Technology in Gardening

SHORT-TERM REFRIGERATOR STORAGE
Most vegetables keep best for a short time when
stored in the refrigerator, at a high humidity and a
constant temperature, just above freezing. A
temperature of about 40°F and a humidity of 95
percent are ideal for storing fresh vegetables, and
these conditions are most likely to be found in the
crisper or hydrator sections of the refrigerator. For
the best results, the crisper should be at least two-
thirds full; if it's empty or almost empty, vegetables
placed in it will dry out.
To keep vegetables moist and fresh, follow these
simple rules of refrigerator storage:
•Store vegetables in the crisper or hydrator, and
keep the crisper full.
•When storing only a few vegetables, put them
into airtight plastic bags or plastic containers,
then into the crisper.
•When storing vegetables in other parts of the
refrigerator, put them into airtight plastic bags or
plastic containers to prevent moisture loss.
Almost all vegetables store well in the
refrigerator, but there are a few that don't. Mature
onions, peanuts (dried), potatoes, sweet potatoes,
pumpkins, winter squash, and such root vegetables as
rutabagas, salsify, and turnips keep better in cold
storage outside the refrigerator, in a basement storage
room or root cellar. This type of storage is discussed
in the next section. Most other vegetables, regardless
of whether they can be kept in cold storage, keep
very well for a short time in the refrigerator.
Preparing vegetables for refrigerator storage
Refrigerator storage is the simplest type of storage
to prepare for — all you have to do is sort the
vegetables, remove damaged or soft ones for
immediate use or discard, and remove as much
garden soil as you can. Some vegetables should be
washed before they're stored; others keep better
when they're not washe^d until you're ready to use
them. The directions below tell you how to prepare
each type of vegetable for refrigerator storage. For
the best results, discard damaged vegetables or use
them immediately; perfect vegetables keep best.
Artichokes
Do not wash until ready to use. Store in plastic bag
up to 2 weeks.
Asparagus
Do not wash until ready to use. Slice off bottoms of
stalks and stand upright in 1 to 2 inches of water. Store
up to 1 week.
Beans, green or snap
Do not wash until ready to use. Store in plastic bag
up to 1 week.
Beans, broad, dry, lima, or mung
Do not shell or wash until ready to use. Store in
plastic bag up to 1 week.
Beets
Cut off tops, leaving about 1 inch of stem. Do not
wash roots until ready to use. Store in plastic bag for 1
to 3 weeks. Wash greens thoroughly in cold water;
drain well and store in plastic bag up to 1 week.
Broccoli
Do not wash until ready to use. Remove any
damaged leaves. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.
Brussels sprouts
Do not wash until ready to use. Remove any
damaged leaves. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.
Cabbage
Do not wash until ready to use. Remove any
damaged leaves. Store in plastic bag for 1 to 2 weeks.
Cardoon
Trim roots and cut off leaves. Wash thoroughly in
cold water; drain well. Store stalks attached to root in
plastic bag for 1 to 2 weeks.
Carrots
Cut off tops. Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain
well. Store in plastic bag for 1 to 3 weeks.
Cauliflower
Do not wash until ready to use. Remove any
damaged leaves. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.
Celeriac
Cut off leaves and root fibers. Do not wash until
ready to use. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.
Celery
Trim roots and wash thoroughly in cold water;
drain well. Cut off leaves and store in plastic bag for 3
to 5 days. Store stalks attached at root in plastic bag
for i to 2 weeks.
Chard
Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Trim any
bad spots on leaves and cut off tough stalks. Store in
plastic bag for 1 to 2 weeks.
Chayote
Do not wash until ready to use. Store in plastic bag
up to 1 week.
Chick peas
Do not shell or wash until ready to use. Store in
plastic bag up to 1 week.
Chicory
Do not wash until ready to use. Store in plastic bag
up to 1 week.
Chinese cabbage
Trim roots and wash thoroughly in cold waters-
drain well. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.
Collards
Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Remove
any damaged leaves. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.
Corn
Do not husk or wash; store in plastic bag for 4 to 8
days. For best flavor, do not store; use immediately.
Cress, garden
Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Store in
plastic bag up to 1 week.
Cucumbers
Wash thoroughly in cold water and pat dry. Do not
cut until ready to use. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.
Dandelion
Cut off roots and remove any damaged leaves.
Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Store in
plastic bag up to 1 week.
Eggplant
Store eggplant at about 50°F, up to 1 week. Do not
refrigerate.
Endive
Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Remove
any damaged leaves. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.
Fennel
Do not separate stalks or wash until ready to use.
Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.
Horseradish
Cut off leaves and trim root; wash thoroughly in
cold water and pat dry. Mix with vinegar and water
according to recipe in "How to Freeze Vegetables."
Store in airtight glass jar in refrigerator fori to2weeks.
For stronger flavor, grate as soon as possible after
picking; store in airtight glass jar.
Jerusalem artichokes
Wash tubers thoroughly in cold water and pat dry.
Store in plastic bag for 7 to 10 days.
Kale
Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Remove
any damaged leaves. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.
Kohlrabi
Cut off leaves and trim root; wash thoroughly in
cold water and pat dry. Store in plastic bag up to 1
week.
Leeks
Cut off roots and all but 2 inches of leaves. Do not
wash until ready to use. Store in plastic bag up to 1
week. Wash very thoroughly in cold water before
using.
Lentils
Do not shell or wash until ready to use. Store in
plastic bag up to 1 week.
Lettuce
Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Store in
plastic bag up to 2 weeks.
Mushrooms
Do not wash until ready to use. Store in open plastic
bag or spread on a tray and cover with damp paper
towels. Store up to 1 week. Wash quickly in cold
water before using; pat dry.
Muskmelon
Do not wash. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week;
cover cut surfaces with plastic wrap.
Mustard
Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Remove
any damaged leaves. Store in plastic bag up to 1 week.
Okra
Do not wash until ready to use. Store in plastic bag
for 7 to 10 days.
Onions^ green
Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Store in
plastic bag up to 1 week. Do not refrigerate mature
onions.
Parsnips
Cut off tops, leaving about 1 inch of stem. Do not
wash until ready to use. Store in plastic bag for 1 to 3
weeks.
Peas, black-eyed
Do not shell or wash until ready to use. Store in
plastic bag up to 1 week.
Peas, shelling
Do not shell or wash until ready to use. Store in
plastic bag up to 1 week. For best flavor, do not store;
use immediately.
Peppers
Do not wash until ready to use. Store in plastic bag
up to 1 week.
Radishes
Cut off tops. Do not wash until ready to use. Store in
plastic bag 1 to 2 weeks.
Rhubarb
Cut off leaves. Wash stalks thoroughly in cold
water; drain well. Store in plastic bag up to 2 weeks.
Salsify
Cut off tops, leaving about 1 inch of stem. Do not
wash roots until ready to use. Store in plastic bag for 1
to 3 weeks.
Shallots
Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Store in
plastic bag up to 1 week.
Sorrel
Wash thoroughly in cold water; drain well. Remove
any damaged leaves. Store leaves or stalks in plastic
bag for i to 2 weeks.
Soybeans
Do not shell or wash until ready to use. Store in
plastic bag up to 1 week.
Spinach, New Zealand spinach
Trim roots and tough stalks. Wash very thoroughly
in cold water; drain well. Store in plastic bag up to 1
week.
Sprouts (sprouted vegetable seed, any type)
Store in plastic bag up to 1 week. Use sprouts as
soon as possible.
Squash, summer
Do not wash until ready to use. Store in plastic bag
up to 1 week.
Tomatoes
Wash thoroughly in cold water; pat dry. Store
uncovered up to 1 week, depending on ripeness. Let
green tomatoes ripen at room temperature, out of
direct sun or in cold storage; then store as above.
Turnips
Cut off tops, leaving about 1 inch of stem on roots.
Do not wash roots until ready to use. Store in plastic
bag for 1 to 3 weeks. Wash greens thoroughly in
cold water; drain well. Store in plastic bag for up to
1week. Do not refrigerate turnip roots; keep in cold
storage.
Watermelon
Wash thoroughly in cold water; pat dry. Store
uncovered up to 1 week; cover cut surfaces with
plastic wrap.

COLD STORAGE: KEEPING VEGETABLES FRESH
ALL WINTER
Cold storage is an old-fashioned but time-tested
method for keeping raw, whole vegetables through
the winter. If you've planted a big vegetable garden
and if you've got (or can construct) the storage space,
storing can be the most practical way to go.
You'll find many vegetables from your garden
well-suited to cold storage, including beets, carrots,
onions, parsnips, potatoes, pumpkins, sweet
potatoes, turnips, winter squash, and many others.
For a complete list, see "Directions for storing
vegetables," later in this chapter. Other vegetables
should be used fresh or preserved. Vegetables that
are not suitable for cold storage include asparagus,
fresh shelling beans, green beans, chayote, corn,
cucumbers, eggplant, fresh greens — beet greens,
chard, cress, dandelion, endive, lettuce, mustard,
and sorrel — fresh lentils, mushrooms, okra, green
onions, fresh peas and chick peas, fresh peanuts,
new potatoes, radishes, rhubarb, fresh soybeans,
spinach and New Zealand spinach, summer
squash, and ripe tomatoes. Shelled dried beans,
lentils, peas and chick peas, soybeans, and dried
peanuts can be kept up to one year in cold storage.
Late-ripening and maturing vegetables are the
best choices for cold storage. Certain varieties take
better to this method than others — late cabbage,
for example. Check seed catalogs and packets before
you buy and plant, and talk to the specialists at your
County or State Extension Service Office. They can
help you decide what vegetables to plant when
you're planning your garden, and what storage
methods work best in your area.
How cold storage works
Like any other method of food preservation, cold
storage keeps food from decomposing by stopping or
slowing down the activity of enzymes, bacteria,
yeasts, and microbes that can eventually spoil food. In
cold storage, this is done by keeping fresh, raw,
whole vegetables at temperatures between 32°F and
40°F. In this range, the food won't freeze, but it stays
cold enough to stop the spoilers. The length of storage
time varies with each vegetable, from a few weeks
for broccoli or cauliflower to four to six months for
potatoes. Dried beans and peas will keep the
longest —10 to 12 months.
One of the advantages of storing your vegetables
is that you don't risk eating unwholesome, spoiled
food. If the food goes bad, you can tell almost
immediately by the way it looks, smells, or feels. But
there's still a lot to learn about storage. For
example, squash have to be kept warmer than do
carrots, so these two vegetables can't be stored In
the same spot. Or, if you plan to keep cabbages or
turnips, don't store them indoors in the basement;
you'll soon find their strong, distinctive odor
penetrating up into the house. And, if you live in a
climate where heavy snow is common in winter,
outdoor storage of vegetables in mounds or barrels
isn't going to be practical for you, because deep snow
will make them inaccessible In winter.
Although storing vegetables may sound easy, it's
a lot more complex than at first meets the eye.
Although you don't have to do any chopping,
blanching, or processing of vegetables to be stored,
each vegetable does have to be handled in a special
manner. Perhaps the trickiest part of all is that you've
got to keep a weather eye on your stored food.
Since the temperature of cold storage depends on the
temperature outdoors, you may sometimes have to
move or change the location of stored vegetables,
open windows or vents, or adjust the humidity
level. When storing food indoors, keep a
thermometer as well as a humidity gauge in the
storage area so you can accurately monitor
temperature and moisture conditions.
Because it's harder to control the temperature of
stored food, spoilage can happen more easily than
with any other form of food preservation. Routine
checks for spoilage will help you prevent food losses
when storing vegetables indoors — but, once you
open up an outdoor mound or barrel, you'll have to
empty it of all the stored vegetables at once.
Storage methods for vegetables
Before the days of refrigerators, freezers, and
supermarkets, most families depended on cold
storage to keep a supply of vegetables all year long.
In colonial times, a certain portion of every harvest
was kept in cool caves or in straw-lined pits that
could withstand freezing temperatures. In later times,
most houses were built to include root cellars or
cold, damp basements intended as storage areas.
These chilly spots were perfect for keeping root
vegetables, celery, pumpkin, squash, potatoes, arid
other vegetables through the cold months.
Compared to houses of a century ago, our
modern dwellings are snug, warm, and dry. Today,
very few homes offer the cool, damp basement
corners, outdoor sheds, or attics that formerly served
as food storage areas. That means you'll have to
plan, and perhaps construct, one or more special
spots for cold storage of your garden's bounty —
particularly if you plan to store a variety of
vegetables.
In milder climates, where fros^t is infrequent and
doesn't penetrate too deeply, vegetables can be kept
in specially prepared outdoor locations. In colder
areas, you'll have to store the vegetables indoors as an
extra precaution against freezing. In the directions
for storing vegetables that follow, you'll find the
proper storage method for each vegetable.
Four vegetable groups
Where and how you store each vegetable will
depend on how much or how little cold it can take and
the amount of humidity it needs to keep fresh.
Vegetables to be stored fall into four groups: cold-
moist, cool-moist, cold-dry, and cool-dry.
Vegetables that should be cold-moist stored
make up the largest group, and include beets,
broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots,
cauliflower, celery, turnips, and many others. These
vegetables require the coldest storage
temperatures — 32°F — and the highest
humidity — 95 percent — of all vegetables that can
be stored.
The second group of vegetables requires cool-
moist: melons, peppers, potatoes, and green
tomatoes. These vegetables can be kept at
temperatures ranging from 38°F to 60°F and at
humidity levels of 80 to 90 percent.
Dry onions and shallots require cold-dry storage
temperatures of 32°F to 35°F and humidity of 60 to 75
percent.
The cool-dry group is composed of pumpkin and
winter squash, dried peas and beans, and live seeds,
all of which must be stored at temperatures of
50°F to 55''F and at a humidity of 60 to 70 percent.
Vegetables in the cold-moist and cool-moist
groups can be stored outdoors in a mound or barrel,
or indoors in a specially insulated basement storage
room that is partitioned off from the central heating
area or a root cellar. Vegetables in the cold-dry and
cool-dry groups can be stored indoors in a cool area
of a heated basement, but they must be kept away
from water that might condense and drip down
from overhead pipes. Cold-dry storage can also be
provided by a dry shed or attic, window wells, or
cellar stair storage.
The accompanying chart shows how vegetables
in each of these four groups should be stored — at
what temperature, at what humidity, and for how
long. Any one of the storage methods discussed in this
chapter can be used if it supplies the necessary
conditions of temperature and humidity. For some
vegetables in the cool-moist group, the refrigerator
is an ideal storage area. And when cold storage
doesn't add significantly to the length of time you
can keep a vegetable from the cold-moist group, you
may prefer just to refrigerate your crop, as detailed
above.
Mound storage
When planning mound storage, first find a spot in
your garden where the mound will have good
drainage. Dig a shallow, dish-shaped hole six to
eight inches deep, and line it with straw or leaves.
Spread the straw bed with some metal screening (to
keep 6ut burrowing animals), and then stack your
vegetables in a cone on the prepared bed. Wrap the
individual pieces and separate the layers of food with
packing material.
Making a cone or volcano shape, cover the
mound with more straw or leaves, then shovel on
three or four inches of dirt. Cover all but the top of
the cone. Pack the dirt firmly with the back of your
shovel. Pile on another thick (six- to eight-inch)
layer of straw, but don't cover the top of the cone — it
must be left open for ventilation. Put a piece of
board on top of each mound to protect it from the
weather. If necessary, weight the board with a
stone or a brick to keep it in place. Finally, dig a
shallow drainage ditch around the mound.
You can store several kinds of vegetables in the
same mound, if they're separated by packing
material — that way you can enjoy a bushel of
mixed vegetables instead of all carrots or all potatoes.
However, several small mounds are more practical
than one large mound. Once you've opened a mound,
it can't be repacked again—which means you'd
have to take out all the vegetables at one time. With
several smaller mounds, you can bring manageable
portions of vegetables into the house, without having
to disturb the whole store. The U.S. Department of
Agriculture recommends changing the location of the
pits every year to avoid contamination.
Cabbage mound storage
If you want to be able to remove cabbages a few at a
time, you can store heads in a mound that's
rectangular rather than volcano-shaped. Prepare a
long, narrow, rectangular mound with the same base
of straw or leaves, metal screening, and more straw,
as directed for mound storage. Then put in the
individual heads of cabbage head-down in one
layer, more straw, and a final layer of dirt. Dig a small
trench along each long side of the mound to drain
off water. With this type of mound, you can remove
just a few cabbages at a time, because there's only
one layer of heads.
Barrel storage
Choose a well-drained spot in your garden for
barrel storage. Dig out a hole deep enough to cradle
the barrel on its side — the barrel doesn't have to be
completely buried. Line the hole with straw, and nest
the barrel into it. Pack in the vegetables, cover the
barrel opening with metal screening or tight-fitting
wood covers to keep out rodents, then cover the
whole barrel with several insulating layers of straw and
dirt. Be sure to mark the location of the barrel
mouth, so you can find it easily when you're ready to
dig out the vegetables.
Frame storage
Frame storage is a special method that works best
for celery and celerylike vegetables, such as Chinese
cabbage and fennel. In this little underground lean-
to, you store the celery bunches upright with their
roots in the ground. Dig a trench about one foot
deep, two feet wide, and as long as needed to hold the
celery you've grown. Harvest the celery, leaving the
roots intact, and stand the bunches up — closely
together— in the trench. Water the roots, and
leave the trench open until the celery tops are dry.
Build a lean-to over the celery with the boards — set
a wide board on edge along one side of the trenched
celery, and prop another wide board against this
support to make a slanted roof over the bunches of
celery. Finally, cover the lean-to with straw and
then with dirt.
INDOOR STORAGE — THE ROOT CELLAR
If you live in a region where freezing or very snowy
weather is common in winter, you'll need to store
your vegetables indoors. Your house (or possibly
another building on your property) may offer several
of the storage areas described in this section, or you
may decide to build a basement cold storage room. If
you live in an older house, there may be a fruit cellar
or cold corner that could easily be closed off to stay
cold and moist. Or, your newer house may have a
crawl space that's cold and damp. However it's done,
indoor storage calls for a bit more upkeep than
outdoor storage, since you've got to keep an eye on
the temperature, the ventilation, and the humidity
to which your vegetables are exposed, as well as make
routine checks for spoilage.
Check around your property to see if it offers
storage areas like those described in this section. Test
the temperature and humidity in any area you're
considering before you use it for storing your
vegetables. The ideal time to plan your storage area
is in winter before you plant.
Temperature. You'll need to put up a reliable
indoor/outdoor thermometer in your storage area.
Most vegetables are stored at temperatures below
40°F but above freezing. However, there are some
exceptions; watery vegetables such as tomatoes,
green peppers, winter squash, and pumpkins, must
all be cool-stored at temperatures above 40°F to keep
from spoiling.
Humidity. Unless extra humidity is provided,
your cold-moist and cool-moist stored vegetables will
dry up and shrivel when stored indoors. Keep a
humidity gauge in your storage area to be sure the
vegetables are getting neither too much nor too
little humidity, and make any necessary adjustments
from time to time. You don't need fancy equipment
or techniques for maintaining the right humidity. You
might put pans of water or a tub of dampened sand
on the floor; cover the floor with damp straw, sand, or
sawdust; use damp sand or sawdust for packing the
food; or line packing boxes with plastic bags.
Ventilation. You need ventilation in your storage
area in case the indoor temperature grows too warm
for the vegetables you're keeping. If that should
happen, you must let in some cold winter air to cool
things off. Good ventilation can be provided by a
vent to the outside, a window, or a door. Although it's
simple enough to open a window or a door to lower
the temperature of your storage place, you must also
protect your stored vegetables from contact with
the air. Oxygen reacts with other substances in food to
cause changes that will spoil the food. Since whole
vegetables "breathe," they must be wrapped or
packed in materials that will prevent oxidation. You
must also keep the vegetables separate from one
another so any spoilage won't be able to spread. To do
this, layer the vegetables with clean, dry leaves,
sand, moss, or dirt, or wrap each vegetable
individually in paper.
Cellar steps storage
If your house has an outside basement entrance
with stairs going down, you can use it as a storage
area — the stairs become your shelves. You'll need
a door at the top of the stairs, and probably another
door at the bottom of the stairs, over the existing
house door, to hold in the basement's heat. Which
door you use as access depends on the climate. In a
vegetables. In colder climates, you may need to go
through the basement. Cover the outside door to
keep your vegetables from freezing.
Use a thermometer to check the temperature on
each step and put barrels or boxes of food where the
temperature is right for each item. It's a good idea
to set a wooden plank as insulation on each step. If you
need to add more humidity, set a bucket of damp
sand on one of the steps.
Window well storage
Window wells can make nifty little storage areas, if
they don't collect and hold water. Line the wells with
straw or bedding, put in the vegetables and add
packing material, if necessary. Then cover the wells
with boards or more bedding. If the windows open
inward, you may be able to take vegetables out from
the basement, without ever having to go outside
and dig!
Dry shed or attic storage
Dry shed or attic storage provides cold, dry
storage — just right for onions, shallots, pumpkins,
and winter squash. By "dry shed," we mean any
location that offers constant low temperatures and
low humidity. This could be a garage, an unheated
breezeway, a shed or storage building, even an
unused doghouse, (if your garage or storage shed is
fragrant with oil and gasoline, it's no good for storing
vegetables. Some vegetables will absorb the oil and
gasoline fumes and odors.) In milder winter zones,
shelves in a storage shed or boxes on the floor may
work well. If you live in a very cold region, you may
have to insulate the corner of the shed to keep the
vegetables from freezing.
Attic storage is convenient only if temperatures
can be held somewhat constant. Since many attics will
warm up quickly on a sunny day, you'll have to
construct a special little storage area In it. Choose a
spot that's well-insulated and near ventilation in the
coldest part of the attic. Partition and roof it off from
the rest of the attic, and use it for storing winter
squash and onions.
Basement storage room
You can go all out and build a cold storage room in
your basement. What you'll be doing is creating a
separate little room, insulated from heat. You can
get plans for constructing indoor cold storage rooms
from agricultural extension offices, lumberyards,
or gardening magazines.
Basically, you'll have to partition off an area that
has no heating pipes or ducts. For ventilation, there
should be a window — two or more windows if the
room is partitioned. For air circulation, plan to have
removable slatted flooring and shelves. Slatted
flooring makes it easier to use dampened sawdust or
other wet material to raise the humidity.
BASIC EQUIPMENT FOR STORING VEGETABLES
In addition to the proper indoor or outdoor storage
areas, you'll need the following equipment to store
your vegetables:
• Containers, such as wooden boxes, crates,
barrels, or plastic garbage bags — cardboard
boxes are only suitable for storing vegetables that
need dry conditions.
•Newspapers or other paper for wrapping
vegetables.
•Packing and insulating materials, such as sand,
sawdust, peat, sphagnum moss, leaves, straw, or
wood shavings.
•An indoor/outdoor thermometer for monitoring
temperatures in an indoor storage area.
•A humidity gauge for monitoring the humidity in
an indoor storage area.
•Metal screening for use as protection against
contamination by rodents in outdoor storage
areas.
•Wood slats for constructing lean-to and frames.
•A shovel for digging out mound, frame, or barrel
storage areas.
BASIC COLD-STORING TECHNIQUES
Your vegetables must be harvested at just the right
moment so they'll take well to storing and won't decay
before you're ready to use them. Damaged or
imperfect vegetables will spoil quickly, so you must be
very careful when handling them prior to storing.
Never store bruised or damaged vegetables; they can
cause spoilage of your whole crop. It's usually
better to clean off but not wash vegetables before
storing, because washing can lead to the
development of soft rot.
With methods of food preservation, you can
process the food and then forget about it until you're
ready to use it. Not so with storage. Since the
temperature outdoors is the major factor affecting the.
storage of your vegetables, you have to be
constantly alert to the changes in weather. If it turns
suddenly colder, warmer, or wetter, you must
make whatever adjustments are needed to maintain
the proper conditions in your storage area. You
must also make regular spoilage checks of the boxes,
bags, or bins of vegetables stored indoors.
Handling
Harvest vegetables as late as possible. For many
vegetables, this means plant later than usual in order
to get a late harvest. You should wait until the first
frost warnings to harvest. Carrots, parsnips, potatoes,
and turnips, for example, can stay in the ground
even after the first frost or two, if the ground is well
mulched.
Pick only perfect vegetables for cold storage and
handle them carefully to avoid bruising. One bad item
can spread decay to others and ruin the whole box,
barrel, or mound.
Harvest on a dry day, if possible, and let the
vegetables dry on the ground, in the sun, for several
hours before packing them away. Onions often
need several days of drying; potatoes, however,
shouldn't be exposed to hot sun or strong wind.
Produce should be cool when packed.
Wash vegetables, if you must, but most experts
agree that all you really need to do is brush off excess
dirt. The vegetables should be dry before you pack
them.
Curing
Potatoes, pumpkins, and most types of winter
squash have to be cured before storing. Curing is
holding the vegetables at a warm temperature —
70°F to 85°F — in a dark, humid place for about 10
days. Curing hardens the skins and rinds and helps
heal surface cuts, reducing mold and rot damage.
Packing
Some vegetables — potatoes, onions, and
squash — can go from the garden right into boxes,
barrels, plastic bags, or other containers. Root
vegetables — such as beets, carrots, turnips, and
parsnips — are better packed in some material such
as newspaper that will insulate them, slow down their
breathing, and keep them from touching one
another, so decay can't spread from root to root.
You can wrap the vegetables separately in
newspaper, then pack them loosely in boxes, barrels,
or plastic bags. If you use plastic bags, poke a few
holes in the bags to allow some ventilation. Other
packing materials include damp or dry sand,
sawdust, peat, sphagnum moss, leaves, straw, or
wood shavings. Line the container with a layer of
packing wood material, then arrange a layer of
vegetables, leave space around each vegetable for
packing material. Fill in around each vegetable and
then again on top with a layer of packing material.
Repeat these steps until the container is full. Be
careful to leave enough room for examining the
produce at the bottom of the container when
you're making routine spoilage checks.
Moist sand is sometimes suggested for packing
certain vegetables. You'll know the sand is just the
right consistency if it feels cold and falls apart in
your hand when squeezed, leaving just a few particles
sticking to your skin.
DIRECTIONS FOR COLD-STORING VEGETABLES
If you plan to store a variety of vegetables, you'll
probably have to arrange several different kinds of
storage. The following directions for storing
vegetables tell you which methods are best suited to
each vegetable. Choose the one that works best for
your climate and your available space.
Artichokes
Cut the fleshy, tight buds before they open.
Artichokes are best stored in the refrigerator, but they
can be kept in cold storage. Store on shelves or
loosely packed in open boxes at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to
95 percent humidity (moist), with some air
circulation. Store in a basement storage room or root
cellar up to 1 month.
Beans, dried (broad, dry, or lima)
Dried beans won't freeze, and will store well when
properly dried and packaged. Dry them according to
the instructions in "How to Dry Vegetables." Then
store them at 32°F to 50°F and 65 to 70 percent humidity
(dry), with some air circulation. Store in a dry shed
or attic for 10 to 12 months.
Beets
Choose late-maturing varieties and leave them in
the ground until after the first few frosts. Dig them up
when the soil is dry, and leave them on the ground
for 3 or 4 hours. Remove the tops, leaving about 1/2
inch of the crowns. Don't remove the roots. Pack in
packing material in wooden boxes, barrels, plastic
bags with air holes, or in a mound or buried barrel.
Store at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity
(moist), with just a little air circulation. Beets will
freeze at 30°F. Store in a basement storage room, root
cellar, mound, or buried barrel for 5 to 6 months.
Broccoli
Harvest in late fall. Remove the root, but leave the
leaves on as protection. Pack in boxes; separate and
cover the stalks with moist sand. Store at 32°F to 34°F
and 90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with some air
circulation. Broccoli will freeze at about 30°F. Store
in a basement storage room or root cellar up to 3
weeks.
Brussels sprouts
Leave Brussels sprouts in the ground and mulch
them heavily to protect the sprouts. Brussels sprouts
plants can be stored in a frame, like celery, or in a
mound, like cabbage, but often the size of the plants
makes this impractical. Store Brussels sprouts
plants at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity
(moist), with just a little air circulation. Store in a
basement storage room or root cellar up to 1 month.
Cabbage
Choose late-maturing varieties. For storage in a
root cellar, remove the roots, then cover the heads in
moist dirt or sand in a bin. For outdoor mound
storage, don't remove the stem or root. Place the
cabbages head-down, pack straw between the
heads, then cover with a final layer of dirt. Store at 32°F
to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with
just a little air circulation. Cabbage will freeze at 30°F.
Store in a mound, buried barrel, or root cellar for 3
to 4 months. Do not store cabbages in a basement
storage room; their strong odor can escape up into
the house.
Cardoon
Harvest the plants with roots intact. Don't remove
the tops. Set the roots firmly in moist sand or dirt so
the plants stand upright, and construct a frame over
the plants, as detailed earlier in this chapter. Keep the
roots moist during storage, but don't water the
leaves of the plants. Store at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95
percent humidity (moist), with just a little air
circulation. Cardoon will freeze at just under 32°F.
Store in a basement storage room, outside frame,
or root cellar for 2 to 3 months.
Carrots
Choose late-maturing varieties, and leave them in
the ground until after the first couple of frosts. After
harvesting, leave them on the ground for 3 to 4
hours. Remove the tops, leaving about 1/2 inch of the
crown. Don't remove the roots. Pack in packing
material in wooden boxes, barrels, plastic bags with
air holes, or bury in a mound. Store at 32°F to 34°F
and 90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with just a little
air circulation. Carrots will freeze at about 30°F.
Store in a basement storage room, mound, buried
barrel, or root cellar 4 to 5 months.
Cauliflower
Harvest in late fall. Remove the root, but leave on
the outer leaves as protection. Pack in boxes; separate
and cover the heads with moist sand. Store at 32°F to
34°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with a little
air circulation. Cauliflower will freeze at about 30°F.
Store in a basement storage room or root cellar for 2 to
3 weeks.
Celeriac
Dig up the roots when the soil is dry, and leave them
on the ground for 3 or4 hours. Cut off the tops, leaving
2 or 3 inches of the crown; don't remove the root
fibers. Pack in wooden boxes, barrels, or plastic bags
with air holes, or in a mound or buried barrel. Store
at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity (moist),
with just a little air circulation. Celeriac will freeze at
just under 32°F. Store in a basement storage room,
buried barrel,mound,or root cellar for 2 to3 months.
Celery
Harvest the plants with roots intact. Don't remove
the tops. Set the roots firmly in moist sand or dirt so
the celery stands upright, and construct a frame
over the plants, as detailed earlier in this chapter.
Keep the roots moist during storage, but don't
water the leaves of the plants. Store at 32°F to 34°F and
90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with just a little air
circulation. Celery will freeze at just under 32°F. Store
in a basement storage room, outside frame, or root
cellar for 2 to 3 months.
Chick peas^ dried
Dried chick peas won't freeze, and will store well
when properly dried and packaged. Dry them
according to the instructions in "How to Dry
Vegetables." Then store them at 32°F to 50°F and 65 to
70 percent humidity (dry), with some air circulation.
Store in a dry shed or attic for 10 to 12 months.
Chicory
Harvest the plants with the roots intact, and don't
trim the leaves. Tie all the leaves together, then stand
the plants upright in moist sand or dirt and
construct a frame over the plants, as detailed earlier in
this chapter. Store at 32°F to 34°F and 85 to 90
percent humidity (moderately moist), with just a little
air circulation. Chicory will freeze at just under
32°F. Store in a basement storage room, outside
frame, or root cellar for 2 to 3 months.
To store the roots only, dig them up when the soil
is dry, and leave them on the ground for 3 to 4 hours.
Remove the tops, leaving about 1/2 inch of the
crowns. Pack in packing material in wooden boxes,
barrels, plastic bags with air holes, or in a mound or
buried barrel. Store at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent
humidity (moist), with just a little air circulation.
Chicory roots freeze at about 30°F. Store in a basement
storage room, mound, buried barrel, or root cellar
for 10 to 12 months.
Chinese cabbage
Harvest the plant with roots intact. Don't remove
the tops. Set the roots firmly in moist dirt so the
cabbage stands upright and construct a frame over
the plants, as detailed earlier in this chapter. Keep
roots moist during storage but don't water the
leaves of the plants. Store at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95
percent humidity (moist), with just a little air
circulation. Chinese cabbage will freeze at just under
32°F. Store in a basement storage room, outside
frame, or root cellar for 2 to 3 months.
Fennel
Harvest the plants with roots intact. Don't remove
the tops. Set the roots firmly in moist sand or dirt so
the plants stand upright, and construct a frame over
the plants, as detailed earlier in this chapter. Keep the
roots moist during storage, but don't water the
leaves of the plants. Store at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95
percent humidity (moist), with just a little air
circulation. Fennel will freeze at just under 32°F.
Store in a basement storage room, outside frame,
or root cellar for 2 to 3 months.
Horseradish
Choose late-maturing plants and leave them In the
ground until after the first few frosts. Dig them up
when the soil is dry, and leave them on the ground
for 3 or4 hours. Remove tops, leaving about 1/2 inch of
the crown. Don't remove the roots. Pack in packing
material in wooden boxes, barrels, plastic bags with
air holes, or in a mound or buried barrel. Store at
32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity (moist),
with a little air circulation. Horseradish freezes at
about 30°F. Store in a basement storage room,
mound, buried barrel, or root cellar for 10 to 12
months.
Greens (collards kale and turnip)
Harvest the plant with roots intact. Don't remove
the tops. Set the roots firmly in moist dirt so it
stands upright. Keep the roots moist during
storage, but don't water the leaves of the plant. Store
at 32''F to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity
(moist), with some air circulation. Greens freeze at
just below 32°F. Store in a frame for 2 to 3 weeks.
jerusalem artichokes
Dig the roots when the soil is dry, and leave them on
the ground for 3 or 4 hours. Remove the tops, leaving
about 1/2 inch of the crowns. Then pack into boxes
or other well-ventilated containers, but without
additional packing material. Store at 32°F to 34°F and
90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with little air
circulation. Jerusalem artichokes will freeze at just
below 31°F. Store in a basement storage room or root
cellar for 2 to 5 months.
Kohlrabi
Choose late-maturing varieties and leave in the
ground until after the first few frosts. Dig when the soil
is dry, and leave on the ground for 3 or 4 hours.
Remove the tops, leaving about 1/2 inch of the crown.
Don't remove the roots. Pack in packing material in
wooden boxes, barrels, plastic bags with air holes, or
in a mound or buried barrel. Store at 32°F to 34°F at
90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with just a little air
circulation. Kohlrabi freezes at 30°F. Store in a
basement storage room, mound, buried barrel, or
root cellar for 1 to 2 months.
Leeks
Harvest with roots intact. Don't remove the tops.
Set the roots firmly in moist dirt so the leeks stand
upright. Keep the roots moist during storage, but
don't water the leaves of the plant. Store at 32°F to 34''F
and 90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with some air
circulation. Leeks freeze at just below 32''F. Store in a
basement storage room, outside frame, or root
cellar for 2 to 3 months.
Lentils, dried
Dried lentils won't freeze and will store well when
properly dried and packaged. Dry them according to
the instructions in "How to Dry Vegetables." Then
store them at 32°F to 50°F and 65 to 70 percent humidity
(dry), with some air circulation. Store In a dry shed
or attic for 10 to 12 months.
Muskmelon
Harvest melons slightly immature; they will
continue to ripen during storage. Store at 45°F to 50°F
and 85 to 90 percent humidity (moderately moist),
with some air circulation. Pile or stack melons loosely,
with no packing material, on shelves in a basement
storage room or root cellar for 2 to 3 weeks.
Onions
Dig up mature onion bulbs and leave them on the
ground to dry completely, usually about a week. Cut
off the tops, leaving 1/2 inch of stem. Pack the bulbs
loosely, without any packing material, in well-
ventilated containers. If you like, braid the tops
together and hang the onions from hooks in a cold
storage area. Store at 32°F to 34°F and 60 to 75
percent humidity (dry), with some air circulation.
Onions freeze at just under 31°F. Store in a dry shed
or attic for 6 to 7 months.
Parsnips
Choose late-maturing varieties and leave them in
the ground until after the first few frosts. Dig them up
when the soil is dry, and leave them on the ground
for 3 or 4 hours. Remove the tops, leaving about 1/2
inch of the crown. Don't remove the roots. Pack in
packing material in wooden boxes, barrels, plastic
bags with air holes, or in a mound or buried barrel.
Store at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity
(moist), with a little air circulation. Parsnips freeze
at 30°F. Store in a basement storage room, mound,
buried barrel, or root cellar for 2 to 6 months.
Peanuts, dried
Dried peanuts won't freeze, and will store well for
10 to 12 months when properly dried and packaged.
Dry them according to the instructions in "How to
Dry Vegetables." Then store them at 32°F to 50°F and
65 to 70 percent humidity (dry), in a dry shed or
attic.
Peas, dried
(shelling, black-eyed)
Dried peas won't freeze, and will store well when
properly dried and packaged. Dry them according to
the instructions in "How to Dry Vegetables." Then
store them at 32°F to 50°F and 65 to 70 percent humidity
(dry), with some air circulation. Store in a dry shed
or attic for 10 to 12 months.
Peppers
Harvest before the first frost. Choose only the
firmest peppers for storing, since they're easily
damaged. Pack into plastic bags punched with air
holes; then place in boxes. Peppers must be
monitored very carefully during storage to be sure
they don't become too moist or too cold. Store at 45°F
to 50°F and 85 to 95 percent humidity (moderately
moist), with a little air circulation. Peppers will freeze
at just below 31°F. Store in a basement storage room
or root cellar for 2 to 3 weeks.
Potatoes
Choose late-maturing varieties. Early potatoes are
difficult to keep in cold storage. Dig the potatoes
when the soil is dry, and leave them on the ground
for 3 or 4 hours. Avoid sun and wind damage. Cure
by storing them at regular basement temperatures —
60°F to 65°F—in moist air for 10 days. Then pack
them into boxes or other well-ventilated containers,
but without additional packing material. Store at
38°F to40°F, and 85 to 90 percent humidity (moderately
moist), with a little air circulation. Potatoes will
freeze at just below 31°F. Store in a basement storage
room or root cellar for 4 to 6 months.
Pumpkins
Harvest just before the first frost, leaving an inch or
so of stem. Cure at 80°F to 85°F for 10 days, or for 2 to 3
weeks at slightly lower temperatures. After curing,
move them to a cooler spot for long-term storage.
Store at 50°F to 55°F and 60 to 75 percent humidity
(dry), with a little air circulation. Pumpkins will freeze
at just above 30°F. Store on shelves in a basement
storage room, dry shed, or attic for 3 to 6 months.
Rutabagas
Choose late-maturing varieties and leave them in
the ground until after the first few frosts. Dig them
up when the soil is dry, and leave them on the ground
for 3 or 4 hours. Remove the tops, leaving about 1/2
inch of the crowns. Don't remove the roots. Pack in
packing material in wooden boxes, barrels, or
plastic bags with air holes, or in a mound or buried
barrel. Store at 32°F to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent
humidity (moist), with a little air circulation.
Rutabagas will freeze at about 30°F. Store in a
basement storage room, mound, buried barrel, or
root cellar for 2 to 4 months.
Salsify
Harvest in late season. Dig them up when the soil is
dry, and leave them on the ground for 3 or 4 hours.
Remove the tops, leaving about 1/2 inch of the
crowns. Don't remove the roots. Pack in packing
material in wooden boxes, barrels, plastic bags with
air holes, or in a mound or buried barrel. Store at 32°F
to 34°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with a
little air circulation. Salsify freezes at about 30°F. Store
in a basement storage room, mound, buried barrel,
or root cellar for 2 to 4 months.

Seed live
Most gardeners buy seeds to plant, but you may
want to harvest seeds to sprout when your vegetables
mature. Cabbage and lettuce seeds, for instance,
can both be sprouted, as detailed in "How to Sprout
Vegetables." Leave the seeds on the plant until
they're dry and fully mature; then harvest them. Store
dried seeds in airtight plastic bags in a metal
container, or in airtight glass jars; keep glass jars in a
bag or wrap in newspaper to keep light from
reaching the seeds. Store at 32°F to 40°F and 65 to 70
percent humidity (dry). Store in a dry shed or attic
for 10 to 12 months.
Shallots
Dig up mature bulbs and leave them on the ground
to dry completely, usually about a week. Cut off the
tops, leaving about 1/2 inch of stem. Pack the bulbs
loosely, without any packing materials, in well-
ventilated containers. Store at 32°F to 34°F and 60 to
75 percent humidity (dry), with some air Circulation.
Shallots freeze at just under 31°F. Store in a dry shed
or attic for 2 to 8 months.
Soybeans^ dried
Dried soybeans won't freeze, and will store well
when properly dried and packaged. Dry them
according to the instructions in "How to Dry
Vegetables." Then store them at 32°F to 50°F and 65 to
70 percent humidity (dry), with some air circulation.
Store in a dry shed or attic for 10 to 12 months.
Squashy winter
Harvest just before the first frost, leaving on an inch
or so of stem. Cure at 80°F to 85°F for 10 days, or for 2 to
3 weeks at slightly lower temperatures. After
curing, store at 50°F to 60°F and 70 to 75 percent
humidity (moderately dry), with some air
circulation. Squash freezes at just above 30°F. Store in
a basement storage room, root cellar, dry shed, or
attic for 5 to 6 months.
Sweet potatoes
Choose late-maturing varieties. Put sweet potatoes
directly into storage containers when you harvest
them. Cure them under moist conditions at 80°F to
85°F for 10 days. At lower temperature, curing takes
longer—2 to 3 weeks. Stack storage crates and
cover them to hold in the humidity while curing. After
curing, store at 55°F to 60°F and 85 to 90 percent
humidity (moderately moist), with some air
circulation. Sweet potatoes freeze at just below
30°F. Store in a basement storage room or dry shed for
4 to 6 months.
Tomatoes, green
Plant late so the vines will still be vigorous when you
pick the tomatoes for storage. Harvest green tomatoes
just before the first killing frost. When you harvest,
remove the stems from the tomatoes, then wash and
dry them before storing. Be careful not to break skins.
Separate the green tomatoes from those that are
showing red. Pack green tomatoes 1 or 2 layers deep in
boxes or trays; you can also ripen a few tomatoes
for immediate use by keeping them in closed paper
bags in the house and out of the direct sun. Store
green tomatoes at 55°F to 60°F and 85 to 90 percent
humidity (moderately moist), with good air
circulation. At room temperature mature green
tomatoes ripen in 2 weeks; at 55°F, ripening will be
slowed down to nearly 1 month. Immature green
tomatoes will take longer to ripen at either
temperature; tomatoes showing some red will ripen
faster, and can't be held in storage as long as totally
green ones. Check your tomatoes once a week to
monitor the ripening; remove the ripe ones and
any that have begun to decay. Tomatoes will freeze at
about 31°F. Store in a basement storage room or dry
shed up to1 month.
Turnips
Choose late-maturing varieties and leave them in
the ground until after the first few frosts. Dig them up
when the soil is dry, and leave them on the ground
for 3 or 4 hours. Remove the tops, leaving about 1/2
inch of the crown. Don't remove the roots. Pack in
packing material in wooden boxes, barrels, plastic
bags with air holes, or in a mound or buried barrel.
Since the strong odor of turnips can escape from the
basement up into the house, it's wisest to store
them separately and outdoors. Store at 32°F to 34°F and
90 to 95 percent humidity (moist), with a little air
circulation. Turnips will freeze at about 30°F. Store in a
mound or buried barrel for 4 to 5 months.
Watermelon
Harvest melons when fully ripe; they will not
continue to ripen during storage. Store at 45°F to 50°F
and 80 to 85 percent humidity (moderately moist),
with some air circulation. Pile or stack melons loosely,
with no packing material, on shelves in a basement
storage room or root cellar for 2 to 3 weeks.
Freezing foods is one of the fastest and simplest
methods of food preservation. It's easy to
prepare food for the freezer and easy to prepare
food for the table from the freezer. Best of all, foods
preserved by freezing taste more like fresh than
their canned or dried counterparts, and they retain
more color and nutritive value.
Almost all vegetables take well to freezing. In
fact, some vegetables shouldn't be preserved and
stored by any other method. The list of
better-frozen vegetables includes broccoli,
Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, eggplant,
mushrooms, parsnips, edible-pod peas, pumpkins,
rutabagas, and winter squash.
Although the techniques are simple and easy,
freezing is a more expensive form of storage than
canning. The freezer itself Is an investment, and it
takes electricity to run. But if you manage your freezer
wisely, it can still help you save on food costs.
Frozen vegetables can be stored a lot longer than
many other foods, but shouldn't be kept stored for
more than 12 months. By keeping your frozen
foods in a constant state of turnover, the freezer space
is being given maximum use. To get the most value
from your freezer, use up the foods you've stored and
replace them with others in season. The higher the
rate of turnover, the lower the cost per pound of food.
Keep a list near the freezer to indicate what
you've used, what's left, and what new foods you may
be adding from time to time. By keeping track of
what you have and how long it's been in the freezer,
you'll be sure to use up all your frozen foods within
the recommended storage period.
Getting started
Freezing is a simple method of food preservation
and requires only a few steps. Having selected
good-quaiity vegetables, then prepared and
packaged them for freezing, you can sit back and let
cold temperatures do the rest of the work.
Starting with the highest-quality vegetables and
other foods is the single most Important factor In
guaranteeing the quality of your frozen foods, but
you must follow the directions for all freezing
procedures exactly. Select the most perfect foods,
and always exercise the strictest sanitary conditions
and precautions when handling them. You can
never be too careful about properly packaging and
sealing foods for freezer storage.
If you follow freezing directions to the letter and
keep food In a well-managed freezer, your frozen
vegetables will be as delicious when you serve them
as when you preserved them.

STOPPING THE SPOILERS
Extreme cold — and that means temperatures of
0°F or lower — is what stops the growth of the
microorganisms In or around food that can cause
spoilage. Zero temperatures also slow down enzyme
activity and oxidation, which are chemical changes
affecting the color, flavor, and texture of food.
Although cold doesn't kill off these spoilers the way
heating at high temperatures for canning does,
freezing halts their activity during the time the food
Is stored.
There are five major spoilers that can affect
frozen food If it isn't handled properly:
•Bacteria^ yeasts^ and molds are normally present In
all fresh foods. When these begin to multiply
rapidly, spoilage occurs. You can stop these spoilers
In their tracks by using the highest-quality
vegetables and other foods, by preparing them
under the most sanitary conditions, and by
storing food at the specified, very cold
temperatures.
•Enzymes, also normally present in all food, work
to bring about chemical changes In it. These
changes result in spoilage — unless enzyme activity
is stopped before food is frozen, enzymes can
destroy the fresh flavor of vegetables and cause
them to take on an off-color. You can stop
enzyme activity by blanching vegetables (a brief heat
treatment) before freezing them.
•Freezer burn affects foods that haven't been
wrapped carefully enough. If exposed surfaces
on the food come in contact with the dry air of the
freezer, moisture Is lost, and dry, tough surfaces
develop. You can control freezer burn by using
moisture vaporproof packaging materials that are
airtight when sealed.
•Large ice crystals occur when food isn't frozen
quickly enough. Quick-freezing means storing
foods at O^F or even subzero temperatures. If foods
freeze too slowly, moisture from the cells in the
food fibers forms ice crystals between the fibers,
and the product loses liquid and may darken.
Quick-freezing at zero temperatures locks the
cells in the food fiber in their proper places.
• Oxidation is a chemical change that occurs when
frozen foods are exposed to oxygen. The oxygen
reacts chemically with other substances In the foods
to create changes that affect the quality of that
food. To prevent loss of quality due to oxidation, fill
and seal your freezer containers correctly and
carefully.

BASIC FREEZING EQUIPMENT
Except for the freezer and proper packaging
materials, your kitchen is probably already supplied
with most of the other pots, pans, and utensils
you'll need for home freezing. This section is a guide
to the tools and materials necessary for proper
freezing of vegetables. And always remember that —
no matter how good your equipment — it must be
spotlessly clean and sanitary while you work, to
prevent bacterial contamination.
Freezer containers
Preserving food by freezing is based on the
principle that extreme cold (0°F) halts the activity of
microorganisms, enzymes, oxidation, and other
changes that cause food spoilage. When preserving
foods by the heat treatment method of canning,
containers must be hermetically sealed. Although
that's not necessary for frozen storage, the
packages you use must be airtight, as well as
moisture/vaporproof, odorless, tasteless, and
greaseproof.
The best package size for you depends on your
freezer and your family. Pack food in containers that
will take care of your crew for one meal. You can
plan on two servings to a pint container; three or four
servings from a quart-size. It's quicker to thaw two
single pint containers than one large container.
There are two kinds of freezer containers suitable
for freezing foods at home — rigid containers and
flexible bags or wrappers. Some delicate
vegetables like asparagus or broccoli might be
damaged if packaged immediately after blanching.
To protect them, these vegetables are tray frozen
briefly before being packed in freezer containers.
Rigid containers. Rigid containers are best for
vegetables or foods that are liquid or don't have a
distinct shape. Rigid containers include plastic
freezer containers with tight-fitting lids or
can-or-freeze jars with wide mouths and
tight-fitting lids. Square or rectangular containers
use freezer space more efficiently than round
containers or those with flared sides or raised
bottoms. Freezer containers can be reused. Wash
them and their lids in hot suds; then rinse, drain,
and cool.
Can-or-freeze jars come in three sizes: 1/2 pint, 1
pint, and 11/2 pints. Plastic freezer boxes come in
1-pint, 11/2-pint, 1-quart, and 2-quart sizes.
Freezer bags and pouches. Bags made from
polyethylene or heavy-duty plastic or the new boilable
pouches that can be heat-sealed are also good for
freezing vegetables. Liquid foods are safest in plastic
bags that are then placed in protective cardboard
boxes. Although bags aren't always easy to stack,
they're great for tray-frozen vegetables and bulky
or odd-shaped items.
Plastic freezer bags come in many sizes: 1 pint,
11/2 pints, 1 quart, 2 quarts, 1 gallon, and 2 gallons
you close these bags by pressing out the air, twisting
the top and doubling it over, then wrapping the
top several times with a twist tie.
Other packaging materials. Never use empty,
plastic-coated milk cartons or cottage cheese or ice
cream containers for freezing, since these aren't
airtight enough to be reused as freezer containers.
Lightweight plastic wrap, butcher paper, and waxed
paper aren't tough enough to protect food in the
freezer, either. Freezer wrap — specially laminated or
coated freezer paper, heavy-duty plastic wrap, or
heavy-duty aluminum foil — is seldom used for
freezing vegetables. Reserve it for meats, fish,
game, casseroles, and cakes.
The freezer
In this book, all references to a freezer mean a
separate appliance for freezing only. The ice-cube
section of a refrigerator is good for very short-term
storage only, and "short-term" means days, not
weeks or months. The separate freezing
compartment of a refrigerator can hold food for
weeks; a side-by-side freezer section can hold food
for a few months. But, for long-term storage at 0°F,
a separate household freezer is still your
best bet.
Three types of freezers. There are three types of
home freezers from which to choose. Upright freezers
range in size from 6 to 22 cubic feet and may have 3
to 7 shelves. Chest freezers run from 6 to 32 cubic feet.
Refrigerator-freezer combinations range in size
from 2 to 16 cubic feet of freezer space. Freezers with
the frostless feature save you the work of annual
defrosting, and keep frost from building up on food
packages. (Frostless freezers should be cleaned
annually.)
The freezer size and type you buy will depend on
your needs and available space. A chest freezer
usually costs less to buy, and to run, but an upright
may fit into your home more easily. Most folks agree
that it's easier to find and remove foods from an
upright freezer, too. In a combination model, the
freezer is separated from the refrigerator section,
having a separate door, either at the top, bottom, or
side of the refrigerator. Check your space and your
budget to decide which type is best for you.
Plan on 6 cubic feet of freezer space per person
in your family. Then, if you can manage it, buy a
freezer bigger than that. Once you get used to
having a freezer, you'll have no trouble filling it.
Whichever freezer type you choose, place it in a
cool, dry, and well-ventilated location. Before you
start shopping, scout out a good location in your
home, measure it, and check your doorway
measurements to be sure the freezer you buy will fit
through them.
Adjusting freezer temperature. Keep track of your
freezer's temperature with a refrigerator-freezer
thermometer. Put it toward the front of the storage
area, fairly high up in the load of food. Leave it
overnight — without opening the freezer — before
you check it for the first time. If the thermometer
reads above 0°F, adjust the freezer's temperature
control to a lower setting. Wait another day and
check the thermometer again to see if you adjusted
the temperature correctly. When you've got the
temperature just right, check the thermometer once a
day. But, if your freezer has an automatic defrost,
don't take a reading during the defrost cycle — it
won't be an accurate reflection of normal freezer
temperature.
Managing your freezer. For the most efficient use
of your freezer, you must be organized. Think of your
freezer as a warehouse or a food depository. You
need to keep track of what's inside, when it went in,
and when it should come out. "First in, first out" is
the byword for the best in flavor and appearance in
frozen food. The food is still safe to eat after 12
months, but may not be at the peak of its quality. As a
rule of thumb, rotate your entire stock about every
six months, or freeze only enough vegetables to last
until the next growing season.
By grouping like with like in your freezer, your
inventory will be more organized and your searching
simplified. One shelf or section can keep
vegetables, another fruits, another cooked foods or
main dishes. Devise an inventory form to help you
keep track of where each category of food is. You
might put the chart on a clipboard hung on the
freezer door handle or nearby. Then note what goes
in, out, how much, and when. Don't forget to label
each and every package clearly — in writing or
symbols someone besides yourself can read!
Legible labels and good packing in the freezer make
inventory and food selection easy.
As you use your frozen food, keep a running
check on your methods and packaging. If you notice
that a particular bag, container, or sealing method
isn't doing the job, make a mental note of it and try
another procedure or packaging next time.
Caring for your freezer. Take care of your freezer
according to the manufacturer's directions. By
keeping the freezer defrosted, free of ice, and
clean, it'll work better and cost you less to operate. A
full or almost-full freezer is cheaper to run than an
empty or almost-empty one. The higher the
turnover — the more you use and replace frozen
foods — the less your freezer "warehouse" costs per
item.
If your freezer needs an annual or semi-annual
defrost, do it while the weather is cold, preferably
before you start planning your garden. During a
defrosting in cold weather, not only can the food wait
outside (in well-insulated boxes or coolers), but
you can take a thorough inventory and then determine
how much to plant in spring. If you have lots of
green beans left in March, that's a clue that supply is
exceeding demand. Put up less the coming year and
fill that freezer space with something else.
To defrost your freezer, follow manufacturer's
directions. If you don't have directions, remove food
to a cold place — outdoors in a cooler, if the
Weather is very cold or placed in a neighbor's freezer,
or a locker. Unplug or turn off the freezer, and put
in a pan or two of hot water or a blowing fan to help
hurry the melting. DON'T use a hair dryer or other
heating appliance, because the heat could melt or
warp some of the materials on the inside of the
freezer. As the ice loosens, scrape it off with a plastic
windshield scraper or other similar tool. When all
the ice is gone, wash the inside of the freezer with a
solution of three tablespoons baking soda
dissolved in a quart of warm water. Wipe dry, turn the
freezer on, and put the food back in. Clean frostless
freezers with a baking soda solution annually.
If your freezer develops an odor, put a piece or
two of charcoal on a paper towel and set them in the
freezer a few days.
What to do when the freezer goes out. if your
freezer quits or the power goes out, there are several
steps you can take to protect your frozen foods.
First, set the freezer temperature at the lowest setting,
then shut the freezer and DON'T OPEN IT UNLESS
ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY. If kept closed, a full
freezer will keep food frozen for 15 to 20 hours and
food will stay below40°F for up to 48 hours. A half-full
freezer may keep foods frozen for just under a day.
If the freezer will be off for longer, dry ice could
save the day, if you act quickly. (It's a good idea to
locate a source of dry ice in advance and keep the
name and number handy for just such an emergency.)
A 25-pound chunk of dry ice, carefully handled with
gloves and placed on a piece of heavy cardboard on
top of the packages of food, should hold a half-full
freezer (10 cubic feet) for two to three days; if the
freezer is full, it will carry you over for three to four
days. (Use two-and-a-half pounds of dry ice for each
cubic foot.) Be sure the room is well-ventilated
when you're working with dry ice.
If dry ice is unavailable, pack up the food and use
a locker or a neighbor's freezer.
If the food's temperature rises above 40°F —
ordinary refrigerator temperature — check it over
carefully and immediately cook it completely. It's
always better to use thawed foods immediately. If
you do refreeze thawed foods, use them as soon as
possible. If the food shows any signs of spoilage —
color or texture change, slipperiness, or off-odor
— and has been over 40°F, don't take any
chances — toss it out. A freezer thermometer is an
excellent guide to freezer safety. If you don't have a
thermometer, feel the food and take a guess. Anything
that's still frozen solid, and still has ice crystals
throughout, is safe to refreeze or use if you're quick
about it.
The blancher
Vegetables are precooked slightly before freezing
in order to arrest the chemical changes that are caused
by enzyme activity. This brief heat treatment is
called blanching, and you'll need a blancher to do it
properly. A blancher is a large pot, with a cover and
a perforated insert or basket insert for lifting
vegetables out of the boiling water. You can buy
one in the housewares section of most stores, or you
can make your own from a large (6- to8-quart)
pot with a cover and something (a colander, sieve,
deep frying basket, or cheesecloth bag) to lift the
vegetables from the boiling water.
When you aren't using the blancher for freezing
vegetables, it won't gather dust. It can also be used as a
spaghetti cooker, steamer, or even a deep-fat fryer.
Other basic equipment
Besides the freezer and blancher, the basic
equipment for freezing consists of whatever kitchen
implements you'll need to prepare the food for
packaging. Remember that it's essential to keep
equipment, work area, and hands clean.
To freeze vegetables successfully, you'll need:
Rigid freezer containers with airtight lids for
liquid foods: plastic freezer containers;
freezer cans or jars with wide mouths
Bags: plastic storage bags; heavy-duty plastic
bags; or boilable pouches
String, rubber bands, pipe cleaners, or twist
ties to fasten freezer bags
Shallow tray, cookie sheet, or jelly-roll pan for
tray freezing
Additional heavy-duty plastic wrap or heavy-
duty aluminum foil
Sharp paring knife
Chopping knife
Colander, sieve, strainer, or paper towels
Stiff vegetable scrubbing brush
Teakettle for extra boiling water
Ricer, food mill, or blender for mashing or
pureeing
Freezer tape to seal wrapped foods and to
make labels
Grease pencil or felt-tip marker or
pressure-sensitive labels for labeling
packages
BASIC INGREDIENTS
Choose vegetables that are tender, ripe but just
barely ready to eat, and just as fresh as possible.
Slightly under-mature vegetables are better for
freezing than those that are past their prime. For peak
flavor, rush vegetables from the garden to the
freezer within two hours. If you can't freeze
vegetables within that time limit, cool the
vegetables quickly in ice water, drain well, and keep
refrigerated until ready to prepare for freezing.
Ice. Since cooling is an important part of
preparing vegetables for freezing, you need plenty of
Ice at hand to keep the cooling water really cold.
Estimate one pound of ice for each pound of
vegetables you're going to freeze. Keep a good
store of ice in reserve for your home freezing heeds by
filling heavy-duty plastic bags with ice cubes, or
freezing water in empty milk cartons. Keep adding to
your stored ice from time to time, and you won't be
caught short in the midst of a big freezing job.
Butter and seasonings. Most vegetables are frozen
without any flavoring or seasoning added. However, if
you want to freeze pouched vegetables in butter
sauce, we suggest a combination of butter, salt, and
herbs (oregano, basil, savory, chervil, tarragon,
thyme, sage, or marjoram).
BASIC FREEZING TECHNIQUES
Although freezing food is one of the easiest
methods for putting food by, that doesn't mean
there's nothing to it. If you approach the project
carefully and scientifically, you'll be able to get the
best frozen food possible and to use energy wisely.
Most vegetables take well to freezing, and, when
you serve them at a later date, they'll be as close to
fresh as any preserving method can guarantee. In
fact, some vegetables shouldn't really be stored by any
other method, since freezing has proven to be the
best method for preserving them. These include
broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, ,
eggplant, mushrooms, parsnips, edible-pod peas,
pumpkins, rutabagas, and winter squash. The only
vegetables that don't freeze well are lettuce and other
fresh greens for salads, and watery vegetables like
radishes and cucumbers.
Other than those, almost anything can be frozen.
When you aren't sure whether you'll like a certain
vegetable frozen, try a sample batch of just a few
packages, bags, or containers. Freeze for a couple o1
weeks, then taste. If you hate it, not much has been
lost.
It's a good idea to check with your local
Cooperative Extension Service Office for advice on
the best vegetables to plant for freezing.
Knowledgeable produce people, either in the
supermarket or at a stand, can be excellent sources
of information, too.
Selecting the vegetables
Rule number one is to select the highest-quality
food possible. The vegetables you choose should be
tender, fresh, and ripe enough to be eaten right
away. NEVER use vegetables that have become
overripe either before or after harvesting.
As with any preserving method, you must clean
vegetables carefully before freezing. Wash, scrub,
rinse, and drain them just as if you were going to eat
and serve them right away.
Blanching
Blanching is a brief heat treatment given to
vegetables before they're packaged and frozen. Its
purpose is to stop the action of enzymes, which can
destroy the fresh flavor of vegetables and cause
off-colors. If you want to successfully freeze
vegetables, it's generally necessary to blanch them
before freezing. This simple technique also helps
seal in vitamins, brightens the color of vegetables to
be frozen, and shrinks them slightly to make
packing easier. When freezing herbs or vegetables
such as green onions or hot peppers, which are to
be used for flavoring only, blanching isn't necessary.
Follow blanching times given in the freezing
recipes precisely. Blanching for too short a time is
worse than not blanching at all — enzyme action
will be stimulated instead of stopped. And, if blanched
for too long a time, your vegetables will cook,
losing vitamins, minerals, flavor, and color.
Use one gallon of water per pound of vegetables,
or two gallons for leafy greens. Blanching water must
be boiling when you lower the vegetables into it.
Fill the blancher with vegetables and lower it into
boiling water; start timing as soon as the vegetables
have gone into the boiling water. You may keep the
blancher covered during the blanching period or
keep the heat on high and stir frequently. If you live at
5,000 feet or more above sea level, blanch one
minute longer than the times specified in each recipe.
You can also blanch vegetables in a microwave
oven. Follow the directions in the manufacturer's
instruction book.
When blanching a large quantity of vegetables,
start with only the amount that can be blanched and
cooled in a 15-minute period, and put the rest in the
refrigerator. Package, label, and freeze each blanched
group before starting on the next. You can use the
same blanching water for several batches of
vegetables, adding additional boiling water from a
teakettle to replace water lost through evaporation. If
you wish, change the water when it becomes
cloudy. Keep a second pot or large teakettle boiling,
so you won't be delayed when the time comes to
change the blanching water.
Cooling
After vegetables have been precooked the exact
amount of time, remove them immediately from the
boiling water and cool them. This is crucial for
keeping the heating process from continuing past the
proper period for each vegetable or food. Transfer
the vegetables quickly from the blancher to the ice
water. The kitchen sink is a good spot for holding
ice water to cool vegetables, but if you want it free for
other uses, put the ice water in a plastic dishpan or
other large, clean container.
Be sure to add new ice to the Ice water frequently,
so it stays as cold as possible. You'll need plenty of ice
on hand to keep the cooling water really cold. Plan
on one pound of ice for every pound of vegetables
you're going to freeze. To have a ready supply when
you need it, you'll have to stock up in advance.
Packing and sealing
The secret to successful freezer packaging is to seal
the air out and keep it out. Immediately after
blanching and cooling, pack vegetables loosely in
proper containers. Plastic freezer bags and boxes or
can-and-freeze jars are all excellent. Freezer
containers must be airtight, moisture/vaporproof,
odorless, tasteless, and greaseproof.
Head space. Since food expands as it freezes, you
must allow room — or head space — for this
expansion. Otherwise the lids will pop off, bags will
burst, and you'll have wasted food, time, and money.
Foods that are dry need no head space. Food that's
packed in liquid or is mostly liquid needs 1/4 inch of
head space for pints, 1/2 inch for quarts. If you pack
foods in containers with narrow mouths, the food
expands upward in the container even more,
requiring^ inch of head space for pints and iy2 inches
for quarts. We suggest you stick to wide-mouth
containers. The recipes in this book give you head
space needs for each particular food for wide-
mouth containers only.
Sealing. How you seal food for the freezer is just
as important as how you package it. After wiping the
mouths of your freezer containers with a clean,
damp cloth, seal rigid containers by following the
manufacturer's instructions (if there are any), or by
snapping, screwing, or fitting the lid tightly on the
container. If the lid doesn't seem tight, seal it with
freezer tape.
Seal bags or boilable pouches with a heat-sealing
appliance; follow the instructions that come with the
heat sealer. Or seal bags by pressing out the air,
then twisting the bag close to the food. Fold the
twisted section over and fasten it with a rubber
band, pipe cleaner, or twist tie. To get air out of an
odd-shaped bag, lower the filled bag into a sink full
of water and let the water press the air out. Twist the
bag top, lift it out, double the twisted area
backward, and fasten.
broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, whole- *
kernel corn, kohlrabi, peas, sweet or hot peppers,
prepared potatoes, rutabagas, and summer
squash. The recipes that follow indicate if tray freezing
is recommended.
Quick-freezing
Put your sealed freezer packages in the coldest spot
in your freezer, which should be set at 0°F. Place the
containers in a single layer, leaving a little space
between each package for heat to escape — or follow
any specific freezing directions given by the
manufacturer. Be sure to set the freezer temperature
control to the lowest setting several hours before
you'll be preparing food for freezing.
Look back to the use-and-care book that came
with your freezer to locate the coldest sections. If you
have an upright freezer, the shelves are the coldest
places; in a chest freezer, the coldest places are near
the walls. In a combination refrigerator-freezer, the
shelves inside the freezer—not the door shelves —
are the coldest places.
After arranging packages in a single layer, shut
the freezer and leave it alone for 24 hours. When that
time has elapsed, the food should be frozen solid.
Stack it up and move it away from the coldest part to
Labeling. A good freezer label should tell what
food is in the package, the amount of food or number
of servings, and when it went into the freezer.
Better yet, it should tell how the food was packed, and
when, for example, "Sugar Pack Strawberries —
June, 1976." You might want to include an
"expiration" or "use-by" date. Frozen main dishes,
sauces packed in boilable pouches, and other more
complex items call for a label with description,
number of servings, perhaps even heating and
thawing instructions.
Select labeling materials that will last. A grease
pencil or felt tip marker may write directly on the
container. Freezer tape makes a quick label, as do
pressure-sensitive labels from a stationery store. Try
to print legibly and use standard abbreviations.
Tray freezing. This technique is used with more
delicate vegetables — asparagus for example — to
keep them from being damaged during packaging.
Since individual stalks are frozen separately first, tray
freezing allows you to remove serving portions
from the pouch when you need them. To tray freeze,
blanch the vegetables, cool them in ice water, drain
well, and then spread in a single layer on a cookie
sheet, jelly-roll pan, or special tray. Freeze until just
solid — usually about an hour. As soon as the
vegetables are frozen solid, transfer them to
containers, bags, or pouches. Seal the containers and
store them in the freezer.
The tray freezing technique Is used with
asparagus, green beans, lima beans, soybeans.
another area in the freezer for storage. Then you
can add another batch to be frozen.
Your freezer can only freeze a limited amount of
food at a time, usually two to three pounds of food for
each cubic foot of freezer space. Don't try to freeze
any more than that or the food will freeze too slowly
and quality will be lowered. The amount of food
your freezer can freeze at once helps you determine
how much food to prepare for the freezer on any
particular day. If you have more food to be frozen than
your freezer can take, either refrigerate packages
for a day or so (not much longer), or cart it all to a
locker to be frozen, then transfer it to your home
freezer. Always try to keep a cold spot free to quickly
freeze additional food.
When you're done freezing food In quantity,
reset the control to the setting that will maintain 0°F.
Serving frozen vegetables
Most frozen vegetables should be cooked without
thawing. Corn-on-the-cob is a major exception; it
must be thawed completely before cooking.
Greens should be partially thawed in order to separate
the individual leaves before cooking. Vegetables
fully cooked before freezing should also be partially
thawed before heating. Once they're thawed, use
your vegetables as quickly as possible. Food that's
been frozen spoils more quickly than fresh food.
Cooking frozen vegetables. For best results, cook
frozen vegetables just as you would fresh ones — but
cook them for a shorter period, since blanching
shortens cooking times. Prepare only the amount of
vegetables you'll consume at one meal, and use as
little cooking water as possible.
For each pint of frozen vegetables, heat 1/4 to 1/2
cup water to boiling in a small or medium saucepan.
Add the vegetables and keep them over high heat until
the water returns to a boil. Break vegetables into
individual pieces with a fork as they heat. When the
water boils again, cover the pan, reduce the heat,
and simmer just until the vegetables are tender. The
recipes in this book give specific postfreezing
cooking times for each vegetable. Begin timing when
the cooking water returns to a boil. When crisp-
tender, add butter or margarine, salt, pepper, or other
seasonings to taste. Serve vegetables immediately
after cooking, so they won't lose nutrients.
For tray-frozen vegetables, just remove the
amount you need from the freezer. Increase cooking
water to a little more than 1/2 cup if you plan to serve
more than 2 cups of vegetables. Cook as above.
For pouched vegetables, follow the cooking
directions that come In the heat-sealer's instruction
book.
Butter sauce for pouched vegetables. For each 1 to
11/2 cups vegetables in small boilable pouches, add 2
tablespoons water, 1 tablespoon butter, 1/4 to 1/2
teaspoon salt, and a dash oregano, basil, savory,
chervil, tarragon, thyme, sage, marjoram, or other
herbs appropriate to your vegetable. Seal, label, and
freeze. Heat as the manufacturer directs.
Soups, casseroles, sauces, gravies, dips, and
other mixtures need only be heated to serving
temperatures. Baked goods such as zucchini bread
or carrot bread can be served just after thawing.
Rules for safe freezing
For clean and safe-to-eat foods, always follow the
freezing recipe directions exactly, use the containers
and equipment called for, and keep in mind the
following Do's and Don'ts:
DO
•Work in a clean kitchen with clean floors, counter
tops, cabinets and range, and clean equipment.
•Keep utensils that handle raw meat and poultry
scrupulously clean. That means scrubbing,
washing, and rinsing knives and cutting boards
between each type of cutting or chopping task.
•Work with clean food. Wash, scrub, and rinse
vegetables in several waters, lift food out of
the water to drain, and don't let water drain off over
food.
•Work with clean dishcloths and towels, clean
hands, and clean clothes.
•Wash your hands each time you touch something
other than food, such as your hair, your face, the
phone, a child, or a pet.
•Get out all the necessary equipment. Wash it and
ready all ingredients before you start to follow
recipe directions, so there'll be no delays and no
chance for food to spoil.
•Remember to protect your hands when working
with hot foods. Use hot pads and tongs.
•Be extra cautious with large pots or kettles of
boiling water or food. Don't move them, but keep
them on the range and work there.
•Avoid any sudden changes in temperatures when
working with can-or-freeze jars. Putting a hot jar
on a counter or in a cold draft could cause it to break.
•Always read and follow manufacturer's directions
for special equipment or appliances.
•Use the very best, most perfect food for freezing.
Spending time and money to freeze less than the
best is a waste.
•Blanch all vegetables before freezing. Blanching
destroys enzymes that can cause chemical
changes in foods, and is an essential step.
•Use moisture/vaporproof containers and seal
properly, following recipe directions exactly.
Poor packaging can cause freezer burn, off-flavors,
and less-than-the-best foods.
•Freeze foods quickly to prevent large ice crystals
from forming. Follow the directions for quick-
freezing.
•Buy a freezer thermometer and check it regularly.
It should read 0°F at all times — any higher
temperature and you're shortening the freezer life
of the food.
•Keep an inventory of your frozen vegetables, so
you can use them within the best part of their
freezer life. Most vegetables will maintain quality for
a year. Vegetables that have been fully cooked
before freezing should be stored for a much shorter
time — no more than a month.
•Cook and serve vegetables as each recipe directs.
Vegetables are best cooked directly from the
frozen state, in a very small amount of water and just
until tender.
•Put your freezer in a convenient, cool, dry, well-
ventilated location and clean and/or defrost it
once a year.
DON'T
•Don't use your hands when a kitchen tool will do
the job. Keep fingers out of food if at all
possible.
•Don't try shortcuts or substitutions or time-saving
gimmicks. There's only one correct way to
prepare food for freezing, and the techniques and
recipes that follow are based on it.
•Don't cook or prepare food for preserving when
you're sick.
•Don't prepare food if you have sores on your
hands, unless you wear rubber gloves.
BASIC FREEZING STEPS
By now you can see that preparing vegetables for
the freezer isn't too different from preparing them for
dinner. However, you must always follow the
freezing recipes exactly. The recipes in the next
section give you specific instructions for each
vegetable, but here is a summary of the basic steps:
1.Check your freezer's size and estimate how
much food you can freeze in a 24-hour period
(3 pounds of food for each cubic foot of space),
then check the recipe for the vegetable you want
to freeze to see how much to pick for a single
preparation session.
2.Select tender, young, fresh vegetables that
are unblemished.
3.Wash vegetables well in plenty of cold water,
scrubbing with a brush whenever necessary. Lift
the vegetables out of the water to drain. Don't
let them stand in water any longer than
necessary, because they lose nutrients. Sort
by size and handle like sizes together for even
heating and cooling.
4.Put 1 gallon of water (2 gallons for greens) in
the blancher; cover, and place It over high heat.
5.Prepare the sink or dishpan full of ice cubes
and ice water.
6.Cut or prepare the vegetables, about 1 pound
or 4 cups at a time, as the recipe directs.
7.Put 1 pound of prepared vegetables in the
blancher's Insert and lower it into rapidly boiling
water. Keep the heat high. Cover and begin
timing immediately.
8.When the time is up, remove the cover, lift the
blancher's insert up out of the blancher for a few
seconds to drain, then immediately put the
insert of vegetables into ice water.
9.Keep vegetables in the ice water for about the
same length of time as they were in the boiling
water, or until cold. Stirring will help cool the
vegetables.
10.Lift the vegetables from the ice water and
drain them well in a colander, sieve, or on paper
towels.
11. Pack into containers, bags, or freeze on trays.
12.Label each package with contents, number of
servings, and date frozen. You might also wish to
list an expiration date.
13.Freeze, following the directions for quick-
freezing, or any special manufacturer's
directions for your freezer.
14.Most vegetables will keep for 12 months
at O°F.
Drying is probably the oldest method of food
preservation. Though canned and frozen foods
have taken over the major role once played by dried
foods, drying is still cheaper and easier by
comparison. Some other advantages of dried foods
are that they take up less storage space and will keep
well for a long time — up to 12 months — if
prepared and stored properly. Unlike frozen foods,
they are not dependent on a power source. Though
you may find canned and frozen vegetables are closer
in taste and appearance to fresh food, you'll like
having a stock of dried vegetables on hand to add
variety and special flavor to meals.
STOPPING THE SPOILERS
Drying preserves vegetables by removing
moisture, thus cutting off the water supply that would
nourish food spoilers like bacteria, yeasts, and
molds. The moisture content drops so low that
spoilage organisms can't grow.
Although there's a definite technique to drying
vegetables, it isn't quite as precise as the procedures
used for freezing or canning. Unless you'll be using
an electric food dryer, you'll have to use trial and error
to find the best way to maintain the proper oven
temperature throughout the drying process and to
provide good ventilation so moisture from the food
can escape. Drying times are given in the recipes for
the individual vegetables, but these times are only
approximate. Every oven is different, and drying times
also depend on how many vegetables you're drying
at once, how thinly they've been sliced, and how
steady you've kept the heat. So you'll have to
experiment at first with drying times. Experience is the
best teacher when it comes to judging when your
vegetables are dry enough to keep the spoilers from
contaminating them.
Vegetables for drying
There are a great many vegetables you can dry at
home for use in perking up your salads, soups, stews,
and casseroles. Good vegetables to dry include
green beans, corn, peas, peppers, okra, onions,
mushrooms, tomatoes, and summer squash.
Herbs also drywell. For more information on drying
herbs, see "How to Store and Use Herbs," later in
this book.
Although many vegetables drywell, some
vegetables should be preserved by other methods for
best results. For example, lettuce, cucumbers, and
radishes don't drywell because of their high moisture
content. Asparagus and broccoli are better frozen
to retain their flavor and texture. And if you've got the
storage space, you may find it more practical to
store fresh carrots, turnips, parsnips, potatoes,
pumpkins, rutabagas, and winter squash in cold
storage where they'll keep for several months without
any special preserving treatment.
FOOD DRYING METHODS
The sun, of course, Is the food dryer our ancestors
used. If you live where Old Sol shines long, you too
can dry fruits and vegetables outdoors. But those in
less sunny regions will want a little help from a kitchen
oven (gas, electric, convection, or microwave)
or one of the new electric dryers or
dehydrators. You can also make your own box
dryer.
Oven drying is faster than using an electric dryer
or dehydrator, but the electric dryers can handle
much larger food loads than any of the ovens. Oven
drying is best for small-scale preserving, since the
ordinary kitchen model will hold no more than four
to six pounds of food at one time. If you've got an
extra-big vegetable garden and expect to dry food
in quantity, you may want to investigate the new
electric dryers or dehydrators, available in some
stores and through seed catalogs. Several of the small
convection ovens now on the market also have
special racks available for drying vegetables. When
using an electric dryer, or a convection or
microwave oven for drying vegetables, always read
and follow the manufacturer's directions.
Oven drying
Oven drying may be the easiest way for you to dry
food, because it eliminates the need for special
equipment. If you've never tried dried vegetables
before, why not do up a small batch and sample the
taste and texture?
Gas and electric ovens. Preheat your gas or electric
oven to 140°F for drying vegetables; you'll need an
oven thermometer that registers as low as 100°F in
order to keep this temperature constant throughout
the many hours of the drying process. Since ovens
will vary, you'll probably have to experiment until you
learn what works best with yours. For example, the
pilot light on some gas stoves may provide just enough
heat, or the light bulb in the oven may keep it warm
enough for drying vegetables. Some electric ovens
have a "low" or "warm" setting that may provide
the right temperature for drying.
You must keep the oven door open slightly
during drying, so moist air can escape. Use a rolled
newspaper, wood block, hot pad, or other similar
item to prop open the oven door about one inch for an
electric oven and four to six inches for a gas oven.
Sometimes it also helps to place an electric fan set on
"low" in front of the oven door to keep air
circulating. Don't use a fan for a gas oven with a pilot
light, though; it can blow out the pilot.
You'll be able to read the oven thermometer
easily if you put it in the middle of the top tray of
vegetables, take a reading after the first 10 minutes,
and, if necessary, make adjustments in the door
opening or the temperature control. After^ that,
check the oven temperature every 30 minutes during
the drying process to be sure it remains constant at
140°F.
To keep air circulating around the food, your
drying trays should be one to two inches smaller all
around than the interior of your oven. If you want to
add more trays, place blocks of wood at the corners of
the oven racks and stack the trays at least one-anda-
half inches apart. You can dry up to four trays at once
in a conventional oven, but remember that a big
load takes longer to dry than a smaller one. Don't use
the top position of the oven rack in an electric oven
for drying, because food on the top tray will dry too
quickly.
Since the temperature varies inside the oven, it's
important to shift your vegetable drying trays every
half-hour. Rotate the trays from front to back, and
shift them from top to bottom. Numbering the trays
will help you keep track of the rotation order. You'll
also need to stir the vegetables every 30 minutes, to
be sure the pieces are drying evenly.
Convection ovens. To dry vegetables in a
convection oven, arrange them on the dehydrating
racks provided, and place the racks in a cold oven.
Set the temperature at 150°F for vegetables, 100°F for
herbs. The air should feel warm, not hot. Keep an
oven thermometer inside the oven, so you can keep
track of the temperature. Prop the oven door open
one to one-and-a-half inches to allow moisture to
evaporate. Set the oven timer to the "stay on"
position. Or, if your oven doesn't have a "stay on"
option, set it for maximum time possible, then reset
It during drying, if necessary. Drying times in a
convection oven are usually shorter, so check
foods for doneness at the lower range of times given in
the recipes. Rotate the racks and stir the vegetables
as you would using a conventional oven.
Microwave ovens. To dry foods in a microwave
oven, follow the directions that come with your
appliance. Usually, you arrange the prepared
vegetables in a single, even layer on paper towels,
cover them with more paper towels, and then dry
the food at a reduced power setting. If you have a
microwave roasting rack, arrange the vegetables on
It before drying. Stir the vegetables and replace the
paper towels with fresh ones periodically. Exact
drying times can vary widely, depending on the
wattage and efficiency of your oven, the food itself,
and the humidity, so you'll need to check frequently
and keep a record of best drying times for
reference.
Food dryers
Both commercial and homemade food dryers
provide automatically controlled heat and ventilation.
You can buy the new electric dryers or dehydrators
in many hardware, housewares, farm supply, and
health food stores. Prices range from $25 to $100,
depending on the size of the appliance and other
special features. Or you can make your own drying
box, following the directions given below.
Electric dryers or dehydrators. These are
lightweight metal boxes with drawer racks for drying
foods, which will hold up to 14 pounds of fresh
vegetables. If you'll be doing a great deal of home
drying, look into an electric dryer, because drying
large quantities of vegetables could tie up your
kitchen oven for days at a time. Although electric
dryers use less electricity for drying than would an
electric oven for the same amount of vegetables,
electric dryers run at lower temperatures and drying
times are a bit longer.
When using an electric dryer or dehydrator,
always follow the manufacturer's directions for drying
foods.
Homemade drying box. A simple-to-make drying
box can be constructed from a cardboard box, as in
the instructions that follow. Or you may invent
some other alternatives. For example, your radiators
may send out enough heat to dry foods in winter, or
perhaps your attic in the summer is hot and dry
enough. Never use space heaters for drying
vegetables, though — space heaters stir up dust and
dirt, which contaminate the food.
How to make a drying box. A hardware or discount
store should have everything you need to make this
simple dryer:
• Either a metal cookie sheet with sides or a jelly-
roll pan is needed to hold the food.
• An empty cardboard box (that has the same top
dimensions as the cookie sheet) forms the drying
box. The sheet should just fit on top of the box, or
the rims of the sides should rest on the edges of
the open-topped box.
• A box of heavy-duty or extra-wide aluminum foil
is used to line the box.
• A small can of black paint is used to paint the
bottom of the cookie sheet; buy a spray can or a
small brush.
• A 60-watt light bulb and socket attached to a cord
and plug provide the heat.
Line the inside of the box with foil, shiny side up.
Cut a tiny notch in one corner for the cord to run out.
Set the light fixture in the center, resting it on a
crumpled piece of foil. Paint the bottom of the cookie
sheet black and let it dry.
Prepare the vegetables according to the recipe.
Spread them in a single, even layer on the black-
bottomed cookie sheet. Then put the sheet in place
on top of the box. Plug in the light bulb to preheat the
box and dry until the food is done according to the
recipe. Each recipe specifies how to tell when food is
sufficiently dry. If you're drying more than one
sheet of food you II have to make more than one
drying box. Don't prepare more food than you can
dry at one time.
BASIC DRYING EQUIPMENT
Unless you decide to buy an electric dryer or
dehydrator, you've probably already got everything
necessary for home drying vegetables. In addition
to an oven or a box food dryer, you'll need:
• A scale to weigh food before and after drying.
• An oven thermometer that will read as low as
100°F for maintaining proper oven temperature.
• Sharp stainless steel knives that won't discolor
the vegetables, for thin-slicing, paring, or cutting
the food in half.
• A cutting board for chopping and slicing. Be sure
to scrub the board thoroughly before and after use.
• Baking or cookie sheets for use as drying trays.
Unless you're making a box food dryer, cookie
sheets without raised edges are best, since they
allow hot air to circulate around all sides of the
vegetables. (For microwave or convection oven
drying, you'll need a special rack.) Baking or
cookie sheets used for drying should be at least one
to two inches smaller all around than the inside of
your oven, so air can circulate.
• A blancher for pretreatment of most vegetables.
Use a ready-made blancher; or make one using a
deep pot with a cover, and a colander or gasket that
will fit down inside the pot. For steam blanching,
you'll need a rack or steamer basket.
• A long, flexible spatula for stirring the vegetable
pieces to insure even drying.
•Airtight storage containers, with tight-fitting lids,
that are also molsture/vaporproof. Use glass
canning or other jars, coffee cans lined with plastic
bags, freezer containers, or refrigerator-ware.
You can also use double plastic bags; close them
tightly with string, rubber bands, or twist ties.
• An electric fan to circulate the air in front of your
oven, if necessary.
BASIC INGREDIENTS
Choose perfect vegetables that are tender, mature
(but not woody), and very, very fresh. Vegetables
must be prepared and dried immediately after
harvesting, or they'll lose flavor and quality. Every
minute from harvesting to the drying tray
counts — so hurry. Never use produce with bad spots,
and harvest only the amount of vegetables you can
dry at one session.
Since vegetables must be chilled quickly after
blanching, you'll need ice at hand to keep the cooling
water really cold. Keep a reserve of ice in the freezer
and you won't run short. One way is to start filling
heavy-duty plastic bags with Ice cubes a few days
before you'll be home drying; or rinse out empty milk •
cartons, then fill them with water and freeze.
The kitchen sink is a favorite spot for holding ice
water to chill vegetables, but if you want to keep it free
for other uses, a plastic dishpan or other large,
clean container also works very well.
BASIC DRYING TECHNIQUES
Although the techniques for drying vegetables
aren't as precise as those for freezing or canning,
there's definitely a right way to go about it. As with
all preserving methods, you must always begin with
the freshest and highest-quality vegetables to
insure good results. Cleanliness and sanitation when
handling and preparing the food are also crucial.
And, though drying vegetables isn't difficult to do, it
demands plenty of careful attention. The vegetables
must be stirred, the temperature checked,
and tray positions changed about every half hour.
That means you must be at home during the whole
time it takes to dry your vegetables.
Speed is of the essence when preparing foods to
dry. For best results, vegetables should be blanched,
cooled, and blotted dry within a very short time of
harvesting. And you must never interrupt the drying
process once it's begun. You can't cool partly dried
food and then start it up again later, because there's a
chance bacteria, molds, and yeasts will find a home
in it. Always schedule your home drying for a day
when you're certain your work won't be
interrupted.
Cleaning and cutting
Harvest only as much food as you can dry at one
time. Using a kitchen oven, that's about four to six
pounds; an electric dryer or dehydrator can handle
up to 14 pounds of fresh produce. Wash and drain the
vegetables, then cut and prepare as the recipe
directs. Depending on the size of the vegetables and
the dryer, that could mean slicing, grating, cutting,
or simply breaking the food into pieces so it will dry
evenly on all sides. Remember that thin pieces dry
faster than thick ones. If you have a choice between
French-cutting and crosscutting green beans,
remember that the French-cut beans will dry faster.
Blanching
Nearly all vegetables must be blanched before
drying. Blanching—a brief heat treatment—stops
the action of enzymes, those catalysts for chemical
change present in all foods. If certain enzymes aren't
deactivated before vegetables are dried, the flavor
and color of the food will be destroyed. The drying
process alone isn't enough to stop enzyme activity.
Although blanching can also help seal in
nutrients, some other water-soluble nutrients are
leached out into the cooking water. You may want
to steam blanch your vegetables; it takes a bit longer,
but won't lead to as great a loss of nutrients.
Always follow the blanching times given in the
recipes exactly. Overblanching will result in the loss of
vitamins and minerals; underblanching won't do
the job of stopping enzyme action. Either way, you'll
end up with an inferior product.
Boiling water blanching. Heat one gallon of water
to boiling in a blancher. Put no more than one pound
or four cups of prepared vegetables at a time into
the blancher's insert, colander, or strainer, and
carefully lower it into boiling water for the time
given in the recipe.
Steam blanching. Pour enough water into the
blancher to cover the bottom, but not touch the
insert. Heat to boiling. Arrange the prepared
vegetables in a single layer in the blancher's insert;
put them in the blancher over boiling water, cover
tightly, and steam for the time given in the recipe. You
can use any large pot or kettle for steam blanching
by putting a rack about three inches above the bottom
to hold the vegetables in the steam and up out of
the boiling water. You may also wish to put the
vegetables in a cheesecloth bag to keep the pieces
together during blanching.
Chilling
You must always chill blanched vegetables before
drying them, to be certain the cooking process has
stopped. After removing the vegetables from the
blancher, immerse the colander or steamer rack full of
vegetables in a sink full of ice water or a dishpan full
of ice water. The vegetables should be chilled for the
same amount of time the recipe gives for blanching
in boiling water. Drain well, then blot with paper
towels.
Preparing to dry
Spread the blanched and drained vegetable pieces
in a single, even layer on the drying tray. (You can dry
more than one vegetable at the same time, but
strong-smelling vegetables such as onions, cabbage,
and carrots should be dried separately.) Put the
trays in the oven or electric dryer, leaving at least
one to two inches between the trays for air
circulation.
Maintaining proper drying temperature
Vegetables must be dried at low, even
temperatures — just enough heat to dry the pieces
without cooking them. The proper temperature for
drying in a conventional oven is 140°F, 1S0°F for
convection ovens. Follow the manufacturer's
directions for microwave ovens and all other
appliances. Maintaining the right temperature
steadily, with some air circulation, is the trick to
successful drying. Electric dryers and dehydrators
automatically maintain the right temperature. For
oven drying or when using a homemade box dryer,
check your oven thermometer every half hour. (To
insure even drying, you must also stir the
vegetables every 30 minutes or so, shift the trays from
top to bottom, and rotate the trays from front to
back.)
Although rapid drying is important, too rapid
drying in an oven will result in the outer surface of the
food hardening before the moisture inside has
evaporated (case hardening). You can prevent case
hardening by keeping a constant watch on the oven
temperature and doing whatever is needed to
maintain the heat at 140°F.
Scorching. Each vegetable has its own critical
temperature beyond which a scorched taste will
develop. Although there's not much danger of
scorching at the start of the drying process, vegetables
can scorch easily during the last couple of hours.
Even slight scorching will ruin the flavor and affect the
nutritive value of dried foods, so be extravigilant
about maintaining the proper temperature toward the
end of the drying process.
Ventilation. When vegetables are drying, the
moisture they contain escapes by evaporating into the
surrounding air. If the air around the food is
trapped, it will quickly reach a saturation point.
Trapped, saturated air won't be able to hold any
additional moisture — and drying won't take place.
For this reason, ventilation in and around your oven
is as important as keeping the temperature constant.
Electric dryers or dehydrators automatically
provide proper ventilation. With oven drying or when
using a homemade box dryer, you'll need to leave
the oven door slightly ajar — and possibly use an
electric fan to insure good air circulation.
In addition, the cookie sheets or trays you use for
drying should be at least one to two inches smaller all
around than the inside of your oven so air can
circulate around the front, sides, and back of the trays.
There should also be at least three inches of air
space at the top of the oven.
Testing for doneness
In most forms of food preserving, processing times
are exact. You know just how long it takes before the
food is done. However, the times for drying vary
considerably — from four hours to more than
12 — depending on the kind of vegetable, how
thinly it's sliced, how much food is on each tray, and
how much is being dried in the oven or dryer at one
time. The recipes that follow give you the drying
time range for each vegetable, but the only way you
can be sure the food is sufficiently dry is to test
sample pieces.
When you think the vegetables are dry, remove a
few pieces from the tray, then return the tray to the
oven. Let the sample pieces cool before testing —
even food that's perfectly dry will feel soft and
moist while still warm. When the pieces are cool,
follow the test for doneness given for the vegetable
in each recipe. A rule of thumb is that properly dried
vegetables are hard and brittle to the touch.
Exceptions to the rule are mushrooms, sweet
peppers, and squash, which will feel pliable and
leathery when dry. Some food experts recommend
the hammer test: if sufficiently dry, the vegetable
pieces will shatter when struck with a hammer.
Conditioning
Foods don't always dry evenly, nor does each piece
or slice dry at exactly the same rate as all the others. To
be sure all the food in a single batch is evenly dried,
you'll have to condition it. Put the cooled, dried
vegetables into a large, deep crock, dishpan, jar, or
coffee can; then store it in a warm, dry room for a
week to 10 days. Cover the jar or can lightly with
cheesecloth to keep out insects, and stir the dried
pieces at least once a day so that the moisture from
any underdried pieces will be absorbed by the
overdried pieces.
After conditioning, give the vegetables one final
treatment to get rid of any insects or insect eggs. Either
put the dried vegetables in the freezer for a few
hours, or heat them on a cookie sheet in a closed oven
at 175°F for 15 minutes. Be sure to let the food cool
completely again before packaging.
HOW TO STORE DRIED VEGETABLES
Keeping out air and moisture is the secret to good
dried foods. To maintain the quality and safety of your
dried vegetables, you'll need to take special care
when packaging and storing them.
Even when you're using an oven or an electric
dehydrator, you'll have to watch out for the effects of
humidity on drying foods. Choose a bright, sunny
day for your home drying—that way you'll keep the
dried vegetables from picking up moisture from the
surrounding air after they leave the oven or dryer.
Packaging
Dried foods are vulnerable to contamination by
insects as soon as they're removed from the oven or
electric dryer. To protect them, you must package
dried vegetables in airtight, moisture/vaporproof
containers just as soon as they're completely dry.
Canning jars that have been rinsed out with boiling
water and dried, of course, make good containers,
as do coffee cans and plastic freezer bags. When using
a coffee can, first wrap the vegetable pieces in a
plastic bag to keep the metal of the can from affecting
the flavor of the food.
Pint-size containers or small plastic bags are best
for packaging dried vegetables. Try to pack the food
tightly but without crushing it. If you're using
plastic bags, force out as much air as possible before
closing them. By using small bags, several may be
packed into a larger jar or coffee can — that way you
can use small portions as needed, without exposing
the whole container to possible contamination each
time it's opened.
Storing foods safely
Store your packaged, dried vegetables in a cool,
dark, dry place. The cooler the temperature of the
storage area, the longer foods will retain their high
quality. However, dried foods can't be stored
indefinitely, since they do lose vitamins, flavor,
color, and aroma during storage. Your pantry or
kitchen cupboards may provide good storage, if the
area remains cool. A dry basement can also be a good
spot. Dried vegetables can be stored in the freezer,
too — but why take up valuable freezer space with
foods that will keep at cool, room temperature?
Many dried vegetables will keep up to 12 months.
If properly stored. Carrots, onions, and cabbage will
spoil more quickly, so use them up within six
months.
To be on the safe side, check the packages of
dried vegetables from time to time. If you find mold,
the food is no longer safe and should be discarded
immediately. If you find a little moisture, but no
spoilage, heat the dried vegetables for 15 minutes
in a 175°F oven; then cool and repackage. If you find
much moisture, the vegetables must be put
through the entire drying process again. Remember,
you must always cool dried foods thoroughly
before packaging; if packaged while still warm, they'll
sweat and may mold.
HOW TO USE DRIED VEGETABLES
To use dried vegetables, you have to reverse the
drying or dehydration process to rehydrate them. This
is accomplished in water or other liquid. If you soak
dried vegetables before using them, they'll cook
much faster. To rehydrate, add two cups of water for
each cup of dried vegetables; boiling water will
shorten the soaking time. After soaking, the
vegetables should regain nearly the same size as when
fresh.
Rehydrated vegetables are best used in soups,
stews, salads, casseroles, and other combination
dishes. See the recipes that follow for some serving
suggestions.
BASIC DRYING STEPS
The recipes that follow give you specific directions
for drying each vegetable. To prevent problems, keep
these basic steps in mind when home drying foods.
Remember that only the highest quality vegetables are
suitable for drying.
1.Select vegetables that are freshly picked,
tender, and just mature enough to eat.
2.Set out all ingredients and equipment. Wash
and dry all utensils, counter tops, working
surfaces, and your hands.
3.Preheat your conventional oven to 140°F, or
follow the manufacturer's directions for your
electric dryer or dehydrator, or a convection
or microwave oven.
4.Wash the vegetables thoroughly, scrubbing
with a brush if necessary, but handling them
gently to avoid bruising.
5.Cut, slice, or grate the food according to the
recipe directions.
6.Blanch the vegetables in small amounts at a
time, according to recipe directions. For steam
blanching, fill the blancher with just enough
water to cover the bottom, but not to touch the
basket or rack. For blanching by boiling, fill
the blancher about half full, then begin
heating. After blanching, chill the vegetable
pieces in ice water for the same amount of time
the recipe gives for blanching in boiling water.
7.Drain the chilled vegetables well, blot them
dry, then spread them in a single, even layer on
cookie sheets or on the racks of an electric
dryer. Don't crowd the vegetables on the sheet
and don't prepare more vegetables than you
can dry at one time.
8.For conventional oven drying, put an oven
thermometer toward the back of the tray. Put the
tray on the top shelf in a preheated oven, and
maintain an oven temperature of 140°F.
9.For box drying, turn on the light bulb for 10 to
15 minutes to preheat the box. Place the tray on
top of the box.
10.For convection oven drying, place the racks
full of food into a cold oven. Set the temperature
at 150°F. Open the oven door 1 to VA inches.
Set the oven timer to the "stay on" position, or
for as long as it will run, resetting as needed.
11. For drying in an electric dryer or dehydrator.
or a microwave or convection oven, follow the
manufacturer's directions.
12.For both oven and box drying, check the trays
often, and stir the vegetables on the trays,
moving the outside pieces to the center. For
oven drying, turn the tray from front to back
and — if drying more than 1 tray —
change the trays from shelf to shelf for even
drying. Check the trays more frequently during
the last few hours of drying to prevent '
scorching. For microwave oven drying, follow
the manufacturer's directions. Use the lower
end of drying times given in the recipes as a
guide for doneness when you're using a
conventional, microwave, or convection oven.
The upper range of drying times is a guide to
doneness when you're using an electric dryer or
dehydrator.
13.To test for doneness, remove sample pieces,
cool, and then follow the recipe directions for
testing for doneness. When the vegetables
are completely dry, as described in each recipe,
remove them from the oven or box and let
stand until cooled. Test the vegetables again
after cooling. If the food still shows some
moisture, return it to the oven or dryer until
completely dried.
14.Turn the dried vegetables into a deep
container, cover lightly with cheesecloth, and
condition, stirring once a day for a week to 10
days.
15.Pack into vapor/moistureproof, airtight
containers or double plastic bags and store in a
cool, dark, dry place for up to 12 months.
16.To rehydrate, put the vegetables in a pan or
bowl, and add just enough boiling water to
cover — usually 2 cups of water per cup of
dried vegetables, anywhere from 1/2 hour to
several hours, depending on the vegetable.
17.Cook vegetables in their soaking water until
tender, or drain and add to recipes just as you
would fresh vegetables.
Sprouting is one of the easiest ways to grow
fresh vegetables for eatings both in and out of
season. While mung bean sprouts have long been
familiar in Chinese cooking, alfalfa and other sprouts
have become equally well-known in recent years.
More and more ingenious and health-conscious
cooks are adding a variety of sprouts to salads,
sandwiches, soups, and other dishes — for both the
crunch and the nutrition. Sprouts are bursting with
nutrients, and certain vitamins even increase when
seeds are sprouted — up to 600 percent.
And sprouts are economical, too — from a single
pound of seeds, you can produce from six to eight
pounds of sprouts. All you have to do is add a little
moisture and a little warmth to the seeds, set them in a
dark place, then sit back and watch your garden
grow in just a few day's time.
It's fun to have several jars of sprouts going at
once, so you'll always have variety as well as a good
supply. For example, put a couple of tablespoons of
alfalfa seeds in one jar, a cup of wheat or rye berries in
another, and a half cup or so of lentils in a third jar.
Alfalfa takes about five days to reach just the right
stage for eating, but your wheat sprouts will be
ready by the end of the second day. It's a fast, easy,
and very rewarding way to enjoy vegetables — both
the ones you grow yourself and the ones you don't.
BASIC SPROUTING EQUIPMENT
All you need to sprout seeds is a jar, some
cheesecloth, plastic mesh, or plastic screen to cover
the jar, and a rubber band to hold it in place. But
you can also sprout seeds on a tray, on damp towels, in
a clay flowerpot saucer, or in a thin layer of soil. You
may also want to try the ready-made sprouters that are
available in large department stores and health
food stores. For example, you can buy mesh trays or
sprouting lids made of plastic mesh that fit on
standard one-quart canning jars. It's a good idea to try
various methods to find ones that are most
convenient and work best for you.
BASIC INGREDIENTS
You can sprout all kinds of seeds, legumes, and
grains. Try wheat, rye, alfalfa, mung beans, chick peas,
soybeans, pumpkin seeds, sesame seeds, or any of
the other sprouting seeds, grains, and vegetables
suggested in "Directions for Sprouting," later in
this chapter. Only one thing is essential — when
buying seeds for sprouting, always check to be sure
you're getting live, untreated seed. Seeds that are
intended to grow crops are specially treated to
make them resistant to insects and plant
diseases — and you shouldn't eat sprouts started
from these chemically treated seeds.
You also can't sprout seeds that have been heat-
treated, because even relatively low temperatures kill
the seeds, leaving them edible but no longer
capable of growth. For this reason, if you're growing
beans, peas, or other vegetables for sprouting, be
sure to use the drying method recommended for this
purpose. Seeds dried by blanching, chilling, and
heating will not sprout.
The only other ingredient you'll need for
sprouting is water. Some experts recommend that you
let city water (which may be high in chlorine) sit for
a day or two before you use it, in order to let the
chlorine dissipate into the air. When sprouting
seeds, use lukewarm or room-temperature water,
rather than cold or hot.
BASIC SPROUTING TECHNIQUES
Sprouting can be done in a jar, in a tray, on a towel,
in a clay saucer, or in a thin layer of soil. Each method
works best for certain kinds of seeds, as you'll see
from the following descriptions.
Although the basic steps are quite similar from
one method to the next, the times and temperatures
for sprouting will vary due to temperature and
humidity variations in your home. That means you've
got to check sprouts frequently. After your first
couple of batches, you'll have a good idea how long it
takes to produce the flavor you prefer in sprouts.
Many sprouters also like to save the water drained
from sprouts for use in soups or sauces, or for
watering houseplants.
Jar sprouting
This method works best for small seeds, such as
alfalfa, clover or radish.
1.Rinse the seeds in lukewarm water.
2.Put the seeds in a jar, then add 3 times as
much water as you have sprouts. Cover with a
plastic mesh lid, cheesecloth, or nylon net,
then fasten with a rubber band or canning jar-
screw band. (You won't need to remove the
mesh covering until the sprouts are ready to
harvest.) Set aside and soak for the time
given in the recipe.
3.At the end of the soaking time, drain off the
water (through the mesh covering).
4.Rinse the seeds with lukewarm water and
drain.
5.Set the jar in a warm (60°F), dark place, at an
angle so that the sprouts can drain.
6.Rinse and drain the sprouts twice a day, or as
the recipe directs. (In hot, dry weather, rinse
them 3 to 4 times a day.) Turn the jar gently as
you rinse and drain so that the sprouts won't
break off. If the weather or your kitchen is
very humid, move the sprouts to a dry place,
such as near the stove or wrapped in a towel
(to keep out light) near a sunny window. Too
much humidity will prevent sprouting.
Temperatures above 80°F can also prevent
sprouting.
7.On about the fourth day, move the jar of
sprouts into the sunlight so that chlorophyll can
develop and turn the leaves green. Continue
to rinse and drain.
8.Move the sprouts from the jar to a strainer,
and rinse well to remove the hulls, if desired.
Hulls can shorten storage life of sprouts, but
they also add flavor.
9.Use sprouts immediately in salads,
sandwiches, or as the recipe suggests. To store,
put in plastic bags and refrigerate.
10.Wash and dry all equipment and put away for
next use.
Tray sprouting
This method works best for seeds such as mung
bean, chia, and lettuce.
1.Rinse the seeds in lukewarm water.
2.Put the seeds in a jar, then add 3 times as
much water as you have sprouts. Cover with a
plastic mesh lid, cheesecloth or nylon net,
then fasten with a rubber band or canning jar
screw band. Set aside and soak for the time
given in the recipe.
3.At the end of the soaking time, rinse the
seeds and spread in a tray. (The tray can be a
wooden box with a plastic, nylon, or wire
mesh bottom, or a perforated plastic tray.)
4.Cover the tray with plastic wrap and then
with newspaper or another light-blocking
cover. Keep one end of the tray bottom
propped up so the sprouts can drain. Set the
tray in warm (70°F), dark place.
5.Rinse and drain sprouts twice a day. (In hot,
dry weather, rinse them 3 or 4 times a day.)
Rinse gently (so the sprouts won't break)
under a faucet (not full-force), the sprinkler
attachment of your sink, or by lowering the
tray slightly into a sink of lukewarm water.
Cover the tray again after each rinsing.
6.On about the fourth day, move the tray of
sprouts into sunlight so chlorophyll can
develop and turn the leaves green. Continue
to rinse and drain.
7.Move the sprouts from the tray to a strainer,
and rinse well to remove the hulls, if desired.
Hulls can shorten storage life of sprouts, but
they also add flavor.
8.Use sprouts immediately in salads,
sandwiches, or as the recipe suggests. To store,
put in plastic bags and refrigerate.
9.Wash and dry all equipment and put away for
next use.
Towel sprouting
This method works best for larger grains and seeds.
1.Soak the seeds in a jar in 3 times as much
water as you have seeds for time given in
recipe, then rinse and arrange on a damp
towel.
2.Cover with another damp towel, and wrap in
plastic wrap or place inside a plastic bag.
3.Set the bag of towels aside, in a warm (70'* F),
dark place.
4.Dampen the towels daily by misting them
with water.
5.If the seeds haven't sprouted after 2 days,
change the towels to prevent spoilage.
6.On about the fourth day, remove the top
towel and move the sprouts into the sunlight so
that chlorophyll can develop and turn the
leaves green. Mist as needed.
7.Move the sprouts from the towel to a
strainer, and rinse well to remove the hulls, if
desired. Hulls can shorten the storage life of
sprouts, but they also add flavor.
8.Use sprouts immediately in salads,
sandwiches, or as the recipe suggests. To store,
put in plastic bags and refrigerate.
9.Wash and dry all equipment and put away for
next use.
Clay saucer sprouting
This method works best for gelatinous seeds that
are difficult to rinse in jars.
1.Use a clean, unglazed clay flowerpot saucer.
2.Put equal amounts of seeds and water into
the saucer.
3. Set the saucer in a larger pan and pour water
into the pan to within 1/2 inch of top of saucer.
4. Cover with a plate and set aside in warm
(70°F), dark place.
5.Check the seeds daily, misting them if they
become dry, or removing the plate cover for a
day if they're too wet.
6.On about the fourth day, move the sprouts
into the sunlight so the leaves turn green.
Mist as needed.
7.Move the sprouts from the saucer to a
strainer, and rinse well to remove the hulls, if
desired. Hulls can shorten storage life of
sprouts, but they also add flavor.
8. Use sprouts immediately in salads,
sandwiches, or as the recipe suggests. To store,
put in plastic bags and refrigerate.
9. Wash and dry all equipment and put away for
next use.
Soil sprouting
This method works best for sprouting tiny greens
for salads or for wheat, rye, or triticale grasses.
1.Spread a 1-inch layer of equal parts of moist
peat moss and top soiI over the bottom of a box.
2.Soak the seeds in 3 times as much water as
you have seeds and soak for the time given in
the recipe; rinse and jar sprout for 16 to 24
hours.
3.Spread the seeds over the soil in the box.
4.Cover with plastic wrap and then newspaper
or black plastic (to keep out light).
5.When the sprouts are \ inch tall, remove the
cover and move them into sunlight so that
chlorophyll can develop and turn the leaves
green. Water as needed.
6.When greens are the desired height — about
2 to 3 inches — pull or cut them, wash them
well, and use them in salads. To store, put in
plastic bag and refrigerate.
7. Wash and dry all equipment and put away for
next use.

DIRECTIONS FOR SPROUTING VEGETABLES
Try sprouting just about any seed, grain, or legume
for some of the most delicious, nutritious, and
economical foods to be found anywhere. Sprouts
can be added to many dishes besides salads, soups,
and sandwiches. They're delicious baked into
whole-grain breads or muffins, blended into juices, or
added to granola or yogurt. You can sprinkle them
on casseroles and on meat, fish, or fowl dishes of all ^
kinds. You can even top sprouts with tomato sauce
and eat them like spaghetti.
The instructions below will give you some idea of
the yield you can expect from sprouting various seeds
and grains, but yields can vary considerably,
depending on the size of the seeds, the temperature,
and the length of the sprouts when you harvest
them. Generally, small seeds—like chia — yield about
eight times their original bulk in sprouts; large
seeds — like corn — yield about three times their
original bulk. Experiment with these wonder
foods — you'll create some family favorites of your
own.
Aduki (azuki) or pichi beans
Use about 1/2 cup seeds in a 1-quart jar, which will
yield about2 cups of sprouts. Soak for 12 hours. Rinse
3 to 4 times daily for 3 to 4 days. Harvest when the
sprouts are 1/2 to 11/2 inches long. Good in salads or
casseroles, or stir-fried.
Alfalfa
Use about 21/2 tablespoons seeds in a quart jar, or
sprout on trays. This will yield about 1 quart of sprouts.
The yield will be 11/2 cups for each 1/4 cup sprouted,
and the sprouts will be very short — only about 1/8 inch
long. Soak for 8 hours. Rinse 2 to 3 times daily for 4
to 6 days. Move into sunlight to green, then harvest
when the sprouts are 11/2 to 2 inches long. Use in
salads, sandwiches, omelets, or as garnish. To use in
baked goods, harvest sprouts after just 2 days.
Barley
Use 1 to 11/2cups seeds in a 1-quart jar, which will
yield about 1 quart of sprouts. Soak for 12 hours. Rinse
2 to 3 times daily for 2 to 3 days. The sprouts will be
the length of the seed. Use in salads, casseroles, and
breads.
Beans, dry
Use 3/4 cup mature beans in a 1-quart jar, which will
yield about 1 quart of sprouts. Soak for 14 hours. Rinse
3 or 4 times daily for 3 or 4 days. Harvest when
sprouts are 1 to 11/2 inches long. Use in casseroles,
soups, or dips, or steam them.
Beans, mung
Use 1/3 cup in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which will
yield abouti cup of sprouts. Soak for16 hours. Rinse 3
to 4 times daily for 3 to 5 days. Harvest when the
sprouts are 1 to 3 inches long. Use in oriental dishes,
salads, sandwiches, omelets, or stir-fry.
Cabbage
Use 3 tablespoons seeds in a 1-quart jar, which will
yield about 1 quart of sprouts. Soak for 10 hours. Rinse
2 to 3 times daily for 3 to 5 days. Move into sunlight
to green, then harvest when the sprouts are 1 to 11/2
inches long. Use in salads and sandwiches.
Chia
Use 1/4, cup seeds in a clay saucer or tray, which will
yield about 2 cups of sprouts. There's no need to soak
or rinse and drain; just mist the seeds regularly to
keep them moist. After 3 to 5 days, move into sunlight
to green. Harvest when the sprouts are 1 to 11/2
inches long. Use in salads, sandwiches, casseroles,
and as a garnish.
Chick peas
Use 1 cup in a jar, or tray sprout, which will yield
about3 cups of sprouts. Soak for 14 hours. Rinse 3 to 4
times daily for 3 to 4 days. Harvest when sprouts are
1/2 inch long. Use in casseroles, soups, salads,
steamed, or as a base for dips.
Chinese cabbage
Use 1 tablespoon seeds in a 1-quart jar, or tray
sprout, which will yield about 2 cups of sprouts. Soak
for 8 hours. Rinse 2 to 3 times daily for 4 to 5 days.
Move into sunlight to green, then harvest when the
sprouts are 1 to 11/2 inches long. Use in salads,
sandwiches, and juices.
Corn
Use 1 cup kernels in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout,
which will yield about 3 cups of sprouts. Soak for 20
hours. Rinse 3 times daily for 2 to 4 days. Harvest
when the sprouts are 1/2 inch long. Use in casseroles,
soups, and tortillas, or bake, steam, or stir-fry.
Clover
Use 1 tablespoon seeds in a 1-quart jar, or tray
sprout, which will yield about 2 cups of sprouts. Soak
for 8 hours. Rinse 2 to 3 times daily for 4 to 6 days.
Move the jar into sunlight to green, then harvest the
sprouts when they're 11/2 to 2 inches long. Use in
salads, sandwiches, and juices. To use in baked
goods, harvest the sprouts after just 2 days.
Cress
Use 1 tablespoon of seeds in a clay saucer or tray,
which will yield about 11/2 cups of sprouts. There's no
need to soak or rinse and drain; just mist with water
3 times daily for 3 to 5 days. Move into sunlight to
green, then harvest when the sprouts are 1 to 11/2
inches long. Use as a spice (very peppery flavor), in
salads, sandwiches, or baked goods.
Dili
Use 1/4 cup in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which will
yield about2cupsofsprouts. Soak for 8 hours. Rinse 3
times daily for 3 to 5 days. Move Into sunlight to
green, then harvest when the sprouts are 1 to 11/2
inches long. Use in salads, sandwiches,
and juices.
Fenugreek
Use 1/4 cup In a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which will
yield about 1 quart of sprouts. Soak for 10 hours. Rinse
2 to 3 times dally for 3 to 5 days. Mist with water if
tray sprouting, to keep damp. Harvest when 1/2 to 2
Inches long. Use in salads and sandwiches.
Flax
Use 1/4 cup in a clay saucer, or tray sprout, which will
yield about 1 cup of sprouts. Without soaking or
rinsing the seeds, mist with water 3 times daily for 3
to 5 days. Move into sunlight to green, then harvest
when the sprouts are 1 to 11/2 inches long. Use in
salads or juices.
Lentils
Use 3/4 cup in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which will
yield about 6 cups of sprouts. Soak for 8 to 10 hours.
Rinse 2 to 3 times daily for 2 to 3 days. Harvest when
the sprouts are 1/4 to 1/2 inch long. Use in salads,
sauces, dips, juices, soups, or casseroles.
Lettuce
Use 3 tablespoons in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout,
which will yield about 2 cups of sprouts. Soak for 8
hours. Rinse 2 to 3 times daily for 4 to 5 days. Move
into sunlight to green. Harvest when the sprouts are 1
to 11/2 inches long. Use as a garnish (flavor is
strong).
Millet
Use 11/2 cups in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which
will yield about 2 cups of sprouts. Soak seeds for 8
hours. Rinse 3 times daily for 4 to 5 days. Harvest
when sprouts are 1/4 inch long. Use in salads, soups,
baked goods, casseroles, and juices.
Mustard
Use 3 tablespoons in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout,
which will yield about 1 quart of sprouts. Do not soak.
Rinse 2 to 3 times daily for 4 to 5 days. Move Into
sunlight to green, then harvest when the sprouts are 1
to 11/2 inches long. Use in salads, juices, or as
garnish.
Oats
Use 11/2 cups in a 1-quart jar or sprout on towels,
which will yield about 2 to 3 cups of sprouts. Soak for 1
hour. Rinse once or twice daily for 3 days. The
sprouts will be the length of the seed. Use in salads,
granola, and baked goods.
Peas
Use 1/2 cup black-eyed or shelling in a 1-quart jar, or
tray sprout, which will yield about 1 cup of sprouts.
Soak for 12 hours. Rinse 2 to 3 times daily for 3 days.
Harvest when sprouts are 1/4 to 1/2 inch long. Use in
salads, soups, omelets, and casseroles.
Peanuts
Use 11/2 cups in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which
will yield about 1 quart of sprouts. Soak for 14 hours.
Rinse 2 to 3 times daily for 3 to 4 days. Harvest when
sprouts are 1/4 to 1 inch long. Use In soups, steam, or
stir-fry.
Pumpkin
Use 11/2 cups in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which
will yield about 3 cups of sprouts. Soak for 10 hours.
Rinse twice daily for 2 to 3 days. Harvest when the
sprouts are 1 to 11/2 Inches long; pick off hulls and
rinse. Use in sauces, dips, and baked goods.
Radish
Use 3 tablespoons in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout,
which will yield about 1 quart of sprouts. Soak for 8
hours. Rinse 2 to 3 times daily for 4 to 5 days. Move
into sunlight to green, then harvest when the sprouts
are 1 to 2 inches long. Use in salads, sandwiches,
and juices.
Rye
Use 1 cup in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which will
yield about 2 to 3 cups of sprouts. Soak for 12 hours.
Rinse twice daily for 2 to 3 days. Sprouts will be the
length of the seeds. Use in granola, salads, baked
goods.
Sesame
Use 1 cup in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which will
yield about 2 cups of sprouts. Soak for 8 to 10 hours.
Rinse 3 to 4 times daily for 3 days. The sprouts will be
the length of the seed. Use in granola, baked goods.
Soybeans
Use % cup in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout,.which will
yield about 1 quart of sprouts. Soak for 12 to 24 hours,
changing the soaking water once. Rinse 3 to 4 times
daily for 3 to 4 days. Harvest when sprouts are 1/2 to 2
inches long. Use in oriental dishes, salads,
casseroles, baked goods, or steam.
Squash
Use 1 cup in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout, which will
yield about 3 cups of sprouts. Soak for 10 hours. Rinse
twice dally for 2 or 3 days. Harvest when the sprouts
are 1 to 11/2 inches long; pick off hulls and rinse. Use in
sauces, dips, and baked goods.
Sunflower^ hulled
Use 1 cup in a 1-quart jar, which will yield about 3
cups of sprouts. Soak for 10 hours. Rinse 2 to 3 times
daily for 2 to 5 days. Harvest when the sprouts are 1
to 11/2 inches long. Use In salads, sauces, and
dips.
Triticale
Use 1 cup in a 1-quart jar, which will yield about 2 to
3 cups of sprouts. Soak for 12 hours. Rinse twice daily
for 2 to 3 days. The sprouts will be the length of the
seed. Use in granola, salads, soups, and baked
goods.
Turnip
Use 3 tablespoons in a 1-quart jar, which will yield
about 1 quart of sprouts. Soak for 12 hours. Rinse
twice daily for 3 to 4 days. Move into sunlight to
green, then harvest when the sprouts are 1 to 11/2
inches long. Use in salads and sandwiches.
Wheat
Use 1 cup in a 1-quart jar, or tray sprout; which will
yield about 4 cups of sprouts. Soak for 12 hours. Rinse
twice daily for 2 to 3 days. The sprouts will be the
length of the seed. Use in granola, salads, soups,
baked goods.
Herbs are the secret ingredient in many a fine
recipe — from the most delicate gourmet dish to
the heartiest of folk fare. Yet herbs are also among
the easiest vegetables to grow, to use fresh, or to store
for the winter. If you live in a mild climate, you can
grow herbs year-round in your garden, in window
pots, along walkways, or near doorways or patios.
And if you live where winters get too cold for outdoor
gardening, you can grow little pots of basil or chives
indoors, and freeze, dry, or salt the rest of your herb
crop. Dried herbs will keep for up to a year;
frozen herbs will keep fresh for several months if
properly wrapped and stored.
Herbs are popular in cooking not only for the way
they enhance the flavor of many foods, but for the fact
that they add no calories. If you're on a special diet,
herbs can add zest to those low-cal or no-salt recipes.
For example, when cooking potatoes or rice, add a
pinch of rosemary instead of salt to the cooking water
to add a special flavor.
GROWING HERBS: ROBUST AND FINE
Some herbs are used only in food preparation
(robust herbs); and others can be eaten raw as well
(fine herbs). Among the most popular herbs are
basil, chives, dill, garlic, marjoram, oregano, parsley,
rosemary, sage, sweet marjoram, and thyme.
Grow them where you can enjoy their beauty and
fragrance, as well as harvest the leaves at just the
peak moment for use in your favorite foods. Detailed
information on growing these and other herbs is
given in Parts 1 and 2.
USING FRESH HERBS
You can use fresh herbs throughout the growing
season. First, gently remove a few leaves at a time, or
pinch or cut off sprigs to be chopped and added to
your soups, salads, and sauces. For immediate use,
rinse the herbs, pat them dry, and then chop finely.
If you can't use fresh herbs at once, wrap them in a
damp paper towel, then in plastic wrap or a plastic
bag, and refrigerate. Fresh herbs can be kept
refrigerated for a few hours or up to a day or two —
but no longer than that.
Fresh herbs are wonderful in any recipe that calls
for herbs. However, if your recipe specifies a dried
herb, you can substitute fresh by using three to four
times more finely chopped fresh leaves — one
teaspoon of fresh herbs is equal to 1/4 teaspoon of
dried. Fresh herbs also make beautiful garnishes. Save
a perfect sprig to give the finishing touch to
vegetables, salads, drinks, fish, meats, casseroles, and
sandwiches.
HARVESTING HERBS FOR STORAGE
Herbs can be frozen, dried, or salted for use during
the fall, winter, and spring. Depending on the method
you'll be using, you can cut whole stalks, remove
just the leaves, or pinch off sprigs for your herbs. The
dried seeds of some herbs — anise, caraway,
coriander, dill, fennel, and sesame — are also used for
flavorings, but most herbs are grown for their
leaves.
You should harvest herbs to be stored when the
flowers of the plant are just beginning to open; this is
the moment when flavor is at its peak. Cut the
plants on a dry, sunny morning—after the dew has
dried, but before the sun gets too hot. The leaves
you want are the young, tender, pungent ones
growing at the top six inches of the plant. Strip off
the tough, lower leaves and remove the flower
clusters. Rinse the herbs with cold water to remove
dirt and dust, then blot them dry with paper towels.
If you're growing herbs for their seeds, harvest
the seeds as soon as the heads turn brown, but before
they ripen completely and begin to fall off. Harvest
the seeds on a warm, dry day, and then dry them, as
detailed below. Seeds are dried in their pods,
husks, or coverings. You remove these coverings by
winnowing — rubbing a few seeds at a time
between your palms to loosen the pod or husk, which
will then fall away. Herb seeds should not be frozen
or salted.
HOW TO FREEZE HERBS
Freezing is a quick way to preserve herbs that will be ,
used in cooked dishes. Since herbs become dark and
limp during freezing, they can't be used as
garnishes — but their flavor remains just as good as
fresh. You can chop herbs before freezing, or
freeze sprigs and then just snip them, right from the
freezer, into the food you're cooking.
Frozen herbs will keep for several months. If you
want to store herbs for longer periods, dry them
instead.
To freeze herbs, follow these step-by-step
procedures:
1.Have ready a knife or scissors, paper towels,
plastic bags, freezer wrap or boilable pouches,
cardboard, freezer container or envelope,
and labels.
2.Pick fresh, perfect herb sprigs or leaves.
Wash them well, then drain and pat them dry
with paper towels.
3.Pack recipe-size amounts in small plastic
bags or packets made from plastic wrap, freezer
paper or foil, or pack in boilable pouches.
Seal well.
4.Staple these individual packets to a piece of
cardboard, label the cardboard, and then
freeze. Or pack several packets in a freezer
container, large envelope, or plastic bag. Seal,
label, and freeze.
5.For bouquet garni: Tie together several
sprigs of different herbs — parsley, bay leaf,
and thyme, for example — and pack as
above. When you're ready to use it, add the
whole bouquet to the recipe.
HOW TO DRY HERBS
Herbs need no pretreatment before drying, just
careful selection and gentle harvesting. Always
choose the tender, aromatic leaves growing on the
upper six inches of the plant. Herbs may be air-dried in
paper bags or dried in your kitchen oven. Herbs
should never be dried in the sun because direct
sunlight destroys their natural aroma.
For perfect dried herbs, follow these step-bystep
procedures:
1.Have ready paper towels, a knife or scissors,
string, plastic wrap, cookie sheets, racks or
trays and wire mesh or cloth, or brown paper
bags.
2.For herb leaves, choose herbs that are just
about to blossom. Make sure the herbs are
tender and well-colored, with perfect leaves
and no bugs. Cut off the top two-thirds of the
plant. Pick early in the morning, if possible.
For herb seeds, choose seeds that are fully
developed and mature.
3.Wash off any dust or dirt from the leaves.
Shake them gently and pat dry with paper
towels.
4.Dry in bags; on trays; or in a conventional,
microwave, or convection oven, as explained
below.
Bag drying herbs
1.Gather 6 to 8 stalks and put them in a
large brown paper bag to prevent their
exposure to light. Hold the ends of the stalks
at the top opening of the bag, then tie the bag's
top around the stalks with a string. The
leaves mustn't touch the sides of the bag, or
they may stick to the paper and dry
incompletely. Repeat for desired quantity of
herbs.
2.Punch a few holes in the bottom and sides of
each bag for ventilation, and label each bag.
3.Hang the bags by the string from hooks or
hangers in an attic, covered porch, or any other
warm, dry, well-ventilated spot away from
direct sun.
4.Check the temperature of the area before
and during drying to be sure it doesn't rise
above 100°F. Herbs will lose their flavorful
oils if air-dried at temperatures above 100°F.
5.If you're drying herbs outdoors, be sure to
bring them in at night, so they don't pick up
moisture from the night air,
6.You'll know the herbs are completely dry
when the leaves fall from the stalks and can
easily be crumbled between your fingers.
You can strip the leaves from the stalks to crush
or bottle whole, or just leave them in the
paper bags until you're ready to use them.
7.If the leaves haven't dried evenly, strip them
from the stalks and spread them in a single,
even layer on a cookie sheet. Dry in a 200°F
oven for 30 minutes, or until crumbly.
8.Store the dried whole leaves in labeled,
airtight containers. In a dark, cool, dry place.
Tray drying herbs
1.Remove the leaves from the stems of the
plant and place them on a cloth-covered rack or
mesh screen.
2.Place the racks in a warm, dry, well-
ventilated room away from direct sun.
3.Stir the leaves from time to time to be sure
they dry evenly.
4.When the leaves crumble easily, they're dry.
5.Store the dried whole leaves in labeled,
airtight containers, in a dark, cool, dry, place.
Drying herbs in a conventional oven
1.Remove the leaves from the stalks of the
plant, and arrange them in a single, even layer
on cookie sheets, racks, or trays. Use drying
trays 11/2 to 2 inches smaller all around than the ,
inside of your oven, so air can circulate freely
around them.
2.Set the trays in the oven, with at least V/2
inches between the layers of drying trays.
3.Dry the leaves in a 120°F oven or In a drying
box until the leaves will crumble easily between
your fingers. Prop the oven door open
slightly for ventilation and to keep the oven
temperature from rising too high. The herbs
will dry in 2 to 4 hours.
4.Store the dried leaves whole in labeled,
airtight containers, in a dark, cool, dry, place.
Drying herbs in a microwave oven
1.Place 3 or 4 stalks between several
thicknesses of paper towels on a drying rack or
cookie sheet.
2.Set the sheet In the oven.
3.Dry at medium power for 2 or 3 minutes, or
until the leaves crumble easily. If the herbs still
aren't dry, return the leaves to the oven at
the same heat for an additional 30 seconds.
4.Store the dried whole leaves in labeled,
airtight containers, in a dark, cool, dry place.
Drying herbs in a convection oven
1.Remove the leaves from the stalks, and
arrange them in a single, even layer on cookie
sheets, racks, or trays.
2.Set the racks in a cold convection oven.
3.Set the oven temperature setting below the
"warm" or 150°F setting. Use an oven
thermometer to be sure the temperature
inside the oven doesn't exceed 100°F.
4.Dry the leaves until they are brittle.
5.Store the whole leaves in labeled, airtight
containers, in a dark, cool, dry place.
HOW TO DRY HERB SEEDS
Herb seeds can be dried by the same method used
to dry leaves. After drying, remove the outer covering
from dried seeds. Just rub a few seeds at a time
between the palms of your hands, and then shake
them gently to let the outer seed covering fall away.
Store seeds in labeled, airtight containers in a dark,
cool, dry place.
STORING DRIED HERBS
As soon as the leaves are dry, store herbs whole in
labeled, airtight containers in a dark, cool, dry place.
Coffee cans lined with a plastic bag or tinted glass
containers are best, since they keep out light. Don't
crush the leaves until you're ready to use them,
because whole herbs hold their flavor the longest.
During the first week after drying, check the herbs
to be sure they're completely dry. If you notice any
moisture at all, dry the leaves a little longer.
You can keep dried herbs up to a year, if they're
stored properly in a dark, cool, dry place. If your
storage area is too warm, the leaves will begin to
lose flavor. If the area is too moist, the herbs may cake,
change color, or spoil. Always remember to close
the containers tightly after each use to prevent the loss
of the volatile oils which are what make herbs so
flavorful.
If you want to verify the freshness of herbs you've
been storing for some time, rub a leaf between your
palms. If the herb is still potent, strong aroma will
be released. If there's little or no fragrance released,
the flavor has faded, and you'll need to put up a
fresh supply.
COOKING WITH DRIED HERBS
When using dried herbs, first crush or chop the
leaves to release the flavor and aroma. Use herbs
singly or combine one particularly strong herb with
several other milder ones. You can also make a
bouquet garni by tying together or placing in a
cheesecloth bag bunches of herbs such as celery
leaves, parsley, onion, and thyme. Or, mix three or
more herbs to make fine herbs. The most familiar
combinations for fine herbs are chervil, chives, and
parsley; and basil, sage, and savory.
You'll get the most from herbs in cooking if you
add them at the right time. For example, when
preparing stews or soups that must cook for several
hours, add herbs during the last half hour of cooking
time. The flavor and aroma of herbs can be lost if
they cook too long. In foods that cook quickly, add the
herbs immediately.
You'll get best results if you add herbs to the
liquid portion of your recipe before mixing it with the
rest of the ingredients. Moistening the herbs first
with a little water, oil, or other suitable liquid and
allowing them to stand for 10 minutes will bring out
the flavor even more.
When substituting dried herbs for fresh in a
recipe, use 1/4 amount specified. One teaspoon
fresh herbs equals 1/4, teaspoon dried.

SALTING HERBS FOR STORAGE
You can salt away some herbs to preserve them for
future use. Use pure granulated or pickling salt, not
iodized table salt. This method is most popular for
basil, but it can be used for other herb leaves too.
To salt herbs down, follow these step-by-step
procedures:
1.Have ready pickling salt, paper towels, and
jars or other containers with tight-fitting lids,
and labels.
2.Choose perfect, fresh basil or other herb
leaves. Wash and drain, then pat them
completely dry with paper towels.
3.Pour a layer of salt into the container and
arrange a layer of leaves on top.
4.Pour in another layer of salt, then add a layer
of leaves. Repeat until the container is full,
ending with a layer of salt. Press down firmly.
5.Cover the container tightly, label, and store
it in a dark, cool, dry place. Use salted herbs just
as you would fresh herbs, but be sure to
rinse thoroughly to remove the salt before
adding them to food.

SPECIAL TREATS WITH HERBS
A little herb goes a long way in cooking, so you'll
want to find other uses for the bounty of your herb
garden. Herb vinegars, herb teas, herb butters, and
herb jellies are easy to make and delicious to use.
Herb vinegars
Adding sprigs of fresh herbs to vinegar provides
wonderful flavor. Pretty bottles of your own herb
vinegars make wonderful gifts, too. You can use
any herb you like, or any combination you prefer.
Tarragon in white wine vinegar, basil and garlic in
red wine vinegar, and mint or savory in white or cider
vinegar are just a few examples.
1.Have ready measuring cups, glass mixing
bowl, saucepan, strainer, jars or bottles, and
labels.
2.Select perfect, fresh herb leaves. (You'll also
want perfect sprigs to go in the bottles, but
don't harvest these until after you've let the
leaves steep in vinegar for a few days.)
3.For each pint of herb vinegar, lightly crush
about y2 cup of fresh herb leaves in large glass
mixing bowl. Add 1 pint white, cider, or wine
vinegar. Cover and set aside for 3 to 5 days.
4.Now gather as many perfect herb sprigs as
you'll have bottles of vinegar. Wash them.
5.Wash the bottles well, rinse, and then
sterilize them by simmering in water to cover
for about 5 minutes.
6.Strain the vinegar and discard the herbs.
Heat the vinegar to boiling.
7.Pour the hot vinegar into hot bottles or jars.
Add a sprig of fresh herb to each bottle or jar.
8.Close the bottles with corks, lids, or other
airtight seals. Label and store in a dark, cool, dry
place.
Herb teas
Fresh herbs have long been favorites for use in
infusions, or teas. You can use almost any dried herb
you like, but you'll have to test and taste to
determine how strong you like it. Mint, rosemary,
marjoram, and thyme are favorites for tea, but why
not experiment with some others, too? Use about one
teaspoon of dried herb (or a combination of herbs)
for each teacup (six ounces) of boiling water. Put the
herbs directly into the teapot and add the boiling
water, or put the herbs in a tea ball. Let steep for five to
10 minutes. Don't add milk or cream. Sweeten, if
desired, with honey or sugar.
Herb butters
Herb-flavored butters make marvelous toppings
for bread, vegetables, meats, and seafoods. Use anise
or oregano butter on your own sweet corn; basil
butter on broiled tomato slices; tarragon butter on
broiled fish filets; garlic and oregano butter on
French bread slices; and marjoram butter on fresh
green peas.
You can chop or crush fresh or dried herb leaves
to cream with softened butter, or mix the leaves and
butter together in a blender or food processor. Use
about two tablespoons dried or 1/2 cup fresh herbs for
each stick 1/2 cup) of butter. Store herb butters
tightly covered in the refrigerator. Use in a few days.