Parsley </span><br /><span>Tarragon Rosemary </span><br /><span>Thyme Savory </span><br /><span>Planting your garden gives you a great sense of </span><br /><span>achievement, but this feeling is a bit </span><br /><span>deceptive—your labors are by no means over. In </span><br /><span>fact, you're actually only just starting. When you </span><br /><span>decide to grow a garden, you have to be willing to </span><br /><span>take on the daily chores that go with caring for </span><br /><span>it—watering, weeding, mulching, and protecting </span><br /><span>your crop against pests and disease. You could just sit </span><br /><span>back and let nature do the work. But if you don't do </span><br /><span>your part, the result will be lower yields or lower-</span><br /><span>quality produce. </span><br /><br /><span>WEEDING: KEEPING OUT INTRUDERS </span><br /><span>Cultivating, or weeding, is probably going to be </span><br /><span>your most demanding task as your garden's caretaker. </span><br /><span>Weeds are pushy plants, and they're both resilient </span><br /><span>and persistent. You'll probably feel at times that if your </span><br /><span>vegetables grew as well and as fast as your weeds </span><br /><span>do, gardening would be child's play. It's important to </span><br /><span>keep down the weeds in your vegetable garden; </span><br /><span>they steal light, water, and food from the vegetables, </span><br /><span>and they shelter insects and diseases. The cabbage </span><br /><span>aphid, for example, will make do with mustard weed </span><br /><span>while it's waiting to feast on your cabbage or kale. </span><br /><span>And a green lawn in its proper place soothes the soul </span><br /><span>and feeds the vanity of the gardener; but in the </span><br /><span>wrong place the grass roots can choke out young </span><br /><span>vegetable plants. </span><br /><span>Recognizing garden weeds </span><br /><span>To control the weeds in your garden successfully, </span><br /><span>you have to be able to recognize them when they are </span><br /><span>young. When weeds are small, regular cultivation </span><br /><span>will control them easily. If you let them become </span><br /><span>established, you're going to have a hard time </span><br /><span>getting rid of them. The next few pages will guide you </span><br /><span>through the world of weeds and help you to tell, so </span><br /><span>to speak, your wheat from your chaff. If the children </span><br /><span>are going to be helping you in the garden, be sure </span><br /><span>that they, too, know the difference between the </span><br /><span>vegetables and the weeds. Children—especially </span><br /><span>small ones—often have trouble figuring out why one </span><br /><span>plant is desirable and another isn't (some weeds are </span><br /><span>very attractive), and their well-intentioned help could </span><br /><span>be destructive. </span><br /><span>Here is a guide to help you recognize some of the </span><br /><span>weeds you're most likely to find in your vegetable </span><br /><span>garden: </span><br /><span>Bindweed (Convolvulus species). The bindweed </span><br /><span>is a climbing plant with small delicate morning-glorylike </span><br /><span>flowers. Given its own way, the bindweed will </span><br /><span>climb up plants and soon choke everything in reach, </span><br /><span>and it's very difficult to get rid of because every </span><br /><span>piece of broken root seems capable of propagating a </span><br /><span>new plant. </span><br /><span>Burdock (Arctium species). This plant looks like a </span><br /><span>coarse rhubarb. Many people have given it garden </span><br /><span>room only to find, late in the summer, that their </span><br /><span>only harvest will be burrs. </span><br /><span>Canada thistle (Cirsium arvense). This is a </span><br /><span>perennial that spreads on horizontal roots. The leaves </span><br /><span>are usually crinkled, edged v^ith spines or thorns. </span><br /><span>The flowers are spiny balls topped with purple tufts. </span><br /><span>Wear a good pair of gloves, and pull out the whole </span><br /><span>plant; try to remove as much of the root as possible. </span><br /><span>Chickweed (Stellaria media). The chickweed is a </span><br /><span>lacy plant that spreads out over the ground like a doily. </span><br /><span>It has tiny daisylike flowers, but despite its delicate </span><br /><span>appearance it should be destroyed when quite </span><br /><span>young, because it will spread all over the place if you </span><br /><span>let it go to seed. </span><br /><span>Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale). The dandelion </span><br /><span>is best known to nongardeners for its bright yellow </span><br /><span>flowers and its seedhead of light, feathery seeds. </span><br /><span>Gardeners know it for its long, persistent taproot. </span><br /><span>Recognize the dandelion by its rosette of jagged </span><br /><span>leaves, and remove it as soon as possible—preferably </span><br /><span>when the soil is moist. If you try to pull out the root </span><br /><span>when the soil is dry and hard you'll probably break it, </span><br /><span>leaving part of the root in the ground to grow right </span><br /><span>back into another healthy dandelion plant. The </span><br /><span>dandelion can be grown as a legitimate vegetable, </span><br /><span>but the weed in your garden won't double for its </span><br /><span>cultivated cousin. </span><br /><span>Ground ivy or creeping charlie (Colechoma </span><br /><span>hederacea). This is a vining plant with small funnel-</span><br /><span>shaped flowers that have a purplish color. It's very </span><br /><span>adventurous and crawls along the ground on stems </span><br /><span>that may extend to a length of five feet. The leaves </span><br /><span>are almost round and grow in clumps at each node </span><br /><span>along the square stem. Ground ivy may be one of </span><br /><span>the most persistent weeds you'll have to deal with in </span><br /><span>your garden, it will choose the shadiest side of your </span><br /><span>garden first, but once it becomes established it will </span><br /><span>spread anywhere. Pull up the entire plant; each </span><br /><span>node can regenerate a whole new plant. </span><br /><span>Lamb's-quarters or goosefoot (Chenopodium </span><br /><span>album). You can recognize lamb's-quarters by its </span><br /><span>color—greyish-green with occasional red speckles. </span><br /><span>It's an upright plant that can grow four feet tall. </span><br /><span>Mustard (Brassica nigra). The black mustard </span><br /><span>grown for its seeds is a good example of a useful plant </span><br /><span>that escaped from a proper garden and went wild. </span><br /><span>In some parts of California mustard plants 12 feet tall </span><br /><span>have taken over whole fields and become real </span><br /><span>pests. </span><br /><span>Pigweed (Amaranthus retroflexus). Pigweed is </span><br /><span>known as redroot, wild beet, or rough green </span><br /><span>amaranth. It is a rough plant that can grow to more </span><br /><span>than six feet in good soil. </span><br /><span>Plantain (Plantago major and Plantago </span><br /><span>lanceolata). There are two plantains, Ruggle's plantain </span><br /><span>and buckhorn (also called English plantain or white </span><br /><span>man's footsteps). Both plants grow in rosettes and are </span><br /><span>rather similar to the plantain lily (Hosta). They have </span><br /><span>thick clumps of roots that make them hard to pull out, anything that will support it. The large, shiny leaves </span><br /><span>except when the soil is very moist and soft. (two to four inches long) are grouped in threes and </span><br /><span>Poison ivy (Rhus radicans). The poison ivy plant pointed at the tip. Every part of this plant contains a </span><br /><span>may be either a small shrub or a vine that can crawl up poisonous material that can cause blisters on your </span><br /><span>skin. To avoid contact with the skin, control this </span><br /><span>weed by using a herbicide. </span><br /><span>Purslane (Portulaca oleracea). Purslane, which is </span><br /><span>also called pusley or pigweed, grows flat on the </span><br /><span>ground. It has thick leaves and thick juicy stems, </span><br /><span>and it adores rich, freshly worked soil. </span><br /><span>Ragweed. There are two types of ragweed: </span><br /><span>common ragweed (Ambrosia artemisiifolia) and giant* </span><br /><span>ragweed (Ambrosia trifida). Common ragweed is an </span><br /><span>annual that seeds itself and comes back every year. </span><br /><span>The leaves are smooth and deeply lobed. It's a </span><br /><span>much smaller plant than the giant ragweed and will </span><br /><span>grow only one to four feet tall. Pull up the entire </span><br /><span>plant before the seeds mature and assure you a return </span><br /><span>visit next year. Giant ragweed is a perennial, and as </span><br /><span>its name implies, it gets very large—it will tower to 12 </span><br /><span>to 18 feet in good soil. The leaves are large and </span><br /><span>slightly hairy, with three or occasionally five lobes. </span><br /><span>Male flowers are long spikes at the tips of the </span><br /><span>branches. As with its smaller cousin, pull up the entire </span><br /><span>plant when it is young before the seeds mature. </span><br /><span>Smartweed (Polygonum species). Smartweed is a </span><br /><span>tough-rooted plant, with smooth stems, swollen </span><br /><span>joints, and long narrow leaves. Pull up the </span><br /><span>smartweeds and toss them on the compost pile. </span><br /><span>Sour grass (Oxalis stricta). Sour grass is yellow </span><br /><span>wood sorrel, a delicate plant with shamrocklike three-</span><br /><span>part leaves and delicate yellow flowers. Its seed </span><br /><span>capsules are capable of shooting seeds yards away </span><br /><span>when they ripen. It also has an underground root </span><br /><span>system that can reproduce without any seeds at all. </span><br /><span>Violet (Viola species). It's hard to look on the </span><br /><span>innocent violet as a weed, but that's what it is. This </span><br /><span>small flowering plant has deep green heart-shaped </span><br /><span>leaves and a small, succulent root system that can be </span><br /><span>easily removed. </span><br /><span>Keeping the weeds out of your garden </span><br /><span>Once you've identified the weeds in your vegetable </span><br /><span>garden, the best way to control them is to chop them </span><br /><span>off at soil level with a sharp hoe or knife. If a weed is </span><br /><span>close to your vegetables, don't try to dig out the whole </span><br /><span>root system of the weed; in the process you may </span><br /><span>also damage the root systems of neighboring </span><br /><span>vegetables. Persistent weeds like dandelions may </span><br /><span>have to be cut down several times, but eventually the </span><br /><span>weed will die. </span><br /><span>Herbicides, or chemical weed-killers, can be </span><br /><span>used in some instances. Mulches, which are organic </span><br /><span>or inorganic materials laid over the soil around your </span><br /><span>plants, can also control weeds to some extent. There </span><br /><span>are advantages and disadvantages to both methods. </span><br /><span>Herbicides need careful handling </span><br /><span>Herbicides can be useful in helping to control </span><br /><span>weeds under certain conditions, but these </span><br /><span>conditions are not usually encountered in the </span><br /><span>small home garden. And herbicides require such </span><br /><span>careful handling that the home gardener may be </span><br /><span>well advised not to use them more than absolutely </span><br /><span>necessary. </span><br /><span>Herbicides can be either nonselective or </span><br /><span>selective. The nonselective types kill any plant with </span><br /><span>which they come in contact. Selective herbicides </span><br /><span>may kill only broad-leaved plants or only grass </span><br /><span>plants. Both types come in forms to kill </span><br /><span>preemergent germinating seeds without harming </span><br /><span>plants that are already growing above the ground, </span><br /><span>or vice versa. Those that act below the soil surface to </span><br /><span>kill preemergent seeds usually come in granule </span><br /><span>form. The granules are shaken on to the ground </span><br /><span>from the container. Contact herbicides that kill </span><br /><span>growing plants are usually bought in liquid form and </span><br /><span>diluted for use in a hand-sprayer or a sprayer that </span><br /><span>attaches to your hose. Whichever type you use, it's </span><br /><span>important to follow the manufacturer's instructions </span><br /><span>to the letter. It's also important to remember that </span><br /><span>herbicides may have residual effects that vary from </span><br /><span>product to product. The effect of some may last for </span><br /><span>weeks; the effect of others may last for years." </span><br /><span>You can, if you wish, use a nonselective </span><br /><span>herbicide in the spring to clear an area for planting. </span><br /><span>If you do, carefully check that the residual effects </span><br /><span>will be gone well before your planting date—the </span><br /><span>information on the label will tell you this. If you </span><br /><span>misjudge the timing, and the effects of the herbicide </span><br /><span>persist beyond your planting date, you'll lose your </span><br /><span>whole crop for the season. </span><br /><span>Here are some facts about herbicides you should </span><br /><span>be aware of: </span><br /><span>Herbicides do not kill all weeds. </span><br /><span>Herbicides can kill vegetables. </span><br /><span>Herbicides that are safe to use in a certain area </span><br /><span>can drift quite a distance and damage sensitive </span><br /><span>plants, such as tomatoes and peppers. </span><br /><span>No plant is entirely resistant to herbicides, so if </span><br /><span>you're using one it's important to follow the </span><br /><span>instructions exactly as they appear on the label. </span><br /><span>If you decide to use a herbicide in your garden, </span><br /><span>follow these rules: </span><br /><span>If you have a problem that cannot be solved by </span><br /><span>cultivating and you want to use a herbicide, </span><br /><span>contact your local Cooperative Extension Service </span><br /><span>for a reliable recommendation. </span><br /><span>Read all of the label, every bit of fine print, and </span><br /><span>follow the instructions to the letter. </span><br /><span>Do not use a herbicide unless it is labeled for a </span><br /><span>specific crop (read the whole label). </span><br /><span>Be sure that the herbicide will not leave a toxic </span><br /><span>residue on the parts of the plant that you want to </span><br /><span>eat. </span><br /><span>Clean spray equipment carefully after each use. </span><br /><span>Mark your herbicide equipment and keep it </span><br /><span>separate from that used for fertilizers, </span><br /><span>insecticides, or fungicides. Use herbicide </span><br /><span>equipment only for herbicides. </span><br /><span>MULCHES HAVE MANY USES IN YOUR GARDEN </span><br /><span>Mulches are either organic or inorganic material </span><br /><span>placed on the soil around the vegetable plants. </span><br /><span>Mulches can perform a number of useful functions. </span><br /><span>They protect against soil erosion by breaking the force </span><br /><span>of heavy rains; they help prevent soil compaction; </span><br /><span>they discourage the growth of weeds; they reduce </span><br /><span>certain disease problems. Organic mulches </span><br /><span>improve the soil texture. Mulches are also insulators, </span><br /><span>making it possible to keep the soil warmer during </span><br /><span>cool weather and cooler during warm weather. </span><br /><span>Mulches do not eliminate weeds. They can, </span><br /><span>however, help control them if the area has been </span><br /><span>cleared of weeds to begin with. If the mulch is thick </span><br /><span>enough, the weeds that are already growing won't be </span><br /><span>able to push through, and the darkness will </span><br /><span>frustrate the germination of others. Persistent weeds </span><br /><span>can push their way through most mulch, but if </span><br /><span>they're cut off at the soil level a few times they'll die. </span><br /><span>Sometimes mulches can improve the appearance </span><br /><span>of the vegetable garden by giving it a neater, more </span><br /><span>finished look. Some mulches give the area a </span><br /><span>professional look that only a true vegetable gardener </span><br /><span>can appreciate. </span><br /><span>Whether you use an organic or an inorganic </span><br /><span>mulch, take care not to put it down before the soil has </span><br /><span>warmed up in the spring—the mulch will prevent </span><br /><span>the soil from warming and slow down root </span><br /><span>development. In the average garden in a cool-</span><br /><span>season climate mulch should be applied about five </span><br /><span>weeks after the average date of last frost. </span><br /><span>Organic mulches improve soil quality </span><br /><span>Organic mulches are organic materials that, when </span><br /><span>laid on the soil, decompose to feed the </span><br /><span>microorganisms and improve the quality of the soil. </span><br /><span>If you see that the mulch you've put down is </span><br /><span>decomposing quickly, add nitrogen to make up for </span><br /><span>nitrogen used by the bacteria. Some mulches can </span><br /><span>carry weed seeds; others can harbor undesirable </span><br /><span>organisms or pests, but both diseases and pests can </span><br /><span>usually be controlled by keeping the mulch stirred </span><br /><span>up. When you're cultivating, lift the mulch a little to </span><br /><span>keep the air circulating. </span><br /><span>To use an organic mulch, spread a layer of the </span><br /><span>material you're using on the surface of the ground </span><br /><span>around the plants after the soil has warmed up in </span><br /><span>spring; the plants should be about four inches tall so </span><br /><span>the mulch doesn't overwhelm them. If you're using </span><br /><span>a fluffy material with large particles, like bark chips, </span><br /><span>make the layer about four inches thick. If you're </span><br /><span>using a denser material like straw or lawn clippings, a </span><br /><span>two-inch layer will be enough. Be careful not to </span><br /><span>suffocate the vegetables while you're trying to </span><br /><span>frustrate the weeds. </span><br /><span>The following are organic materials commonly </span><br /><span>used as mulches: </span><br /><span>Buckwheat hulls. These hulls last a long time and </span><br /><span>have a neutral color, but they're lightweight and can </span><br /><span>blow away; and sometimes they smell when the </span><br /><span>weather is hot and wet. </span><br /><span>Chunk bark. Redwood and fir barks are available </span><br /><span>in several sizes. Bark makes good-looking paths and </span><br /><span>gives the area a neat, finished appearance, but it's </span><br /><span>too chunky to be the ideal mulch for vegetables. It also </span><br /><span>tends to float away when watered or rained on. </span><br /><span>Compost. Partly decomposed compost makes a </span><br /><span>great mulch and soil conditioner. It looks a little </span><br /><span>rough, but other gardeners will know you're giving </span><br /><span>your garden the very best. </span><br /><span>Crushed corncobs. Crushed cobs make an </span><br /><span>excellent and usually inexpensive mulch. The cobs </span><br /><span>need additional nitrogen, unless they are partially </span><br /><span>decomposed. Sometimes corn kernels are mixed in </span><br /><span>with the crushed corncobs; this will create extra </span><br /><span>weeding later on. </span><br /><span>Lawn clippings. Do not use clippings from a lawn </span><br /><span>that has been treated with a herbicide or weed </span><br /><span>killer—these substances can kill the vegetables </span><br /><span>you're trying to grow. Let untreated clippings dry </span><br /><span>before putting them around your garden; fresh </span><br /><span>grass mats down and smells bad while it's </span><br /><span>decomposing. </span><br /><span>Leaves. Leaves are cheap and usually easy to find, </span><br /><span>but they blow around and are hard to keep in place. </span><br /><span>They will stay where you want them better if they're </span><br /><span>ground up or partially decomposed. Nitrogen should </span><br /><span>be added to a leaf mulch. Do not use walnut leaves; </span><br /><span>they contain iodine, which is a growth retardant. </span><br /><span>Manure. Vintage, partially decomposed manure </span><br /><span>makes an excellent mulch. Manure has a strong </span><br /><span>bouquet that you may not appreciate, but don't use </span><br /><span>a manure that has been treated with odor-reducing </span><br /><span>chemicals; treated manures contain substances, </span><br /><span>such as boron, which are unhealthy for plants. Never </span><br /><span>use fresh, unrotted manure, it can kill your plants. </span><br /><span>Mushroom compost (leftover, used). Where it's </span><br /><span>available, used mushroom compost is generally </span><br /><span>inexpensive. Its rich color blends in well with the </span><br /><span>colors of your garden. </span><br /><span>Peat moss. Peat moss is expensive when large </span><br /><span>areas have to be covered. It must be kept moist or it </span><br /><span>will act like a blotter and pull moisture out of the soil </span><br /><span>and away from the plants. Once it dries, peat tends to </span><br /><span>shed water rather than letting it soak in, and the fine </span><br /><span>grades of peat have a tendency to blow away. </span><br /><span>Poultry manure. This is potent stuff—poultry </span><br /><span>manure is about twice as strong as cow manure; </span><br /><span>proceed with caution. A good, weathered, four-</span><br /><span>year-old poultry litter can give you mulch, compost, </span><br /><span>and high-nitrogen fertilizer, all at the same time. </span><br /><span>Sawdust. Sawdust is often available for the asking. </span><br /><span>but it needs added nitrogen to prevent </span><br /><span>microorganisms from depleting the soil's nitrogen. </span><br /><span>Straw. Straw is very messy and hard to apply in a </span><br /><span>small area, and it's highly flammable—matches or </span><br /><span>cigarettes can result in short-order cooking. It </span><br /><span>does, however, look very professional. </span><br /><span>Wood chips or shavings. More chips and shavings </span><br /><span>are available now that they are no longer being burned </span><br /><span>as a waste product. They decompose slowly and </span><br /><span>add needed nitrogen. Beware of maple chips, which </span><br /><span>may carry verticillium wilt into your garden. </span><br /><span>Recycle rugs, papers as inorganic mulch </span><br /><span>Unlikely though it may seem to the inexperienced </span><br /><span>gardener, the following materials can be used </span><br /><span>effectively as inorganic mulches. </span><br /><span>Aluminum foil. Foil is expensive if you're dealing </span><br /><span>with more than a small area, but it does make an </span><br /><span>effective mulch. It reflects sunlight, keeps the </span><br /><span>plants clean, and scares birds away from your garden. </span><br /><span>Backless indoor-outdoor carpet. Indoor-outdoor </span><br /><span>carpeting is ideal for the small garden and makes it </span><br /><span>easy for the fastidious gardener to keep the place </span><br /><span>neat. Water goes through it easily, and the weeds are </span><br /><span>kept down. </span><br /><span>Newspapers. Spread a thick layer of newspapers </span><br /><span>around the plants. Keep them in place with rocks or </span><br /><span>soil. They will decompose slowly and can be turned </span><br /><span>under as a soil modifier. </span><br /><span>Rag rugs. An old rag rug holds water and keeps the </span><br /><span>soil moist. It won't look as neat as backless carpeting, </span><br /><span>but it will be just as effective. </span><br /><span>Plastic mulches: pros and cons </span><br /><span>Both clear and black polyethylene are used by </span><br /><span>commercial growers as inorganic mulches. Clear </span><br /><span>plastic is not recommended for small gardens </span><br /><span>because it encourages weeds; weeds just love the </span><br /><span>cozy greenhouse effect it creates. Black plastic is </span><br /><span>sometimes used in small gardens for plants that are </span><br /><span>grown in a group or hill, such as cucumbers, </span><br /><span>squash,orpumpkins. Black plastic should not be used </span><br /><span>for crops that need a cool growing season— </span><br /><span>cabbage or cauliflower, for instance—unless it's </span><br /><span>covered with a thick layer of light-reflecting material, </span><br /><span>such as sawdust. </span><br /><span>There are some advantages to growing with a </span><br /><span>black plastic mulch. Black plastic reduces the loss of </span><br /><span>soil moisture, raises the soil temperature, and </span><br /><span>speeds up crop maturity. Weeds are discouraged, </span><br /><span>because the black plastic cuts out their light supply, </span><br /><span>so you won't have to cultivate as much; that means </span><br /><span>less danger of root damage. The plastic also helps </span><br /><span>keep plants cleaner. And when you're making a new </span><br /><span>garden in an area where there was a lot of grass—if </span><br /><span>you've dug up a lawn, for instance—black plastic can </span><br /><span>keep the grass from coming back . </span><br /><span>There are some disadvantages to keep in mind as </span><br /><span>well, and one of them is that you may need to water </span><br /><span>more frequently. Because of their greater growth </span><br /><span>under plastic, the plants lose more water through </span><br /><span>transpiration, especially in well-drained, sandy </span><br /><span>soils. However, you will need to water less if you use </span><br /><span>black plastic on soil that holds water or drains </span><br /><span>poorly. If you're using a black plastic mulch, keep in </span><br /><span>mind that plants can wilt and rot if the soil moisture </span><br /><span>is kept at too high a level and there isn't enough air in </span><br /><span>the soil. </span><br /><span>You can buy black plastic from many garden </span><br /><span>centers or order it by mail from seed and garden </span><br /><span>equipment catalogs. It should be at least 11/2 mil </span><br /><span>thick and about three to four feet wide. If you have a </span><br /><span>piece of wider or thicker black plastic, use it. The </span><br /><span>wider plastic is harder to handle, and the thicker type </span><br /><span>is more expensive, but it works well. </span><br /><span>Put down black plastic mulch before the plants </span><br /><span>are set out. Try to pick a calm day; a strong wind will </span><br /><span>whip the plastic about and make laying it down hard </span><br /><span>work. Take a hoe and make a three-inch deep trench </span><br /><span>the length of the row. Lay one edge of the plastic in </span><br /><span>the trench and cover the edge with soil. Smooth the </span><br /><span>plastic over the bed and repeat the process on the </span><br /><span>other side. Be sure the plastic is anchored securely, or </span><br /><span>the wind will get under it and pull it up. </span><br /><span>When you're ready to plant, cut holes about </span><br /><span>three inches across for the plants or seeds. After </span><br /><span>planting, anchor the edges of the holes with stones </span><br /><span>or soil. Water the plants through the holes in the </span><br /><span>mulch. After a rain, check to see if there are any </span><br /><span>spots where water is standing. If there are, punch </span><br /><span>holes through the plastic so the water can run </span><br /><span>through. After the plants are harvested, the plastic </span><br /><span>can be swept off, rolled up, and stored for use the next </span><br /><span>year. </span><br /><br /><span>WATER: YOUR GARDEN MUST GET ENOUGH </span><br /><span>Some plants are composed of up to 95 percent </span><br /><span>water. Water is vital for sprouting seeds; plants need </span><br /><span>water for cell division, cell enlargement, and even </span><br /><span>for holding themselves up. If the cells don't have </span><br /><span>enough water in them, they collapse like a three-</span><br /><span>day-old balloon, and the result is a wilted plant. Water </span><br /><span>is essential, along with light and carbon dioxide, to </span><br /><span>produce the sugars that provide the plant with energy </span><br /><span>for growth. It also dissolves fertilizers and carries </span><br /><span>nutrients to the different parts of the plant. </span><br /><span>Where the water comes from </span><br /><span>Ideally, water for plants comes from rain or other </span><br /><span>precipitation and from underground sources. In </span><br /><span>reality, you'll often have to do extra watering by </span><br /><span>hand or through an irrigation system. (If you have too </span><br /><span>much rain about all you can do is pray). How often </span><br /><span>you should water depends on how often it rains, how </span><br /><span>long your soil retains moisture, and how fast water </span><br /><span>evaporates in your climate. Soil type is an important </span><br /><span>factor. Clay soils hold water very well—sometimes </span><br /><span>too well. Sandy soils are like a sieve, letting the water </span><br /><span>run right through. Both kinds of soil can be </span><br /><span>improved with the addition of organic matter. Organic </span><br /><span>matter gives clay soils lightness and air and gives </span><br /><span>sandy soils something to hold the water. </span><br /><span>Other factors may also affect how often you need </span><br /><span>to water your garden: </span><br /><span>More water evaporates when the temperature is </span><br /><span>high than when it's low. Plants can rot if they get </span><br /><span>too much water in cool weather. </span><br /><span>More water evaporates when the relative </span><br /><span>humidity is low. </span><br /><span>Plants need more water when the days are bright. </span><br /><span>Wind and air movement will increase the loss of </span><br /><span>water into the atmosphere. </span><br /><span>A smooth unmulched surface will not retain </span><br /><span>water as well as one that's well cultivated. </span><br /><span>Water needs vary with the type and maturity of </span><br /><span>the plant. Some vegetable seeds are tolerant of </span><br /><span>low soil moisture and will sprout in relatively dry </span><br /><span>soils. These include Brussels sprouts, cabbage, </span><br /><span>cauliflower, collards, corn, kale, kohlrabi, </span><br /><span>muskmelon, peppers, radishes, squash (winter </span><br /><span>and summer), turnips, and watermelon. On the </span><br /><span>other hand, beets, celery, and lettuce seeds need </span><br /><span>very moist soil. Herbs generally do better with less </span><br /><span>water. A large plant that has a lot of leaves and is </span><br /><span>actively growing uses more water than a young </span><br /><span>plant or one with small leaves. </span><br /><span>Sometimes water is not what a wilting plant </span><br /><span>needs. When plants are growing fast, the leaves </span><br /><span>sometimes get ahead of the roots' ability to provide </span><br /><span>them with water. If the day is hot and the plants </span><br /><span>wilt in the afternoon, don't worry about them; the </span><br /><span>plants will regain their balance overnight. But if </span><br /><span>the plants are drooping early in the morning, water </span><br /><span>them right away. </span><br /><span>Mulches cool the roots and cut down on the </span><br /><span>amount of water needed, increasing the time that </span><br /><span>plants can go between watering. When the soil </span><br /><span>dries out, plants slow their growth—or stop </span><br /><span>growing altogether. Swift, steady growth is </span><br /><span>important for the best-tasting fruits and </span><br /><span>vegetables. Mulches keep the soil evenly moist. </span><br /><span>There's a right and a wrong way to water </span><br /><span>So much depends on climate and the ability of </span><br /><span>different types of soil to hold moisture that it's difficult </span><br /><span>to lay down specific directions for watering your </span><br /><span>garden. Generally, however, vegetable plants need </span><br /><span>about an inch of water a week. The best time to </span><br /><span>water your garden is in the morning. If you water at </span><br /><span>night when the day is cooling off, the water is likely </span><br /><span>to stay on the foliage, increasing the danger of </span><br /><span>disease. Some people believe that you can't water </span><br /><span>in the morning because water spots on leaves will </span><br /><span>cause leaf-burn when the sun gets hot; this isn't the </span><br /><span>case. </span><br /><span>However hard it is to judge your garden's exact </span><br /><span>water needs, there are two hard-and-fast rules about </span><br /><span>watering that you should follow. First, always soak </span><br /><span>the soil thoroughly. A light sprinkling can often do </span><br /><span>more harm than no water at all; it stimulates the </span><br /><span>roots to come to the surface, and then they're killed by </span><br /><span>exposure to the sun. Second, never water from </span><br /><span>above. Overhead watering with a sprinkling can or a </span><br /><span>hose is easy and seems to do a fine job. But in fact, </span><br /><span>overhead watering wastes water, makes a mess, and </span><br /><span>sometimes bounces the water away from the plant </span><br /><span>so the roots do not get any at all. Furthermore, many </span><br /><span>diseases are encouraged by wet leaves. So direct </span><br /><span>water at the soil, but water gently so that the soil is not </span><br /><span>washed away or the roots exposed. </span><br /><span>Watering with a can. Carrying water in a can or a </span><br /><span>bucket can be exhausting and extremely unsatisfying, </span><br /><span>especially if the water slops over the top into your </span><br /><span>shoes. Watering cans are easier to carry but harder to </span><br /><span>fill than buckets. They are good to use for gently </span><br /><span>moistening the soil after planting seeds and for </span><br /><span>settling dust. If you unscrew the watering can's </span><br /><span>sprinkler head and replace it with an old sock, it will be </span><br /><span>easier to concentrate the water at the base of the </span><br /><span>plant where it's needed. The sock will break the force </span><br /><span>of the water so it won't disturb the soil around the </span><br /><span>roots. </span><br /><span>Watering with a hose. A well-placed faucet and </span><br /><span>hose can save a lot of energy. If you have a large </span><br /><span>garden, a Y-connector for the faucet makes it </span><br /><span>possible to attach two hoses at one time. Hose strategy </span><br /><span>includes having enough hose to reach all points in </span><br /><span>the garden and arranging the hose in such a way that it </span><br /><span>does not decapitate plants when you move it </span><br /><span>around. </span><br /><span>If you have a lot of watering to do, five-eighthsinch </span><br /><span>hose will carry twice as much water as a half-inch </span><br /><span>hose. Spreading the water about can be speeded up </span><br /><span>by using basins to catch the water and by digging </span><br /><span>furrows or trenches between the plants. A length of </span><br /><span>gutter with capped ends, placed on the higher side of </span><br /><span>the garden, can be punctured at intervals to </span><br /><span>coincide with the trenches. Then when water is slowly </span><br /><span>added to the gutter it flows down all the trenches at </span><br /><span>the same time. If you want to change the placement of </span><br /><span>the holes, the ones you don't need can either be </span><br /><span>soldered up or filled with a metal screw. </span><br /><span>Watering with a sprinkler. Lawn sprinklers are </span><br /><span>gentle, but they waste water by covering the whole </span><br /><span>area indiscriminately and spraying water into the air </span><br /><span>where it evaporates and blows about. They also wet </span><br /><span>the leaves, which can spread disease, and often </span><br /><span>turn the whole area into a mudhole. Canvas soil-</span><br /><span>soakers are preferable. They carry water gently to </span><br /><span>the soil around the roots. A wand and water-breaker, </span><br /><span>which is a length of rigid pipe that attaches to the </span><br /><span>end of the hose, can make it much easier to put the </span><br /><span>water where you want it. This is especially useful </span><br /><span>when you're watering hanging baskets and patio </span><br /><span>containers. A water timer that measures the flow of </span><br /><span>water and shuts off automatically when the right </span><br /><span>amount has been delivered is an expensive luxury. </span><br /><span>But it's an excellent device for the forgetful and can </span><br /><span>free you to do other things while the garden is being </span><br /><span>watered. </span><br /><span>Gardening is a most satisfying occupation, </span><br /><span>because you are constantly rewarded for your efforts. </span><br /><span>All the work you put into your vegetable garden— </span><br /><span>cultivating, mulching, watering, watching, and </span><br /><span>waiting—shows dividends in the shape of healthy </span><br /><span>plants that flourish visibly under your care as the </span><br /><span>season progresses. And all the labor pays off in </span><br /><span>tangible form at harvest time. </span><br /><span>But even when you've weathered the whole </span><br /><span>gardening season and brought your harvest home, </span><br /><span>you still have a few more tasks to complete in order </span><br /><span>to put your garden to bed for the winter. </span>gandhihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15342771507991122518noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5089391135299206410.post-73517712151340391762008-02-23T00:39:00.000-08:002008-02-23T04:20:33.548-08:00STARTING NEW PLANTS FROM PARTS<span>Seeds and transplants are not the only forms from </span><span>which to raise new plants; they're the forms you'll use </span><span>most often, but some vegetables are started from </span><span>other plant parts — suckers, tubers, slips, crowns, </span><span>sets, cloves, divisions, or cuttings. In some cases </span><span>plants can be grown either from seed or from plant </span><span>parts. Onions, for instance, take a very long time to </span><span>germinate from seed, so it usually makes more sense </span><span>to grow them from sets. Other plants grow best </span><span>from plant parts. The following are ways to start </span><span>vegetables from plant parts: </span><br /><span>Suckers. Suckers, or offshoots, are plants that </span><span>grow or shoot up from the root system of a mature </span><span>plant. These suckers are dug up and divided from </span><span>the mother plant, then transplanted to mature into </span><span>new plants. Globe artichokes are usually the only </span><span>vegetables grown from suckers. </span><br /><span>Divisions. Divisions, like suckers, occur naturally </span><span>in the form of small rooted plants or bulbs that grow </span><span>from the mother plant, and get their name from the </span><span>way you separate — or divide — them off to grow as </span><span>individual plants. You can dig up the new growth as </span><span>it appears and replant It. Or, as with bulbs, you can dig </span><span>up the mother plant, separate the small new bulbs, </span><span>and replant each unit. Horseradish and rhubarb are </span><span>grown from divisions. You can divide plants in </span><span>spring or in fall; fall is preferable, because the cool, </span><span>moist weather gives the new plants better </span><span>conditions in which to become established. </span><br /><span>Cuttings. Cuttings are divisions that don't occur </span><span>naturally. You obtain them by cutting a piece of stem </span><span>or side-branch from the plant at a node — a lumpy </span><span>area on the stem. The cutting is then placed in the soil </span><span>and forms its own roots. You can also put the </span><span>cutting in water until roots form. </span><br /><span>Slips. Slips are young, tender, rooted cuttings or </span><span>sprouts grown from roots. Sweet potatoes are the only </span><span>vegetables commonly grown from slips. </span><br /><span>Tubers. These are specialized swollen </span><span>underground stems, capable of producing roots, </span><span>stems, and leaves. Irish potatoes and Jerusalem </span><span>artichokes are usually grown from tubers. When the </span><span>tubers are cut up for planting, as in the case of Irish </span><span>potatoes, they are called seed pieces. </span><br /><span>Crowns. These are compressed stems near the </span><span>soil surface that are capable of producing leaves and </span><span>roots. Crowns are often planted with the roots </span><span>attached, in which case they're more accurately </span><span>referred to as roots. Crowns can be divided when </span><span>the plants are dormant. Asparagus is usually grown </span><span>from crowns. </span><br /><span>Sets. Sets are one-year-old onion seedlings that </span><span>were pulled when the bulbs were young. The bulbs </span><span>are then air dried, stored for the winter, and </span><span>planted the next spring. Onions are the only </span><span>vegetables grown from sets. </span><br /><span>Cloves. These are the segmented parts of a bulb; </span><span>they're also called bulblets. Garlic is the only </span><span>vegetable commonly grown from cloves. Each </span><span>garlic bulb is made up of a dozen or more cloves, and </span><span>you plant each clove separately. Don't divide the </span><span>bulb until you're ready to plant; separating the cloves </span><span>too early may result in lower yields. </span>gandhihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15342771507991122518noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5089391135299206410.post-53751049268295668252008-02-23T00:36:00.000-08:002008-02-23T04:23:19.012-08:00PLANTING FROM SEEDS IN THE GARDEN<span>Direct-seeding straight into the garden is the </span><span>easiest and least expensive way to grow vegetables. </span><span>But you may not have the sort of climate that will let </span><span>you direct-seed some vegetables; the seedlings may </span><span>take longer to grow, making them a lot more </span><span>susceptible to weather conditions than transplants </span><span>grown indoors. </span><br /><span>The vegetables to grow from seed are those that </span><span>will mature within the span of your growing season </span><span>and those that don't like to be transplanted. If your </span><span>growing season will accommodate them, all these </span><span>vegetables do well grown from seed in your </span><span>garden: beans, beets, carrots, collards, corn, </span><span>cucumbers, dandelions, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, </span><span>mustard, okra, peas, peanuts, pumpkins, rutabagas, </span><span>soybeans, spinach, squash, turnips, and </span><span>watermelons. </span><br /><span>Preparing the soil for direct-seeding </span><span>Soil preparation is the key to successful planting. </span><span>The first step is to dig up and turn over the soil to a </span><span>depth of eight to 12 inches—hard work, but a good </span><span>way to spend a crisp, early spring day. It's important </span><span>that the soil is neither too wet nor too dry when you </span><span>dig. Soil that's too wet will compact or form into large </span><span>clumps that will be so hard when they dry out that </span><span>nothing short of a sledgehammer will break them. If </span><span>the soil is too dry, the topsoil will just blow away. </span><span>Before you get into a good day's digging, pick up a </span><span>handful of soil and squeeze it; if it forms into a ball </span><span>that will hold together, yet crumbles easily, the soil is </span><span>ready to work. </span><br /><span>Adding organic matter. Organic matter enriches </span><span>the soil and improves its ability to control moisture, so </span><span>add organic matter in the spring to benefit the new </span><span>season's crop. If you planted a green manure or cover </span><span>crop in the fall to protect the topsoil, dig it all back </span><span>into the soil now as organic matter. Do the same if you </span><span>laid mulch over the soil instead of planting a cover </span><span>crop; dig the mulch in as you turn the soil. You can </span><span>also dig in compost that has been simmering nicely </span><br /><span>all winter. </span><br /><span>Fertilizing. You should fertilize your vegetable </span><span>garden twice a year. As part of your spring soil </span><span>preparation, dig in a complete, well-balanced </span><span>fertilizer (10-10-10 or a similar formulation) at the rate </span><span>of one pound per 100 square feet or 10 pounds per </span><span>1,000 square feet. Work the fertilizer evenly into the </span><span>soil. This application will keep your plants supplied </span><span>with nutrients until about halfway through the </span><br /><span>growing season. Then you'll apply the same </span><span>fertilizer at the same rate, but instead of spreading it </span><span>over the whole area you'll side-dress by distributing </span><span>the fertilizer in trenches between the rows of plants. </span><br /><span>Removing obstacles. When you're preparing the </span><span>soil, remove all stones, rocks, and lumps, and all the </span><span>assorted debris that has accumulated over the </span><span>winter. This is especially important if you're planting </span><span>root crops, because they'll fork and split if they </span><span>have to contend with large obstacles; but all seeds do </span><span>better in well-worked soil. Just before planting, </span><span>rake the seedbeds smooth and level off the surface by </span><span>drawing the back of your rake across the soil. </span><br /><span>Spacing and sowing the seeds </span><span>Sowing seeds sounds like a straightforward </span><span>procedure; but like most of your other gardening </span><span>activities, there's a procedure to follow to ensure </span><span>success. One of the easiest mistakes to make is to </span><span>plant the seeds too deep—or to assume that all </span><span>seeds are planted at the same depth. </span><br /><span>How deep you plant seeds depends on their size; </span><span>They need only enough soil to cover them and supply </span><span>moisture for germination, and seeds that are buried </span><span>too deep may not be able to struggle through the soil </span><span>surface. The planting guide at the end of this </span><span>chapter tells you exactly how deep to plant seeds of </span><span>each vegetable variety. The rule of thumb is that </span><span>seeds should be covered up to twice their diameter at </span><span>their largest point. That means if a seed is half an </span><span>inch in diameter, plant it an inch deep; if the seeds are </span><span>so small you can hardly see them, just press them </span><span>into the surface of the soil. After you've set seeds at the </span><span>correct depth, firm the soil by tamping it with your </span><span>hands or (gently) with your foot. This prevents the soil </span><span>from drying out too fast; it also helps keep rain from </span><span>washing away both the soil and the seeds. </span><br /><span>Spacing seeds is critical, because if plants are </span><span>forced to grow too close together they may produce a </span><span>poor yield or no yield at all. If the seeds are large </span><span>enough to handle, like beans and peas, it's fairly easy </span><span>to space them correctly. With tiny seeds or seeds </span><span>vining crops like cucumbers, melons, squash, and </span><span>watermelons. Keep an eye out for these pests and </span><span>hand-pick or wash them off the plants quickly, or </span><span>spray the plants with carbaryl before they can </span><span>spread disease. Detailed information on pest control </span><span>and disease prevention is given in "Keeping Your </span><span>Garden Healthy." </span><br /><span>Don't let your seedlings die of thirst. Adequate </span><span>watering is essential to young plants in their early </span><span>stages of growth. Be careful when you water your </span><span>seedlings, because a forceful blast of water can </span><span>damage them permanently or even wash them right </span><span>out of the ground, but be generous. Water to a depth </span><span>of six to eight inches to encourage deep rooting and </span><span>stronger growth. If your area is likely to have heavy </span><span>rains when you're waiting for the seeds to </span><span>germinate, apply a very light mulch over the </span><span>seedbed — this will also help to retain the moisture </span><span>that's in the soil. Don't overdo the mulch or put it on </span><span>so thickly that the germinating seeds can't push </span><span>through it. </span><br /><span>Give plants room to grow. Thinning is another </span><span>essential task in the early stages of the seedlings' </span><span>development. Refer to the planting guide at the end </span><span>of this chapter for specific instructions on spacing </span><span>each variety. Thin when the plants are young — </span><span>when they have formed two true leaves. If you wait </span><span>too long they may already have suffered from being </span><span>overcrowded. Thinning is a job that a lot of </span><span>gardeners do with some reluctance. It seems wasteful </span><span>to throw out all the extra little seedlings, but if you </span><span>don't do it you're condemning all your plants to </span><span>overcrowding and a miserable existence fighting </span><span>for food, light, and water. You're also defeating your </span><span>own purpose, because overcrowded plants will </span><span>give you a poor crop. </span>gandhihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15342771507991122518noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5089391135299206410.post-69824431238921217172008-02-23T00:32:00.000-08:002008-02-23T04:26:02.003-08:00HOW TO GROW TRANSPLANTS AT HOME<span>It's counterproductive to start seeds too early; this </span><span>holds true whether you're planting indoors or in the </span><span>garden. Young plants that are started too early will </span><span>get long and stringy, and they'll do poorly when </span><span>they're planted outdoors. The average date of last </span><span>frost for your area is your reference point for when to </span><span>plant each vegetable in the garden, and the chart at </span><span>the end of the chapter will give you this date. Set </span><span>your indoor planting date six to eight weeks ahead </span><span>of your outdoor planting date. Follow this rule for </span><span>each vegetable, and with this schedule, your plants </span><span>will be sturdy enough to face the outside world when </span><span>it's time to introduce them to it. </span><span>Providing the right environment </span><span>The purpose of growing transplants from seed is to </span><span>provide them with the correct environment for the </span><span>important early growth period. This requires both </span><span>care and common sense on your part. Cleanliness, </span><span>temperature, moisture, and light all contribute to </span><span>the healthy development of your plants. The </span><span>following are supplies — or conditions — you'll need </span><span>in order to grow transplants at home. </span><span>Planting medium. Young seedlings are subject to </span><span>damping-off — a disease that can ruin your potential </span><span>crop in infancy. Avoid disease problems by using a </span><span>sterilized planting medium. Regular potting soil is too </span><span>rich and will encourage the young plants to grow </span><span>too quickly. Instead, buy a seed-starter medium from </span><span>a reputable garden center. </span><br /><span>Flats. These are low-sided plastic trays or </span><span>containers used for planting seeds and are often </span><span>subdivided into divisions for each half dozen or so </span><span>plants. They're designed for use by nurseries and </span><span>professional gardeners, and are usually sold </span><span>wholesale. Make your own flats out of any shallow </span><span>container that has sides a couple of inches high; an </span><span>old cake pan is fine. Whatever container you use, be </span><span>sure to punch a hole for drainage in the bottom. </span><br /><span>Plantable containers. Some varieties of vegetables </span><span>do not transplant well. They resent having their root </span><span>systems disturbed and punish you by failing to </span><span>thrive after transplanting. Among these varieties are </span><span>corn, okra, beans, cucumbers, squashes, and </span><span>watermelons. If you start these varieties Indoors you </span><span>must use containers that can be planted along with </span><span>the seedling. There are several kinds. </span><span>Peat pots are simply compressed peat shaped </span><span>into a plant pot, and they come in a number of shapes </span><span>and sizes, so you can match them to the type of </span><span>seedling you're growing, jiffy pellets are also made of </span><span>compressed peat, but you buy them as little flat </span><span>discs a couple of inches across. When you add water </span><span>they rise to two or three Inches In height. Jiffy 7 </span><span>pellets have a net wrapping holding the peat in place. </span><span>This wrapping is supposed to disintegrate within a </span><br /><span>year after being planted out in the garden; in fact, the </span><span>wrapping doesn't always disintegrate that fast. Jiffy </span><span>9 pellets do not have the wrapping. They disintegrate </span><span>faster in the soil, but crumble more easily with </span><span>handling. You can buy trays to hold a dozen or more </span><span>Jiffy pellets, or you can stand them side by side in a </span><span>flat. </span><br /><span>Labels and markers. It may seem like a bother to </span><span>mark all your rows or containers, but It's worth it </span><span>because it saves a lot of confusion. Cabbage family </span><span>seedlings look much alike when young, as do hot and </span><span>sweet peppers, or cherry and beefsteak tomatoes. </span><span>The labels also tell you at a glance when you planted </span><span>the seeds. This gives you a quick check on how </span><span>seedlings out of the seedbed. Lift them from </span><span>underneath with a knife, spatula, or stick, and hold </span><span>them by their leaves to avoid permanent damage to </span><span>the stems. Make a hole in the new planting medium </span><span>deep enough to accept the roots without crowding, </span><span>and set the seedling's roots into the hole. Press the </span><span>soil gently around the roots. Water newly planted </span><span>seedlings carefully to get rid of air pockets and to </span><span>ensure that the roots will not dry out; then label them. </span><br /><span>Caring for the seedlings </span><br /><span>At this state of their development young seedlings </span><span>have very definite requirements. They need </span><span>temperatures that are a little on the cool side. For </span><span>most vegetables a nighttime low of 55°F and a daytime </span><span>high of 70°F is about right—if it's cooler, disease </span><span>problems may show up; if it's warmer, the plants will </span><span>get tall and spindly. It's also important that the </span><span>seedlings get plenty of light—at least six hours of </span><span>bright light a day. If your indoor space can't provide </span><span>enough natural light for your vegetable seedlings, use </span><span>artificial light as recommended earlier. The best </span><span>kind are plant growth lights; they emit high levels of </span><span>blue light, which encourages good stocky </span><span>vegetative growth. The lights should be close to the </span><span>leaves of the plants—about six to eight inches is </span><span>ideal. Keep the lights on for about 12 hours a day; an </span><span>automatic timer is handy if you're not going to be </span><span>around. </span><br /><span>Preparing your transplants for the garden </span><br /><span>Clearly you cannot take these pampered young </span><span>seedlings straight from their protected indoor setting </span><span>into the cold, cruel garden. They'd literally die of </span><span>shock. You have to prepare them for the change in </span><span>environment, a process known in horticultural </span><span>terms as hardening-off. You can do this by taking the </span><span>plants outside during the day and bringing them </span><span>back in at night for at least two weeks—keep them in, </span><span>though, if there's likely to be a frost. You can also </span><span>put them outside in a protected place—a cold frame or </span><span>a large box—and cover them with a rug or blanket at </span><span>night. This treatment will ready them for their final </span><span>place in the vegetable garden.<br /><br /></span><span>BUYING TRANSPLANTS FOR YOUR GARDEN </span><br /><span>A lot of people find that buying transplants from a </span><span>reputable nursery or garden center is the easiest way </span><span>to start their vegetable garden, providing high-</span><span>quality transplants and few problems. Growing your </span><span>own transplants from seed is a challenge to your </span><span>growing skills; it requires a lot of time and planning. </span><br /><span>and it can be messy. It's more expensive to buy </span><span>transplants than to grow your own, and you have </span><span>fewer varieties to choose from. But buying </span><span>transplants is a lot less work, and if you buy wisely you </span><span>can get high-quality plants. </span><br /><span>Choose the vegetables you buy as transplants on </span><span>the same principles that you'd use if you were going to </span><span>grow your own from seed at home; base your </span><span>decision on the length of your growing season and the </span><span>flexibility of the plant variety. Plants that adjust </span><span>without much difficulty to transplanting are broccoli, </span><span>Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, chard, </span><span>lettuce, and tomatoes. Celery, eggplant, onions, and </span><span>peppers are slightly less tolerant and require more </span><span>careful handling. Plants that do not transplant easily </span><span>are beans, corn, cucumbers, okra, peas, summer </span><span>and winter squash, and watermelons. Don't buy these </span><span>vegetables as transplants unless your growing </span><span>season is too short to let you grow from seed. If you do </span><span>buy them as transplants, make sure they're in </span><span>individual containers that can be planted with them. </span><br /><span>Choosing healthy transplants </span><br /><span>Always buy your transplants from a reputable </span><span>source—a good nursery or garden center, or through </span><span>the mail from an established supplier. The </span><span>supermarket is not the place to look for vegetable </span><span>plants. If you buy from an established source you </span><span>know that the plants have been grown with care, and </span><span>you know who to go to with questions or problems. </span><span>If you're buying from a mail order seed company, </span><span>the company will usually ship your plants at the right </span><span>time for planting. If you're buying from a garden </span><span>center or nursery, buy the transplants just before you </span><br /><span>plan to set them in the garden, and take time to </span><span>choose healthy young plants that are free of pests or </span><span>diseases. Before you go to the nursery or garden </span><span>center, make a written list of disease-resistant </span><span>varieties, and stick to it. Check plants carefully </span><span>before you buy, remembering that they're fragile and </span><span>not made for manhandling. Check stems and leaves </span><span>for any signs of pest or disease problems. Just before </span><span>you buy them, slip a seedling out of its container to </span><span>make sure that the roots are white and healthy. And , </span><span>don't forget to find out if they've already been </span><br /><span>hardened-off. </span><br /><span>If you buy your transplants and find you can't put </span><span>them into your garden right away, leave them outside </span><span>in a sunny area. If they're tender varieties, bring </span><span>them inside at night before the temperature drops. </span><span>Remember, too, that your transplants are in very </span><span>small containers and will use up the available supply of </span><span>moisture quickly. Check them often and water </span><span>them as necessary.<br /><br /></span><span>MOVING YOUR TRANSPLANTS OUTDOORS </span><br /><span>When you move your own transplants or bought </span><span>plants into the vegetable garden depends on the </span><span>variety and your average date of last frost. Refer to the </span><span>chart at the end of this chapter to find out when you </span><span>can transplant each type of vegetable. Arrange them </span><span>on the prepared soil bed so that you can judge the </span><span>correct spacing. The spacing chart at the end of this </span><span>chapter gives you detailed information on how </span><span>much space each variety needs. If the vegetable will </span><br /><span>need a support later — stakes for tomatoes, for </span><span>instance, or trellises for beans — set the support at the </span><span>time of planting. If you wait to stake or set up a </span><span>support you risk damaging the plant's developing root </span><span>system. </span><br /><span>Dig a hole under each plant as you're ready to set </span><span>it in the ground, then slip each plant gently out of its </span><span>container—unless the seedling is in a plantable pot, </span><span>in which case you plant the whole thing. If you're </span><span>planting seedlings in peat pots, break off any part of </span><span>the lip of the pot that might stick up out of the garden </span><span>soil. If you leave the lip above the soil level it will act </span><span>like a wick to dry out the soil inside the container, and </span><span>this could kill the young plant. If the plant is in a clay </span><br /><span>or plastic container and doesn't pop out easily, slide a </span><span>knife carefully around the inside of the container.<br /></span><span>Remember that bruising the stem can cause </span><span>permanent damage to the young plant. If you have </span><span>to handle the plant, hold it by the leaves, not the stem. </span><br /><span>Set each transplant in the soil, and tamp the soil </span><span>around it firmly with your hands. </span><br /><span>Don't plant transplants too deep; set them at the </span><span>same depth they were in the container. If they are tall </span><span>and leggy, make a small trench and set the plant at </span><span>an angle so that some of the stem is also under </span><span>the soil and the remainder stands straight — the </span><span>illustration on the next page shows how. This will </span><span>mean that only as much stem as the plant can support </span><span>comfortably is left above the ground so that the plant </span><span>won't get top heavy as it develops. </span><br /><span>When you've planted each seedling and firmed </span><span>the soil with your hands, give it a good send-off with an </span><span>application of a starter fertilizer. Starter fertilizers </span><span>are high in phosphorus (the middle number on the </span><span>fertilizer package), which stimulates root growth; if </span><span>the roots are growing strongly, the rest of the plant will </span><span>also grow sturdy and healthy. An ideal fertilizer is a </span><span>5-52-10 product—52 percent phosphorus in relation to </span><span>other nutrients. Buy one that matches this formula </span><span>as closely as possible. Mix the fertilizer with water </span><span>according to the package directions, and carefully </span><span>water each transplanted seedling with this solution. </span><br /><span>Then relax—for the time being, you've done your </span><span>best for your young plants. Refer to the following </span><span>section, in which direct-seeding is discussed, for </span><span>information on how to protect the plants from </span><span>unforeseen threats like extreme temperatures, </span><span>pests, and the like. Whether vegetables are grown </span><span>from seed or transplants, they require the same </span><span>care once they're in the garden. Follow the protective </span><span>procedures indicated to keep your plants healthy </span><span>until harvest time.</span>gandhihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15342771507991122518noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5089391135299206410.post-56711873331735480892008-02-23T00:25:00.000-08:002008-02-23T04:29:55.923-08:00HOW SOIL WORKS WITH YOUR PLANTS<span>Essentially the function of the soil in relation to the </span><span>plants that grow in it is fourfold: It must supply water; </span><span>it must supply nutrients; it must supply gases </span><span>(carbon dioxide and oxygen); and it must be firm </span><span>enough to support the plant securely. The ideal soil </span><span>is a middle-of-the-road mixture, holding moisture and </span><span>nutrients while letting excess water drain away to </span><span>make room for air. </span><br /><span>Don't make the mistake of assuming that your </span><span>garden contains only one type of soil; several different </span><span>soils can exist in one backyard. Each natural soil is </span><span>composed of fine rock particles, organic matter, and </span><span>microorganisms. A good soil is 50 percent solids </span><span>and 50 percent porous space, which provides room for </span><span>water, air, and plant roots. The solids are 80 to 90 </span><span>percent inorganic matter and 10 to 20 percent organic </span><span>materials. Water and air should each occupy about </span><span>half of the porous space. </span><br /><span>Types of soil </span><br /><span>There are four basic types of soil, and the texture of </span><span>each is determined by the different proportions of </span><span>various-sized soil particles. These four types of soil </span><span>are clay, sand, silt, and loam. </span><br /><span>Clay soil. A clay soil is composed of particles that </span><span>are less than 1/3 of an inch (1/200 mm) in diameter. </span><span>These minute particles pack together more closely </span><span>than larger particles and have a greater total </span><span>surface area. Clay soil can hold more water </span><span>than other soils. It often drains poorly, but drainage </span><span>can be improved by the addition of organic matter </span><span>to break up the clay particles. If you try to work with a </span><span>clay soil when it's wet, you'll compress the particles </span><span>even more closely; then, when the soil dries, you'll be </span><span>left with a surface something like baked brick or </span><span>concrete. Properly managed, however, clay soils can </span><span>be the most productive of all. </span><br /><span>Sandy soil. A sandy soil is made up mostly of </span><span>particles that are over 1/3175 of an inch (1/20 mm) in </span><span>diameter. They are much larger than clay particles </span><span>and irregular in shape, so they don't pack as closely </span><span>together as clay particles. Because they have less total </span><span>surface area, these larger particles hold less water </span><span>than smaller particles and are much more porous. </span><br /><span>Sandy soil drains like a sieve, but can be improved </span><span>by the addition of organic matter, which helps retain </span><span>moisture and nutrients. </span><span>Silt soil. In a silt soil the size of the particles is </span><span>intermediate — between clay and sand. Depending </span><span>on the size of its particles, a silt soil can act either </span><span>like a clay soil or like a fine sandy soil. Silt consists of </span><span>small, gritty particles that can pack down very hard, </span><span>and it's not very fertile. Silt soil is often found on top of </span><span>heavy clay, which slows or stops drainage. </span><br /><span>Loam. Loam is a mixture of clay, silt, and sand </span><span>particles. A good garden loam is something to cherish, </span><span>particularly if it also contains a heavy supply of </span><span>organic matter. All soil improvement is aimed at </span><span>achieving a good loam — when you add organic </span><span>matter or make other improvements to your clay or </span><span>sandy soil, you're trying to provide the type of loam </span><span>that lucky gardeners have without all that extra work.<br /></span><span>A do-it-yourself test of soil mixture </span><span>The best way to determine the approximate texture </span><span>of the soil in your garden is by feeling it with your </span><span>hands. Try this test: Take a small handful of moist </span><span>garden soil, and hold some of the sample between </span><span>your thumb and the first knuckle of your forefinger. </span><br /><span>Gradually squeeze the soil out with your thumb to </span><span>form a ribbon. If you can easily form a ribbon that </span><span>holds together for more than one inch, you have a very </span><span>heavy clay soil. If a ribbon forms, but it holds </span><span>together for only three-quarters of an inch to one </span><span>inch, your soil is a silty clay loam. If the ribbon forms </span><span>but breaks into pieces shorter than three-quarters of </span><span>an inch, you have a silty soil. If a ribbon won't form </span><span>at all, you have a sandy soil.<br /><br /></span><span>IMPROVING YOUR GARDEN SOIL </span><br /><span>Unless you're one of the lucky people with a garden </span><span>full of rich, productive loam, it's probable that you will </span><span>want to improve your soil in the interests of </span><span>harvesting a bigger and better crop of vegetables at </span><span>the end of your growing season. When you're </span><span>planning your soil-improvement program you have to </span><span>take two issues into account: the texture of the soil </span><span>and the nutrient content of the soil. You can improve </span><span>both quite easily. </span><br /><span>Improving soil texture </span><br /><span>The physical texture of any soil can be improved by </span><span>the addition of large amounts of organic matter. You </span><span>can use materials like ground corncobs, sawdust, </span><span>bark chips, straw, hay, peat moss, and cover crops; it's </span><span>a great way to recycle a lot of garden wastes. You </span><span>can use grass clippings, provided the lawn has not </span><span>been treated with a herbicide or weed killer; these </span><span>substances will damage the plants you want to grow. </span><span>Also avoid walnuts or walnut leaves. They contain </span><br /><span>iodine, which is a growth retardant. Making your own </span><span>compost pile gives you excellent organic matter to </span><span>enrich the soil and will be discussed later in this </span><br /><span>chapter. </span><br /><span>The more organic matter you add, the more you </span><span>can Improve the texture of the soil. Blend the organic </span><span>matter into the soil to a depth of 12 inches, making </span><span>sure that it's evenly dispersed through the whole </span><span>planting area. When organic matter is added to the </span><span>soil, it will absorb some of the soil's nitrogen; to </span><span>compensate for this, you should add two handfuls </span><span>of a complete, well-balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) for </span><span>each bushel of organic matter, working it </span><br /><span>thoroughly into the soil. </span><br /><span>Improving nutrient content </span><br /><span>The next step in your soil-improvement program is </span><span>to have the soil tested to identify deficiencies — </span><span>unless you correct those deficiencies, they can </span><span>cause poor plant growth. In some states the </span><span>Cooperative Extension Service will act as </span><span>middleman and send your soil sample to the </span><span>laboratory for you; in all states the extension </span><span>service can give you information on firms in your area </span><span>that do the tests. Either way, you will be charged a </span><span>fee for the test. </span><br /><span>The results of the soil test will give you the pH </span><span>(acid-alkaline balance) of the soil and its content of </span><span>three essential nutrients: nitrogen (N), which </span><span>promotes leafy growth (although too much nitrogen </span><span>will encourage too much foliage growth and slow </span><span>down crop ripening); phosphorus (P), which is </span><span>important for root growth and the production of </span><span>flowers, fruits, and seeds; and potassium (K), which is </span><br /><span>necessary for the development of leaves and roots. </span><span>The pH is measured on a scale of 1 (most acid or sour) </span><span>to 14 (most alkaline or sweet), with 7 representing </span><span>neutral. Most vegetables do best in soil that has a pH </span><span>between 5.5 and 7.5, and most of them prefer soil to </span><span>be on the acid side of neutral. </span><br /><span>How to take a soil sample. Soil samples can be </span><span>taken any time of the year, as long as the ground isn't </span><span>frozen hard. Use a plastic bucket instead of metal, </span><span>especially if the soil sample is to be used for testing </span><span>micronutrients. You'll also need a digging tool, </span><span>such as a spade or a trowel, and a clean container (a </span><br /><span>carefully washed-out one-pint milk carton or the </span><span>container provided by the testing service). All </span><span>equipment should be perfectly clean. </span><br /><span>If there's any grass on the spot you're sampling, </span><span>remove it. Then take a slice of soil half an inch thick </span><span>and about eight inches deep straight down from a </span><span>number of locations throughout your garden. If </span><span>you're sampling a large area, 20 samples mixed </span><span>together will do as fine a job as 40 or100. if your garden </span><span>is small, a minimum of five samples will be enough. </span><span>Place all the samples in the plastic bucket, and then </span><span>mix them thoroughly. If the soil is very wet, let it air-</span><br /><span>dry before mixing. Do not heat it in the oven or on a </span><span>radiator; heat will kill the microorganisms and </span><span>cause nitrogen and other elements to change form, </span><span>making the test inaccurate. If there are a lot of </span><span>lumps, crush them with a wooden spoon or a </span><span>rolling pin on a wooden surface. After the soil is </span><span>thoroughly mixed, fill your container and follow the </span><span>laboratory's instructions for sending the sample. </span><br /><span>Adjusting the pH balance. The results of your soil </span><span>test will give you the pH balance of the soil. If you're </span><span>lucky, the laboratory may say that the pH is just fine </span><span>and you need make no adjustment. Or the laboratory </span><span>may advise you to raise the pH by adding a </span><span>recommended amount of lime or to lower the pH by </span><span>adding a recommended amount of a sulfur </span><span>product — ammonium sulfate is the one most </span><span>commonly used. Don't use aluminum sulfate in </span><span>your vegetable garden; the aluminum can be </span><span>absorbed by the plant, making it toxic to you when </span><span>you eat the vegetable. You can get lime and sulfur </span><span>products from hardware stores and garden </span><span>centers; the laboratory report will tell you how much </span><span>to use and how to apply it. </span><span>It's a good idea to have your soil tested every </span><span>three to four years to make sure that the pH is in an </span><span>acceptable range. If you've had a problem with the </span><span>pH, it may be a good idea to test your soil even more </span><span>often. This may seem like a lot of work, but good </span><span>soil is essential to a good harvest, and your care and </span><span>labor will pay off in higher yields and better-quality </span><span>vegetables.</span><br /><br /><span>FERTILIZING: HOW TO DO IT (AND WHY) </span><br /><span>Many inexperienced gardeners have the idea that </span><span>since their vegetables have been doing fine so far </span><span>without fertilizer, they'll do fine without it next </span><span>year, too. But it's not quite that easy. Certainly, your </span><span>plants may provide you with vegetables even if you </span><span>don't fertilize at all, but you won't be getting their best </span><span>effort. Vegetable plants that are properly fertilized </span><span>will be healthier and better able to resist disease and </span><span>attacks from pests, thus giving you more — and </span><span>higher-quality — produce. </span><br /><span>Organic vs. synthetic fertilizers </span><span>There are two types of fertilizer: organic and </span><span>inorganic. They're both means to the same end, but </span><span>their composition and action differ in a number of </span><span>ways. Some people make a sharp distinction between </span><span>the two, and organic gardeners — as the name </span><span>suggests — are strongly in favor of organic fertilizers </span><span>and strongly opposed to the use of synthetics. This </span><br /><span>is more a matter of personal philosophy than of </span><span>horticulture, because plants can't read the label on </span><span>the package and can only absorb nutrients in an </span><span>Organic matter has to take nitrogen from the soil in </span><span>order to keep the decaying process going. </span><span>Composting keeps the waste in one place where it's </span><span>not depriving plants of nitrogen.<br /></span><span>Composting can save money that you would </span><span>otherwise spend on soil conditioners and fertilizers. It </span><span>can save time, too, because it gives you a place to </span><span>dispose of leaves and grass clippings. </span><span>How the composting process works </span><span>Compost forms as organic wastes are broken down </span><span>by microorganisms in the soil. These microorganisms </span><span>don't create nutrients; they just break down </span><br /><span>complex materials into simple ones that the plant can </span><span>use. Most soil organisms are inactive when soil </span><span>temperatures are below 40°F; they don't begin </span><span>working in earnest until the temperature goes up to </span><span>about 60°F, and most of them don't work well in a </span><span>very acid element. Because they are extremely small, </span><br /><span>microorganisms work faster when not </span><span>overwhelmed by large chunks of material. </span><br /><span>There are two basic kinds of microorganisms: </span><br /><span>those that need air to work (aerobic) and those that </span><span>don't (anaerobic). It's possible to compost in an </span><span>airtight container, thanks to the microorganisms that </span><span>don't need air. A tightly covered plastic trash can </span><span>will convert an enormous amount of organic kitchen </span><span>waste into compost in the course of a winter. The </span><span>classic outdoor compost pile should be turned </span><span>regularly with a pitchfork to provide air for the </span><span>microorganisms that need it. </span><br /><span>How to start a compost pile </span><br /><span>If you have a fairly large garden, the best place to </span><span>put your compost pile is at one end of the garden. The </span><span>pile can be square, rectangular or round; four to </span><span>five feet across; and as long as the available space. You </span><span>can use fencing or cinder blocks to keep the pile </span><span>under control .</span><br /><span>If space is at a premium or if a compost pile </span><span>doesn't fit in with your landscaping, start the heap </span><span>behind some bushes or behind the garage. If the </span><span>space available is extremely small, you can compost in </span><span>a large heavy-duty plastic bag or plastic garbage </span><span>can. You can also work the material directly into the soil. </span><br /><span>To build a compost pile, start out with one to two </span><span>feet of leaves, if you have them, or six to twelve inches </span><span>of more compact material, such as grass clippings </span><span>or sawdust. Over this put a layer of fertilizer (manure, </span><span>blood, bone, cottonseed meal, or commercial </span><span>fertilizer) and some finely ground limestone (most </span><span>microorganisms like their environment sweet). </span><br /><span>Then add some soil to hold water and provide a starter </span><span>colony of microorganisms. Water the compost </span><span>carefully. Add a second layer of leaves or other </span><span>garden waste and repeat the layers. If you have </span><span>enough material or enough room, put on a third </span><span>layer. The pile should be kept moist like a squeezed, </span><span>but not sopping, sponge. As more material </span><span>becomes available, make new layers, adding more </span><span>fertilizer and lime each time. Turn the pile with a </span><span>pitchfork about once a month. </span><span>You can use all garden waste on your compost </span><span>pile except disease- and pest-laden materials, or those </span><span>that have been treated with pesticides or weedkillers— </span><span>for instance, grass clippings from an area </span><span>that's been treated with a herbicide. Use </span><span>nontreated grass clippings, leaves, weeds, and sod. </span><span>You can also use kitchen leftovers like vegetable </span><span>and fruit peels, vegetable tops, coffee grounds, tea </span><span>leaves, and eggshells. The finer these materials are </span><span>chopped and the deeper they're buried, the quicker </span><span>they'll be converted and the less chance there is </span><span>that they'll be dug up by inquisitive animals. You can </span><span>also compost hay, straw, hulls, nutshells, and tree </span><br /><span>trimmings (not walnut). But unless they're shedded, </span><span>these materials will take a long time to decompose. </span><span>There are a number of ways you can speed up the </span><span>composting process. First, you can grind or shred all. </span><span>compost materials to give the microorganisms a </span><span>head start. Second, make sure the pile doesn't dry out, </span><span>and provide enough fertilizer to encourage rapid </span><span>growth of the bacteria. Third, you can use a starter </span><span>culture, either material from an established </span><span>compost pile or a commercial starter culture. </span><span><br />Composting is a creative activity. There are </span><span>almost as many different methods of composting as </span><span>there are gardeners, and like a good stew, the proof </span><span>is in the final product. And when other gardeners see </span><span>your compost pile, they'll know you're taking good </span><span>care of your garden and that you're not just a </span><span>horticultural dabbler. </span><span>Compost and mulch — The difference is in the use </span><span>If you're an inexperienced gardener, you may be </span><span>confused by the difference between composting and </span><span>mulching — both processes use waste organic </span><span>matter. The difference is in the use. Composted </span><span>materials are dug back into the soil to enrich it and </span><span>to enable the plants to use the nutrients that have </span><span>been released by the decaying process. A mulch is a </span><span>layer of material spread over the ground or around </span><span>plants to provide protection from heat or cold, to </span><span>retain soil moisture, or to maintain a certain soil </span><span>temperature. Compost stays in the soil and </span><span>eventually becomes part of it; a mulch is removed </span><span>when the protection it provides is no longer </span><span>needed.<br /><br /></span><span>HOW TO GARDEN WITH HOPELESS (OR NO) SOIL </span><br /><span>You may be unlucky enough to have a garden full of </span><span>hopeless soil—heavy clay, perhaps, or as sandy as a </span><span>beach. Even if you're sure that no soil improvement </span><br /><span>program would help, you needn't give up hope of </span><span>having a vegetable garden. It's not too difficult to </span><span>you've probably been looking forward to </span><span>planting your garden all winter. And you've </span><span>probably been thinking it's the easiest part, too. </span><span>What can be so complicated about planting a garden? </span><span>Nothing to It. Mot so fast—there are a number of </span><span>questions you have to consider before you start </span><span>throwing seeds around. </span><br /><span>For one thing, should you be planting seeds at </span><span>all? Or should you be using transplants (young </span><span>plants started from seed indoors)? If you're going to </span><span>use transplants, should you grow them yourself or </span><span>buy them from a nursery or garden store? And how </span><span>should your crop be spaced—in rows, wide bands, </span><span>or inverted hills? Like every other stage of growing a </span><span>vegetable garden, planting poses a lot of questions; </span><span>It's more complex than you may have figured.<br /><br /></span><span>SEEDS OR TRANSPLANTS: HOW TO DECIDE </span><br /><span>The answers to the questions of what and where to </span><span>plant depend on several factors: where you live, the </span><span>kind of vegetables you decide to grow, and the </span><span>amount of work you can reasonably handle. It's </span><span>important to recognize your own limitations in terms </span><span>of time, energy, and space. If you spend plenty of </span><span>time at home, you may thoroughly enjoy nurturing </span><span>your own transplants from seed. On the other </span><span>hand, your home may not easily accommodate trays of </span><span>young seedlings that need to be protected from </span><span>cats, dogs, and curious children. And, if you're away a </span><span>lot or know you're only going to be able to garden </span><span>on weekends, you may want to give yourself a break </span><span>and buy your transplants when you're ready to put </span><span>them in the ground. Giving due consideration to </span><span>practical matters like these will ensure that </span><span>gardening is a labor of love — not a sentence to hard </span><span>labor. </span><br /><span>Growing transplants: Pros and cons </span><br /><span>Starting at square one and growing transplants from </span><span>seeds can be a challenging and satisfying activity. It </span><span>saves money, and it gives you a chance to </span><span>experiment with varieties you can't buy locally as </span><span>transplants. That's the good news. The bad news is </span><span>that growing transplants yourself requires time, </span><span>space, and attention. If you only want a few plants </span><span>or you're just embarking on the gardening </span><span>experience, you may do better to have someone do </span><span>the preliminary work for you. Also, these little plants </span><span>are going to be the foundation of your vegetable </span><span>garden, so if you can't give them the environmental </span><span>conditions they need for best early growth, it makes </span><span>sense to let them start off with someone who can. </span><br /><span>Transplants can be temperamental </span><span>The whole point of growing vegetables from </span><br /><span>transplants is to make the best use of your growing </span><span>season. If a crop needs a long, cool growing season </span><span>and you know that where you live the weather's going </span><span>to be hot as Hades long before you can expect to </span><span>harvest, you're going to have to use transplants. You </span><span>have to consider, however, the flexibility of the </span><span>plant variety. Some plants survive transplanting </span><span>without any problem. Some hate it. Among plants </span><span>that make the adjustment without much difficulty are </span><br /><span>broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, cauliflower, </span><span>chard, lettuce, and tomatoes. Celery, eggplant, </span><span>onions, and peppers are a little less tolerant and </span><span>require some care in transplanting. Other vegetables, </span><span>especially those with large seeds, resent </span><span>transplanting and do much better when they're </span><span>planted directly from seed after the soil warms up. </span><br /><span>Among these more temperamental crops are </span><span>beans, corn, cucumbers, okra, peas, summer and </span><span>winter squash, and watermelons. If you start any of </span><span>these vegetables indoors, you'll have to use individual </span><span>containers that can be planted along with them in </span><span>order not to disturb their sensitive root systems. </span><br /><span>Your three-stage planting plan </span><span>If you're planting a number of different vegetables, </span><span>you will probably use all three of the systems we've </span><span>mentioned. For instance, you may grow your own </span><span>tomato and lettuce transplants from seed, direct-seed </span><span>your peas and beans in the garden, and buy your </span><span>young pepper plants from a garden center. In this </span><span>case, your first task will probably be to start your </span><span>transplants indoors, beginning eight weeks or more </span><span>before your last date of average frost depending on </span><span>the varieties you're growing. A couple of weeks later </span><span>you can start direct-seeding — again timing your </span><span>plantings according to the variety. Last, you can plant </span><span>the transplants you purchased. </span><br /><span>Good soil preparation is essential to all young </span><span>plants. You'll be doing your soil preparation before </span><span>direct-seeding, so the two procedures will be </span><span>discussed together.</span>gandhihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15342771507991122518noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5089391135299206410.post-30670443491601217112008-02-23T00:18:00.000-08:002008-02-23T04:31:54.633-08:00Gardening in a greenhouse:<span>A refuge for plants and gardener </span><br /><span>With a greenhouse you can garden all year around </span><span>and experiment with ail kinds of plants that you have </span><span>little chance of growing out in the open garden. A </span><br /><span>greenhouse is also a nice, cozy, private place for the </span><span>gardener whose gardening time Is often interrupted </span><span>by demands from other family members. If you're </span><br /><span>going to buy and install a greenhouse, it's worth </span><span>getting a good one.<br />T</span><span>here are a great many garden tools on the </span><span>market. Some are necessary, some are helpful, </span><span>and some are a complete waste of money. If you're </span><span>a beginning gardener, approach all this equipment </span><span>with caution—be sure that you're going to enjoy </span><br /><span>being a gardener before you spend a small fortune on </span><span>tools. Remember, too, that one of your motives in </span><span>being a gardener Is to save money by growing your </span><br /><span>own vegetables; you'll have to grow a lot of lettuce </span><span>to pay for a $300 rototiller. </span><br /><span>When you decide which tools you need, buy the </span><span>best you can find and take good care of them. As in so </span><span>many other activities, it's a long-term economy </span><br /><span>move to buy good equipment right away—ask any </span><span>serious cook. Good tools work better and last </span><span>longer than the cheap kinds that fall to pieces the first </span><br /><span>time you need them to do any real work. </span><br /><span>The first test of a tool is how it feels in your hands. </span><br /><span>Is it well-balanced? Can you lift it when it's full as well </span><span>as when it's empty? Gardeners and gardening tools </span><span>come in different sizes and weights; since you'll be </span><br /><span>working together, you and your equipment should </span><span>be compatible. </span><br /><span>In caring for your tools, there are three basic </span><span>rules that are often stated and seldom followed:<br /></span><span>1. Clean your tools before putting them away. It </span><span>may be a bore, but it's even more boring to have to </span><span>clean them before you can use them again. </span><br /><span>2. Have a regular storage place for each tool. </span><span>Visitors will be impressed by your orderliness, and </span><span>you'll be able to tell at a glance if you've put </span><span>everything away or if you've left some small item out in </span><span>the rain to rust. </span><br /><span>3. Use each tool the way it was meant to be used. </span><br /><span>For instance, a rake—even a good-quaiity rake—^won't </span><span>last long if you consistently use it to dig holes or </span><span>turn soil. You've got a perfectly good spade for those </span><span>tasks. </span><br /><span>Follow these three simple rules and your tools </span><span>will give you long, efficient, and economical service.<br /><br />BASIC GARDENING TOOLS<br />The following are the basic tools of the gardener.<br />You may not need them all. Consider the type and amount of gardening you do, and choose the implements that best suit your needs.<br />Shovel and spade. A shovel has a curved scoop and a handle with a handgrip. It's used for lifting, turning, and moving soil. A spade is a sturdy tool with a thick<br />handle (and a handgrip) and a heavy blade that you press into the ground with your foot. The blade is usually flatter and sharper than the shovel's, and often<br />squared off at the bottom. A spade is for hard digging work; it should be strong but light enough to handle comfortably. A nursery shovel or nursery spade is an excellent all-around tool in the vegetable garden.<br />Spading fork. A spading fork is also used for heavy digging, and its two to four prongs make it the best tool for breaking up compacted soil, lifting root<br />vegetables, and digging weeds. The handle is sturdy and has a handgrip; your foot presses the prongs into the ground. Forks with flexible prongs are called pitchforks; the ones with sturdier, rigid prongs are called spading forks.<br />Rake. A rake with a long handle and short sturdy metal prongs is used for leveling and grading soil, stirring up the soil surface, and removing lumps, rocks, and shallow-rooted weeds. It's an essential tool for the home gardener. You can also get rakes with longer, flexible fingers. This type is not as versatile as<br />the first type, but it's good for gentle cultivating, cleaning-up chores like raking the leaves, and collecting trash from between plants.<br />Hoe. The hoe is a tool with a flat blade attached at right angles to a long handle. It's used for stirring or mounding the soil and for making rows, and it's one<br />of the gardener's most necessary tools. It's also used for cutting off weeds and cultivating. Trowel. This is a short-handled implement with a<br />pointed scoop-shaped blade. It can be used as a hand shovel or spade and is useful when transplanting young plants into the garden.<br />Hose. A garden hose is essential for carrying water to your garden. Hoses are usually made from rubber or vinyl; rubber is more expensive, but it's<br />worth the initial extra cost because it's far more durable than vinyl and much easier to work with.<br />Make sure your hose is long enough to reach comfortably to all parts of your garden. An effective hose should probably be no less than 50 feet long.<br />Choose the planter best suited to your needs.<br />Planting row guide. A row guide is simply two stakes with a line marked at six-inch intervals stretched between them. It helps you mark straight<br />rows and plant seeds or plants evenly and quickly. A row guide you make yourself works every bit as well as an expensive store-bought one. To make your own,<br />just tie a good string line (as long as your garden at its longest point) between two stakes, and mark the line every six inches with colored markers. Come<br />plantingtime,setupyourguideandpiantalongit.The straight rows of plants you get when you use a guide are easier to weed, water, and harvest than random<br />plantings.<br />Plant cages. Although these are commonly referred to as tomato cages, you can also use them to support vining crops like cucumbers and squashes.<br />They're usually made of wire or covered wire and come in a variety of sizes. They contain the plant in a manageable space and keep it off the ground. Round<br />cages are the most common, but you can now buy square ones that are a lot more convenient because they fold flat for storage. When you're buying cages, make sure that they're big enough and sturdy enough for the plant variety and that you can get your hand inside to harvest your crop.<br /><br />TOOLS FOR CONTAINER GARDENING<br />If you're a container gardener, special tools—in many respects scaled-down versions of regular garden tools—are available for your use.<br />Hand cultivator. A hand cultivator helps you control weeds. One type has three prongs. The pickax kind has one single-pointed end and a double point on the other end. Choose whatever type you like best. Hand hoe. This has a shorter handle and a smaller blade than a regular garden hoe.<br />Trowel. No container gardener should be without a trowel—it's even more useful here than in a full-size garden for filling containers, transplanting, dividing clumps of plants, and leveling soil.<br />Watering equipment. A watering wand makes it easier to reach the less accessible corners of your container garden. The wand is a hollow metal tube that attaches to the end of your hose, and it lets you water the back rows of your container garden without reaching over and possibly crushing the front<br />rows. If you're an indoor gardener, you will also make good use of a small watering can, and a spray-mister to freshen foliage. Any household spray<br />bottle makes a good mister, provided it is thoroughly washed out first.<br />Soil is the thin blanket that exists between sterile rock and the sky. Soil supports all life and is itself, in some measure, the product of living things. For all that, we often treat the soil like, literally, the dirt under our feet. We've developed this careless attitude partly because for generations soil has been dirt cheap. There was never any problem about having enough of it. This is no longer true; good soil is getting harder to find. You can no longer take it for granted that you'll find good garden soil lying around in your backyard. If you live in a residential<br />or industrial area, you can be pretty sure that after the developers left, not much good soil remained. It was probably removed and sold before the construction began, or buried under the excavation for the foundation of the new buildings. Unless you're a farmer or a commercial grower, chances are you simply lay out your garden in the most convenient spot and make the best of whatever soil happens to be there. But even if what happens to be there is less than ideal, there's a lot you can do to turn it into a healthy, productive garden.<br />Understanding soil and how plants grow in it will help you make the most of what you've got right there in your own yard. </span>gandhihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15342771507991122518noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5089391135299206410.post-29389732119155551392008-02-23T00:10:00.000-08:002008-02-23T04:33:09.468-08:00HOW TO GET YOUR GARDEN STARTED<span>PUTTING THE THEORIES TO WORK </span><br /><span>Up to this point, most of your garden planning has </span><span>been theoretical. You've given thought to the </span><span>vegetables you want to grow, what you're going to </span><span>do with them, and how much you need to grow. </span><span>You've got an idea of how the climate in your area </span><span>will influence your final choice of vegetables. </span><span>You're beginning to understand your microclimate — </span><span>how growing conditions in your own yard may </span><br /><span>differ from the general climate of your area. Now </span><span>you're ready to start getting your plans on paper, </span><span>but as soon as you open the seed catalog, confusion </span><br /><span>strikes again. You want to grow your own corn, </span><span>tomatoes, lettuce, and carrots — but what kind? </span><br /><span>Finding the varieties suited to your area. Because </span><span>there are so many varieties, it can be very difficult to </span><span>choose the right one. Part 2 of this book describes </span><br /><span>the individual vegetables and their cultural </span><span>requirements and lists some of the best and most </span><span>widely used varieties. But in many cases the varieties </span><br /><span>listed represent only the tip of the iceberg. Where a </span><span>large number of varieties are available (as with corn or </span><span>tomatoes) or where success depends as much on </span><br /><span>growing conditions as on variety (as with onions), your </span><span>best bet is to get in touch with your local </span><span>Cooperative Extension Service. The service's experts </span><br /><span>will be able to tell you exactly which varieties will do </span><span>best in the growing conditions that exist in your part of </span><span>the country. A complete list of Cooperative </span><br /><span>Extension Services is given in Part 4, together with </span><span>detailed information on how to get your gardening </span><span>questions expertly answered by their qualified </span><span>horticulturalist. </span><br /><span>Guaranteed varieties: The All-America Selection. </span><span>Another way to find the most reliable varieties for your </span><span>area is through the All-America Selections. This is a </span><br /><span>nonprofit organization of seedsmen who develop </span><span>and promote new varieties of vegetables and </span><span>flowers. The organization awards gold, silver, or </span><span>bronze medals to vegetable varieties that have been </span><span>proven to produce reliable results in most areas of the </span><span>United States. If a vegetable is listed in your seed </span><span>catalog as an All-America Selection, you can be sure </span><span>that it has been tested by growers all over the </span><span>country and that it's a good bet for your own garden. </span><br /><span>The organization does not bestow its seal of </span><span>approval lightly — only one or two vegetable varieties </span><span>win a gold medal in any year. </span><br /><span>Experiment with different varieties. Remember, </span><span>too, that you don't always have to play by the rules. </span><span>You can plant more than one variety of a vegetable </span><br /><span>and decide for yourself which one is best suited to </span><span>your palate and your garden. You can also extend </span><span>your harvest by planting varieties that mature at </span><span>different times. Experimenting is a good part of the </span><span>fun of growing a vegetable garden. </span><span>Dates: When to plant and when to harvest </span><span>Selecting the varieties you're going to grow gives </span><span>you some hard information with which to work. You </span><span>now know when to plant your vegetables. The </span><span>hardiness chart in "Planting Your Garden" will tell you </span><span>to which category — very hardy, hardy, tender, </span><span>very tender — a vegetable belongs and when to plant </span><span>it. Now is the time to decide whether to use seeds or </span><br /><span>transplants. Transplants are young plants started from </span><span>seed indoors or in a warm place (like a hot frame) </span><span>and planted in the garden when the weather's warm </span><br /><span>enough. By planting transplants you can often get a </span><span>head start on your growing season and avoid some of </span><span>the limitations placed on you by your area climate. </span><br /><span>Not all vegetables, however, take kindly to being </span><span>transplanted. Full information about growing </span><span>vegetables from transplants — including what to plant </span><span>and when — is given in "Planting Your Garden." </span><br /><span>It's important to plan your planting dates </span><span>accurately. It's also important to know when your crop </span><span>will be ready for harvest. The number of days it </span><span>takes a plant to reach maturity varies according to type </span><span>and to varieties within a type. </span><br /><span>Each vegetable variety has its "days to maturity" </span><span>listed in the seed catalog. Take a calendar, and see </span><span>how the dates fall for the crops you're thinking of </span><br /><span>growing. For instance, "jade Cross Hybrid" Brussels </span><span>sprouts take 95 days to maturity. They're very hardy, </span><span>so you can plant them six weeks before your last </span><br /><span>spring frost. If your area expects its last frost at the </span><span>end of April, you can plant your Brussels sprouts in the </span><span>garden in mid-March, and they'll mature in mid-</span><br /><span>June. They're a cool-season vegetable, so as long as </span><span>the weather in your area won't be sizzling hot by </span><span>mid-June, you should do well with them. In this way, </span><br /><span>work out all the dates on which you can expect to </span><span>harvest your vegetables, and make a list of them. This </span><span>will give you a chance to make changes if, despite all </span><br /><span>your planning, you've got too large a crop maturing at </span><span>the same time. It will also give you some ideas about </span><span>"pacing" your crop. </span><br /><span>Pacing your harvest for best yield </span><span>Deciding when to plant involves more than </span><br /><span>avoiding killing frosts. It also means pacing your • </span><span>planting so you get maximum yields from limited </span><span>space. You can harvest some crops gradually, </span><span>enjoying them for a long period of time; others </span><span>mature all at once. This takes careful planning. You </span><span>have to have a good idea of how long it will take </span><span>your vegetables to mature and how long the harvest </span><span>will last. It will also take some self-control. The </span><br /><span>temptation to plant rows of everything at once is great. </span><br /><span>Planting short rows. A simple way to pace your </span><span>harvest is to plant only short rows or partial rows. </span><span>Planting short rows is probably easier; you may feel </span><br /><span>more comfortable with a complete row, even if it is </span><span>short. A 10-foot row looks short, but 10 feet of </span><span>radishes ready to eat at once is more than most </span><br /><span>people can handle. Ten feet of parsley or garlic may </span><span>be more than enough for the whole neighborhood. </span><span>You can freeze parsley and dry the garlic, but what </span><br /><span>can you do with all those radishes? Unwanted </span><span>excesses of crops can be avoided if you divide your </span><span>seeds into groups before going out to plant. Put them </span><br /><span>in "budget" envelopes to be planted on definite </span><span>dates later on in the season but before the early crops </span><span>are harvested. For instance, plant lettuce every two </span><br /><span>weeks. This way you can have vegetables all season, </span><span>rather than glut followed by famine. </span><span>Using several varieties. Another way to pace your </span><br /><span>harvest is to plant several varieties of the same </span><span>vegetable that mature at different rates. For </span><span>instance, on the average date of last frost plant three </span><span>different tomato varieties: an early variety that will </span><span>mature in about 60 to 70 days; a midseason variety that </span><span>will mature in about 75 to 80 days; and a late variety </span><span>that will mature in about 80 to 90 days. By planting </span><span>these three varieties on the same day you have </span><br /><span>spread your harvest over a 30- to 50-day period, </span><span>instead of a 10- to 20-day period. </span><br /><span>Succession planting. With careful planning you </span><span>may also be able to save garden space and get two or </span><span>more harvests from the same spot by succession </span><br /><span>planting. After early-maturing crops are harvested, </span><span>you clear a portion of the garden and replant it with </span><span>a new crop. Plant so that cool-season crops grow in the </span><br /><span>cooler part of the season, and warm-season crops </span><span>can take advantage of warmer weather.<br /></span><span>One example of succession planting is to start off </span><span>with a fast-growing, cool-season crop that can be </span><span>planted early—lettuce, spinach, and cabbage </span><span>(cole) family vegetables are good examples. Replace </span><span>these by warm-weather crops like New Zealand </span><span>spinach, chard, corn, okra, and squash. Then in fall </span><span>make another planting of cole crops, or put in root </span><span>crops like turnips or beets. </span><br /><span>In a small area, one simple plan is to start off with </span><span>spinach, which is very hardy but hates hot weather, </span><span>and replace it with heat-tolerant New Zealand </span><br /><span>spinach. Despite their different temperature </span><span>requirements, the two can double for each other in </span><span>taste, and you get spinach all season long. </span><br /><span>You can also make double use of trellis space — a </span><span>big plus in a small garden. Plant early peas, replace </span><span>them with cucumbers, and after harvesting your </span><span>cucumbers, plant peas again for a fall crop. </span><br /><span>Companion planting. This is another way to </span><span>double up on planting space. This you do by planting </span><span>short-term crops between plants that will take a </span><span>longer time to mature. The short-term crops are </span><span>harvested by the time the longer-season crops need </span><span>the extra room. A good example of this is to plant </span><span>radishes between rows of tomatoes; by the time the </span><span>tomatoes need the space, the radishes will be gone. </span><br /><br /><span>GETTING YOUR GARDEN ON PAPER </span><br /><span>By this time you've put a lot of thought into your </span><span>garden plan, and you've got some vital information </span><span>and dates on paper — the names of the varieties </span><br /><span>you're going to plant and your planting and harvest </span><span>dates. Now comes the real paperwork. The size of </span><span>your garden depends on your interest in gardening </span><br /><span>and how much time you're going to be able to give </span><span>to the garden. Some gardeners use every available </span><span>inch of space; others use a small corner of their </span><span>property — some, of course, don't have much choice, </span><span>and this may be your case if you have a small garden </span><span>to begin with or if you're gardening on a patio or </span><span>balcony. The larger your garden, the more time and </span><span>work it's going to need, so unless you're already </span><br /><span>hooked on gardening, it's probably better to start </span><span>small and let your garden size increase as your </span><span>interest in gardening and confidence in your ability </span><br /><span>develops. </span><br /><span>Before you decide the exact dimensions, look at </span><span>the list of the vegetables you've chosen and the </span><span>amount you're going to grow of each one, and </span><span>figure out if they're going to fit into the allotted space. </span><br /><span>You may see at once that you've overestimated </span><span>what you can grow in the available space, so you'll </span><span>have to do a little compromising between fantasy </span><span>and reality. If your projected crops look as though </span><span>they'll fit, you can now start drawing an actual plan. </span><br /><span>Drawing a plot plan </span><br /><span>This is the pencil-and-paper stage of planning, and </span><span>if you use graph paper, you'll find it easier to work to </span><span>scale. Don't be intimidated by all this talk about </span><br /><span>drawing and sketching. Your garden plan doesn't </span><span>have to be a work of art — just a working document. </span><span>Drawing to scale, however, is helpful. A commonly </span><br /><span>used scale is one inch on paper to eight feet of </span><span>garden space — adapt the scale to whatever is </span><span>easiest for you. </span><br /><span>Draw up a simple plot plan giving your garden's </span><span>measurements in all directions. Remember there's no </span><span>law that says a garden has to be square or </span><br /><span>rectangular. Your vegetable garden can be round, </span><span>triangular, curved, or any shape that fits your </span><span>landscape and takes best advantage of the space </span><br /><span>you've got. When you've drawn the outline, sketch </span><span>in all the nongrowing areas where you won't be able to '' </span><span>plant — trees, shrubs, sidewalks, sheds, buildings, </span><span>walls, and the garage. Indicate any areas that are </span><span>particularly shady or poorly drained and, therefore, </span><span>aren't suitable for fussy crops. </span><br /><span>Planning for three stages. It's helpful to draw three </span><span>plot plans: The first will show the garden at planting </span><span>time in the spring; the second will show the garden </span><br /><span>in the summer; and the third will show the garden in </span><span>the fall. These plans will reflect the changes that </span><span>take place in your garden when you harvest early </span><br /><span>crops and replace them with new plantings. Make </span><span>two copies of plans; keep one set inside where the </span><span>plans will stay dry, clean/and legible. Use the other </span><br /><span>set in the garden — where it probably won't stay dry, </span><span>clean, or legible for long. Plans have also been </span><span>known to blow away in a spring breeze — a disaster if </span><br /><span>that's your only copy. </span><br /><span>Putting the plants into the plan. Once you've </span><span>outlined your plot and indicated all the nongrowing </span><span>areas, get down to detail. Use the accompanying </span><br /><span>illustrations as a guide, and divide the plot among the </span><span>vegetables you want to grow. The individual </span><span>descriptions of vegetables in Part 2 give detailed </span><br /><span>information on the amount of space each vegetable </span><span>needs for growth. For a quick check on spacing refer </span><span>to the chart at the end of "Planting Your Garden." </span><br /><span>Don't try to economize on space — better a smaller </span><span>number of healthy plants than a lot of starved ones. </span><span>Using your space efficiently. Take care in placing </span><span>the vegetables. Place the taller plants on the north or </span><span>northeast side of the garden so that as they grow </span><span>they won't shade the rest of the garden. In a large </span><span>garden where you've got plenty of space, the most </span><span>convenient way to lay out the vegetables is in rows </span><span>and hills. Straight rows and hills are easier to water, </span><span>weed, cultivate, mulch, and fertilize. If you are going </span><span>to use a rototiller, make sure the rows are large </span><br /><span>enough to accommodate the machine. </span><span>In smaller gardens it's more space-efficient to </span><span>plant in wide rows or in solid blocks four to five feet </span><span>wide. You must always be able to reach the center </span><span>of a wide row comfortably from either side and to get </span><br /><span>between the short rows in a block. You can also </span><span>save space in a small garden by using vertical </span><span>space — growing vining crops up a trellis, for </span><span>example, rather than letting them spread all over the </span><span>ground. Similarly, tomatoes can be staked or caged </span><span>to contain their growth. </span><br /><span>Adding dates and details. Finally, indicate whether </span><span>you're planting from transplants or seeds, and add </span><span>your planting dates for each vegetable; now your </span><br /><span>plan is complete, and you can see exactly what you'll </span><span>be doing come spring. You'll also have compiled a </span><span>good mental library of incidental knowledge about </span><br /><span>plants and how they grow and how your climate </span><span>affects them; this knowledge is going to stand you in </span><span>good stead throughout your growing season. </span><br /><span>Recording the growth of your garden </span><span>If you're serious about gardening, you should keep </span><span>records. Planning your records should be part of </span><span>planning your garden. The better the planning, the </span><span>more efficient use you'll be able to make of your time </span><br /><span>and the more time you will have for enjoying the </span><span>pleasures of your garden — not just keeping up with </span><span>the chores. Build your records the same way you </span><br /><span>build your garden; profit from past mistakes, and </span><span>Incorporate new ideas. </span><br /><span>Start out with a ledger that has sewn-in pages. </span><span>Don't write notes on slips of paper and expect to be </span><span>able to find the one you want when you want It. </span><span>Don't use a three-ring notebook, because if you can </span><span>take a page out you will, and then you'll probably </span><span>lose it. Your first entry m your record of your vegetable </span><br /><span>garden should be the plot you designed when you </span><span>ordered the seeds. Mark this page with a paper clip so </span><span>you can easily find it. </span><br /><span>After the garden plot, you can keep a daily record </span><span>of preparing the soil, planting, weeding, fertilizing, </span><span>growing results (or lack of results); whether the </span><br /><span>harvest of each item was sufficient, too much, or not </span><span>enough; and problems with weeds, bugs, or lack of </span><span>rain. At the end of the growing season you'll have a </span><br /><span>complete record of what you did — and a record </span><span>can be good for the morale. </span><br /><span>Your record will list the plants that did well In </span><span>your garden and those that didn't, and this </span><span>information will give you the basics for planning </span><span>next year's garden. Include in your ledger comments </span><span>about the weather, varieties of plants that were </span><br /><span>productive or flopped, and notes about why you think </span><span>some plants made it and others did not. </span><br /><span>The computerized garden plan </span><span>If all this planning thoroughly intimidates you, </span><br /><span>don't abandon the idea of gardening. It's the age of </span><span>technology, and you can have your entire garden </span><span>planned by a computer. The computer uses some </span><br /><span>basic information that you supply about your </span><span>garden and develops a complete, easy-to-use plan </span><span>that includes all the information the novice </span><br /><span>gardener needs to grow a vegetable garden. The only </span><span>problem involved in having your garden planned by </span><span>a computer is finding out who offers the service. At the </span><br /><span>moment only a few states' Cooperative Extension </span><span>Services and a few seed companies provide </span><span>computerized planning services, but they're </span><br /><span>rapidly becoming popular and more available. Ask </span><span>your local Cooperative Extension Service if they </span><span>offer computerized planning or can put you in touch </span><br /><span>with some organization that does. You may also </span><span>find such services advertised in gardening magazines.<br /><br /></span><span>CONTAINER GARDENING </span><br /><span>In areas where there is little or no space, a well-</span><span>organized container garden can produce substantial </span><span>vegetables. A point to remember about container </span><br /><span>gardening: The small volume of soil in a raised bed will </span><span>warm up faster in spring than the soil in your open </span><span>garden. This gives you a longer growing season, </span><br /><span>because you can start your cool-season crops </span><span>earlier. You can also bring plants inside if the </span><span>temperature takes an unexpected plunge — this </span><span>mobility is an advantage you obviously lack in an open </span><span>garden. </span><br /><span>Plan a container garden the same way as a small </span><span>garden plot, making the best possible use of your </span><span>vertical space. Use a trellis for vining crops and </span><br /><span>stakes and cages for tomatoes or other semi-vining </span><span>crops. If you're planting on a balcony, don't let any </span><span>possible support go to waste. Position climbing plants </span><br /><span>where the railing provides a readymade trellis. </span><span>There are also space-saving techniques unique to </span><span>container gardens. You can use the vertical space of </span><br /><span>a container itself by planting in holes or pockets in </span><span>the sides of the container. Growing some vining plants </span><span>in hanging baskets will save space too, but be sure </span><br /><span>to place hanging baskets where they won't shade </span><span>other plants. When you are growing a container </span><span>garden, always select varieties that are suitable for </span><br /><span>container growing, and remember that containers </span><span>dry out faster than a traditional garden, so you'll need </span><span>to water more often. Plants growing in containers </span><span>are also more affected by changes in temperature; you </span><br /><span>do have the advantage, though, of being able to </span><span>move them to a more protected area or even inside on </span><span>cool nights. </span><br /><span>Essentially, planning a container garden is little </span><span>different from planning an outdoor plot. The main </span><span>difference may be in the varieties you choose — if </span><br /><span>you're planting in a confined space you're going to </span><span>take a special interest in smaller varieties and plants </span><span>with compact, contained growth habits. But basically, </span><span>any plant that will grow in your garden will also </span><span>grow on your balcony or patio.<br /></span><span>Extending your garden indoors </span><span>If you don't have a garden or even a balcony, you </span><br /><span>can still have a container vegetable garden. Don't </span><span>underestimate the number of vegetables that can </span><span>be grown successfully indoors. Near a bright window </span><br /><span>that is not too warm, leafy vegetables, such as </span><span>lettuce, parsley, and chives, will do nicely. Fruiting </span><span>plants are worth a try, but they take a lot more light </span><br /><span>at a higher intensity; unless the window is very bright,</span><span>the plants may grow but not produce. Cherry </span><span>tomatoes in hanging baskets will sometimes grow in </span><br /><span>very bright windows, and sometimes plants can be </span><span>brought in from outdoors and grown on for several </span><span>months. Herbs are rewarding indoor-garden </span><br /><span>plants, and they go a long way in adding your personal </span><span>touch to everyday eating. </span><br /><span>Providing indoor lighting </span><span>If you have lights or if you have a place for putting </span><br /><span>lights, you can grow vegetables indoors without any </span><span>sun at all. Lettuce does beautifully in the basement </span><span>or the attic when grown under fluorescent </span><br /><span>light—usually these spots are not as warm as the </span><span>rest of the house. Lettuce can also be grown in an </span><span>apartment if you can find a spot where the heating is </span><br /><span>not very efficient or if you don't mind wearing a </span><span>sweater. </span><br /><span>Cucumbers will grow beautifully under artificial </span><span>light. But just as long days will prevent flowering, so </span><span>will long periods under artificial light. The best </span><span>thing to do is experiment and find what does well for </span><span>you. A timer can be useful in giving certain plants a </span><span>dark resting period. Given lots of water, watercress </span><span>works almost as well as lettuce under the lights. </span><span>Instead of seeds, you can start with cuttings (the </span><span>bottoms of some of those stems of fresh watercress </span><br /><span>you bought to indulge yourself). </span><span>Various possibilities for using vegetables as </span><br /><span>houseplants are discussed in the description of </span><span>individual vegetables in Part 2.</span>gandhihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15342771507991122518noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5089391135299206410.post-33326469024192557672008-02-23T00:03:00.000-08:002008-02-23T04:34:15.649-08:00THE CONDITIONS THAT ADD UP TO CLIMATE<span>The degree to which the successful growing of each </span><span>vegetable type is dependent on hot and cold weather </span><span>conditions indicates that temperature is the most </span><br /><span>important aspect of climate to consider when you're </span><span>planning your vegetable garden. At this point it's </span><span>helpful to take a good look at how temperature and </span><br /><span>other basic climatic conditions affect your garden. </span><span><br />Rainfall and sunlight also play a most important part in </span><span>how your garden grows, so let's take a look at these </span><span>three elements and how they work with your plants. </span><br /><span>How temperature affects plant growth </span><span>Average day-to-day temperatures play an important </span><span>part in how your vegetables grow. Temperatures, </span><span>both high and low, affect growth, flowering, </span><span>pollination, and the development of fruits. If the </span><br /><span>temperature is too high or too low, leafy crops may </span><span>be forced to flower prematurely without producing </span><span>the desired edible foliage. This early flowering is </span><br /><span>called "going to seed," and affects crops like cabbages </span><span>and lettuce. If the night temperatures get too cool it </span><span>may cause fruiting crops to drop their </span><br /><span>flowers — reducing yields considerably; peppers </span><span>may react this way to cold weather. Generally, the </span><span>ideal temperatures for vegetable plant growth are </span><br /><span>between 40° and 85°F. At warmer temperatures the </span><span>plant's growth will increase, but this growth may </span><span>not be sound structural growth. At lower </span><span>temperatures the plant's growth will slow down or </span><span>stop altogether. </span><br /><span>Vegetables have different temperature </span><span>preferences and tolerances and are usually classified </span><span>as either cool-season crops or warm-season crops. </span><br /><span>Cool-season crops are those like cabbages, lettuce, </span><span>and peas, which must have time to mature before </span><span>the weather gets too warm; otherwise they will wilt, </span><br /><span>die, or go to seed prematurely. These vegetables </span><span>can be started in warm weather only if there will be a </span><span>long enough stretch of cool weather in the fall to </span><br /><span>allow the crop to mature before the first freeze. Warm-</span><span>season crops are those vegetables that can't </span><span>tolerate frost, like peppers, cucumbers, and melons. </span><br /><span>If the weather gets too cool they may not grow at all; </span><span>if they do grow, yields will be reduced. Warm-season </span><span>crops often have larger plants than cool-season </span><br /><span>crops and have larger, deeper root systems that </span><span>enable them to go for relatively longer periods </span><span>without being watered. Even though it is convenient </span><br /><span>to think of vegetables simply as either cool-season </span><span>or warm-season crops, considerable differences can </span><span>exist within each of these two groups. </span><br /><span>The following lists offer a guide to cool- and </span><span>warm-season crops. For specific planting dates for </span><span>each type of vegetable, refer to the chart at the end </span><br /><span>of "Planting Your Garden." </span><span>Cool-season vegetables include: globe </span><br /><span>artichokes, asparagus, beets, broad beans, broccoli, </span><span>Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, </span><span>celeriac, celery, chard, chicory, Chinese cabbage, </span><br /><span>collards, cress, dandelion, endive, cardoon, </span><span>horseradish, Jerusalem artichokes, kale, kohlrabi, </span><span>leeks, lentils, lettuce, onions, parsnips, sweet peas, </span><br /><span>white potatoes, radishes, rhubarb, rutabagas, salsify, </span><span>shallots, sorrel, spinach, and turnips. Cool-season </span><span>herbs include: anise, borage, chive, dill, oregano, </span><br /><span>parsley, peppermint, rosemary, sage, savory, </span><span>spearmint, tarragon, and thyme. </span><br /><span>Included among the warm-season vegetables </span><span>are: dry beans, lima beans, mung beans, snap or </span><span>green beans, chayote, chick peas, corn, </span><span>cucumbers, eggplant, muskmelons, mustard, okra, </span><span>black-eyed peas, peanuts, peppers, sweet </span><br /><span>potatoes, pumpkins, soybeans. New Zealand spinach, </span><span>summer squash, winter squash, tomatoes, and </span><span>watermelons. Warm-season herbs include: basil, </span><br /><span>caraway, chervil, coriander, marjoram, and </span><span>sesame.<br /></span><br /><span>Rainfall: How plants use water </span><br /><span>The amount and timing of the rainfall in your area </span><span>also affects how your vegetables grow. Too much rain </span><span>at one time can wash away seeds or young seedlings </span><span>and damage or even kill mature plants. A constant rain </span><span>when certain plants are flowering can reduce the </span><span>pollination of the flowers and reduce yields. This can </span><span>happen to tomatoes, peppers, beans, eggplant, </span><span>melons, pumpkins, and both summer and winter </span><span>squash. A constant rain can also tempt the honeybees </span><br /><span>to stay in their hives instead of pollinating the </span><span>plants; again, yields will be affected. </span><br /><span>Too little rain over a period of time can slow down </span><span>plant growth and kill young seedlings or even mature </span><span>plants. Limited moisture in the air can also inhibit </span><br /><span>pollination and reduce the yields of some vegetables. </span><span>Too little rain can be more easily remedied than too </span><span>much. If it rains too little, you can water the garden. If </span><br /><span>it rains too much, all you can do is pray. </span><br /><span>Rainfall is probably the easiest climatic condition </span><span>to improve. Farmers have worried and complained </span><span>about the rainfall since the beginning of </span><span>agriculture. If you've got thousands of acres of land </span><span>and no control over the available water it can be </span><span>very frustrating — if not a disaster. Since the home </span><span>garden is usually small and fairly manageable in </span><span>size, you can do something to regulate how much </span><br /><span>water it gets. If you don't get enough rain when you </span><span>need it, you can simply water, and there are many </span><span>different methods you can use. These are described </span><br /><span>in detail in "Caring for Your Garden." Too much rain </span><span>can be more difficult to deal with, and here you </span><span>need to take preventive measures. The better </span><br /><span>drained your soil is, the better it will be able to deal </span><span>with too much water. When you select the site for </span><span>your garden, avoid any area that is low-lying or poorly </span><br /><span>drained. If that's the only site that you have for the </span><span>garden — and you're really serious about </span><span>gardening — you can improve it by installing </span><span>drainage tiles. This can be a costly and complicated </span><span>process, so consider it only as a last resort. </span><br /><span>Light: Your plants can't live without it </span><span>The third major climatic factor is light, and it's an </span><span>important factor to consider when you plan your </span><br /><span>garden. Sunlight — or some type of light — </span><span>provides energy that turns water and carbon </span><span>dioxide into the sugar that plants use for food. Green </span><span>plants use sugar to form new cells, to thicken </span><span>existing cell walls, and to develop flowers and fruit. </span><br /><span>The more intense the light, the more effective it is. </span><span>Light intensity, undiminished by obstructions, is </span><span>greater in the summer than in the winter, and </span><br /><span>greater in areas where the days are sunny and bright </span><span>than in areas where it's cloudy, hazy, or foggy. As a </span><span>rule, the greater the light intensity the greater the </span><br /><span>plants' production of sugar — provided, of course, </span><span>that it's not too hot or too cold and the plants get the </span><span>right amount of water. </span><br /><span>If a plant is going to produce flowers and fruit, it </span><span>must have a store of energy beyond what it needs just </span><span>to grow stems and leaves. If the light is limited, even </span><br /><span>a plant that looks green and healthy may never </span><span>produce flowers or fruit. This can be a problem with </span><span>vegetables like tomatoes, where you want to eat the </span><br /><span>fruit. With lettuce, where you're only interested in </span><span>the leaves, it's not an issue. All the same, all vegetables </span><span>need a certain amount of light in order to grow </span><br /><span>properly, and without it all the watering, weeding, and </span><span>wishing in the world will not make them flourish.<br /></span><span>How day length affects your crops. Many plants, </span><span>including tomatoes and many weeds, are not affected </span><span>by day length — how long it stays light during the </span><br /><span>day. But for many others the length of the day plays a </span><span>big part in regulating when they mature and flower. </span><span>Some plants are long-day plants, which means they </span><br /><span>need 12 or more hours of sunlight daily in order to </span><span>initiate flowering. Radishes and spinach are long-day </span><span>plants, and this is the main reason they go to seed so </span><br /><span>fast in the middle of the summer when the day length </span><span>is more than 12 hours. If you want to grow radishes </span><span>or spinach in midsummer, you have to cover them </span><br /><span>with a light-proof box at about 4 p.m. every </span><span>afternoon to fool them into thinking the day's over. </span><span>Other plants are short-day plants and need less </span><br /><span>than 12 hours of light to initiate flowering; soybeans </span><span>and corn are examples. Many varieties of short-day </span><span>plants have been bred to resist the effects of long days, </span><br /><span>but-most will still flower more quickly when the </span><span>days are shorter.<br /><br /></span><span>How much sunlight is necessary? Vegetables </span><span>grown for their fruits need a minimum of six to eight </span><span>hours of direct light each day. Less light frequently </span><br /><span>means less than a full crop. It's very frustrating to try to </span><span>grow tomatoes, peppers, or eggplants in the shade; </span><span>they'll often produce a good, green plant without </span><br /><span>giving you anything at all in the way of a vegetable. </span><span>Crops that are grown for their roots and leaves, </span><span>however, will give you satisfactory results in light </span><br /><span>shade. </span><br /><span>Root crops, such as beets, carrots, radishes, </span><span>and turnips, store up energy before they flower and </span><span>do rather well in partial shade, especially if you </span><br /><span>don't compare them with the same crop grown in full </span><span>sun. Plants like lettuce and spinach that are grown </span><span>for their leaves are most tolerant of shade; in fact, </span><br /><span>where the sun is very hot and bright they may need </span><span>some shade for protection. Only mushrooms and </span><span>sprouts can be produced without any light at all. </span><br /><span>Making the most of your garden light. If you have a </span><span>choice of where to grow your vegetable garden, don't </span><span>put it in the shade of buildings, trees, or shrubs. The </span><br /><span>accompanying illustration shows how to give plants </span><span>enough light. Remember that as well as shading an </span><span>area, trees and shrubs also have roots that may extend </span><br /><span>underground well beyond the overhead reach of </span><span>their branches. These roots will compete with the </span><span>vegetable plants for nutrients. Stay clear especially </span><br /><span>of walnut trees; they produce iodine, a growth </span><span>retardant that will stunt or kill the vegetable plants </span><span>in your garden. Go out and stand in your garden to see </span><br /><span>just how the light falls. Walk around and find where </span><span>the light fails to penetrate. This knowledge will be very </span><span>useful when you come to planting time. </span><br /><span>Providing shade from too much sun. Most </span><span>vegetables need full sun for best growth, but young or </span><span>newly transplanted plants may need some </span><span>protection from bright, direct sunlight. It's easier for </span><span>you, as a gardener, to provide shade where there's </span><br /><span>too much sun than to brighten up a shady area. You </span><span>can, for instance, plant large, sturdy plants like </span><span>sunflowers or Jerusalem artichokes to provide a </span><span>screen, and you can design your garden so that </span><span>large plants and small ones each get the light they </span><br /><span>need. You can also shade young plants with boxes </span><span>or screens when necessary. However, too little sun is </span><span>far more serious a problem in a garden than too </span><span>much.<br /><br /></span><span>How to make the most of your climate </span><br /><span>Whatever the climate is like where you live, you are </span><span>not entirely at the mercy of the elements. There are </span><span>certain improvements you can make to enable you </span><br /><span>to grow some vegetables that would not normally do </span><span>well in your area. Don't expect miracles — you can </span><span>improve conditions, but you can't change the climate. </span><br /><span>No amount of watering can change a desert into a </span><span>vegetable garden; however, if the average rainfall in </span><span>your area is reasonable, a few hours of watering can </span><br /><span>improve it more than you'd think possible. </span><span>Experiment with the microclimates in your </span><span>neighborhood and your yard; it may be possible to </span><span>increase your growing season and grow vegetables </span><span>that need a longer growing season than your climate </span><br /><span>technically provides. Microclimates may also </span><span>enable you to grow tender perennials that would not </span><span>normally survive the winter in your area. The secret </span><br /><span>is to make the most of the conditions that exist in your </span><span>garden. Experiment — plant a tender vegetable </span><span>close to the south wall of your house; it may not get all </span><br /><span>the sun it needs, but protection from wind and cold </span><span>may help it grow where it wouldn't grow at all in the </span><span>open garden. </span><br /><span>Another way to frustrate the natural temperature </span><span>limitations of your local climate is by using transplants </span><span>Instead of seeds in spring. Transplants are young </span><br /><span>plants started from seed indoors or in a warm place </span><span>and set out in the garden later; this gives you a head </span><span>start on your growing season, but you can't do it with </span><br /><span>all vegetables. Growing transplants is discussed in </span><span>detail in the chapter, "Planting Your Garden," along </span><span>with ways of protecting plants against extremes of </span><br /><span>temperature. </span><br /><span>Other weather conditions can also affect the </span><span>yields of your vegetable crops. Dry, windy days and </span><span>cool night temperatures (a 10°F drop from day </span><span>temperatures) can cause fruiting crops — peppers, for </span><span>instance — to drop their flowers before they're </span><br /><span>pollinated; this means you lose a lot of your crop. You </span><span>can avoid it to some extent by putting up some type </span><span>of windbreak to protect the crops from drying winds. </span><span>It's comforting to remember that although you </span><span>can't make major changes in your climate, you can </span><span>certainly do a lot to help your plants make the most </span><br /><span>of their environment. </span><span><br /><br />Cold frames and hot frames: </span><br /><span>Extending your gardening season </span><br /><span>If you have the space for it, a cold frame — a glass </span><span>enclosed growing area outside — can add an extra </span><span>dimension to your garden. It's an ideal place to start </span><br /><span>hardy annuals and perennials or to put plants in the </span><span>spring to harden them for the rigors of outdoor life. </span><span>When you have started vegetables inside, especially </span><br /><span>the cold-tolerant ones, you can move them to a cold </span><span>frame and give them the benefit of much more light in </span><span>a protected place. And since a cold frame uses solar </span><br /><span>heat, it qualifies as an energy-saving device. The hardy </span><span>herbs, radishes, lettuces, and other greens can be </span><span>grown in a cold frame during a good part of the year, </span><br /><span>even in the North.<br /></span><span>A cold frame, often called a "poor man's </span><span>greenhouse," can be made from scrap lumber and old </span><span>storm windows. It should not be too deep from </span><br /><span>front to back or you'll have trouble getting plants in </span><span>and out. Cold frames capture solar heat, and if they </span><span>slant to the south they can take advantage of the </span><br /><span>greatest amount of sun. </span><br /><span>On the days when the sun is bright you may have </span><span>to provide some shade to keep the plants from </span><span>sunburning, or lift the cold frame windows to keep </span><span>plants from steaming. If the sun is bright enough the </span><span>temperature inside a cold frame can reach 85° to </span><span>95°F when the temperature outside is only 15°F. But on </span><br /><span>cold nights when the temperature drops below </span><span>freezing, a cold frame will need some extra </span><span>protection. An old quilt or blanket under a tarp is a </span><br /><span>good cover. If you have nothing else newspapers will </span><span>do, although they are a bit harder to handle. </span><span>If a cold frame sounds like something you'd like </span><br /><span>to try, look around for some turn-of-the-century </span><span>garden books. These provide excellent step-bystep </span><span>instructions for building and using cold frames </span><br /><span>and offer suggestions on how to do all kinds of </span><span>serious cold-frame growing. </span><br /><span>Hot frames are a bit more challenging than cold </span><span>frames, and the opportunities for frustration are </span><span>multiplied. In hot frames, heat is provided either by </span><br /><span>rotting manure (the classic system) or by electricity </span><span>(the modern way). Decomposing cow, horse, and </span><span>mule manure do not work the same way, and the heat </span><span>of decomposition depends on the age, the kinds, </span><span>and amount of litter present. When you're using </span><span>manure there are no thermostats or controls, </span><span>except the gardener's know-how. Electricity is much </span><span>easier but a lot more expensive than manure, and </span><span>there is still work for the gardener to do. </span><br /><span>If you have a basement window facing south </span><span>with some space outside, you can incorporate it into </span><span>your hot or cold frame. It will also provide a basic" </span><br /><span>course in the management of a greenhouse — the </span><span>next step in gardening addiction. </span>gandhihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15342771507991122518noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5089391135299206410.post-56984920757636306242008-02-22T23:59:00.000-08:002008-02-23T04:35:11.811-08:00CLIMATE: HOW WHERE YOU LIVE AFFECTS WHAT YOU GROW<span> </span><span>Plants, like people, have definite ideas about where </span><span>they like to live. Like people, they flourish in congenial </span><span>conditions and become weak and dispirited if life is </span><br /><span>too difficult for them to cope with. Unlike people, </span><span>however, plants can't take practical steps to </span><span>improve their homesite — they can't up and move, </span><br /><span>and they can't protect themselves against adverse </span><span>conditions. You, the gardener, are largely responsible </span><span>for how well your plants do in the climatic </span><br /><span>conditions you offer them, and you'll save yourself a </span><span>lot of frustration and disappointment if you have </span><span>some understanding of how climate affects your </span><br /><span>garden and if you choose your crops according </span><span>your climate. </span><br /><span>What gardeners mean by a "growing season" </span><span>Throughout this book you'll encounter references </span><span>to the "growing season." The growing season is, </span><br /><span>essentially, the length of time your area can give </span><span>plants the conditions they need to reach maturity and </span><span>produce a crop. The growing season is measured in </span><br /><span>terms of the number of days between the last frost in </span><span>spring and the first frost in fall. In general terms. </span><span>these two dates mark the beginning and end of the </span><br /><span>time in which plants grow from seed to maturity. </span><span>Some areas never have frost at all and use their dry </span><span>season as their "winter." In these areas, however, </span><br /><span>it's still possible to use hypothetical "frost" dates. So </span><span>the length of your growing season is (technically) </span><span>totally dependent on your local climate. When you </span><br /><span>plant a vegetable depends on how well that </span><span>vegetable handles extremes of temperature. </span><br /><span>The dates on which a certain area can expect to </span><span>have the last spring frost and the first fall frost are </span><span>called the "average date of last frost" and the </span><span>"average date of first frost," respectively. They are </span><span>generally used as reference points for planning and </span><span>planting vegetables, but they're not infallible. They do </span><span>however, give you a fairly accurate guide as to </span><span>which vegetables will do best in your area, and they </span><br /><span>are the reference points most generally used in this </span><span>book. As with every other aspect of gardening you </span><span>need to be a little bit flexible. The chart at the end of </span><br /><span>this chapter lists the average dates of first and last </span><span>frosts in major cities throughout the United States. </span><span>If you live within 10 miles of a city listed, you can </span><br /><span>take these dates as accurate; three or four days either </span><span>way is just as acceptable, so don't feel you must do </span><span>all your planting exactly on the one listed day. All these </span><br /><span>dates are average, and the weather can always </span><span>spring surprises. If you live a long way from a listed city </span><span>or are for any reason unsure when to plant, call your </span><br /><span>local Cooperative Extension Service or Weather </span><span>Bureau for advice. The Cooperative Extension </span><span>Service is a joint effort of the United States </span><br /><span>Department of Agriculture and the state land-grant </span><span>colleges and universities. The service's local office is </span><span>an invaluable resource for the gardener, and a list of </span><br /><span>offices throughout the country appears in Part 4. </span><span>Climatic or "hardiness" zones </span><br /><span>The average date of last frost is not the only </span><span>reference point used to determine when to plant a </span><span>garden. At one time or other gardeners have made </span><br /><span>that date dependent on everything from "climatic </span><span>zones" to the phases of the moon. Climatic zones </span><span>are the small maps you find on the back of seed </span><br /><span>packages; they divide the United States into zones </span><span>or areas with fairly similar climates. They're probably </span><span>far more accurate references for planting than </span><br /><span>phases of the moon, but they're very general, and they </span><span>don't tell the whole story. There are many </span><span>incidental — sometimes almost accidental —</span><span>conditions that can cause changes in climate within </span><span>a climatic zone. </span><br /><span>The climatic zone map in the seed catalog or on </span><span>the back of a seed packet can give you a broad idea of </span><span>how a vegetable (or vegetable variety, because </span><span>carrots, tomatoes, and other popular vegetables don't </span><span>by any means conform to a stereotype) will do in </span><span>your area. Climatic zones, however, don't take into </span><br /><span>account the variations that occur within an area </span><span>which, if you go by the book, has the same climatic </span><span>conditions prevailing over many square miles. For </span><br /><span>instance, if the balcony of your downtown apartment </span><span>faces south, you may be able to grow vegetables on </span><span>it that would never survive in a north-facing garden of </span><br /><span>your apartment block. Lots of large buildings, a </span><span>nearby body of water like a lake, or even heavy traffic </span><span>can significantly alter the temperature (and </span><span>pollution level) in a small garden. So, given all these </span><span>imponderables, it's safer to judge how well a </span><br /><span>vegetable will grow by considering its own tolerance </span><span>to certain conditions, rather than by a hard-and-fast </span><span>map reference. </span><br /><span>How 'hardiness'' affects your garden plan </span><span>The way a vegetable type reacts to climatic </span><span>conditions — heat, cold, moisture, and so</span><span>on — determines its "hardiness." It's another way </span><span>of saying how tough it is, but the term hardiness is </span><br /><span>used specifically to indicate how well a plant </span><span>tolerates cold. Before you study how climate affects </span><span>your garden, it's as well to consider which </span><span>hardiness categories certain vegetables fall into. The </span><span>hardiness of each kind determines how that </span><br /><span>particular vegetable will fit into your growing season. </span><br /><span>The vegetables that are grown in a home </span><span>vegetable garden fall into one of four hardiness </span><span>categories: very hardy, hardy, tender, and very </span><span>tender. The date on which you can safely plant each </span><span>vegetable in your garden depends on which </span><br /><span>hardiness category it falls into. </span><br /><span>Very hardy vegetables can tolerate cold and frost </span><span>and can be planted in the garden four to six weeks </span><span>before the average date of last frost. They include </span><br /><span>asparagus, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, </span><span>cauliflower, collards, Chinese cabbage, </span><span>horseradish, Jerusalem artichokes, kale, kohlrabi, </span><span>leeks, lettuce, onions, peas, rhubarb, rutabagas, </span><span>and shallots; and the herbs chives, garlic, mint, </span><br /><span>tarragon and thyme.<br /></span><span>Hardy vegetables can handle a certain amount of </span><span>cold and frost and can be planted two to three weeks </span><span>before the average date of last frost. They include </span><br /><span>beets, cardoon, carrots, celeriac, celery, chard, </span><span>chicory, dandelion, endive, parsnips, Irish </span><span>potatoes, radishes, salsify, turnips; and the herbs </span><br /><span>anise, borage, fennel, marjoram, oregano, parsley, </span><span>rosemary, and savory. </span><br /><span>Tender vegetables don't like cold weather and can </span><span>be planted on the average date of last frost; you will </span><span>need to protect them in some way if there's a late </span><br /><span>frost. These vegetables include most beans, cress, </span><span>mustard, sorrel, corn, tomatoes; the perennial </span><span>artichokes; and the herbs basil, caraway, chervil, </span><span>coriander, dill, sage, and sesame. </span><span>Very tender vegetables will not survive any frost </span><br /><span>and must be planted after the soil has warmed up in </span><span>the spring; they can be planted two to three weeks </span><span>after the average date of last frost. These vegetables </span><br /><span>include lima beans, cucumbers, eggplant, </span><span>muskmelons, okra, peanuts, peppers, pumpkins, </span><span>winter and summer squash, and watermelons. </span><span>Gamblers can take a chance and plant earlier than </span><span>these dates, but usually this gambling will not pay off. </span><span>Even if you beat the odds and your plants are not </span><span>frozen out, they will probably be inhibited by the cold </span><span>soil, and they won't grow any faster than they would </span><span>if you planted them at the proper time. </span>gandhihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15342771507991122518noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5089391135299206410.post-11629949636587682822008-02-22T23:56:00.000-08:002008-02-23T04:37:06.897-08:00THE FIRST DECISION: WHAT TO GROW (AND HOW MUCH)<span>The first step to planning a successful vegetable </span><span>garden is to decide which vegetables to grow. This </span><span>may sound fairly straightforward, but there are a lot </span><span>of factors involved, and you need to answer some </span><span>basic questions: What vegetables do you and your </span><span>family like? Do you want to eat all your crop fresh, or </span><span>store or preserve some of your harvest? Can you </span><span>grow the vegetables you like successfully in your </span><span>climate? How much time and energy can you put </span><span>into your garden? The first factor to consider is </span><span>personal preference. </span><br /><span>What vegetables do you like to eat? The first </span><span>decision to make in choosing what to grow in your </span><span>vegetable garden is simple: What vegetables do </span><span>you and your family like to eat? Perhaps you'd love to </span><span>grow peas because you remember how wonderful </span><span>they tasted fresh out of the garden in your childhood. </span><span>Or maybe your family's crazy about spinach salad or </span><span>broccoli casserole, or you're just plain tired of frozen </span><span>vegetables. </span><span>What are you going to do with it? How do you plan </span><br /><span>to use your vegetables, and what are you going to do </span><span>with the part of your crop that you don't eat as soon </span><span>as it's harvested? Do you want to freeze, can, dry, </span><span>store, or make preserves with some of your crop? </span><span>How much do you need? How you plan to use your </span><span>vegetables directly affects how much of each </span><span>vegetable you want to grow, and will influence your </span><span>decision about the kind of vegetable you're going to </span><span>plant — all carrots aren't alike, and there are </span><span>hundreds of different tomato varieties. </span><span>Can you grow it? Not all vegetables grow </span><span>satisfactorily in all climates. Some vegetables like it</span><span> hot; some refuse to grow in hot weather. Some </span><span>vegetables flourish when it's cold; others just shiver </span><span>and die. Certain plants go from seed to harvest in a </span><span>couple of months and will grow almost anywhere in </span><span>the United States — green beans and some kinds of </span><br /><span>lettuce are among these obliging vegetables. Others </span><span>are very picky and need a long stretch of warm or </span><span>cool weather. You have to take the plant's needs into </span><span>consideration before you can make a decision on </span><span>whether or not it's a practical choice for your home </span><span>garden. </span><br /><span>Do you have room for it? There are plants that are </span><span>rather like large pets — they're very endearing, but </span><span>you just can't live with them because they're too </span><span>big. You want to grow vegetables that will give you a </span><span>reasonable amount of produce in the space that </span><span>you have available. Some vegetables — especially </span><br /><span>some vining crops like pumpkins — need a great </span><span>deal of room and give you only low yields, so they're </span><span>not a practical choice in a small home garden. And if </span><span>you're growing an indoor container garden, you'll do </span><span>fine with cabbages in flowerpots, but there's simply </span><span>no place you're going to put a healthy watermelon </span><span>vine or a Jerusalem artichoke. </span><br /><span>Is it worth the bother? Some vegetables require </span><span>very little nurturing, and you can grow them with a </span><span>minimum of toil. Others require special attention </span><span>and need to be babied. Celery and cauliflower, for </span><span>example, have to be blanched — blanching is a </span><span>process that deprives the plant (or part of the plant) of </span><span>sunlight in order to whiten it and improve its flavor, </span><span>color, or texture. Before choosing a crop that's going </span><span>to need special handling, be sure you really want to </span><span>give it that much attention. Some crops, too, are </span><span>bothered a lot by insects or plant diseases — corn is </span><span>one of them. If you're not willing to deal with these </span><span>problems as they occur, this type of crop is going to </span><span>cause you more disappointment than satisfaction. </span><span>Are you trying to save money? Another factor to </span><span>consider when you're deciding what to plant is the </span><span>practical matter of economics — is the vegetable </span><span>worth growing, or would it be cheaper to buy it? Some </span><span>vegetables are readily available and inexpensive to </span><span>buy, but would produce only low yields from a large </span><span>space if you grew them in your garden. Corn, for </span><span>instance, is inexpensive to buy when it's In season, but </span><span>in your garden it needs a lot of growing space and </span><span>often only gives you one harvestable ear from a whole </span><br /><span>plant. You may decide not to grow corn and settle </span><span>instead for a crop like endive, which is expensive in </span><span>the store but as easy as leaf lettuce to grow. </span><br /><span>Potatoes, too, are readily available and fairly </span><span>inexpensive to buy, but they're space-hungry in the </span><span>garden. You might like to plant an asparagus bed </span><span>instead— it requires a little initial work, but gives </span><span>you a gourmet crop for years afterwards. </span><span>The economy question, however, is not clear</span><span>cut. The fact remains that the vegetables you pick </span><span>fresh from your own garden taste a whole lot better </span><br /><span>than the ones you buy in the store, so saving money </span><span>may not be your prime purpose in growing them. </span><span>You may be perfectly willing to give up half your </span><span>garden (or all your balcony) in order to have a </span><span>couple of ears of wonderful, milky, homegrown corn </span><span>come harvesttime. You may consider the delicious </span><span>flavor of fresh carrots a more Important issue than the </span><span>fact that store-bought ones are inexpensive. The </span><span>only way you can get corn from the garden to the table </span><span>in a matter of minutes is to grow your own, and the </span><span>freshest possible carrots are the ones you pull out of </span><span>the backyard at dinner time. These are judgments </span><span>you make yourself, and they're just as important—if </span><span>not more so — than whether or not a crop is easy to </span><span>grow, economical in its use of space, or will save you </span><span>money. </span><br /><span>How much is enough — or too much? </span><span>Your initial decision about the vegetables you'd </span><span>enjoy growing and eating—and that you think you </span><span>can grow successfully In the conditions you have to </span><span>deal with — is the first step to planning a well-thoughtout, </span><span>productive vegetable garden. But this is the </span><span>point where you discover that you still have very little </span><span>Idea of how much of each vegetable to grow. You </span><span>know you want to eat some of your crop and freeze, </span><span>pickle, or preserve some. But how many seeds should </span><span>you plant to enable you to achieve those ends? </span><span>Again, advance planning can help you avoid getting </span><span>swamped with squash or overrun by radishes — it's </span><span>amazing how energetically your plants will prosper </span><span>under your care and how large a plant a little seed </span><br /><span>will produce.<br /></span><span>Planning for the yield you want </span><span>Some gardeners start off in an orderly manner by </span><span>planting all their vegetables in rows of the same </span><span>length, but space means something different to a </span><span>carrot and a cauliflower. A 10-foot row of broccoli will </span><span>give you a manageable amount of produce; a 10foot </span><span>row of parsley will provide enough for you and </span><span>the entire neighborhood, but it isn't a big problem </span><span>because you can freeze or dry parsley and use it all </span><span>year around. A 10-foot row of radishes, however, </span><span>can be a big mistake — no family can eat all those </span><span>radishes, and they don't store well, so you could </span><span>end up with a lot of wasted radishes. Cucumbers </span><span>sprawl all over the place and need a lot of room; </span><br /><span>carrots are fairly picky about soil conditions, but they </span><span>do stay where you put them. So you have to </span><span>estimate how productive your plants are likely to be. </span><br /><span>The description of individual vegetables in Part 2 </span><span>will help you estimate how many plants to grow. </span><span>Plan how to use your crop </span><span>Garden space, storage space for preserved </span><span>vegetables, storage space for preserving equipment, </span><span>family food preferences, your own preferences, </span><span>your local climate, the energy costs, time involved in </span><span>preserving, and the help available (if any), are all </span><span>points you need to consider when you're deciding </span><span>how much of a certain vegetable you want to grow. </span><br /><span>Before you plant large amounts of a vegetable, plan </span><span>what you're going to do with the vegetables you </span><span>can't eat at once. Check each vegetable's storage </span><span>potential — detailed information on storing and </span><span>preserving Is given in Part 3— and take into account </span><span>whether or not you want to go to the trouble of </span><span>storing or preserving what you don't eat immediately. </span><br /><span>Some people find canning, freezing, or drying their </span><span>home crop a most pleasurable activity. Others don't </span><span>have time or just don't like doing It. So counting </span><span>your chickens before they're hatched is a vital part of </span><span>your planning, and something to keep in mind even </span><span>way back In the winter when you're spending a bleak </span><span>December day studying your seed catalogs. Come </span><span>summer, it will be too late. </span><br /><span>Do you want to freeze, can, dry, pickle, or store? </span><span>There's more than one way to preserve a crop. You </span><span>can freeze, can, dry, or make preserves and pickles. </span><br /><span>You can construct a cold storage area or a root cellar </span><span>in the basement. You can make a storage pit in the </span><span>garden. Some vegetables are very obliging. For </span><span>Instance, extra green beans are no problem because </span><span>you can freeze, can, dry, or pickle them. And some </span><span>root vegetables are best stored in the ground for as </span><span>long as possible — just go out and dig them up </span><span>when you're ready to use them. If you have a big family </span><span>and a lot of garden space, you may need to use </span><br /><span>several different methods to make the most of your </span><span>crop. If you have only a small garden and a small </span><span>family, perhaps freezing alone is all you need to </span><span>consider. Read through the introductory sections on </span><span>each method of preserving in Part 3, so you're </span><span>aware of the space and equipment involved and the </span><span>advantages and disadvantages of each method. </span><br /><span>Consider also the climate where you live and how </span><span>much time you're able and willing to spend on </span><span>preserving. At this point, as in your initial choice of </span><span>which vegetables to grow, personal preferences </span><span>are important. If your family hates turnips and only </span><span>likes carrots raw, it's hardly going to be worthwhile </span><span>to have a root cellar. If you're always on the run, it's </span><span>pure fantasy to imagine yourself making preserves </span><span>come fall. You may also want to investigate sharing the </span><br /><span>crop — and the work. If you live in a community of </span><span>gardeners you may find it possible to get together on </span><span>preserving projects, sharing crops, equipment, and </span><span>labor.</span>gandhihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15342771507991122518noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5089391135299206410.post-88573550117308848262008-02-22T23:52:00.000-08:002008-02-23T04:38:23.309-08:00introduction<span>Any gardener will tell you that gardening is one </span><span>of the most absorbing and rewarding occupations you can undertake. Any gardener will </span><span>also tell you — probably loudly and at length — that </span><span>gardening requires patience, resilience, hard work, </span><span>and a lot of planning. Paperwork is probably the last </span><span>thing you have in mind when you think about </span><span>growing your own vegetables. More likely you see </span><br /><span>yourself leaning contently on your spade as all sorts </span><span>of lush, healthy plants shoot up in front of your eyes. </span><span>The fact of the matter, though, is that gardening </span><span>begins not with seeds and a spade but with paper and a </span><span>pencil. </span><br /><span>A successful vegetable garden begins with a well-</span><span>organized plan of your garden space. Drawing a plan </span><span>may not sound as exciting as getting outdoors and </span><span>planting things. But if you don't spend the necessary </span><span>time planning what to grow in your garden and </span><span>when and where to plant it, you may spend the rest of </span><span>the growing season correcting the mistakes you </span><span>made because you didn't have a plan. It's a lot easier to </span><span>erase a bed when it's a few lines on a piece of paper </span><br /><span>than when it's an expanse of soil and plants. </span><span>Your plan should include not only the types and </span><span>quantities of vegetables you're going to grow and how </span><span>they'll be positioned in your garden, but also </span><span>planting dates and approximate dates of harvest. </span><br /><span>Making a plan may seem like a lot of work to get </span><span>done before you even start gardening, but careful </span><span>planning will help you make the best use of your </span><span>time and available space and will result in bigger, </span><span>higher-quality crops. </span><br /><span>This chapter discusses all the questions you need </span><span>to take into account when you're planning your </span><span>garden — the hows, whats, whys, whens, and </span><span>wherefores. The specific cultural requirements of </span><span>each vegetable are given in detail in future parts. </span>gandhihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15342771507991122518noreply@blogger.com0